Mother of Berries, M.O.B. Maine Strain

Transplanted what I could to smart pots. Waste of time to keep T5 on? Pic with and without LED. I know a certain closeness is needed but may have some refraction and heat benefits

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Guys over at ask us anything advised to just shut T5 down so on the advice of PennyWise. It's now off and only running LED. Which is fine with me, saves electric costs, decreases humidity and allows me to consider more cooling/air change options
 
WeedMonkey said:
Guys over at ask us anything advised to just shut T5 down so on the advice of PennyWise. It's now off and only running LED. Which is fine with me, saves electric costs, decreases humidity and allows me to consider more cooling/air change options
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Pennywise knows his shit and you could always add another cheap led with ease. Happy growing!
 
MOB yield from CFL. Almost completely dried a day or two max it seems but could change and then off to curing. I thank everyone for their support. Special Thanks to Skybound,DoggieDaddy, Guru02, and TheGreenYeti and the guys over at "Ask Us Anything" I'm hoping the LED will yield more then this and may add another LED after I investigate my electrical situation a bit further.

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I agree with Yeti. Seems your harvest went rather quickly, but I thought I just lost track of time or something. After I hang them for about 72 hours, they definitely feel very crusty on the outsides of the buds, but if I put them inside anything like a bag, box or tote, after just a few hours the buds feel like they never hung dry for 3 days. This is why it's important to extend the dry process beyond what our first impressions lead us to believe. My mentor initially told me to hang for 4-5 days, but I too felt 3 would be better due to how crusty they felt. I didn't lose or ruin my harvest all that much, but I definitely ultimately extended the dry time by not initially drying good enough. If you can't find any paper bags, cardboard boxes also work the same way, they contain the buds in a smaller space, but also have drying properties so to continue the bud sweating process by becoming the target for the most moisture (over and beyond the recently dried bud surfaces) from the source of that remaining moisture (the core of the buds).
 
Skybound said:
I agree with Yeti. Seems your harvest went rather quickly, but I thought I just lost track of time or something. After I hang them for about 72 hours, they definitely feel very crusty on the outsides of the buds, but if I put them inside anything like a bag, box or tote, after just a few hours the buds feel like they never hung dry for 3 days. This is why it's important to extend the dry process beyond what our first impressions lead us to believe. My mentor initially told me to hang for 4-5 days, but I too felt 3 would be better due to how crusty they felt. I didn't lose or ruin my harvest all that much, but I definitely ultimately extended the dry time by not initially drying good enough. If you can't find any paper bags, cardboard boxes also work the same way, they contain the buds in a smaller space, but also have drying properties so to continue the bud sweating process by becoming the target for the most moisture (over and beyond the recently dried bud surfaces) from the source of that remaining moisture (the core of the buds).
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To be honest, my patience got the best of me. There it is, not going to lie. I smoked some popcorn bud and was amazing. I will be seeing curing all the way through. She is still drying and will continue to do so for a few more days, more if needed. Everyone here is so wise and has so much to share, 420 is really a miraculous place to be.

I've grown 3 plants so far with a new batch of 8 plants. I have no issue with growing in soil and like the free micro-nutrients. Im wondering if I should move to Hydro after this or get some more experience under my belt before I do? Any advice would be hugely helpful.
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My 1st was in soil, but it ended up being a male after a few months dicking around in veg. After that I went to hydro, and though it's not as difficult as some make it out to be, it is much more expensive IMO and requires very frequent attention. This is the underlying reason I'm trying to automate everything, because the bit of time I have to visit me grow, I would rather spend that time with the plant and not all the electrical bullshit the comes with it. IMO, soil is a plain jane woman, nothing special. Hydro is a really hot stunner, but she has 5 kids with 6 baby daddies, and we're pretty sure she still sees half of them. Another way is with hydro, you can enjoy your harvests, with soil you can enjoy your life.
 
That's definitely a memorable way to explain the difference. I don't sell but occasionally give weed to a friend who doesn't care if it's spectacular or not, however I'm always interested in doing better. I've popped my initial cherry and no longer feel in a desperate hurry to harvest. I've heard Aeroponics is difficult but also interesting imo. Also reading more about bubbleponics. You had mentioned Hydro to be more expensive. What do you estimate the cost gap between Hydro and soil is for everything?

