Some instanpots have sous vide and will hold 104 f for long periods.
Keffka's Stonington Soil, Bag Seed, 2022 Setup Indoor Grow
- Thread starter Keffka
- Start date
I wonder if the yogurt function would work? I'm not sure what temp it gets to, I haven't looked into it or used that function yet.
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- #163
I have a crockpot that allegedly has been involved in the DMT extraction process that holds 104 perfect. Found it at a thrift store for 2 bucks, medium setting. Sometimes I wonder if there’s an engineer behind some of these products that can foresee the potential uses and helps us out lol.
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- #164
She woke up this morning powerful and ready to grow. I haven’t seen a response like this since she was outside. She measures in at 19 inches currently.
Interesting!
She sure looks like she's feeling fine!She woke up this morning powerful and ready to grow. I haven’t seen a response like this since she was outside. She measures in at 19 inches currently.
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- #166
I wouldn’t kick her out of bed for leaving crumbs
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- #167
I haven’t yet figured out what makes the lighting different in my pictures, why some have a tint to them and others don’t.
Pics are a weakness of mine.
I never figured it out with my pics, especially indoors.
Right now the pics of one of my plants are slightly blue, while the others are fine. I'm thinking of switching to a real camera instead of my phone, see if that fixes it.
Maybe it's the white balance?
Right now the pics of one of my plants are slightly blue, while the others are fine. I'm thinking of switching to a real camera instead of my phone, see if that fixes it.
Maybe it's the white balance?
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- #170
Her water consumption seems to have evened out.. I am anticipating it picking up but currently she gets around a gallon every 4 days and seems to be responding very well to it, shout out to @StoneOtter for that tip. She has taken about 150 ml more each time and is flying through it. There’s a clear pattern from wet to dry. The fish bone meal has a lot of calcium so I’m weary about putting more calmag in my water so I’ll be watching closely.
I have dialed in the VPD after Convos with @Gee64 which can be seen in previous pages. It has become a major priority for me so I am also looking at better long term solutions for RH. This 1.5 L humidifier isn’t going to cut it, and having to refill it upwards of 3 times in a day is unrealistic for very long.
I am also considering better monitoring capabilities.. I have what I need, but It’s not what I want if that makes sense lol. I can measure everything, it’s just very laborious and time consuming.
I have dialed in the VPD after Convos with @Gee64 which can be seen in previous pages. It has become a major priority for me so I am also looking at better long term solutions for RH. This 1.5 L humidifier isn’t going to cut it, and having to refill it upwards of 3 times in a day is unrealistic for very long.
I am also considering better monitoring capabilities.. I have what I need, but It’s not what I want if that makes sense lol. I can measure everything, it’s just very laborious and time consuming.
She's responding well! In a while the watering will be more often. A ~few more weeks and I wouldn't doubt every other day she'll demand water to keep the growth up.
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- #172
Perhaps.. I have in iPhone and I know that it does a lot of background customization when I’m aiming it at stuff, zooming in and out, flashing different lighting. So maybe some sort of algorithm to determine the best balance for clarity?
I made a terrible discovery last night. I had to grab something out of the area my grow room is in and I saw a glow in the room. I peaked my head in and realized one of my surge protectors has an orange light, and green light. The other one has a blue light and red lights, the heater has an orange light, and the small fan has a blue light. It was all nice and shiny since it’s pitch black otherwise in there so I hurriedly taped black gorilla tape over all the not green lights. I really hope it’ll be ok since it was only the first 2 days but we’ll see.
She should be fine. If it were enough light to cause a problem it would probably just slow down her transition to flower. 2 days into flip she's just starting to stretch.
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- #174
Seeing my plants happy makes me happy.. It’s an intriguing connection. Here’s the VPD chart I’m using.. I’ve found that there seems to be some variation in what is considered optimal VPD conditions for cannabis growth.. This chart seemed to be one of the more robust ones that my plants are responding to so I think I’ll stick with it unless anyone has an objecting opinion.
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- #175
Awesome.. I figured it should be ok since I haven’t seen many warnings about it and it’s still the intro to flower but might as well mitigate the risk. Congrats on MOTM and GJOM that’s awesome!
Thanks!
Delps8
Well-Known Member
VPD drives how quickly and/or easily plants can transpire which, in turn, has a huge impact on plant health. This is a good start for info on VPD.
Re. nutes and nute burn, etc. A primer on plant nutrition would be informative. The chemicals that we refer to as "nutrients" are fertilizer but that's an ugly word so companies that sell fertilizer put pretty pictures on the bottles and call them "nutrients". They're sold as "nutrients" so we think of them as being food - that's the power of marketing.
Light is "food" in that it drives photosynthesis which then creates glucose and oxygen. Glucose is metabolized by the cells in the plants. Chemicals from the fertilizer ("nutrients") are part of all processes in a plant, as they are in humans but they're not food.
