Soo guys I got in touch with biobizz about testing the ph for there Lightmix medium.... this is what they said
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I got mixed messages from that response lol they're basically saying you don't have to because the microorganisms are doing there thing but you should do it anyway lolSoo guys I got in touch with biobizz about testing the ph for there Lightmix medium.... this is what they said
@GreenFingaz Wow thanks so much mate, that's great info.Soo guys I got in touch with biobizz about testing the ph for there Lightmix medium.... this is what they said
Yeah after re-reading what they said I think they actually answered the question of "What ph should my nutrient mix be with BioBizz nutrients" and not something about the soil mix?I got mixed messages from that response lol they're basically saying you don't have to because the microorganisms are doing there thing but you should do it anyway lol
I know the feeling .I hate altering PH though because I'm only mixing 3L a time and it's so easy to go too far and have to correct
@bluter I'll grab a pic with lights off, to my eyes the green has gotten deeper at the canopy, it's hard to see and it's not uniform but not all of the leaves are as bright green as they have been.nice defol.
the top shots still have the plant looking underfed to me. a lights off shot to get the true color of the tops would be a good idea. i think the light could be washing it out.
Thanks @cbdhemp808This shot from a week ago tells a story...
New growth at top of canopy is pale green, while lower down is dark green. Some lower leaves going yellow. I read this possibly as... transition to flower nutes took place, and then there wasn't enough nitrogen. The plant started stealing nitrogen from the lower leaves.
@Azimuth is a SIP grower... Azi, do you have any thoughts on this? What about fertigation through the tube vs. fertigation directly to the soil? Maybe some nutrients require the soil microbes in order to be absorbed?
Again, I'd make sure enough N is being given, and the supporting minerals for N... Fe, Zn, Mn. Also, make sure there's enough sulfur.
Nitrogen is a mobile element so if that was the issue I would expect the top most leaves to be the darkest green and the lower most leaves yellow which is not the case here.New growth at top of canopy is pale green, while lower down is dark green. Some lower leaves going yellow. I read this possibly as... transition to flower nutes took place, and then there wasn't enough nitrogen. The plant started stealing nitrogen from the lower leaves.
@Azimuth is a SIP grower... Azi, do you have any thoughts on this? What about fertigation through the tube vs. fertigation directly to the soil? Maybe some nutrients require the soil microbes in order to be absorbed?
Nitrogen is a mobile element so if that was the issue I would expect the top most leaves to be the darkest green and the lower most leaves yellow which is not the case here.
Maybe just too low a level of nutes?
Thanks a lot @bluter From advice I've received I can just up K with Potassium Sulphate and I should be at the right ratios for flower? Or do they also look like they also need more P?he's feeding nitrogen heavy and his nutes are still balanced to veg / preflower.
i'd be feeding them for flower by this time with more emphasis on p/k. i might not go the full flower schedule, but i'd definitely be moving toward it now.
he's about double the grow, and half the micro and bloom if you go by the nute company feed charts.
the plants do look a bit better. i think they got some of the n back in but are looking for the pk at the same time.
Thanks a lot @bluter From advice I've received I can just up K with Potassium Sulphate and I should be at the right ratios for flower? Or do they also look like they also need more P?
I'm actually only just getting round to watching and reading the links in @farside05 's journal but I believe the jist of it is how we don't need to use so much P in flower and most of it doesn't get used, do my plants show signs of P def in your opinion?
Sorry for double checking everything but I'm very keen to get it right with any adjustments, I realllllllllllly need this plant to finish strong, I'd estimate she has cost upwards of $600 to get to this point and she needs to deliver tasty meds for the next few months if possible, I'm doing nightly prayers to the cannabis gods
@InTheShed Sorry mate I know you've spent a lot of time on this already but could you confirm this for me please mate? Or is your advice still to wait another week before adjusting again? I have additional Sulphate arriving tomorow so I can adjust Tri-Part ratios but I also have the K booster available if that helps get the ratios right easier.
Should I just add in 1.3ml/L of the potassium solution and good to go? Will that not be too strong on the EC or no worries?
Thank you in advance
Thank you very much @farside05 - I'll add it to the regime as soon as it arrives.You can start the Potassium Sulfate as soon as it's in your hands with no detrimental effect. If you stick with Shed's calculations and just add the Potassium Sulfate, you'll have 29ppm of P which is perfectly fine. I target 30ppm for my girls at full maturity. As an experiment to see exactly how little P cannabis needs, I grew a plant for 180 days with only 18ppm of P. It never showed any P deficiency even at that low level.
I say that because the majority of nute companies have excess P and I assume lots of people use them without too many issues?
Very interesting, that makes a lot of sense. You've clearly done a lot of work on the subject, thanks for sharing the knowledgeI do a comparison of different nute companies and what their products come out to on a ppm basis OVER HERE. I see excessive P issues most commonly with Fox Farms. You can see in the link previously mentioned that they use way more P than any other product line. Is it a coincidence that they also recommend flushing several times a grow? I say no, and the reason is to rinse away all the unused P.
Thats a stocky little beast lolYou can start the Potassium Sulfate as soon as it's in your hands with no detrimental effect. If you stick with Shed's calculations and just add the Potassium Sulfate, you'll have 29ppm of P which is perfectly fine. I target 30ppm for my girls at full maturity. As an experiment to see exactly how little P cannabis needs, I grew a plant for 180 days with only 18ppm of P. It never showed any P deficiency even at that low level.
No problem. I'll get you new numbers with the potassium sulfate included.Sorry mate I know you've spent a lot of time on this already but could you confirm this for me please mate?