MGD420 Grow Journal: Jan 2022

you wanna feed at 5.8 and let it drift upward if it's a passive hydro with a small res style of grow. feed every couple days minimum and make sure you completely replace the res each time.

feeding higher then 5.8 is gonna lock you out of some nutes. if it is a nute line that "doesn't require" ph'ing, then adjusting ph won't affect it either and your plants should be equally happy under both circumstance. your eyes will show the proof.


edit : you want the ph stable. crap jumping all over is not good. and you need to monitor the ec and content of your water. what can you tell us about the water ?
 
bottom line is get control of your water, nutes, and ph.

any hydro is a control approach. you are the one providing the environment. in many cases it's simply adapting what you've been given. perfect is not attainable. damn good is.

fact is i know you can do it.
 
oh yeah ... run an h202 flush and see if it helps.

on passive a regular scheduled h202 flush works wonders with AN. or any bottled nute. the best is if you can do it flood and drain style to get a good soaking. you can use less. other wise turn on the taps with a pile, let drain, and watch.

you'll have to reset nutes and refeed 24 - 48 hrs later. it might get stuff fixed on it's own.
 
you wanna feed at 5.8 and let it drift upward if it's a passive hydro with a small res style of grow. feed every couple days minimum and make sure you completely replace the res each time.

feeding higher then 5.8 is gonna lock you out of some nutes. if it is a nute line that "doesn't require" ph'ing, then adjusting ph won't affect it either and your plants should be equally happy under both circumstance. your eyes will show the proof.


edit : you want the ph stable. crap jumping all over is not good. and you need to monitor the ec and content of your water. what can you tell us about the water ?

In other words, don't trust pH perfect and manually change it to 5.8 using pH up/down.

When you say make sure to completely change the reservoir every feed. So no 10 - 20% run off, replace the entire reservoir ? I'm not 100% sure on the amount of water the reservoir holds but know it holds a few litres the drain hole is 3 inches from the base in 25L buckets. In the morning I could probably give a more accurate response as to how much water the res holds.

I can't really tell you much about the water other than I know it's soft water, has a pH of around 7.6 - 7.7
I did post a breakdown reading of the water content a few pages back for FelipeBue but it doesn't show how much calcium or magnesium in the water. As far as I'm aware soft water has a much lower reading of Ca - Mg compared to hard water.
If I try testing the EC of the tap water using the bluelabs truncheon nothing happens.
I have a cheap ec pen somewhere that I think does give readings of the tap waters ec, I could look it out tomorrow and give all the details.
 
bottom line is get control of your water, nutes, and ph.

any hydro is a control approach. you are the one providing the environment. in many cases it's simply adapting what you've been given. perfect is not attainable. damn good is.

fact is i know you can do it.

I hear you. Damn good is all i look for, nice healthy plants and i would be a happy camper, doesn’t need to be perfect.
I appreciate your help Bluter, you helped out a lot on my first and best grow so hopefully you'll stick around to give some more advice as I could do with it.
 
oh yeah ... run an h202 flush and see if it helps.

on passive a regular scheduled h202 flush works wonders with AN. or any bottled nute. the best is if you can do it flood and drain style to get a good soaking. you can use less. other wise turn on the taps with a pile, let drain, and watch.

you'll have to reset nutes and refeed 24 - 48 hrs later. it might get stuff fixed on it's own.

7Dust mentioned doing the same, flushing the plants.
h202 flush, would that be just plain water that has a pH of 5.8 or do I add calmag.

I can always pop the buckets in the bath and flush them tomorrow.

What is flood and drain style ?
Is that what you suggested during my previous grow where I fill the bucket with feed/h202, let it sit for a bit then drain ?

Reset the nutes ?

Thanks again for your time.
 
In other words, don't trust pH perfect and manually change it to 5.8 using pH up/down.


yes



When you say make sure to completely change the reservoir every feed. So no 10 - 20% run off, replace the entire reservoir ?


depends how big the res is. small res 10% is good. big res maybe 100%. you have to get the stagnant water out every 2 days.



I can't really tell you much about the water other than I know it's soft water, has a pH of around 7.6 - 7.7
I did post a breakdown reading of the water content a few pages back for FelipeBue but it doesn't show how much calcium or magnesium in the water. As far as I'm aware soft water has a much lower reading of Ca - Mg compared to hard water.
If I try testing the EC of the tap water using the bluelabs truncheon nothing happens.
I have a cheap ec pen somewhere that I think does give readings of the tap waters ec, I could look it out tomorrow and give all the details.



find out your ppm/ ec. test your own water.
it's going to be mostly calcium and iron in most places. depends on your water supply. generally if you are at 120ppm or lower you can treat it close to RO without the calmag.

things get a bit troublesome above 200 or so. mine is about 200 but with lead content from old pipes. i both run RO and drink it. if your house is over 40rys old you've probably got lead. i would never grow indoor on my water from tap.
 
yes






depends how big the res is. small res 10% is good. big res maybe 100%. you have to get the stagnant water out every 2 days.







find out your ppm/ ec. test your own water.
it's going to be mostly calcium and iron in most places. depends on your water supply. generally if you are at 120ppm or lower you can treat it close to RO without the calmag.

things get a bit troublesome above 200 or so. mine is about 200 but with lead content from old pipes. i both run RO and drink it. if your house is over 40rys old you've probably got lead. i would never grow indoor on my water from tap.

