Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow

[Gee64]

So Keff... Supercropping?

I may need to do it on the 10gal clone.

Are you impressed with it?

To do it again, when exactly would you do it?

 

[Keffka]

I do. Sorry I should have mentioned this... I dry some ewc. I leave the lid off a container until I can crumble it like dirt.

Then I sprinkle that dry crumble over my mulch and water it in. That way a small bit gets right in and the calcium starts to work. Low and steady.

A tablespoon here, a tablespoon there, is part of my regular regiment.

Yeah I usually use mulch. I haven't lately as nothing was going to flower cycle until now.

Anything I intend to flower gets bark mulch its whole life. It gets feeder roots right up to the surface.

Without mulch, quite often when you dissect a rootball, you see that the top inch had no roots in it.

If you use mulch it will have roots in it. You need that food, and mulch blocks the light so the roots move in.

Then the roots will eat the carbon in the bark mulch. They will grow right onto the bark nuggets from underneath.

I add mulch about 2 times after flower starts, so 3 times total in a 10 week flower. It gets eaten quick.

You don't want it too thick. Find the line between blocking light but not choking air.

Ok this makes a bit more sense. I’ve done something similar. Whenever I lose a leaf I crumble it up and sprinkle it across the mulch so it gets watered in. Same with the bits and pieces from teas.

I’ve noticed the amazing root growth above the soil line. When I move the mulch to put down a top dressing there’s a lot of nice thick feeder roots there where I’ve top dressed, plus you can see in multiple spots where a root has latched on to some of the bark and it’s like it’s almost pulling it down into the soil.

I’ll never not use mulch again after what I’ve seen. It’s especially cool because I’ll either band my nutrients or make little piles and the roots congregate in those areas. They also snake up and snatch the little tea pieces out of the mulch. All just very cool looking.

So Keff... Supercropping?

I may need to do it on the 10gal clone.

Are you impressed with it?

To do it again, when exactly would you do it?

Super cropping, so far I’m impressed with it. There’s a few points I think it would work best. First, if you know before you flip that you’re going to need to do it, then do it 3-4 days before you plan on flipping. There’s not a lot of recovery time if you do it right, however the plant does spend some resources adjusting in that spot.

If you’ve already flipped for flower then I’d recommend right about 14 days after flipping. Too soon and you may shock it right as it’s getting ready to explode, if you wait too long then it may not turn itself back toward the light. 2 weeks was perfect. The majority of the stretch had taken place, but the plant was still able to flip itself back toward the light within 12 hours. This will also prevent the plant from wasting budding time and resources on readjusting itself.

Super cropping also seems to have had a sort of manifolding effect. Instead of the majority of the resources going to the apical point, they’re now being spread around the top colas which in my case is about 5-6 colas on one plant and 8-10 on the other.

Another thing to note is, in my reading, it’s said that super cropping will widen the stem, giving you a larger xylem and phylum, which I can see being true with the additional colas getting more resources. If this is in fact true, I can see there being a benefit in supercropping while in Veg, perhaps alongside manifolding. This will create extra stress and a longer Veg but I can see there being some powerful benefits from say, manifolding the plant then supercropping each cola. Each cola will have a wider stem to feed it and be much stronger at its knuckle.

 

[Keffka]

All I can say is wow.. I’m very impressed with the plants this morning. They’re already huge and are getting incredibly fat each day. We’re not even halfway done yet.. the bamboo poles are 4 footers and the white bar along the top is 4 feet from the floor.. plants are in 3 gallons and are taller than 4 feet.. I’ve had to tie them down to prevent them from going higher. I could’ve easily pushed these plants to 7-8 feet tall in the 3 gallon.

 

[Gee64]

Ok this makes a bit more sense. I’ve done something similar. Whenever I lose a leaf I crumble it up and sprinkle it across the mulch so it gets watered in. Same with the bits and pieces from teas.

Yeah sorry, Sometimes I take little details for granted.

Crumbling leaves back in, however, in theory can cause you grief.

1 or 2 no big deal, but introducing raw nitrogen to a live rhizosphere will allow for the raw carbon in your soil to decompose, and once that starts it becomes a smoldering log. When the leaf runs out of nitrogen, the smoldering log will immediately hog all atmospheric nitrogen, and you will see a deficiency that you can't cure evolve.

The only way to stop it is to put the fire out, which won't happen until all the carbon burns up. Only then will atmospheric nitrogen become available to the plant again, but its a moot point if all your carbon is gone.

Don't play with matches.

Feed those leaves, and all fresh vegetation to the worms or compost. The compost needs it desperately. Every leaf helps.

I’ve noticed the amazing root growth above the soil line. When I move the mulch to put down a top dressing there’s a lot of nice thick feeder roots there where I’ve top dressed, plus you can see in multiple spots where a root has latched on to some of the bark and it’s like it’s almost pulling it down into the soil.

Once you go mulch, you never go back.

I’ll never not use mulch again after what I’ve seen. It’s especially cool because I’ll either band my nutrients or make little piles and the roots congregate in those areas. They also snake up and snatch the little tea pieces out of the mulch. All just very cool looking.