If your VPD is high, plants transpire more which means water uptake increases. As water uptake increases, the amount of chemicals from the ferts will increase. If the fertilizer concentration doesn't drop then you will tend to get nutrient burn because the concentration of chemicals is too high. "inefficient" could be used to describe it but nutrients are best described as "insufficient, sufficient, or excess". The goal given plants fertilizer is to provide a sufficient amount of chemicals for the plant to absorb so that it can reach its genetic potential. Adding too much fertilizer is called "excess" and excess levels of nutrients don't "make" a plant do anything - it wastes money and will damage or kill plant cells.
VPD is a function of ambient temperature, leaf surface temperature, and RH. Just as with humans, if RH is really high, we can't sweat ("transpire") as easily and it feels "muggy". If we can't sweat, we can't cool off and that can lead to problems. That's the condition of VPD being low because the water pressure in the air isn't very different from the water pressure in the plant//in the human. That's a low VPD which is great for seedlings.
Head out to Arizona in July and it's hot and dry so humans need to sweat a lot to bring down our temperature. It's the same for plants. If temperature goes up and RH is down that means there's very little moisture in the air but we're a bag of water so the water pressure in out body is high. That means there's a big difference in vapor pressure so we will sweat a lot. Same with a plant. For cannabis growers, that means we need to watch out EC if VPD is high. Better yet, get VPD back to 1.0 (veg) or 1.2-1.4 for flower and the plants will be a lot happier.
I use the PulseOne to monitor VPD and do my best to keep it in range. For seedlings, VPD should be 0.8, for veg 1.0 then up to 1.4 for flower.
I've included the graph from my PulseOne for the past 12 hours. Lights out at 12 AM so temperature (in red) drops. RH went up from 66% to 69% (cooler air can hold more moisture) and that caused VPD to fall to 0.8 (seedling level). That's not that big a deal since it was lights out but I'd prefer that it stays at 1.0.
Lights on at 0400. Temperature increases from 76° to 80°, RH drops (warmer air doesn't hold as much moisture) then RH gradually rises. VPD stays between 0.93 and 1.05 for the rest of the AM. Happy plant.
Per the work done by Chandra, the max photosynthesis rate for cannabis occurs at 86°. Google "Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO2 conditions" and you'll find the "Chandra paper". It's a good read.
I've posted a graph from that paper that shows the differing rates of photosynthesis under different temperatures and under different levels of light.
Mikedin
Well-Known Member
I’m at 1.01 currently half the plants in veg, half in pre flower once all move into preflower I’ll lower the RH down to about 45 and it’ll bring me up to about 1.10, twords the end I’ll bring down the RH to about 40 and that should put me right at 1.30-1.35VPD drives how quickly and/or easily plants can transpire which, in turn, has a huge impact on plant health. This is a good start for info on VPD.
Re. nutes and nute burn, etc. A primer on plant nutrition would be informative. The chemicals that we refer to as "nutrients" are fertilizer but that's an ugly word so companies that sell fertilizer put pretty pictures on the bottles and call them "nutrients". They're sold as "nutrients" so we think of them as being food - that's the power of marketing.
Light is "food" in that it drives photosynthesis which then creates glucose and oxygen. Glucose is metabolized by the cells in the plants. Chemicals from the fertilizer ("nutrients") are part of all processes in a plant, as they are in humans but they're not food.
If your VPD is high, plants transpire more which means water uptake increases. As water uptake increases, the amount of chemicals from the ferts will increase. If the fertilizer concentration doesn't drop then you will tend to get nutrient burn because the concentration of chemicals is too high. "inefficient" could be used to describe it but nutrients are best described as "insufficient, sufficient, or excess". The goal given plants fertilizer is to provide a sufficient amount of chemicals for the plant to absorb so that it can reach its genetic potential. Adding too much fertilizer is called "excess" and excess levels of nutrients don't "make" a plant do anything - it wastes money and will damage or kill plant cells.
VPD is a function of ambient temperature, leaf surface temperature, and RH. Just as with humans, if RH is really high, we can't sweat ("transpire") as easily and it feels "muggy". If we can't sweat, we can't cool off and that can lead to problems. That's the condition of VPD being low because the water pressure in the air isn't very different from the water pressure in the plant//in the human. That's a low VPD which is great for seedlings.
Head out to Arizona in July and it's hot and dry so humans need to sweat a lot to bring down our temperature. It's the same for plants. If temperature goes up and RH is down that means there's very little moisture in the air but we're a bag of water so the water pressure in out body is high. That means there's a big difference in vapor pressure so we will sweat a lot. Same with a plant. For cannabis growers, that means we need to watch out EC if VPD is high. Better yet, get VPD back to 1.0 (veg) or 1.2-1.4 for flower and the plants will be a lot happier.
I use the PulseOne to monitor VPD and do my best to keep it in range. For seedlings, VPD should be 0.8, for veg 1.0 then up to 1.4 for flower.
