Lower leaf yellowing, deficiency?

I see how it's pointless from a "will this mix burn my plant" point of view but if I'm measuring over 1100 ppms is that absolutely fine and likely the additional non-available components you mention? That's all I'm wanting to check really as my meter and those nutrient ppms total are quite drastically different.

I would guess that there's maybe up to 150 "other" ppms in your base nutes. If your're adding seaweed, thats adding ppms too. What is your water's ppm on its own before you add anything to it? You can break it all down by measuring:

1) Measure water on its own.
2) Measure water plus base nutes.
3) Subtract #1 from #2 to see what the ppms of the nutes added.
4) Subtract 550 #3 to see the non-available or "other" ppms that are in your base nutes.
5) Measure water plus base nutes plus seaweed.
6) Subtract #2 from #5 to see what seaweed added.

The thing that's most likely going to burn your plant is ppm's of N. Look at any large bag (like 50 lb bags) of commercial fertilizer. Nearly all will have different injector rates and corresponding amounts of fertilizer needed to hit different N targets (see Mixing Instructions on this page for an example). Large greenhouses are mainly concerned about ppms of N, and less concerned on the total ppms. That being said, even if you're at 1100 total, you're likely still fine because only 150 of that 1100 is N. If N were 300 of the 1100 it would be a different story. Those babies would be toasty.

I will be making a solution, does that keep for as long as I need it or should I put an expiry date label on the bottle please? 🙏

Its only a single salt dissolved in distilled water. It should have a long shelf life, at least a year. If it were multiple salts mixed together and dissolved you might have to worry about things falling out of suspension or different chemical reactions. Even with some of my multiple salt concoctions they're still good for 6 months to a year.
 
I would guess that there's maybe up to 150 "other" ppms in your base nutes. If your're adding seaweed, thats adding ppms too. What is your water's ppm on its own before you add anything to it? You can break it all down by measuring:

1) Measure water on its own.
2) Measure water plus base nutes.
3) Subtract #1 from #2 to see what the ppms of the nutes added.
4) Subtract 550 #3 to see the non-available or "other" ppms that are in your base nutes.
5) Measure water plus base nutes plus seaweed.
6) Subtract #2 from #5 to see what seaweed added.

The thing that's most likely going to burn your plant is ppm's of N. Look at any large bag (like 50 lb bags) of commercial fertilizer. Nearly all will have different injector rates and corresponding amounts of fertilizer needed to hit different N targets (see Mixing Instructions on this page for an example). Large greenhouses are mainly concerned about ppms of N, and less concerned on the total ppms. That being said, even if you're at 1100 total, you're likely still fine because only 150 of that 1100 is N. If N were 300 of the 1100 it would be a different story. Those babies would be toasty.



Its only a single salt dissolved in distilled water. It should have a long shelf life, at least a year. If it were multiple salts mixed together and dissolved you might have to worry about things falling out of suspension or different chemical reactions. Even with some of my multiple salt concoctions they're still good for 6 months to a year.
Love the knowledge buddy.
 
What about water temp? Will that make any difference? CL🍀 :popcorn: :Namaste:

I think mixing is a lot easier at warmer temps, but farside's actually done it so he'd be the person to ask. :)

I have a stainless steel pot I use. Pour powder in pot. Add water. Stir. If it doesn't all easily dissolve, heat but don't boil. Continue to stir until dissolved. Let cool. Transfer to storage bottle.

It may or may not need any heat to dissolve. I'm normally making a product with multiple salts and higher strength so it's harder to get things dissolved. You'd only be using one salt and lower strength.
 
I would guess that there's maybe up to 150 "other" ppms in your base nutes. If your're adding seaweed, thats adding ppms too. What is your water's ppm on its own before you add anything to it? You can break it all down by measuring:

1) Measure water on its own.
2) Measure water plus base nutes.
3) Subtract #1 from #2 to see what the ppms of the nutes added.
4) Subtract 550 #3 to see the non-available or "other" ppms that are in your base nutes.
5) Measure water plus base nutes plus seaweed.
6) Subtract #2 from #5 to see what seaweed added.

The thing that's most likely going to burn your plant is ppm's of N. Look at any large bag (like 50 lb bags) of commercial fertilizer. Nearly all will have different injector rates and corresponding amounts of fertilizer needed to hit different N targets (see Mixing Instructions on this page for an example). Large greenhouses are mainly concerned about ppms of N, and less concerned on the total ppms. That being said, even if you're at 1100 total, you're likely still fine because only 150 of that 1100 is N. If N were 300 of the 1100 it would be a different story. Those babies would be toasty.