Its amazing what goes on in the dark.

Super cropping, so far I’m impressed with it. There’s a few points I think it would work best. First, if you know before you flip that you’re going to need to do it, then do it 3-4 days before you plan on flipping. There’s not a lot of recovery time if you do it right, however the plant does spend some resources adjusting in that spot.

If you’ve already flipped for flower then I’d recommend right about 14 days after flipping. Too soon and you may shock it right as it’s getting ready to explode, if you wait too long then it may not turn itself back toward the light. 2 weeks was perfect. The majority of the stretch had taken place, but the plant was still able to flip itself back toward the light within 12 hours. This will also prevent the plant from wasting budding time and resources on readjusting itself.

Super cropping also seems to have had a sort of manifolding effect. Instead of the majority of the resources going to the apical point, they’re now being spread around the top colas which in my case is about 5-6 colas on one plant and 8-10 on the other.

Another thing to note is, in my reading, it’s said that super cropping will widen the stem, giving you a larger xylem and phylum, which I can see being true with the additional colas getting more resources. If this is in fact true, I can see there being a benefit in supercropping while in Veg, perhaps alongside manifolding. This will create extra stress and a longer Veg but I can see there being some powerful benefits from say, manifolding the plant then supercropping each cola. Each cola will have a wider stem to feed it and be much stronger at its knuckle.

Ok this is really helpful stuff Thank You.

I will hold off until I have to do it. This pheno is as lanky as your tall ones. Actually very similar looking.

I'm hoping not to, but at 2-4 inches of growth a day, and 2 weeks of stretch left, the growth is only going to excellerate.

If its like manifolding for fattening up the main trunks then it's gotta be worth it

That alone makes me feel way better about bending her over.

We shall see....

 

[Gee64]

I call dibs on that one. Want my mailing address?

 

[Gee64]

They look very content Your plan is working nicely

 

[Gee64]

Growing your own Tigh sticks Gotta love sativa's. Just sticks and buds and epically giant fan leaves.

 

[Keffka]

Growing your own Tigh sticks Gotta love sativa's. Just sticks and buds and epically giant fan leaves.

I was just getting ready to say, while the lankiness is a pain indoors, it makes it a lot easier to get good light coverage and penetration across the plant. There’s spots I would’ve chopped on an indica that are left on.

 

[Keffka]

I would love to get an indica flower on these lanky plants.. I may have to do some grafting and breeding of my own

 

[Keffka]

That alone makes me feel way better about bending her over

Just work her slowly.. You wanna pinch the stem between your fingers, but not too tightly, and just work her back and forth.. it took probably a minute or two to slowly work it down without breaking its outer shell. You can feel it start to give after a bit

 

[Gee64]

I have one of these but haven't tried it yet. I'm waiting until I get an exceptionally rooted pheno, and then will use its stump.

I'm going to try it outdoors this summer on progressively bigger branches to find a sweet spot. It looks like matching new branch diameter to stump branch diameter will be the important part.

It would be cool to build your own plant of hawaiian, malawi, durban, afganni hash plant , etc with strains from 8week flowering up to purple haze and malawi at 20+ weeks, and constantly be harvesting all year long.

If it works as good as the pictures look, it should be fine. Put thos together with a splint and duct tape and they should be fine.

 

[Azimuth]

Just work her slowly.. You wanna pinch the stem between your fingers, but not too tightly, and just work her back and forth.. it took probably a minute or two to slowly work it down without breaking its outer shell. You can feel it start to give after a bit

I use the cap from a stick pen and push the stem around it gently. I've broken too many just using my fingers. Could use pliers wrapped with electricians tape around the jaws as well.

 

[013]

nice graft tool…

I use rice hulls as ground cover and as part of my aeration in soil mix. I’ve used bark before with my supersoil & rove beetles, liked it very much but need to revisit bark so thanks for this.

Couple weird ideas / rhetorical questions about supercropping / stem crushing that I’d like to see played out.

Seems to work best with 90 degree bend but often I will crush the stem and let the plant continue vertical growth

can it be done on seedling say when it reaches node 4-5…super crop main stem early to impact whole plant but then also SC the side branches as you train your shape

doing SC on a seedling with good node spacing and hitting every space between the nodes as she builds from early age…

where is best? between nodes 3 & 4 …. above the cotys or below them?

does it help to SC a limb multiple times?

once you have supercropped the lowers and plant has many nodes in middle and on top… is it better to SC from top down or start in middle to work your way up?

supercropping the top to slow it down while lowers continue to grow

anyway food for thought - hope this is not a distraction…

 

[Azimuth]

nice graft tool…

I use rice hulls as ground cover and as part of my aeration in soil mix. I’ve used bark before with my supersoil & rove beetles, liked it very much but need to revisit bark so thanks for this.

Couple weird ideas / rhetorical questions about supercropping / stem crushing that I’d like to see played out.