I've included the graph from my PulseOne for the past 12 hours. Lights out at 12 AM so temperature (in red) drops. RH went up from 66% to 69% (cooler air can hold more moisture) and that caused VPD to fall to 0.8 (seedling level). That's not that big a deal since it was lights out but I'd prefer that it stays at 1.0.
Lights on at 0400. Temperature increases from 76° to 80°, RH drops (warmer air doesn't hold as much moisture) then RH gradually rises. VPD stays between 0.93 and 1.05 for the rest of the AM. Happy plant.
Per the work done by Chandra, the max photosynthesis rate for cannabis occurs at 86°. Google "Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO2 conditions" and you'll find the "Chandra paper". It's a good read.
I've posted a graph from that paper that shows the differing rates of photosynthesis under different temperatures and under different levels of light.
Also what is your DLI? I checked last night and at 19/5 schedule I’m between 39 - 43 DLI depending on plant height (glad I did the LST lol canopy is mostly within 3-4” or each other
Also checked PPFD for red/blue and I’m at 1340 PPFD (full spectrum is an average of 640 PPFD) I’m still running about 70% power and lights are at 22”, at this point I could lower the lights 2” and pick up about 100-150 PPFD without increasing power, I may do that though as it would increase leaf temp at least a degree, but would bring my kPa to about 1.21 I’m at 77f leaf temp last time I checked (had to borrow a temp gun lol)
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Keffka what is the RH in your area most of the time?
Gee64
Well-Known Member
You got it backwards. Warm air holds more moisture not less, thats why the RH drops. There is more room in the air so the moisture can spread out causing rh to drop. Its important you dont get it backwards. If you warm the air the plant will rev faster because with more room to hold more moisture the air in the room sucks the moisture out of the plant faster. That revs the plant. If you cool the room there is less room in the air to hold moisture as the water vapors move closer together and its harder for the plant to push the cooler harder air so the plant slows down. This is all based on the belief your plant is healthy so the leaves naturally stay 2 degrees cooler than the air.VPD drives how quickly and/or easily plants can transpire which, in turn, has a huge impact on plant health. This is a good start for info on VPD.
Re. nutes and nute burn, etc. A primer on plant nutrition would be informative. The chemicals that we refer to as "nutrients" are fertilizer but that's an ugly word so companies that sell fertilizer put pretty pictures on the bottles and call them "nutrients". They're sold as "nutrients" so we think of them as being food - that's the power of marketing.
Light is "food" in that it drives photosynthesis which then creates glucose and oxygen. Glucose is metabolized by the cells in the plants. Chemicals from the fertilizer ("nutrients") are part of all processes in a plant, as they are in humans but they're not food.
If your VPD is high, plants transpire more which means water uptake increases. As water uptake increases, the amount of chemicals from the ferts will increase. If the fertilizer concentration doesn't drop then you will tend to get nutrient burn because the concentration of chemicals is too high. "inefficient" could be used to describe it but nutrients are best described as "insufficient, sufficient, or excess". The goal given plants fertilizer is to provide a sufficient amount of chemicals for the plant to absorb so that it can reach its genetic potential. Adding too much fertilizer is called "excess" and excess levels of nutrients don't "make" a plant do anything - it wastes money and will damage or kill plant cells.
VPD is a function of ambient temperature, leaf surface temperature, and RH. Just as with humans, if RH is really high, we can't sweat ("transpire") as easily and it feels "muggy". If we can't sweat, we can't cool off and that can lead to problems. That's the condition of VPD being low because the water pressure in the air isn't very different from the water pressure in the plant//in the human. That's a low VPD which is great for seedlings.
Head out to Arizona in July and it's hot and dry so humans need to sweat a lot to bring down our temperature. It's the same for plants. If temperature goes up and RH is down that means there's very little moisture in the air but we're a bag of water so the water pressure in out body is high. That means there's a big difference in vapor pressure so we will sweat a lot. Same with a plant. For cannabis growers, that means we need to watch out EC if VPD is high. Better yet, get VPD back to 1.0 (veg) or 1.2-1.4 for flower and the plants will be a lot happier.
I use the PulseOne to monitor VPD and do my best to keep it in range. For seedlings, VPD should be 0.8, for veg 1.0 then up to 1.4 for flower.
I've included the graph from my PulseOne for the past 12 hours. Lights out at 12 AM so temperature (in red) drops. RH went up from 66% to 69% (cooler air can hold more moisture) and that caused VPD to fall to 0.8 (seedling level). That's not that big a deal since it was lights out but I'd prefer that it stays at 1.0.
Lights on at 0400. Temperature increases from 76° to 80°, RH drops (warmer air doesn't hold as much moisture) then RH gradually rises. VPD stays between 0.93 and 1.05 for the rest of the AM. Happy plant.
Per the work done by Chandra, the max photosynthesis rate for cannabis occurs at 86°. Google "Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO2 conditions" and you'll find the "Chandra paper". It's a good read.
I've posted a graph from that paper that shows the differing rates of photosynthesis under different temperatures and under different levels of light.
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