Keffka's Stonington Soil, Bag Seed, 2022 Setup Indoor Grow

if vpd makes your plant run too fast for the stage its at the plant reacts by looking like its starving because it is, regardless of how much nutes are in the soil. Its because the plant is photosynthesizing faster than the rootball can supply nutes, so if you run your plant too fast for the size of its rootball it is starving. All the dead leaves you encountered were the plant eating its batteries to survive because it was burning calories faster than the roots could supply them. the big led light over drove the plant. An ir thermometer is key. It would have told you to raise the light. The serrated leaves are caused by too low of humidity which forces vpd values up and over the redline. Its not really from low humidity, its from unbalanced vpd at a lower humidity. Raising the light to lower leaf temp or raising the room temp to greaten the temp difference between room and leaf temps will both bring vpd into the sweet zone without moving humidity. The chlorosis in the leaves could be nutes,vpd,ph,or cold temps. Bringing your plant indoors will certainly be a shock too. But unless you know your vpd is in the right spot, and you dont without the thermometer, you are just throwing darts at a board hoping you hit the answer. Then you will have to decipher all the manfacturers recomendations on light heights. I have a monster led. Its recomended never get closer than 24" and i have tried. At 21 inches the leaves get stressed in all directions. I have dialed in my vpd and now my plants are 6 inches from the light photosynthesizing at rates I have never seen before. I grow Durban Poison with a 10 week flower time. With vpd dialed in at 5 weeks my buds are bigger than i have ever achieved at 10 weeks, and i have had some really nice crops. All i do is add RO water and topdress with a bit of guano 2 or 3 times in flower. Please try it and be patient. you will be happy. Regardless of all i have said dont flower yet, your plants arent healthy yet. they arent producing enough sugar. You need fish fertilizer at a low rate. 1.5ml per litre to grow the roots. Every 2nd watering. I would guess your chlorosis is actually from overwatering. Water allows the plant to drink but it also cuts off oxygen. On a chemical level anything that doesnt have an oxygen molecule attached wont be recognized as food in a human or a vegetable so overwatering means lack of oxygen which causes starvation again. If you fix vpd and get the watering correct then starvation and chlorosis can only be either not enough food in the pot or bad ph. bad ph causes starvation too. Bad vpd can mimick almost anything but your 4 main problems are bugs,starvation,chlorosis, and serrated leaves. It could just be a coincidence that bad vpd causes all 4. I know you dont want to sound argumentative lol. i have been there. thats why i mentioned that everything you have learned previously may feel jeopardized. trust me its not. All you have learned is truly valuable. fix your vpd and then if a problem still exists you already know enough to fix it. If its not vpd the odds say its overwatering. Its almost never ph in organics and in veg its hard to run out of soil nutrition. Lets keep talking. I dont care if im right or wrong as they are your plants and you are the guy right there in the room with them i only see pics. I just want your grow to be fantastic. Calcium is another really deep topic but again i was lucky enough to have it explained so once your girls are thriving and all the cal/mag info on the internet gets your head spinning i can share what i have been fortunate enough to have been educated on about calcium. Im not challenging your knowledge. True knowledge on growing organically is really hard to find. I stumbled upon a true guru. I got lucky.
 
@Gee64 what did you think of the Hemmy Black? I visited the beginning of your journal.
 
i really liked it. I forgot about that old journal. Life threw some curveballs. Hemmy was great. One pheno was pure black which was really cool but not the greatest smoke. All others were green phenos that were really nice. A bit on the low yielding side and probably only 10-12% thc I would guess but easy and fun to grow. I wish I had cut a clone of the black pheno.
 
Gee64 said:
I actually have a couple pics of the Hemmy Black if you guys want to see it and if its OK with Keffka that I post them in his journal. Black weed is odd to say the least. The calyxes were green but every leaf, even the sugar trim was pure black.
Click to expand...
I do. I asked because I grew some of KOS Red Sky and a few others that I found very nice. Black poison skunk was another outstanding one! Stench made me wretch growing her and she's the most delicate and tasty floral flavor now. All black huh?
 
