Keffka's Recycling, KOS Blue Thai, Herbies Seeds Apple Betty, Runtz Punch

I still don't understand why people on this forum insist on dialing plant health by measuring Brix? In big agriculture it's a measure for a nutrient dense food crop at harvest for investers and not much else?

In field agriculture you're better of doing proper soil and slurry tests to get some real data to work with mineral values. Brix is not a good measure for anything about growing Cannabis. It's only an easy measure for non growers to understand. You can't do much of anything when it comes to adjusting your grow or soil since the data only show total solids?

If you need it to tell you if a plant is healthy or not I think you got other more important things to grasp about growing?

Cheers!
I monitor it only to chart and monitor the plants reaction really. I grow veggies so I apply it there for consumption, but in weed its my main tool to monitor organic grows as I adjust my soil. If brix goes up my soil is better.

Whatever improvements I make to my soil inside over the year goes into my outdoor mix next year in the veggie garden.

For people just starting out in organics it helps them learn quicker.
I've been using lights with IR diodes for a couple of years now, and I'm really not seeing any additional stretch. On the contrary, my plants have had very tight internodal spacing, although that could just be from my tendency to keep the light just far enough to avoid light stress.
I think there's more to the shade avoidance response than just the presence of far red/IR light, and the presence and intensity of other wavelengths might be a limiting factor for it.
I agree. Understanding shade response would probably up your IR understanding. The morning/night thing is intriguing, I'm going to try that one eventually.
 
If a grower wants to pull out different colors from their plant this can be accomplished by ensuring you have about a 15-20 degree difference between lights on and lights off. Which means if you’re running lights on at 85, you should be right at about 68 for lights off. This will pull out those deep purples and reds that so many are after. Personally, I don’t care much for different leaf coloring, it doesn’t add much to the effect or flavor so it’s more cosmetic in my experience, being purple or red just means you had a temperature difference, it’s not a sign of quality.
Some growers deliberately cool their plants late in flower to produce the pretty purple colors. This issue that I have with that is that it could simply be indicating your plant is having trouble uptake P since that capabilityis compromised by cool temps.

That would suggest your plant will not have been maxed out and I always thought it curious as to why one would deliberately induce a deficiency just to see pretty colors which do nothing for your harvest (except potentially reduce it).
 
Some growers deliberately cool their plants late in flower to produce the pretty purple colors. This issue that I have with that is that it could simply be indicating your plant is having trouble uptake P since that capabilityis compromised by cool temps.

That would suggest your plant will not have been maxed out and I always thought it curious as to why one would deliberately induce a deficiency just to see pretty colors which do nothing for your harvest (except potentially reduce it).

In my opinion… Psychology is powerful. If you’re taught something either at an impressionable time, or something that confirms your already held belief, it’s very easy to believe you’re doing the right thing. Especially if you lack self awareness and humility. My MIL firmly believes colors make a quantifiable difference and no amount of science will sway her. She just so happens to lack self awareness and humility.

Then there’s the third option.. psychology still plays a role but, aesthetics have meaning to you, and you’re knowingly willing to sacrifice some other aspect to please this. It’s hard to deny that a gorgeously colored nug with thick hairs and a frosty coating is tantalizing looking.
 
Then there’s the third option.. psychology still plays a role but, aesthetics have meaning to you, and you’re knowingly willing to sacrifice some other aspect to please this. It’s hard to deny that a gorgeously colored nug with thick hairs and a frosty coating is tantalizing looking.
Which is a perfectly fine tradeoff, but one the grower should choose knowing the implications. Some have argued the loss of weight is miniscule and the visual appeal is well worth it, and I don't know the numbers.

I'm not opposed to the practice, it's just not something I'd do purposely in my grow.

But, different strokes and all that.
 
Which is a perfectly fine tradeoff, but one the grower should choose knowing the implications. Some have argued the loss of weight is miniscule and the visual appeal is well worth it, and I don't know the numbers.

I'm not opposed to the practice, it's just not something I'd do purposely in my grow.

But, different strokes and all that.
Cold is a stress just like drought is a stress. It will cause the plant to initiate a stress response. What that is, is the question. Only 1 way to find out.
 
Some growers deliberately cool their plants late in flower to produce the pretty purple colors. This issue that I have with that is that it could simply be indicating your plant is having trouble uptake P since that capabilityis compromised by cool temps.

That would suggest your plant will not have been maxed out and I always thought it curious as to why one would deliberately induce a deficiency just to see pretty colors which do nothing for your harvest (except potentially reduce it).
IIRC you need sustained temps under 15⁰C to interfere with the uptake of P.
I've seen it with outdoor plants, but I've never tried to make that happen indoors. I have had a bunch of indoor plants go purple, blue, red, or some combinations of them with hardly any temp swings.
They were all strains known to turn purple without temp triggers though.
 
Indoors I don’t seem to have an issue, yet, but I am being extremely vigilant because I expect there to be a lot of mass in the room soon. It’s outdoors that I have the issue which is wild because the air is very rarely still here and it’s typically always at least slightly windy.

