Lower leaf yellowing, deficiency?

InTheShed said:
No problem. I'll get you new numbers with the potassium sulfate included.

Does your seaweed have an NPK value or is it just for good vibes?
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Just for good vibes :rofl: I like that, it's cold pressed seaweed, no NPK, manufacturers description: "Seaweed is a 100% natural plant and soil vitality enhancer that encourages prolific root and foliage growth as well an increase in flowering sites, and larger flowers and fruits."

Farside did say I could just add the Sulfate but if you have the time to run some numbers again I'm certainly very grateful. According to the breeder this strain has another 50ish days left, would you feed this new mix you are checking until finish or should I gradually reduce the amount of N as she finishes?

The feedchart mentions a ripening agent but from what I now understand/have been reading about... the ripening agent 0-6-5 would mainly be useful as a crop steering tool to signal to the plant it's time to finish as there's no N available for further growth? Am I understanding that correctly? Again I'm just wondering where to now deviate from the laid out feeding schedule and if to still use this ripening agent in the final two weeks basically.

And really thanks so much for your help :thanks: 🙏 :green_heart:
 
Weffalo said:
would you feed this new mix you are checking until finish or should I gradually reduce the amount of N as she finishes?
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No need to lower the N levels as the grow finishes up.
Weffalo said:
The feedchart mentions a ripening agent
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They've got college loans to pay off or shareholders to keep happy!
 
InTheShed said:
No problem. I'll get you new numbers with the potassium sulfate included.

Does your seaweed have an NPK value or is it just for good vibes?
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I got it if you want me to post it.
 
There you go @Weffalo . That's what it looks like with the Potassium Sulfate added to the mix.

weffalo.jpg

weffalo.jpg

  • Media owner farside05
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farside05 said:
There you go @Weffalo . That's what it looks like with the Potassium Sulfate added to the mix.

weffalo.jpg

weffalo.jpg

  • Media owner farside05
  • Date added
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Amazing thank you so much, really good to see the data.

Should that mean my water PPM should match that or is it not that straightforward?
My EC is reading 1.9-2.0 which I think (i'd need to check again switching to PPM) is much higher than that so it's got me curious.
 
What it means is that your total ppm will be 550ish (probably higher just from other non-available components in the fertilizer) plus the ppms of your water.

To me, EC is a pointless number in soil or soil-less. There's a place for it in true hydro. Here's my rationale:

Are these two things the same?

Example 1

200ppm N
100ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Example 2

100ppm N
200ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Both examples have the same EC of 1.2. but Example 1 is N rich and likely to burn tips. Example 2 is P heavy and likely to lock out micronutrients. EC only shows the total and not the individual components that go into what makes up that total. PPMs per element is the only way to travel.
 
farside05 said:
What it means is that your total ppm will be 550ish (probably higher just from other non-available components in the fertilizer) plus the ppms of your water.

To me, EC is a pointless number in soil or soil-less. There's a place for it in true hydro. Here's my rationale:

Are these two things the same?

Example 1

200ppm N
100ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Example 2

100ppm N
200ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Both examples have the same EC of 1.2. but Example 1 is N rich and likely to burn tips. Example 2 is P heavy and likely to lock out micronutrients. EC only shows the total and not the individual components that go into what makes up that total. PPMs per element is the only way to travel.
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Ive only ever gone off ppm (not individually) ive never worked out each 1
 
GreenFingaz said:
Ive only ever gone off ppm (not individually) ive never worked out each 1
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Total ppm in soil and soil-less is as meaningless as EC in my book. Same reasoning as I previously demonstrated. No offense intended.

There's a freeware program out on the web that will calculate it. I won't mention the name here since it's not looked up on favorably. I'm not a fan of it because I find it cumbersome to use. I created my own spreadsheet to make the calculations. If you want to know the name of the freeware, or want a link to my spreadsheet, shoot me a PM.
 
farside05 said:
There you go @Weffalo . That's what it looks like with the Potassium Sulfate added to the mix.
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Well as long as you have the spreadsheet open... :)

How many grams/L was that?
farside05 said:
Total ppm in soil and soil-less is as meaningless as EC in my book. Same reasoning as I previously demonstrated. No offense intended.

There's a freeware program out on the web that will calculate it. I won't mention the name here since it's not looked up on favorably. I'm not a fan of it because I find it cumbersome to use. I created my own spreadsheet to make the calculations. If you want to know the name of the freeware, or want a link to my spreadsheet, shoot me a PM.
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Can't mention it in PMs either it turns out. Moving on. :slide:
 
InTheShed said:
That's if Weff is making the concentrated liquid. What is it in g of powder per liter?
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Its .4 g of Potassium Sulfate per gallon so .4/3.78541 = .106 grams per liter if you're adding the powder straight to your mix and not making a solution out of it.
 
@Weffalo Add farside's 0.106g/L of potassium sulfate to the mix on your next watering and keep that up for a week and see how it looks.
 
farside05 said:
What it means is that your total ppm will be 550ish (probably higher just from other non-available components in the fertilizer) plus the ppms of your water.

To me, EC is a pointless number in soil or soil-less. There's a place for it in true hydro. Here's my rationale:

Are these two things the same?

Example 1

200ppm N
100ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Example 2

100ppm N
200ppm P
300ppm K
600 total ppm, and on the Hanna .5 scale, the EC would be 1.2

Both examples have the same EC of 1.2. but Example 1 is N rich and likely to burn tips. Example 2 is P heavy and likely to lock out micronutrients. EC only shows the total and not the individual components that go into what makes up that total. PPMs per element is the only way to travel.
Click to expand...
I see how it's pointless from a "will this mix burn my plant" point of view but if I'm measuring over 1100 ppms is that absolutely fine and likely the additional non-available components you mention? That's all I'm wanting to check really as my meter and those nutrient ppms total are quite drastically different.

I will be making a solution, does that keep for as long as I need it or should I put an expiry date label on the bottle please? 🙏
 
Weffalo said:
I will be making a solution, does that keep for as long as I need it or should I put an expiry date label on the bottle please?
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I'll let farside answer that but used distilled water to make sure you're just getting what you mix in.
 
InTheShed said:
@Weffalo Add farside's 0.106g/L of potassium sulfate to the mix on your next watering and keep that up for a week and see how it looks.
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As above post I'd probably prefer it as the liquid solution as it's easier than getting my scales out each day :rofl: Thanks so much though mate, perfect, I'll see how things go :thanks: 🙏
 
InTheShed said:
I'll let farside answer that but used distilled water to make sure you're just getting what you mix in.
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Ok mate will do, thanks again :))
 
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