I’m running stonington blend for my autos 5 gallon fabric pots, I still amended though, coast of Maine eartheworm castings, vermiculite, perlite, 1/2 dose FF jump start And 1/4 dose of fruit and flower, also added more great white shark myco, coast of Maine lobster/ kelp / earthworm castings organic growers blend, We’ll see how it does, I’m about a month in now, just top dressed with the castings, the fruit and flower, and coast of Maine kelp/lobster/castings blend, I’m kinda using this run as a beginning point for this soil, once the run is complete I’ll dump it all into a Rubbermaid, re-amend, maybe add some fresh stonington, wait about 2 weeks and then replant in it

I’m also testing with a FF strawberry fields blend to see how they match up, last run I did all force farms happy frog

Interested to see how the soil keeps up for you as far as breeding to add neuts/top dress
 
Gee64 said:
I actually have a couple pics of the Hemmy Black if you guys want to see it and if its OK with Keffka that I post them in his journal. Black weed is odd to say the least. The calyxes were green but every leaf, even the sugar trim was pure black.
Click to expand...
I haven’t had a chance to read everything else but yes by all means, feel free to post whatever you like here. This is a personal journal with no sponsors or agenda so all are welcome to post as long as it’s somewhat relevant to the conversation(s).
 
Mikedin said:
I’m running stonington blend for my autos 5 gallon fabric pots, I still amended though, coast of Maine eartheworm castings, vermiculite, perlite, 1/2 dose FF jump start And 1/4 dose of fruit and flower, also added more great white shark myco, coast of Maine lobster/ kelp / earthworm castings organic growers blend, We’ll see how it does, I’m about a month in now, just top dressed with the castings, the fruit and flower, and coast of Maine kelp/lobster/castings blend, I’m kinda using this run as a beginning point for this soil, once the run is complete I’ll dump it all into a Rubbermaid, re-amend, maybe add some fresh stonington, wait about 2 weeks and then replant in it

I’m also testing with a FF strawberry fields blend to see how they match up, last run I did all force farms happy frog

Interested to see how the soil keeps up for you as far as breeding to add neuts/top dress
Click to expand...
Awesome! Welcome to my journal and thanks for posting in detail about your grow. I’m interested in seeing how it turns out for you, everything I’ve read about it in regards to autos tells me you should be pleased, especially with your amendments. I should’ve amended myself but already had enough on my plate. I’ll also be attempting to reuse the soil afterwards myself with a few amendments, which I’ll cover more when I get to that point.

I have actively avoided using anything other than dry, organic fertilizers (Stonington plant food, Stonington fish bone meal). I have added calmag to the water out of necessity but will come up with a long term solution after this grow. My timing was off on my first fertilization but I nailed the second one and am hoping the same for the next 2. I am learning as I go how to do things organically, and with the least amount of intervention possible, I’m enjoying it, it makes such perfect sense reading about it.

I try to document as much as I can for reference, and have stuck with just coast of maine products (except calmag) for this grow so I should have a much better handle on its system by the next grow.

I just looked at your journal, you’re the person that cut the lights, I’ll be subbing in for sure to watch how it plays out for you. I love DIY and anything I can do to customize something to my space I will.
 
Here are a couple pics of the Hemmy Black. A flash in the dark greatly enhances the dramaticness of the black but it really was that black. The flash actually doesnt change the black but it really makes the green jump out which makes the black more striking.

Screenshot_20220929-180647_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220929-180449_Gallery.jpg
 
See the brown tips? I made the tea too strong for where the vpd speed was at and i couldn't photosynthesize quick enough to use all the nutes so it showed up in the leaf tips. I overfed them for the speed they were running at and stressed them. Left a scar. Sorry Hemmy. I try not to use teas now unless my plant eats more than my pot has in it, like in the last week of flower sometimes when I am tinkering. When you transplant to a bigger pot with better soil brown tips are fairly common until the plant dials itself into the stronger soil.
 