I’ve seen it on everything. I saw a customer with a scrog outdoors, no overlapping branches, still got bud rot. The gelato auto no overlapping branches, good spacing, fair airflow, rot. It’s frustrating.

@SmokingWings what is your experience with bud rot outdoors here? I thought it may just be my MIL yard but I’ve seen rot even in gardens where the grower was as experienced as I am.
Rot just happens. @Bode is familiar with the exact temp's and rh that set up the devil's gray dusty tendrils. Maybe he can tell us. I forget.
I purchased a UV/IR add-on bar set for my new light. I get the UV part for sure, but the IR is a bit tougher.

From what i have read, Its light that the plant can feel but not see, much like sitting in the shade on a very hot day.

The heat is there but not the light, so the plant thinks its in the shade which invokes a "Shade Response", as reports refer to it as, and whatever that plant would normally do in the shade, so lettuce gets lush, and weed stretches for the light, is what it causes in a plant.

So my understanding is if you know or research what type of "Shade Response" you will get from your plant, you can decide it you want to accelerate it by supplementing, or detract from it by unsupplementing, or not use it.

So really for us, weed will stretch, but what else I have no idea.

Its extremely interesting and possibly complicated so you know we all gotta mess around with it lol, but from what I have read, both UV and IR can screw things up if misused.

Another interesting angle I read about is to run it 10 minutes before lights on, and the last 10 minutes before lights out, so it feels warm before lights come on, and you go to bed nice and warm.

I think thats where the good stuff is, and its still dark to the plant so I think its possible stretch may be uneffected.

Maybe lol.
Speak to Emilya Green if you haven't on this. She's been studying this for a while.
 
Last night, 10 days since light change

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Flip +11.

I’ll be top dressing this weekend. Maybe a little fish bone meal and EWC, I haven’t decided yet. I love the new pots. Next time I’ll pay a little more attention to the grommets and plant with them in mind to make it even easier.

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Flip +11.

I’ll be top dressing this weekend. Maybe a little fish bone meal and EWC, I haven’t decided yet. I love the new pots. Next time I’ll pay a little more attention to the grommets and plant with them in mind to make it even easier.

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The ladies are looking good😎.

You can always run a line around the pot thru the grommets like a belt, and then tie down to that at any point you please.
 
The ladies are looking good😎.

You can always run a line around the pot thru the grommets like a belt, and then tie down to that at any point you please.

Ooo good tip, that’s even more useful than aligning the plant. Some times I need it be just an itty bitty little tiny tit bit to the left or right for a perfect canopy but then it becomes a whole thing trying to pull it just right without pulling the others. I was making little loops in each one but that didn’t really help and made it more annoying 🤣
 
Ooo good tip, that’s even more useful than aligning the plant. Some times I need it be just an itty bitty little tiny tit bit to the left or right for a perfect canopy but then it becomes a whole thing trying to pull it just right without pulling the others. I was making little loops in each one but that didn’t really help and made it more annoying 🤣
I actually use dollar store paper clips like this
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They will pop off but thats a good thing when you reach into the center and accidentally hook a string. If they are hard wired you can snap a limb but these little babies pop off instead. Clip them to the pot top or to your belt. Its like a safety pressure release valve.
 
Next time I’ll pay a little more attention to the grommets and plant with them in mind to make it even easier.
Just put some binder clips around the bag edge, then you can tie off to those with infinite spacing.

Edit: I see Gee beat me to it. Those are clips of which I speak. :thumb:
 
I actually use dollar store paper clips like this
20231006_071353.jpg

They will pop off but thats a good thing when you reach into the center and accidentally hook a string. If they are hard wired you can snap a limb but these little babies pop off instead. Clip them to the pot top or to your belt. Its like a safety pressure release valve.

Just put some binder clips around the bag edge, then you can tie off to those with infinite spacing.

Edit: I see Gee beat me to it. Those are clips of which I speak. :thumb:

I’ve got plenty of those.. If these new bags weren’t such high quality, and the grommets weren’t just an added bonus, I’d be really salty to have spent the money on fancy bags 😂
 
If your plant looks like this and you’re not sure why, check your temps:

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You see this often when temperatures aren’t warm enough. Cold weather came in fast before I could adjust and this plant didn’t like it. The room was at 76 F when I took this. This plant definitely prefers it warmer, the others were fine, and that’s wild because two have strong sativa traits

Next time I’m gonna start a month or two earlier. I wasn’t expecting these temperatures for another 2-4 weeks and it’s really annoying using a ceramic heater. I have to use a humidifier because of it, and none of the plants ever look as happy with the forced warm air regardless of where I place the heater
 

Lol.. sort of related.. I had FG while I was cooking up the soil. Had em when the plants were sprouts in solos. When I transplanted to 1s they started fading away and I haven’t seen a single FG or bug period since I went into 10s. I think I’ve finally overcome them.
 
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