Keffka's Recycling, KOS Blue Thai, Herbies Seeds Apple Betty, Runtz Punch

Final answer. Lmao. Suddenly I’m in a combination game show and lab. Heh. Thank you! That tells me what I need to know and here is my final answer. I’m going to pare the middle. Not eliminate it. I’m going to take about half or less. The lowest shoots. That will give more space for air between the middle buds anyway. Win win. Sound like a plan?
Is your strain an indica or sativa dominant one? Sativas rarely encounter airflow problems, but either way will work, and I trust your knack for feeling a plant out. Trust your gut.
 
I’m just getting here Keffka and I gotta go slow. If it’s okay I’d like to ask my questions as I go through and they come up? Like this question which is from the first pages, for example. Cool?

Welcome, and ask any questions you like!

So the idea that the colony has to be wet all the time, even in veg, sounds like the first point I’ve heard you and Gee differ on. I water like you described to build roots, and tend to figure whatever I built in veg will carry her and in flower I keep it moister like you said. So when I read Gee’s watering method it made me wonder exactly this. Why is it okay to starve water in veg relative to the colony? Am I right that you two have different opinions about this?

My bad lol, I was in the middle of answering and fell asleep, but yeah, what Gee said. I successively uppot. Like we talked about prior with root bound plants taking a few days to readjust and spread out in a new container, I have to coax the roots out in each new container.

Not only that, but because Gee starts in his flower container pretty much, he doesn’t get a free reset. He needs to ensure his biology stays alive the entire time, whereas I can get away letting most of it die off. I only do this because my soil is still young and I grow from seed. If I was growing from clone and had multiple runs on a soil I would drop into my final pot and keep it moist.

The two different soils idea is something I agree with @Gee64 on as well. Cannabis doesn’t want two different soils. That’s not how nature works. I uppot into the same soil. However, I also do extra stuff like nutrient layers in my first two containers, SRP, bone meal, kelp meal, blood meal, etc. because Cannabis likes to accumulate elements like P over the course of veg, it doesn’t want to be fed available amounts at predetermined times.

A lot of growing organically comes down to understanding how everything works, then bending it to your situation. My favorite aspect is the fluid nature of the method. You’ll often see me say “I’m gonna top dress, I haven’t decided what yet” Or you’ll see me say “I should water” then three days later I actually water. It’s the same for every aspect of the grow. I start at a base level and just watch my plants. Depending on what I see and what’s occurring I will make decisions as they’re needed. This means that a lot of times I’ll do stuff other growers aren’t and vice versa, but it all comes back to just working with the plant on its terms
 
I’m jonesing to take her Brix reading but I took it five days ago. Got a 13.1 then and you all say in theory it should rise as we develop buds. Assuming a healthy plant. I think 13.1 before flower signifies a reasonably healthy plant for essentially my first “real” time doing this. (I no longer count my Sohum, or my FF/Geo nothing else garbage. I can’t anymore. I’ll get laughed out of the lab. Lmao!). Anyway, kissing my own ass aside, I’m going to take a reading on Saturday, which is flip day. That way I get a reading at the first day of flower.
13 is awesome Jon. Your allowed to kiss your own ass. Under 12 and you get to kiss the bugs' asses🤣
 
I wish I had a more exact answer for you, but the real answer is "It depends" lol

Yep so this is what I was getting at @Jon when I said a lot organic growing is understanding what’s occurring and bending it to your situation. Every strain is different, and as can be seen in this current grow, even within strains, phenotypes can be wildly different, these are the same strain yet are growing completely different:

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Yep so this is what I was getting at @Jon when I said a lot organic growing is understanding what’s occurring and bending it to your situation. Every strain is different, and as can be seen in this current grow, even within strains, phenotypes can be wildly different, these are the same strain yet are growing completely different:

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Hehehe and you are growing Rev's seeds. His phenotype variations are off the charts.

He takes old school undeveloped strains, crosses them once or twice, and packages up untold numbers of unrefined, unwatered phenos into 1 little seed.

I have had 6 females in a 10pack that all expressed differently. Some wildly different. Its like scratch and wins.

I love his seeds and they were developed in pretty much the same soil mix I use so the sky is the limit.

Keff my advice to you is get your clone game on. You might nail a humdinger of a pheno thats a once in awhile thing, and you will want to do a couple tentfuls of it to boost your stash.

I'm not an Indica guy at all, but Rev's Hashplant intrigues me. I bet its the strain that afgani black hash comes from.😎
 
The gang

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This one is itching to root wherever it can

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You can also see the roots in the bottom right of that image and can be seen here

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Here are roots I pulled out in the other plants

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They still look healthy and feel strong

This plant is a little upset with me

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I’m not sure what it is yet. I thought temps but I got them up. They were ready for a top dress so I gave them that and some water. I have a feeling they’re either hungry and thirsty, or need to be warmer for longer, or a little of both. We’ll see over the next couple days what’s going on as I move through the checklist of possibilities.
 
You have a great eye for the small things that add up Keefka! Thanks for that!