Gee64 said:
if vpd makes your plant run too fast for the stage its at the plant reacts by looking like its starving because it is, regardless of how much nutes are in the soil. Its because the plant is photosynthesizing faster than the rootball can supply nutes, so if you run your plant too fast for the size of its rootball it is starving. All the dead leaves you encountered were the plant eating its batteries to survive because it was burning calories faster than the roots could supply them. the big led light over drove the plant. An ir thermometer is key. It would have told you to raise the light. The serrated leaves are caused by too low of humidity which forces vpd values up and over the redline. Its not really from low humidity, its from unbalanced vpd at a lower humidity. Raising the light to lower leaf temp or raising the room temp to greaten the temp difference between room and leaf temps will both bring vpd into the sweet zone without moving humidity. The chlorosis in the leaves could be nutes,vpd,ph,or cold temps. Bringing your plant indoors will certainly be a shock too. But unless you know your vpd is in the right spot, and you dont without the thermometer, you are just throwing darts at a board hoping you hit the answer. Then you will have to decipher all the manfacturers recomendations on light heights. I have a monster led. Its recomended never get closer than 24" and i have tried. At 21 inches the leaves get stressed in all directions. I have dialed in my vpd and now my plants are 6 inches from the light photosynthesizing at rates I have never seen before. I grow Durban Poison with a 10 week flower time. With vpd dialed in at 5 weeks my buds are bigger than i have ever achieved at 10 weeks, and i have had some really nice crops. All i do is add RO water and topdress with a bit of guano 2 or 3 times in flower. Please try it and be patient. you will be happy. Regardless of all i have said dont flower yet, your plants arent healthy yet. they arent producing enough sugar. You need fish fertilizer at a low rate. 1.5ml per litre to grow the roots. Every 2nd watering. I would guess your chlorosis is actually from overwatering. Water allows the plant to drink but it also cuts off oxygen. On a chemical level anything that doesnt have an oxygen molecule attached wont be recognized as food in a human or a vegetable so overwatering means lack of oxygen which causes starvation again. If you fix vpd and get the watering correct then starvation and chlorosis can only be either not enough food in the pot or bad ph. bad ph causes starvation too. Bad vpd can mimick almost anything but your 4 main problems are bugs,starvation,chlorosis, and serrated leaves. It could just be a coincidence that bad vpd causes all 4. I know you dont want to sound argumentative lol. i have been there. thats why i mentioned that everything you have learned previously may feel jeopardized. trust me its not. All you have learned is truly valuable. fix your vpd and then if a problem still exists you already know enough to fix it. If its not vpd the odds say its overwatering. Its almost never ph in organics and in veg its hard to run out of soil nutrition. Lets keep talking. I dont care if im right or wrong as they are your plants and you are the guy right there in the room with them i only see pics. I just want your grow to be fantastic. Calcium is another really deep topic but again i was lucky enough to have it explained so once your girls are thriving and all the cal/mag info on the internet gets your head spinning i can share what i have been fortunate enough to have been educated on about calcium. Im not challenging your knowledge. True knowledge on growing organically is really hard to find. I stumbled upon a true guru. I got lucky.
Click to expand...
Ok so if I understand this correctly, what you’re saying is, if my VPD is off, it’s going to force the plant to work harder, inefficiently, and when it does this, it throws the balance of everything off, which in turn drives all of the issues I’m having.

Does the plant lose access to the nutrients or does it burn them off inefficiently? I ask because the chlorosis of the leaves and the purpling of the stems stopped once I added calmag to my water. I made no other changes. However, it seems like it’s being given just enough to prevent an issue and could use more. Is it being locked out due to VPD or is VPD causing it to use the nutrients inefficiently?

Also, why is VPD so critical indoors? If I were growing outdoors I wouldn’t think twice about VPD.. Is it the light source? What is the driving force behind its importance indoors?
 
Keffka said:
Awesome! Welcome to my journal and thanks for posting in detail about your grow. I’m interested in seeing how it turns out for you, everything I’ve read about it in regards to autos tells me you should be pleased, especially with your amendments. I should’ve amended myself but already had enough on my plate. I’ll also be attempting to reuse the soil afterwards myself with a few amendments, which I’ll cover more when I get to that point.

I have actively avoided using anything other than dry, organic fertilizers (Stonington plant food, Stonington fish bone meal). I have added calmag to the water out of necessity but will come up with a long term solution after this grow. My timing was off on my first fertilization but I nailed the second one and am hoping the same for the next 2. I am learning as I go how to do things organically, and with the least amount of intervention possible, I’m enjoying it, it makes such perfect sense reading about it.

I try to document as much as I can for reference, and have stuck with just coast of maine products (except calmag) for this grow so I should have a much better handle on its system by the next grow.

I just looked at your journal, you’re the person that cut the lights, I’ll be subbing in for sure to watch how it plays out for you. I love DIY and anything I can do to customize something to my space I will.
Click to expand...
The CoM organic plant food (the kelp, lobster, EWC blend) actually has Cal and Mag in it which is why I added it, I have liquid cal-mag but I’m trying to only use the dry amendments if needed all my liquids neuts are fox farms, mostly organic a few aren’t, but my plan is to not use any of them if I can get away with it

This is the one I’m using also stonington blend as well lol I’m surprised it was only $17 in the store, but Amazon seems to be more expensive for soils and neuts/amendments than brick and mortars

A84915A0-9000-463F-A025-C9C44F9FEA2A.png
 
Keffka said:
Ok so if I understand this correctly, what you’re saying is, if my VPD is off, it’s going to force the plant to work harder, inefficiently, and when it does this, it throws the balance of everything off, which in turn drives all of the issues I’m having.

