Lower leaf yellowing, deficiency?

[farside05]

5: 1: 4.5

isn't a 2: 1: 3 ratio or similar a bit friendlier ? i agree a higher n won't hurt here though. that is a lot of k.

Actually 154-30-132 works out to a label N-P-K ratio of 2.2-1-2.3 since only 43% of the P and 83% of the K is in a usable form by the plant.

 

[bluter]

Actually 154-30-132 works out to a label N-P-K ratio of 2.2-1-2.3 since only 43% of the P and 83% of the K is in a usable form by the plant.

right ! i get it now.

 

[bluter]

Funny that you're worried about too much K with what you hit your flowering plants with!

I'm looking to get to 5-1-6 in late flower or thereabouts.

lol. if i use the booster i drop way back on the MC and i run more calmag to compensate the n. it actually runs a touch cooler than the MC alone.

 

[InTheShed]

lol. if i use the booster i drop way back on the MC and i run more calmag to compensate the n. it actually runs a touch cooler than the MC alone.

Could be, but I'd like to see the numbers on that!

 

[bluter]

Could be, but I'd like to see the numbers on that!

i'll have to remember to measure ...

i actually do have it somewhere in the journal. i shoot for a 1200 ppm or so by finish. preferably under.

 

[farside05]

Thanks a lot @farside05 Is that a US gallon? 3.78541 litres? Would you be able to whip me up a measurement for that K booster in litres please mate? I can buy 1kg of Potassium Sulphate (Sulphate of Potash? Same thing right lol?) for super cheap, would that be more convinient than adjusting the existing tri-part ratios and just adding the potassium sulfate solution you suggest in two weeks?

303g of powder per gallon/3.78541 = is 80 grams per liter to make the concentrated fertilizer. 5ml per gallon feed rate/3.78541 = dose at 1.32 ml per liter when feeding.

Yes Potassium Sulfate is the same as Sulfate of Potash.

I assumed that Shed was trying to get to 150-30-180 or somewhere close when he was doing his calcs and got you as close as he could given what was on hand. He and I have targets that are very similar. He reaches his with a blend of existing products and I went down the rabbit hole of buying all the individual salts and blending my own. I didn't rerun the initial calcs to see if that was the case so I'd have to defer to him if that was a correct assumption. If that was the case, adding the Potassium Sulfate to the mix is an easy solution. If my assumption was incorrect, then there may be another blend of what you have to get you there.

Is that all you would do during heavy bloom, just increase K? I read so much about cutting N during flower but is that neccessary? I read that too much N causes excess stretching and bad taste in leaves... but then I read that it's actually excess P that causes the bad taste, or an excess of any nutrients for a prolonged time.

Just wondering what truth there is to the matter as I don't know myth from fact currently and feel like I need to adjust my knowledge on how flowering nutes are meant to work

Thanks so much for all the help and advice, definitely a happy customer at the @InTheShed Nutrient Clinic here at 420 Magazine

The only macro I see that needs increased for bloom is K.

Taste is more of a function of the drying and curing process than what you fed your plants.

I'm a cynic, so to me, flowering nutes are meant to separate the grower from his money. I'm from the school of feeding your plant the same ratios from beginning to end, only varying the strength. My biggest Grow Journal is called Growing Without Bloom Nutes and lays out the rationale.

 

[InTheShed]

I assumed that Shed was trying to get to 150-30-180 or somewhere close when he was doing his calcs and got you as close as he could given what was on hand.

I was aiming for 150-x-160 for now and 150-x-180 for later!

 

[farside05]

I was aiming for 150-x-160 for now and 150-x-180 for later!

I got close with 154-30-176 with my Potassium Sulfate idea. Is there a blend of his existing to get him there? I still got 2.5 hours left at work. I may plug and chug some numbers if nothing else significant happens.

 

[InTheShed]

I got close with 154-30-176 with my Potassium Sulfate idea. Is there a blend of his existing to get him there? I still got 2.5 hours left at work. I may plug and chug some numbers if nothing else significant happens.

Feel free to plug and chug at golden time! I just remember it was tough with all the NH4 in the mix among Ca/Mg and K obstacles. I've got the actual numbers at work and I'm off today.

 

[farside05]

Feel free to plug and chug at golden time! I just remember it was tough with all the NH4 in the mix among Ca/Mg and K obstacles. I've got the actual numbers at work and I'm off today.

Days off? What are those? I'm on day 5 of 12, 12 hour shifts. Had an employee quit on the 12th and another on vacation. There's only 4 in my department so that leaves two of us to cover a job that requires 24/7/365. I have a replacement for the one who quit, but she's still working out her 2 weeks notice at her old job.

 

[bluter]

Taste is more of a function of the drying and curing process than what you fed your plants.

above.

I'm a cynic, so to me, flowering nutes are meant to separate the grower from his money.

if you can't get all the way to a good finish on base nutes alone then the line is crap. some of my best finishes are on base nutes alone.

i have used boosters though. just not heavy. most times the plants were a bit loaded on n through veg too. and i drop back on the base nutes to make head room. it's not really adding. more of a target.

i suspect some lines actually work better with them, on purpose, to sell product.

I'm from the school of feeding your plant the same ratios from beginning to end, only varying the strength. My biggest Grow Journal is called Growing Without Bloom Nutes and lays out the rationale.

i agree with that for sure. maybe with just a bit of variance. nothing real drastic at all though.

i've run different plants / phenos / indicas / sativas / side by side and never tailored feed for each. i always did one mix for all, but tried to balance it so most were mostly happy most of the time.

every once in a while i had to treat one different to help it along, but it was always an exception. 98% of them made do with what i tossed at them.