Its only a single salt dissolved in distilled water. It should have a long shelf life, at least a year. If it were multiple salts mixed together and dissolved you might have to worry about things falling out of suspension or different chemical reactions. Even with some of my multiple salt concoctions they're still good for 6 months to a year.
Thanks so much for your time and advice @farside05 - Really fantastic, I appreciate the breakdown and that makes complete sense.

I've learned so much in this thread, one problem has led to way more knowledge on nutrition and I'm extremely grateful to you all :green_heart: :thanks:

I'll mix up my potash when it arrives and fire it in! :morenutes:
 
Potassium is running late but hopefully it's in the next few days before it's a problem, not seen the leaves praying as much the last few days but probably because I can't fill the res twice during lights on which I think she would drink easily if given the chance :rofl:

Frost is starting to pile on, I think I can see some yellowing spots on the edges of the leaves which I think it K def? But it's on the top & not on the lower ones which makes me think maybe not 🤷‍♂️

My one tagged leaf is still absolutely perfect!

Day 27:
tropbanday27_1.jpg

tropbanday27_2.jpg
tropbanday27_4.jpg
tropbanday27_6.jpg
tropbanday27_7.jpg
tropbanday27_8.jpg
tropbanday27_10.jpg
 
May be time to look into an automated fill system for your next round?
Good idea mate but probably the time after, next run needs to start in the next few days I think.

Doing 4x3 gal sips with a 2.5 litre res, so the res ratio will be much bigger meaning only once a day refills (I hope) :D
 
Got some yellowing on the edges, K def for sure. I'll put pics up later when i get home to show you.

Is there a way I can verify I mixed the potash well enough @farside05 ? I'm thinking if I can verify it via PPM that would be good so I know the plant is definitely getting the K it needs. Been feeding it the last 3 days now @ 1.3ml/L so the def is probably just because I should have started earlier but was waiting on delivery, it's always nice to double check things if possible though :)
 
Mann it's been a busy week, glad to finally sit down at my desk and smoke some herb and relaxxx!! :reading420magazine:

Here's the pics of the K def, pretty sure that's what it is, I don't think it's getting worse so it's probably just from before I started really adding the potash solution.

I got some pics showing the progression over the last 5 days:

Day 30:
tropban_day30_2.jpg

Little bit of lower leaf damage but only on two:
tropban_day30_4.jpg
tropban_day30_5.jpg


Day 31
tropban_day31_1.jpg


This is when I noticed the K def had worsened:
tropban_day31_2.jpg
tropban_day31_3.jpg


Some with no LEDs from same day:
tropban_day31_7.jpg
tropban_day31_8.jpg
tropban_day31_9.jpg


Day 32
tropban_day32_1.jpg


Will make a second post with the rest of the images, just wanted to show a thorough picture of the def over the last few days. To be honest... it's probably resolved already? I'm not noticing it get much worse myself but I'd always welcome second opinions :green_heart:
 
Cont

Day 32
tropban_day32_2.jpg
tropban_day32_3.jpg


Anndd finally, today!
Day 34
tropban_day34_1.jpg
tropban_day34_3.jpg
tropban_day34_4.jpg
tropban_day34_5.jpg
tropban_day34_6.jpg
tropban_day34_7.jpg


I've not noticed her praying much recently either, that could be more due to feeding time/time i take the picture though, I'm only just getting to fill res and snap pics a few hours before lights off - In future I'll be using a less energy friendly but more user friendly lights on time :rofl:
 
Mann it's been a busy week, glad to finally sit down at my desk and smoke some herb and relaxxx!! :reading420magazine:

Here's the pics of the K def, pretty sure that's what it is, I don't think it's getting worse so it's probably just from before I started really adding the potash solution.

I got some pics showing the progression over the last 5 days:

Day 30:
tropban_day30_2.jpg

Little bit of lower leaf damage but only on two:
tropban_day30_4.jpg
tropban_day30_5.jpg


Day 31
tropban_day31_1.jpg


This is when I noticed the K def had worsened:
tropban_day31_2.jpg
tropban_day31_3.jpg


Some with no LEDs from same day:
tropban_day31_7.jpg
tropban_day31_8.jpg
tropban_day31_9.jpg


Day 32
tropban_day32_1.jpg


Will make a second post with the rest of the images, just wanted to show a thorough picture of the def over the last few days. To be honest... it's probably resolved already? I'm not noticing it get much worse myself but I'd always welcome second opinions :green_heart:
These really do bounce back well. A thing of beauty :Namaste:
 
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