Does the plant lose access to the nutrients or does it burn them off inefficiently? I ask because the chlorosis of the leaves and the purpling of the stems stopped once I added calmag to my water. I made no other changes. However, it seems like it’s being given just enough to prevent an issue and could use more. Is it being locked out due to VPD or is VPD causing it to use the nutrients inefficiently?

Also, why is VPD so critical indoors? If I were growing outdoors I wouldn’t think twice about VPD.. Is it the light source? What is the driving force behind its importance indoors?
Click to expand...
I will start with why vpd is critical indoors. Outdoors Mother Nature provides the VPD. We get what we get from her which kind of sucks but she is a bit better at this than we are. She gives us Spring like conditions in the spring, Summer like conditions in the Summer, and fall like conditions in the Fall. Those conditions if they are the typical conditions we expect in our minds, what we consider normal for the time of year, is condusive to growing vegetables with natural seasonal vpd. The plant can run harder on cooler days and slower on muggier days, adjust everything on cloudy days as long as Mother Natures VPD is generally in the ballpark, and we get seedling season,veg season, and flower season. Does that make sense about outdoors? Now indoors we finally get to hack Mother Nature. We could build our own soil or not, choose our own lights to replace the sun, use any kind of water we want, and thats all cool stuff but at the end of the day it doesnt matter really how you built your soil or what light you chose as long as the soil is adequate (healthy) and the light has more light than the plant will ever need just like the sun. Once you have those 2 solidified, as we all do, then you do best with the water that complements your soil balance which is pretty easy, as you built your soil so you know it. So to clarify, at this point we have great soil,great water,and great light. The only thing missing is great environment. Outdoors in a typical season is a great environment,give or take, most of the time. Indoors this is the only place we can do better than Mother Nature. When dialed in properly there are no bad days, only perfect days, and the perfect days bend through the seasons to stay perfectly dialed every day for whats best for your plant every single day of its life and it flexes its perfectedness on a daily basis to stay right with your plants exact needs all for one purpose, to produce the maximum amount of sugars to do the maximum amount of bribing to get the exact nutrients it needs exactly when it needs them to constantly have a rootball that can constantly supply more food than the plant can ever use. Once the plant realizes this( gets established) it says to itself "I am so rich and so healthy I can step a step closer to the sun and speed the process up to get even more sugar to grow my empire. It does, uses it to enlarge the rootball even more, to enlarge the plant even more, to use it all to take another step towards the sun to do it again. No matter how you grow this is what your plant is doing so why not grow in a manner that gets you the closest to the sun for flower season? Once flower begins that giant rootball needs to really up production so vpd stays doing its thing which is running the pump full tilt but stretch is over so getting closer to the sun cant happen anymore. You just keep running as fast as you can with the health you have to stop growing and start flowering. Remember my earlier part about a healthy plant is a plant that can produce enough sugar to create an adequate supply of good food and be able to turn a profit? Well in flower now you need minerals. Minerals break down slower so they are harder to get.He who gets the most minerals wins. The plant now needs to feed sugars to microbes that have minerals for trade and those microbes need to work for a really long time to get a small amount of minerals and the plant has to feed them while they mine the minerals. The healthier the plant the more sugar it has. The more sugar it has the more minerals it gets in flower. The more minerals in flower the bigger the buds and through that process its brix level goes above 12 and now its sugars are toxic to pests. Sorry no short explanation. Chlorosis is another topic but mostly its overwatering leading to suffocation which looks like stress(purple) and starvation. Vpd can fix this really easy but you need to understand the basic principal of vpd first, then everything you know that should have worked but didn't will be easy to see why. Calcium is a completely different animal and a topic unto itself. I knew you would head to calcium as everyone does so later when I have time I can make it make total sense to hou just as I had it explained to me.Calcium is by a country mile your most important additive. Wrap your head around vpd first and then calcium is easy to understand and you will never use it during a grow again as a rescue tool.
 