From what I'm reading Bubbleponics seems to be the way to go

Top-Fed DWC Cannabis Setup Guide - Bubbleponics | Grow Weed Easy
 
WeedMonkey said:
You had mentioned Hydro to be more expensive. What do you estimate the cost gap between Hydro and soil is for everything?
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Right off the bat, you have to consider cost to build your hydro system, including pumps, pipe/tubing, fittings, bubblers (if needed) and chiller(s) (if needed), then there is in many cases the recurring cost of media and nutrients. Media isn't so bad on price because it doesn't weigh much, but it's bulky, and depending on your plant count vs frequency of rotation, you likely need to keep some on hand. Nutes are more or less cheap, but you get killed in shipping them, unless you buy locally, in which case the shipping plus overhead are already included into the price. Most nute lines are broken into 2 or 3 main parts, but you'll of course want to use every supplement or amendment you can to maximize the total potential. As you know, I built an 8 head dosing pump for my lineup, but I quickly found I actually need about 12. That is 12 different bottles I need for my grow, each in a quart size bottle and the cost of each ranges from $13 up to about $18 per quart, and that's before shipping and to my knowledge from the cheapest online vendor inside the lower 48. Not only do I want/need to stay in supply of those 12 different things, I also need to know when to use what and how much. If the leaves begin to shift one way or another, I then must recalibrate the previous concoction to accommodate for what the leaves are telling me (deficiency/toxicity). Granted, growing in hydro, and if done correctly, I can reverse a deficiency or toxicity much easier and quicker than in soil, but for all I have invested from my pocket and my brain into hydro, fast corrections should be expected. It's definitely a double edged sword!
 
Skybound said:
Right off the bat, you have to consider cost to build your hydro system, including pumps, pipe/tubing, fittings, bubblers (if needed) and chiller(s) (if needed), then there is in many cases the recurring cost of media and nutrients. Media isn't so bad on price because it doesn't weigh much, but it's bulky, and depending on your plant count vs frequency of rotation, you likely need to keep some on hand. Nutes are more or less cheap, but you get killed in shipping them, unless you buy locally, in which case the shipping plus overhead are already included into the price. Most nute lines are broken into 2 or 3 main parts, but you'll of course want to use every supplement or amendment you can to maximize the total potential. As you know, I built an 8 head dosing pump for my lineup, but I quickly found I actually need about 12. That is 12 different bottles I need for my grow, each in a quart size bottle and the cost of each ranges from $13 up to about $18 per quart, and that's before shipping and to my knowledge from the cheapest online vendor inside the lower 48. Not only do I want/need to stay in supply of those 12 different things, I also need to know when to use what and how much. If the leaves begin to shift one way or another, I then must recalibrate the previous concoction to accommodate for what the leaves are telling me (deficiency/toxicity). Granted, growing in hydro, and if done correctly, I can reverse a deficiency or toxicity much easier and quicker than in soil, but for all I have invested from my pocket and my brain into hydro, fast corrections should be expected. It's definitely a double edged sword!
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It's definitely a lot to think about, I definitely appreciate the input. I'll have to weight the options and look at a few different places to see and get an average cost of what I'll need to buy and go from there. Hydro is definitely appealing DWC is definitely appealing though. I suppose I could but stuff over the course of these plants life cycle and be good to go on next grow cycle.
 
WeedMonkey said:
It's definitely a lot to think about, I definitely appreciate the input. I'll have to weight the options and look at a few different places to see and get an average cost of what I'll need to buy and go from there. Hydro is definitely appealing DWC is definitely appealing though. I suppose I could but stuff over the course of these plants life cycle and be good to go on next grow cycle.
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I have a rule for DWC because I really want to grow with it, but my rule is that no DWC unless on the ground floor, albeit a basement or other cement slab, preferably with a floor drain because you are 100% definitely going to have leaks. To further add the complexity, you mentioned 1950s wiring which is added problem. When you have a leak, will the salty water then go between floor boards and get to that exposed knob and tube wiring? I'm in the same style/age building as you, and I won't even consider DWC until I find a more suitable building/space for that type of system.
 
You might wanna try coco coir. It's similar to soil but is technically hydro. You still have to take into account all of the things that were previously mentioned since you'll have to feed everyday. I'm working on an automated top feed drop system that has been fairly cheap for my first coco grow. I'll find some pics if you're interested.
 
Doggie Daddy said:
You might wanna try coco coir. It's similar to soil but is technically hydro. You still have to take into account all of the things that were previously mentioned since you'll have to feed everyday. I'm working on an automated top feed drop system that has been fairly cheap for my first coco grow. I'll find some pics if you're interested.
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I'm extremely interested an learning about an automated system. Might even borrow from your ideas. I've heard about coco. I could always go with that for a bit and see how I feel about constant maintenance and decide to go full Hydro from there.
 
This will be my reservoir. An aquarium air pump will be hooked up to an airstone to mix the nutes and this is a pond pump that will bring the water to the plants via some drip line. The pond pump will be on a timer.
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It's about as basic and cheap as I could get.
 
@ DD, you shouldn't use that metal hose clamp as the nutes are very caustic and will corrode and dissolve metals which then will fall back into your res. The only metals that are permitted in a hydro setup is stainless steel, but even that will corrode over time. It's best to stick with plastics and rubbers. Also, pumps are very cheap nowadays. I use 160 GPH which is considered small, and they go for about $10 online.
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It's also nice to make DIY hydro halos from some 1/2" PVC and 45º PVC elbows. No glue needed, just push the parts together firmly. The pumps won't make enough pressure to push them apart.
 
I was thinking the same thing Skybound. That clamp is stainless but maybe I'll try a small zip tie. I'm going to use the drip line with holes and stake the line around the pots. Similar to your pvc but only 1/4" line. It's my first go with this setup so thank you for your advice.
 
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