I can check tomorrow but I'm almost sure the res probably holds more than 4 - 5 litres of water given the size of the bucket.

I looked out the ppm/ec pen so i could test the ec.
The ec of the tap water is 108, ppm is 54.

20220221_042828.jpg
20220221_042903.jpg
 
not sure i trust that ec pen but if it's good the water is fine.

4 - 5 litres means you have to monitor ph daily and change it when necessary. i dunno what kind of a system this is but is not hempy. is it auto feed ? sounds kinda frankenjunk
 
not sure i trust that ec pen but if it's good the water is fine.

4 - 5 litres means you have to monitor ph daily and change it when necessary. i dunno what kind of a system this is but is not hempy. is it auto feed ? sounds kinda frankenjunk

It was a cheap pen off amazon so not 100% sure how accurate it is but I do know the water where I live is some of the cleanest purest water in the world.

How do I go about monitoring the pH.

It's basicly coco/perlite with a res at the bottom same as a traditional hempy just instead of pure perlite it's either coco or coco/perlite. I've heard it being called hempy, hempy hybrid, self wicking etc. We've had this discussion before with my first grow journal, I understand that traditional hempy is perlite only.

This isn't where I got the idea from but it's an example and identical to what im growing in, most people I've seen that grow this way say to put a drainage hole between 2 - 3 inches up, i put the hole 3 inches from the base.

 
gtfo youtube.

hempy is easier hand water to start. you can literally put it on a schedule if you place the hole correctly for the bucket. water/feed every 2 -3 days in veg. 2 to daily in flower.

by the time you are in mid to late veg the buckets should weigh feathers when lifted before feeding. if not you risk ph, root rot, and other issues. hempy needs a dry cycle. constant watering or auto feed won't let it. that's where those things fail. all the time.

if you run a constant res it needs constant monitoring. mostly because it doesn't get a dry cycle. eventually you'll need enzyme scrubbers etc. sort of anti-hempy, which is built on gearing down and getting simpler. not the opposite where you are going.

once you get it dialed with hand water, then i'd move on to doing a diy auto feed or other system. otherwise just use a prebuilt like the mfgr suggests. hempy is a diy system. that's why it's not a huge winner with folk trying to sell stuff.
 
gtfo youtube.

hempy is easier hand water to start. you can literally put it on a schedule if you place the hole correctly for the bucket. water/feed every 2 -3 days in veg. 2 to daily in flower.

by the time you are in mid to late veg the buckets should weigh feathers when lifted before feeding. if not you risk ph, root rot, and other issues. hempy needs a dry cycle. constant watering or auto feed won't let it. that's where those things fail. all the time.

if you run a constant res it needs constant monitoring. mostly because it doesn't get a dry cycle. eventually you'll need enzyme scrubbers etc. sort of anti-hempy, which is built on gearing down and getting simpler. not the opposite where you are going.

once you get it dialed with hand water, then i'd move on to doing a diy auto feed or other system. otherwise just use a prebuilt like the mfgr suggests. hempy is a diy system. that's why it's not a huge winner with folk trying to sell stuff.

:rofl: like i said youtube wasn't where i originally got the idea of hempy style buckets using coco instead of perlite but in the video he does mention using coco aswell as the traditional hempy method with perlite only, there is a lot of people who grow this way, both traditional and with coco. It was the simplicity of the hempy bucket that made me want to try growing in the first place.

Isn't the principle the same only using coco/perlite ?
I feed the plants every couple of days now and make sure I get around half of what I put in out to try oxygenate and renew the nutrients in the reservoir even if the roots most likely haven't made their way that far down yet.

I'll be starting another grow 3 or 4 weeks after this grow is done that's if they survive long enough to actually harvest.
If you don't mind me asking questions every other day, would you be willing to talk me through how you would set up a traditional hempy, how to measure, figure out my water table, where to put the drainage hole etc. I did pm you last month asking about where the drainage should be and was still left unsure since im new to growing.
In my first grow journal i used the same method as now, the same nutrients and the plants thrived, they produced around 1 and a half lbs dry from 3 plants hence why I had gone back to the same method, the grow after that, my previous grow I grew in perlite, used canna nutrients and it turned out a disaster, 6 plants 14 oz dry. Leaves were turning yellow, wilting and falling off everywhere etc.