Gee64 said:
I will start with why vpd is critical indoors. Outdoors Mother Nature provides the VPD. We get what we get from her which kind of sucks but she is a bit better at this than we are. She gives us Spring like conditions in the spring, Summer like conditions in the Summer, and fall like conditions in the Fall. Those conditions if they are the typical conditions we expect in our minds, what we consider normal for the time of year, is condusive to growing vegetables with natural seasonal vpd. The plant can run harder on cooler days and slower on muggier days, adjust everything on cloudy days as long as Mother Natures VPD is generally in the ballpark, and we get seedling season,veg season, and flower season. Does that make sense about outdoors? Now indoors we finally get to hack Mother Nature. We could build our own soil or not, choose our own lights to replace the sun, use any kind of water we want, and thats all cool stuff but at the end of the day it doesnt matter really how you built your soil or what light you chose as long as the soil is adequate (healthy) and the light has more light than the plant will ever need just like the sun. Once you have those 2 solidified, as we all do, then you do best with the water that complements your soil balance which is pretty easy, as you built your soil so you know it. So to clarify, at this point we have great soil,great water,and great light. The only thing missing is great environment. Outdoors in a typical season is a great environment,give or take, most of the time. Indoors this is the only place we can do better than Mother Nature. When dialed in properly there are no bad days, only perfect days, and the perfect days bend through the seasons to stay perfectly dialed every day for whats best for your plant every single day of its life and it flexes its perfectedness on a daily basis to stay right with your plants exact needs all for one purpose, to produce the maximum amount of sugars to do the maximum amount of bribing to get the exact nutrients it needs exactly when it needs them to constantly have a rootball that can constantly supply more food than the plant can ever use. Once the plant realizes this( gets established) it says to itself "I am so rich and so healthy I can step a step closer to the sun and speed the process up to get even more sugar to grow my empire. It does, uses it to enlarge the rootball even more, to enlarge the plant even more, to use it all to take another step towards the sun to do it again. No matter how you grow this is what your plant is doing so why not grow in a manner that gets you the closest to the sun for flower season? Once flower begins that giant rootball needs to really up production so vpd stays doing its thing which is running the pump full tilt but stretch is over so getting closer to the sun cant happen anymore. You just keep running as fast as you can with the health you have to stop growing and start flowering. Remember my earlier part about a healthy plant is a plant that can produce enough sugar to create an adequate supply of good food and be able to turn a profit? Well in flower now you need minerals. Minerals break down slower so they are harder to get.He who gets the most minerals wins. The plant now needs to feed sugars to microbes that have minerals for trade and those microbes need to work for a really long time to get a small amount of minerals and the plant has to feed them while they mine the minerals. The healthier the plant the more sugar it has. The more sugar it has the more minerals it gets in flower. The more minerals in flower the bigger the buds and through that process its brix level goes above 12 and now its sugars are toxic to pests. Sorry no short explanation. Chlorosis is another topic but mostly its overwatering leading to suffocation which looks like stress(purple) and starvation. Vpd can fix this really easy but you need to understand the basic principal of vpd first, then everything you know that should have worked but didn't will be easy to see why. Calcium is a completely different animal and a topic unto itself. I knew you would head to calcium as everyone does so later when I have time I can make it make total sense to hou just as I had it explained to me.Calcium is by a country mile your most important additive. Wrap your head around vpd first and then calcium is easy to understand and you will never use it during a grow again as a rescue tool.
Click to expand...
Before I dig into this I’d just like to compliment you real quick. You’re very patient. You’re also quite talented at explaining things and details in a way that makes it very easy to visualize and comprehend. Now I’ve gotta reread everything you’ve written again a few more times to really get it to settle in, I’m right on the edge of understanding lol.
 
Mikedin said:
The CoM organic plant food (the kelp, lobster, EWC blend) actually has Cal and Mag in it which is why I added it, I have liquid cal-mag but I’m trying to only use the dry amendments if needed all my liquids neuts are fox farms, mostly organic a few aren’t, but my plan is to not use any of them if I can get away with it

This is the one I’m using also stonington blend as well lol I’m surprised it was only $17 in the store, but Amazon seems to be more expensive for soils and neuts/amendments than brick and mortars

A84915A0-9000-463F-A025-C9C44F9FEA2A.png
Click to expand...
Yep.. I mistimed my first fertilization so I was stuck playing catch-up, and because the time it takes to break it down I couldn’t wait. I made quite a few measurement mistakes in the beginning and wasn’t paying close enough attention to some stuff.. all user error type stuff lol.

Also, yes, I’ve found brick and mortar stores to be noticeably cheaper for CoM stuff.. Enough of a difference that it doesn’t make sense to use Amazon. It also gets cheaper if you buy in bulk.. I wasn’t willing to spend that much off the bat though without knowing the quality of the products.
 