 

[Roy Growin]

above.






if you can't get all the way to a good finish on base nutes alone then the line is crap. some of my best finishes are on base nutes alone.

i have used boosters though. just not heavy. most times the plants were a bit loaded on n through veg too. and i drop back on the base nutes to make head room. it's not really adding. more of a target.

i suspect some lines actually work better with them, on purpose, to sell product.






i agree with that for sure. maybe with just a bit of variance. nothing real drastic at all though.

i've run different plants / phenos / indicas / sativas / side by side and never tailored feed for each. i always did one mix for all, but tried to balance it so most were mostly happy most of the time.

every once in a while i had to treat one different to help it along, but it was always an exception. 98% of them made do with what i tossed at them.

YEP

 

[bluter]

Days off? What are those? I'm on day 5 of 12, 12 hour shifts. Had an employee quit on the 12th and another on vacation. There's only 4 in my department so that leaves two of us to cover a job that requires 24/7/365. I have a replacement for the one who quit, but she's still working out her 2 weeks notice at her old job.

dammit ... i need work soon.

i might be too lazy and expensive though. rumour has it i grow weed too....

 

[farside05]

Feel free to plug and chug at golden time! I just remember it was tough with all the NH4 in the mix among Ca/Mg and K obstacles. I've got the actual numbers at work and I'm off today.

Wow, that is a tough nut to crack. Just about the time you think you have the N-P-K close, the Ca and Mg numbers are upside down with twice the amount of Mg to Ca, and Sulfur is through the roof. Potassium Sulfate looks like the easiest road, especially if @Weffalo can source it cheap.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I use solution grade potassium sulfate (K, S) from Down to Earth, and also their solution grade Langbeinite (K, Mg, S).

RE: NPK...

A 10-pound bag of 10-10-10 contains 1 pound each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. That is, the product contains 10% N, 10% P, and 10% K. So, there's 3 lbs of NPK and 7 lbs of other stuff, for example organic material, peat moss, etc.

If you had a 1 quart (32 fl oz) bottle of fertilizer, with an NPK value of 11-2-4, then 3.5 fl oz of that are nitrogen (11% of 32 fl oz). With a scale, you can convert volume to weight.

So, for any fertilizer product with an NPK value on it, the amount of N, P, and K you are actually including in the soil, or fertigating with, will be a specific percent of the amount of the product you used, out of the bag or out of the bottle.

 

[Weffalo]

Wow so many replies overnight, thank you so much to everyone who is offering help and advice <3 Sorry that your answers probably lead to more questions but I am honestly learning a ton

I'm a cynic, so to me, flowering nutes are meant to separate the grower from his money. I'm from the school of feeding your plant the same ratios from beginning to end, only varying the strength. My biggest Grow Journal is called Growing Without Bloom Nutes and lays out the rationale.

I'll have a read through that journal when I get five, thanks mate.

The only macro I see that needs increased for bloom is K.

So for the final ripening/last two weeks T.A suggests "Final Part" ripening agent, 0-6-5 NPK, with nothing else? Would this be a bad idea or is there some valid reason for a "ripening agent" in the final 2 weeks, does it just cut N to basically initiate a fade? Is it some form of crop steering?

Taste is more of a function of the drying and curing process than what you fed your plants.

So I do know this, but my last plants didn't finish well at all and have barely any taste, they were dried at 60f/60rH for 14 days exactly and then put into grove bags where they have been curing at around 60% rH... Curing isn't done yet but I know the drying was perfect and yet the dried product really doesn't have any flavour despite having a super suuuper pungent smell?

My thoughts were that it was due to mistakes in the growing process seeing as I know that the drying/curing process has definitely been done correctly, I guess I can't confirm this until the cure finishes and I taste it again so I'll have to wait another week or two I just read that if your plants don't taste good after drying it's unlikely they will after curing either

Wow, that is a tough nut to crack. Just about the time you think you have the N-P-K close, the Ca and Mg numbers are upside down with twice the amount of Mg to Ca, and Sulfur is through the roof. Potassium Sulfate looks like the easiest road, especially if @Weffalo can source it cheap.

Thanks a ton @farside05 - I can pick up the Potassium Sulfate and make a solution if that's the easiest road to a good ratio no problem! Last question on the topic sorry but does it matter what temperature I mix the solution at? I never know with this kinda thing

Again thanks to everyone for looking into this and coming up with a good solution for me, you all rock!!

Just waking up fully and then I'm gonna go see how she is doing this morning, hopefully no progression of yellowing seeing as I mostly deleted the early warning system

 

[Weffalo]

Still praying today, two days in a row so really positive. Don't really see further damage

 

[cbdhemp808]

Pale leaves with yellow/brown tips could be a sign of sulfur deficiency.

 

[Weffalo]

Pale leaves with yellow/brown tips could be a sign of sulfur deficiency.

Thanks a lot mate, think there's a combination of light burn and nute burn from earlier on in the grow but your probably right it was probably sulfur too.

I checked older photos from this thread and those leaves look the same so it's not progressed/gotten worse and from what I understand I've definitely got enough S in the mix now, with more to be added in a few weeks with the Potassium Sulfate

 

[cbdhemp808]

Actually 154-30-132 works out to a label N-P-K ratio of 2.2-1-2.3 since only 43% of the P and 83% of the K is in a usable form by the plant.

hey farside, would you have a look at my post HERE... I'm trying to learn more about usability of nutrients.