I tried a diy auto feed last time, I spent months converting my attic into a grow room, i had everything set up to automatically feed the plants and recirculate but that went tits up due to an electrical inspection on the house so everything had to get torn down again so sticking to something like hempy is more preferable.
 
i dunno why i never saw your pm.

hempy is stupid simple. you can run other media but if you stick with perlite it's dumb easy. i use two sizes of buckets 2L or 5L, depending what i'm growing, veg time, and how many plants i wanna run. i put the holes at 21/4 inches from the bottom. a 5L bucket will produce the same as a 20L fabric pot in a traditional grow.

you can use hydroton but it doesn't wick as well as perlite, and will work better with clones. once things hit the res it doesn't matter. coco works but not that great. coco doesn't like being in contact with the res, there's a greater chance of catching root issues with coco than hydroton or perlite.


i run RO water. it just makes for a clean start and puts everything in my control. i always know what's in the water and can trust my ppm/ec.

you can adapt pretty much any nute line compatible with hydro. i use mega crop which simplifies things incredibly. i barely if ever check my ec as a result, just measure and feed.

ph is hugely important, as it is in any hydro. i religiously ph to 5.8. it's been suggested that ph is not necessary with mega crop. there's been mixed results from those who dropped it, it's just good practice to ph.
 
these are the buckets i use.


full





i have a tendency to use the smaller ones more often. the 2L is incredibly small for what they will produce. most indoor spaces aren't big enough to support anything larger than the 5L.

the buckets are dollar store specials.
 
i dunno why i never saw your pm.

hempy is stupid simple. you can run other media but if you stick with perlite it's dumb easy. i use two sizes of buckets 2L or 5L, depending what i'm growing, veg time, and how many plants i wanna run. i put the holes at 21/4 inches from the bottom. a 5L bucket will produce the same as a 20L fabric pot in a traditional grow.

you can use hydroton but it doesn't wick as well as perlite, and will work better with clones. once things hit the res it doesn't matter. coco works but not that great. coco doesn't like being in contact with the res, there's a greater chance of catching root issues with coco than hydroton or perlite.


i run RO water. it just makes for a clean start and puts everything in my control. i always know what's in the water and can trust my ppm/ec.

you can adapt pretty much any nute line compatible with hydro. i use mega crop which simplifies things incredibly. i barely if ever check my ec as a result, just measure and feed.

ph is hugely important, as it is in any hydro. i religiously ph to 5.8. it's been suggested that ph is not necessary with mega crop. there's been mixed results from those who dropped it, it's just good practice to ph.

You replied buddy, i asked where would be the best to place the drainage hole on the 25L buckets, you replied 2 or 3 times about but I just didnt fully understand the whole water table part of the conversation and how to go about measuring things for the size of reservoir.

When you say 21/4 inches ? Is that 2.25 inch / 5.715cm.
I've seen some impressive plants grown in 2L buckets/bottles. I might go for 5L buckets when I grow the Northern lights and do traditional hempy with perlite, the last time i used it though the plants didn't seem as well planted/secure in the medium and started leaning over in the perlite as the grew bigger is that quite common ?

I'm using hydrocorn gold label at the moment, I think it's the same thing as hydroton just a different brand basicly clay pebbles. If I didn't need to use it then its money saved, regarding just using perlite in the reservoir, what do you use to stop it from coming out the drainage hole in the bucket ?
I understand what your saying about coco being in contact with the res and more likely to cause root issues, I'm guessing it's because it's saturated almost constantly.

Ideally I would prefer to use the tap water as there's no extra expense involved but again I totally understand what you are saying.
You mentioned earlier in a previous post that anything under 120ppm is like RO water. The tap water i tested earlier shows up as having an a ppm of 108 on the cheap pen and 100ppm on the bluelabs truncheon both have an ec of I think it was 1.6.

I know your not that familiar with UK nutrients but as far as nutrients go, would the pH perfect nutrients still work fine or would I be better possibly switching to the canna aqua vega/flores nutrients that i have there. I could post the labels up if that helps. They are supposedly meant more for recirculated systems but I've read many UK growers using it with hempy and saying it works the same as any other nutrient. Again I'm not that clued up on nutrients

I've always checked pH with the canna nutrients I've used but when I started using the pH perfect I stopped but have now started checking the pH and adjusting it using pH down to get it to a pH of 5.8.
Using the pH down on the pH perfect nutes, will that have any real adverse effects ?
AN say it fucks up the way their pH perfect nutrients work. Again I have no clue how their nutrients work or how it's supposed to stabilise the pH.

Thanks again for your replies and time.
 
Not sure if the plants are getting better or not and still not as healthy as they should be. I'll leave that up to more experienced growers to decide and say if they're pulling through.
Two of them are growing faster than the other. not sure if the one that hasn't grown much is stunted ?

20220221_222447.jpg
20220221_222519.jpg


20220221_222451.jpg
20220221_222509.jpg


20220221_222457.jpg
20220221_222526.jpg
U ok got more than one things going on with them is why.
 
Back
Top Bottom