Gee64 said:
Here are a couple pics of the Hemmy Black. A flash in the dark greatly enhances the dramaticness of the black but it really was that black. The flash actually doesnt change the black but it really makes the green jump out which makes the black more striking.

Screenshot_20220929-180647_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220929-180449_Gallery.jpg
Click to expand...
Yeah that's a sweet look!
 
Gee64 said:
I will start with why vpd is critical indoors. Outdoors Mother Nature provides the VPD. We get what we get from her which kind of sucks but she is a bit better at this than we are. She gives us Spring like conditions in the spring, Summer like conditions in the Summer, and fall like conditions in the Fall. Those conditions if they are the typical conditions we expect in our minds, what we consider normal for the time of year, is condusive to growing vegetables with natural seasonal vpd. The plant can run harder on cooler days and slower on muggier days, adjust everything on cloudy days as long as Mother Natures VPD is generally in the ballpark, and we get seedling season,veg season, and flower season. Does that make sense about outdoors? Now indoors we finally get to hack Mother Nature. We could build our own soil or not, choose our own lights to replace the sun, use any kind of water we want, and thats all cool stuff but at the end of the day it doesnt matter really how you built your soil or what light you chose as long as the soil is adequate (healthy) and the light has more light than the plant will ever need just like the sun. Once you have those 2 solidified, as we all do, then you do best with the water that complements your soil balance which is pretty easy, as you built your soil so you know it. So to clarify, at this point we have great soil,great water,and great light. The only thing missing is great environment. Outdoors in a typical season is a great environment,give or take, most of the time. Indoors this is the only place we can do better than Mother Nature. When dialed in properly there are no bad days, only perfect days, and the perfect days bend through the seasons to stay perfectly dialed every day for whats best for your plant every single day of its life and it flexes its perfectedness on a daily basis to stay right with your plants exact needs all for one purpose, to produce the maximum amount of sugars to do the maximum amount of bribing to get the exact nutrients it needs exactly when it needs them to constantly have a rootball that can constantly supply more food than the plant can ever use. Once the plant realizes this( gets established) it says to itself "I am so rich and so healthy I can step a step closer to the sun and speed the process up to get even more sugar to grow my empire. It does, uses it to enlarge the rootball even more, to enlarge the plant even more, to use it all to take another step towards the sun to do it again. No matter how you grow this is what your plant is doing so why not grow in a manner that gets you the closest to the sun for flower season? Once flower begins that giant rootball needs to really up production so vpd stays doing its thing which is running the pump full tilt but stretch is over so getting closer to the sun cant happen anymore. You just keep running as fast as you can with the health you have to stop growing and start flowering. Remember my earlier part about a healthy plant is a plant that can produce enough sugar to create an adequate supply of good food and be able to turn a profit? Well in flower now you need minerals. Minerals break down slower so they are harder to get.He who gets the most minerals wins. The plant now needs to feed sugars to microbes that have minerals for trade and those microbes need to work for a really long time to get a small amount of minerals and the plant has to feed them while they mine the minerals. The healthier the plant the more sugar it has. The more sugar it has the more minerals it gets in flower. The more minerals in flower the bigger the buds and through that process its brix level goes above 12 and now its sugars are toxic to pests. Sorry no short explanation. Chlorosis is another topic but mostly its overwatering leading to suffocation which looks like stress(purple) and starvation. Vpd can fix this really easy but you need to understand the basic principal of vpd first, then everything you know that should have worked but didn't will be easy to see why. Calcium is a completely different animal and a topic unto itself. I knew you would head to calcium as everyone does so later when I have time I can make it make total sense to hou just as I had it explained to me.Calcium is by a country mile your most important additive. Wrap your head around vpd first and then calcium is easy to understand and you will never use it during a grow again as a rescue tool.
Click to expand...
Excellent explanation, hits basically every talking point I’ve read or head about VPD, I use VPD Chart to keep track of where I am, and make sure I’m within parameters. It’s always the first thing I look at if I notice leaf droop or anything weird
 
Mikedin said:
Excellent explanation, hits basically every talking point I’ve read or head about VPD, I use VPD Chart to keep track of where I am, and make sure I’m within parameters. It’s always the first thing I look at if I notice leaf droop or anything weird
Click to expand...
exactly Mike! Then you adjust either heat, light height, or humidity, and the stress goes away, then you rev it back up.
 
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