Seems to work best with 90 degree bend but often I will crush the stem and let the plant continue vertical growth

can it be done on seedling say when it reaches node 4-5…super crop main stem early to impact whole plant but then also SC the side branches as you train your shape

doing SC on a seedling with good node spacing and hitting every space between the nodes as she builds from early age…

where is best? between nodes 3 & 4 …. above the cotys or below them?

does it help to SC a limb multiple times?

once you have supercropped the lowers and plant has many nodes in middle and on top… is it better to SC from top down or start in middle to work your way up?

supercropping the top to slow it down while lowers continue to grow

anyway food for thought - hope this is not a distraction…

All good questions. The grower that did the most experimenting with SC was @danishoes21 but we haven't seen him around in a while. But he had great success as documented in his journal.

 

[Azimuth]

Crumbling leaves back in, however, in theory can cause you grief.

1 or 2 no big deal, but introducing raw nitrogen to a live rhizosphere will allow for the raw carbon in your soil to decompose, and once that starts it becomes a smoldering log. When the leaf runs out of nitrogen, the smoldering log will immediately hog all atmospheric nitrogen, and you will see a deficiency that you can't cure evolve.

The only way to stop it is to put the fire out, which won't happen until all the carbon burns up. Only then will atmospheric nitrogen become available to the plant again, but its a moot point if all your carbon is gone.

Don't play with matches.

Feed those leaves, and all fresh vegetation to the worms or compost. The compost needs it desperately. Every leaf helps.

Does it matter if you let the leaves dry out first before topdressing with them?

 

[Gee64]

Does it matter if you let the leaves dry out first before topdressing with them?

Once they are fully dried and brown, brown being the important part, they are carbon.

Green and crumbled they are a meal. Meals will compost as a nitrogen source. This must happen and be finished before planting.

Cannabis leaves and kelp are by far my 2 favorite meals. Alfalfa too. I don't use blood meal much anymore.

 

[Keffka]

I’ll address @013 questions in a moment but I just was reading back over the TLO book and came across this. I completely forgot that Rev said in fabrics he was having to water 3 times a day.. this explains why I’ve had to water so much more than I expected, I forgot about the massive air difference

 

[Keffka]

nice graft tool…

I use rice hulls as ground cover and as part of my aeration in soil mix. I’ve used bark before with my supersoil & rove beetles, liked it very much but need to revisit bark so thanks for this.

Couple weird ideas / rhetorical questions about supercropping / stem crushing that I’d like to see played out.

Seems to work best with 90 degree bend but often I will crush the stem and let the plant continue vertical growth

Personally I went with 90 degrees because I was SCing due to height of the plants. I was trying to bring them as low as possible. However I don’t see any issue with just letting them continue vertical growth. SC widens the stem causing the xylem and phylum to essentially become a multi lane highway as opposed to a 2 way street.

can it be done on seedling say when it reaches node 4-5…super crop main stem early to impact whole plant but then also SC the side branches as you train your shape

doing SC on a seedling with good node spacing and hitting every space between the nodes as she builds from early age…

It can definitely be done on a seedling.. the herm I had to toss was SCd as a seedling and it had a very strong base. I SCd it once it had 4 nodes. Just be aware that this can cause stress on the plant so plan accordingly and don’t SC a struggling sprout

where is best? between nodes 3 & 4 …. above the cotys or below them?

It’s likely going to depend on phenotype. I would do it above the cotys at least, but from there it’s dealers choice depending on the plant’s characteristics. I’ll read more about this and see if there’s any info counter to this.

does it help to SC a limb multiple times?

It seems to me it would be overkill to do it more than once per limb. However it could definitely be viable especially as a way to create stronger support for your buds.

once you have supercropped the lowers and plant has many nodes in middle and on top… is it better to SC from top down or start in middle to work your way up?

This depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. I would check out journals from the user that @Azimuth linked, @danishoes21 I believe he said. You’ll likely find examples in their journals to help guide your decisions. I’ll be looking over the journals myself as well.

supercropping the top to slow it down while lowers continue to grow

anyway food for thought - hope this is not a distraction…

All distractions are welcome.. I’m in flower after stretch so I’ve got nothing to do but wait I actually appreciate any sort of questions or comments, that’s how we wind up teasing out some of the best info.

 

[Gee64]

I’ll address @013 questions in a moment but I just was reading back over the TLO book and came across this. I completely forgot that Rev said in fabrics he was having to water 3 times a day.. this explains why I’ve had to water so much more than I expected, I forgot about the massive air difference

Dripper lines to a small pump in an RO tub hooked to a smart plug outlet work really well. The plant wants consistently moist soil. You can drip for 1 minute 20 times a day on a timer if you want to. The only problem is the plants water requirements change so you still need to watch it.

 

[Keffka]

Dripper lines to a small pump in an RO tub hooked to a smart plug outlet work really well. The plant wants consistently moist soil. You can drip for 1 minute 20 times a day on a timer if you want to. The only problem is the plants water requirements change so you still need to watch it.

I was thinking that the other day. A drip feed irrigation system would likely work best in this situation and would relieve me of having to water so often. One of the original reasons I didn’t go with coco was I didn’t want to have to water every day. Now I’m watering 3 times a day as it is

@Azimuth are their fabric SIPs?