Thanks stone! She gives off all kinds of little signals before stuff hits the fan. If you pickup on it you can head off major issues.

If you have adequate water in the rootball, light is the main driver in turgidity.

I turned the light up, warmed the room, watered and fed the plant. If it’s still dipping this weekend I’ll turn the light down

That plant you are torturing, it will attract bugs.

They’re coming out tonight.. They took much longer to throw in the towel than I expected. I’m fairly positive I could still bring it back with a little water
 
Happy plants are back! Running those 3 gallon grows to test my diagnosing skills was so priceless. Seeing a little leaf twisting which is common with the mineralized soil when they hit/receive a rich source of nutrition. This will ease within 48 hours

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A few more shots of everyone warmed up. I think the roots can handle the 75% light which is exciting. Last grow the light never went above 50 and it produced very well. The smaller plant isn’t a fan but majority rules at this point.

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You had asked whether I had any bud rot or powdery mildew problems with my outdoor grow. As luck would have it two days ago I was looking at my two outdoor plants and thought that I was seeing the very beginnings of some bud rot. Yesterday it looked a tad bit worse so I cut the plants down, cut out and tossed the couple of buds that showed the infection. Today will be trimming and bud washing after the daughter and grand kids leave.

The semi-regular spraying of Citric Acid did keep the Powdery Mildew away. This year was one of the best as far as having very little mildew start showing on the plants.
 
You had asked whether I had any bud rot or powdery mildew problems with my outdoor grow. As luck would have it two days ago I was looking at my two outdoor plants and thought that I was seeing the very beginnings of some bud rot. Yesterday it looked a tad bit worse so I cut the plants down, cut out and tossed the couple of buds that showed the infection. Today will be trimming and bud washing after the daughter and grand kids leave.

The semi-regular spraying of Citric Acid did keep the Powdery Mildew away. This year was one of the best as far as having very little mildew start showing on the plants.

What do you think drove the rot? Were these plants overlapping or did they have restricted airflow?

Rot hit one of the branches on an auto and I can’t understand why. It wasn’t in an area that was covered by any vegetation, it had decent airflow, the only thing I can think of is the sun didn’t hit it directly where it began to rot. It was even in a container with a decent soil.

I’m wondering if it’s as simple as, when we have multiple rainy days in a row, it just happens some times. I don’t like that answer but I’m fairly stumped as to what’s going on. Especially because most of the rain has come with high winds on the front and back end of the storm

If it was just my MIL then I’d attribute it to sickly plants, but I see it hitting people that have carefully crafted their grow.
 
I’m wondering if it’s as simple as, when we have multiple rainy days in a row, it just happens some times. I don’t like that answer but I’m fairly stumped as to what’s going on. Especially because most of the rain has come with high winds on the front and back end of the storm
From what I have read molds and mildews do not spread when it is damp or rainy weather. The spores spread when it is warm, dry, and a slight breeze or what most of us call near perfect outdoor weather. Rain keeps the spores from spreading; once the spores are wet they are too heavy to blow around so the problem has to have already been there.

Molds and mildews prefer warm and damp conditions to sprout and grow. We put foods in the fridge where we keep the temps and humidity down as a way to slow down the growth of molds and mildews. So why would being outside be different? I do not understand why we can figure that molds will spread and start growing just because it is rainy and/or cool temps outside in the fall. They have already been there on the plants. This year was the least mildew infection I have had in several years and I am thinking that since I put the plants out late, the last week of July, I missed the prime season for the mildew spores. Noticed the same thing when I plant cucumbers and squash later.

The spores had to have been there for awhile. Then this time of year the molds and mildews are at the end of their season and we are seeing the final stage. Similar to going outside with the daughter to help her pick a gazillion of those dang little cherry tomatoes that I spent all summer tending:). Now there are more ripe cherry tomatoes than there are green.

Back to weed plants and powdery mildew. There are about 7 varieties of PM and each infects specific plants. What hits Cannabis does not infect most other plants. Each summer I try to catch when the mildew first hits my plants and walk around the yard looking to see what other plants get hit at the same time. This year the first signs on the plants were the same week it showed on my Zinnia. And what I noticed this year was that the PM hit the same week I first noticed rust on the lawns, both mine but also neighbors and the few customers I still do lawn service for. Yes, the PM and the lawn rust are two different things but now I am thinking that I can be prepared for the PM if they both require the same weather and environmental conditions to go into full bloom.

As far as I can tell the PM on the Cannabis is a different variety than on cucumbers or squash, different than grape mildews, different than what infects oaks and some maples and a few other common garden plants.
 
From what I have read molds and mildews do not spread when it is damp or rainy weather. The spores spread when it is warm, dry, and a slight breeze or what most of us call near perfect outdoor weather.
Last year was like that here. Warm, light breezes, and hardly any rain.
We still got hit with powdery mildew. I even had a large number of fungus eating ladybugs show up to breed on my plants.
They and their larvae were often on leaves that didn't have any visible PM on them yet, but were clearly feeding on something.
 
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