Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

thank you Dennise! So you just change the light periods to let the plant know when its time to bloom? I am Joaquin by the way :) just love to use the Smokey McJoe Nickname lol and my friends call me Joe.

If anyone likes design check my page, NOT SPAM, just friendly stoned designs (not many... BY NOW! lol) Joe
 
In my experience it's very possible. Since LED's don't produce much radiant heat from the lamps, the "don't burn the back of your hand at the topmost leaves" rule of thumb doesn't work. LED's produce heat but most of it comes from the heat sink protecting the PCB's/chips and with my units is blown out the side vents.

I severely bleached two Chem Dog seedlings running two old-old style 3Wx100 units 12" off the bucket tops (DWC in 5 gal buckets.) I had to increase the height to approx 24" to get better growth without bleaching by trial and error. At the worst point I lost approx 50% of the green leaf area on the most affected plant. When I added two more buckets to the set up I also added two more old-old style 3Wx100 units (essentially 1 unit/ bucket) and had to move them up to 28" until the seedlings matured (about 3-4 weeks into veg) at which point I moved them down to about 24" and got great growth.

At 180W draw/unit over about 11 sq ft of grow area, that's 60+ W/sq ft.; a bit more intense than the situation you described. I basically let them grow up into the LED's. When I switched to 12/12 they stretched to about 12" or less and the top leaves started showing early stage bleaching symptoms. They seem pretty happy now at 15 to 18" off the top buds.
 
:circle-of-love:Morning Brainzfuxed, during veg, the recommendation height is 18"~24". During flower, 12"~18" will be better. :Namaste:
How far away should I out my 96x3 reflector from vegging plants

:thanks: yes, higher distance will help the plants to transit into LED smoothly. :thumb:
24" or more above the canopy should work out fine.
Just be sure to transition them into the LED rays gently if they've been under CFL's, T5, or even HID's. You'll want to set the light high (36" or so) for at least a few day until they adjust to the LED's then you can begin moving the light downward a couple of inches every couple of days until you're at 24" or so.

Hah, what matters is how the plants think.:Namaste:
You don't think 24 inches above canopy is too high?

:bravo:experimentation is the ladder of the progress.:circle-of-love:
I wouldn't have told you 24" if I thought it was too high now would I? Others may disagree and be able to offer better advice.
It's your girls and your garden man, do as you'd like. One of the of the joys of gardening is experimentation so play with light distance as you see fit and you'll probably end up where ever you and your girls are both happy. That being said, I suggest that you be patient and let your girls grow at their own pace without blasting them with too much light or being overly aggressive with nutrients. You'll be better off taking this approach. Once they're in bloom then you'll want to increase light intensity by lowering your lights to the 18" to 12" range with 12" being about the lowest.

My 2 cents anyways. Good luck and Happy Gardening!!
:peace:
 
:thumb:love your grow so much, they are full of poetry. With Buddha's bless, to see a world in a wild flower. :Namaste:
The Ganja Garden - Artificial Light Provided By 1,200 Watts of Mars-Hydro Sun Series LED Lighting

Pics taken during Weeks 2 to 4 of Flowering. Plants moved into the tent in 2 batches, two weeks apart.
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:thanks: Mars-Hydro

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Hey UncleCannabis (can I call you UnckyHerb if you like The Simpsons? ha ha..old episode).
Seriously tho', nice plants. If that is stretchy-LED-nodes, Alpaja, then I'll take it any day..
 
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hi arellanobrian!
I've seen this many times, now it's time to ask: why do a lot people dry in those cardboard boxes? Do you close them for a while when drying? what is your average drying loss in %?

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hey tony, thanx for the ?. the cardboard actually helps get the humidity stable as it helps absord mosture but only to certain degree, i usually do not cover the box as i dont have a fan and need some air flow. on top of all of that it is a very easy way to make a drying area very cheap :Namaste:


 
Hi Brainzfuxed, the full spectrum is good for both veg and flower. You can choose to turn on both buttons or only Veg button during veg. If you choose to turn ony Veg on during veg, it will save you more electricity. :Namaste:
When should.I leave growth button and when should I leave bloom button on? From what I was reading some leaving both buttons on at all stages. Pros/cons? Please advise
 
:thumb:Thanks for sharing, supergroomer. They will be!:high-five:
Well I took down the Blueberry Kush last night. Hopefully this will be some top quality smoke!! :peace:

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:thumb:another useful post!
I think Alpaja should give some thought to what his daytime (lights on) versus night time (lights off) temps were running during the time when he experienced longer than expected node lengths.

