Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow

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Ignore the perlite, thats just the ratio that works for his pots. You can use any amount of perlite you prefer. Its the other 3 that count. This is common in many recipes.

While I love Rev trying to make LOS accessible it’s almost like he doesn’t understand exactly what’s going on. It’s more like he’s just done it for so long he’s learned through trial and error. Then again this could also be because his last book was in 2016 and we’ve made some pretty significant knowledge jumps since then.
 
When you compost, whether its vermicomposting or regular hot composting, you need 2 parts carbon and 1 part nitrogen, browns and greens, to end up with balanced finished compost.

The carbon (browns) have all been eaten as well as the nitrogens (greens) which are now proteins and aminos. If you added your ammendments they are in here too but your alfalfa meal is no longer nitrogen, its proteins that are made of nitrogen. Your coco is no longer carbon, its humate.

You can't count these as carbon or nitrogen, they are now fixed by microbes (composted) into locked nutrients that must be eaten again to become available to the plant.

From here on in, the plant gets carbon and nitrogen from the air. Carbon in your soil is microbe food. Nitrogen in your soil has been converted into aminos. If you still had nitrogen and carbon in your soil, it would hot compost.

To get the compost eaten again you must mix in more carbon, but no new nitrogen. If you add fresh meals it composts again. You want microbes to eat all that carbon and in the process, eat the compost a 2nd time.

The microbes/fungii are supplied, along with some bioavailable (already twice eaten) food, from the used soil. It innoculates your new grow AND feeds it (mix well) until the new soil gets established into a biosphere.

So 1 part compost, 1 part coco so the compost gets eaten again, and 1 part used soil. Then add perlite.
 
When you compost, whether its vermicomposting or regular hot composting, you need 2 parts carbon and 1 part nitrogen, browns and greens, to end up with balanced finished compost.

The carbon (browns) have all been eaten as well as the nitrogens (greens) which are now proteins and aminos. If you added your ammendments they are in here too but your alfalfa meal is no longer nitrogen, its proteins that are made of nitrogen. Your coco is no longer carbon, its humate.

You can't count these as carbon or nitrogen, they are now fixed by microbes (composted) into locked nutrients that must be eaten again to become available to the plant.

From here on in, the plant gets carbon and nitrogen from the air. Carbon in your soil is microbe food. Nitrogen in your soil has been converted into aminos. If you still had nitrogen and carbon in your soil, it would hot compost.

To get the compost eaten again you must mix in more carbon, but no new nitrogen. If you add fresh meals it composts again. You want microbes to eat all that carbon and in the process, eat the compost a 2nd time.

The microbes/fungii are supplied, along with some bioavailable (already twice eaten) food, from the used soil. It innoculates your new grow AND feeds it (mix well) until the new soil gets established into a biosphere.

So 1 part compost, 1 part coco so the compost gets eaten again, and 1 part used soil. Then add perlite.

Are there quality differences between different cocos or can I buy the cheap bricks and just rinse the heck out of them?
 
Are there quality differences between different cocos or can I buy the cheap bricks and just rinse the heck out of them?
Of that I am not sure. I did a fair bit of research a few years back and decided Canna brand coco was the best one and have used it ever since and it does everything its supposed to without detriment, so I never tried others.

Regardless of what some will tell you, you don't want salt in your mix, so tread carefully, but in theory coco is coco.
 
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Here is another example of a supersoil base mix. This is Natures Living Soil's recipe for a base mix to add their amendments too, and create supersoil.

They don't use used soil, so its just equal parts plant food and microbe food. Then add perlite.

This recipe was designed for top watering.

I find with bottom watering, 25% perlite gets too wet at certain stages of development, so I will probably increase my perlite in my next mix by 50%, and keep the same ratios of the other 3 parts.

The clones handled 25% perlite well enough, but could have still used more oxygen.

The Mutant has remained too wet her entire life. She's just outgrowing it now at day 45 since sprouting.
 
Flip +31.. I realized I made a terrible measurement mistake with my light which explains the light burning. I didn’t realize the taller plants were getting 1200 PPFD at their spot when the light was at 75%. I figured it out before the buds bleached but the leaves definitely got scorched.

It’s alright though everyone still looks strong and healthy. I raised the shorter plant up 3 inches higher so it could get more light. When plants reach the white crossbar my light doesn’t need to go above 50%, which means I need to bring the shorter ones up higher. Oh well, always something to learn/figure out lol















 
Here’s what potassium issues look like:
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Here’s what Phosphorus issues look like:
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When I was looking through images of deficiencies none of the images I saw looked like what I was seeing, and the ones that did were low quality. I’m gonna try cataloging high quality images of different issues for a better reference than the hard to distinguish charts and grainy images.

Regarding this grow, these aren’t actually issues. These leaves are the least efficient leaves on the plant so she takes what she wants from them when she feels like she needs it. Since we’re 31 days after flip and she’s only attacking inefficient leaves I’m not concerned.
 
@Gee64 do you bud wash? I’m looking at my pots and they have considerable dust on the areas that are fan facing leading me to believe the buds will likely have dust on them as well.

Also, re: pistil growth. Is the size/thickness of a plants pistils genetics, grow related, or a combination of multiple factors?
 
Flip +32

They responded to the light change almost immediately, and they love it. Buds are building a lot throughout the day. Color and leaves all still look strong and healthy. Stems are strong and bearing weight well except for a few lower branches, I’m contemplating just removing their buds. Trichomes are carpeting and thick. Still lots of veg growth occurring throughout. Everything looks really good, I couldn’t have asked for a better grow.

My favorite part is everything is cheap, completely natural or organic, provided from sources I know, that are found in nature, and without any sort of chemicals or goofy named products. The amount of work I have had to do is minimal as well. The plant and the soil food web are doing all the real work.
















Here are the leaners
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They’re smaller bud wise and are more of a nuisance than anything.. I’m gonna give them a day to build out more but they’re probably just gonna get cut off.
 
@Gee64 do you bud wash? I’m looking at my pots and they have considerable dust on the areas that are fan facing leading me to believe the buds will likely have dust on them as well.

Also, re: pistil growth. Is the size/thickness of a plants pistils genetics, grow related, or a combination of multiple factors?
I have bud washed. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.

It makes better smoke, but you do end up with trichs in the bucket. Also a lot of dirt. More than you would expect.

I use a mix of baking soda and lemon juice, then 2 rinse buckets to flush after washing. I think it's Doc Bud's Budwashing thread that I got the washing recipe from.
 
Testing the new macro lense.. I’m dumping all the images but only a few are decent.. I’ve gotta get a tripod, I shake too much to be able to get in close and my plants are always gently swaying so it’s gonna take some practice. Any tips on shooting are welcomed and appreciated

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ya know it is pretty Ironic not only are you schooling me on organics maybe you can help me figure out my macro on my camera Im trying to take proper pics but for now the I phone is ok but i would like to figure out my camera lol
 
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