Day/night temperature differential (referred to in botany jargon as DIF) has been proven to affect node lengths in plants just as much if not more than light intensity / color spectrum.

A day/night temperature differential of more than about 10 to 15 degrees F will result in extended node lengths while reducing this temperature differential will result in reduced node length distances.
However, it should be noted that maintaining too low of a day/night DIF or a negative day/night DIF for too long will result in chlorophyll problems so there's a fine line to walk between reducing node length and creating chlorophyll issues.

For those who may be interested in this subject.
Ashspublications.org

:peace:
 
:thumb: thanks, DarkSidofMike,you're most helpful.
the first thing to do is to add more light to your area ...... old model reflector 96X3W is CLEARLY not enought for a 2X3 area ..... you need 2 panels like that to give enought light power to your plants.

170W true watts for 6 square feet is really not enought ..... this is under 30w per square foots and you need 45-50 minimum .... my advise will be add another panel 96X3 and you will have a very nice light.

and every single plants will love the better light power but also better light distribution.

1 thing is clear .... you need more light .... at least 50% more but 100% more will be perfect.

each 48X3 reflector can cover 40X40cm or 35cmX45cm (1.15' X 1.5') for full flowering ... the news 48X5 reflector can cover 47X47cm or 45cmX50cm (1.5' X 1.66') each for full flowering.

more is better than less ... you plants cannot be hurt by little more light power than needed.

:circle-of-love: hey, Happyjoy, it seems you learn a lot from this grow, which is good.:Namaste:
hey man. thnks for the input and help!
i think i wasnt clear. heres whats actually going on.
sara and others, please tell me what you think, if i actually still need to throw in more light right now or if its doesnt actually seem to be the culprit (i can put in a CFL on each side. but i want to first make sure its acutally the problem). i think i may have narrowed down to other reasons why the side plants have smaller flowers.....since theyre only an inch or two out of being directly under the light on the sides, its hard for me to imagine that thats the main cause.. or cause at all.

the actual scrog is not 2x3. the room size is 2x3. but the actual scrog is about 2.4x1.5 almost everything is directly underneath the lights except for an inch or two on the sides.... which im pretty sure the LED should be covering.

i think the size issue might be due to a few factors.
1)being that the two plants on the sides were growing and strecthing much more than the middle one, i did an extra topping on most of the branches on those two big plants. i just realized that even though their buds are smaller, but they have many more than the middle one... so im thinking that is probably one of the main reasons
2) when i put them under the scrog net, i purposely put turned each plant, so that the largest part of it was facing towards the middle of the scrog, that way they wouldnt stretch out of control to different parts i didnt want them too.

as far as the general size issue. i think it has to do with the fact, that i didnt actaully transplant into the 3 gallon containers, untill around 1.5 weeks before flowering, since i didnt have the LED light yet, i didnt want to move them into bigger containers till i got the light.
so im guessing that they didnt relaly have room and time to spread out their roots. hence the size.

so i learned from a bunch of mistakes
1)to make sure to transplant to bigger container early enough in the veg.
2)i dont think i will top certain plants, and leave others, in the future. its too difficult to maitnint uniforimity with a scrog that way.
i think its best to keep all the plants on the same topping schedule.
especially in my case where theyre all sativa dom.

agreed. :Namaste:
yep, 1.5 X 2.4 is ideal for 1 panel 96X3 .....your buds are nice looking, im sure your next grow will be better, no doubts
 
First on page 1000?







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:bravo:
 
:circle-of-love:Hi Kriaze, green leds is easy to tell with light off. The led chip is green. The color of the led chip in the light-off picture is obviously not green. :Namaste:
If anyone is interested in buying my 2x 96X3 Reflectors they are also for sale. Just pm me if you're interested with what you would be prepared to pay. They've been used in one grow from veg through to halfway in flower where my plant gave up the ghost. This is not down to the lights, but I feel that the lights didn't help. Offer me enough and they're yours.

Funnily enough to all the naysayers regarding the green LED's being warm white, there are a total of three people that see this grow including myself. All three of us agree that they're green, I suppose my Photographs couldn't show that clearly enough for some people. All the best :thumb:
 
Damn missed!
 
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