Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow

[johnehazeharvester]

I dislike talking about germination because this is all about to sound like arrogant bragging but I promise it isn’t. The only reason I talk about it, is so others can pickup on something they may be missing.

Germination isn’t an issue for me. I went 8 for 8 this time and in all my time sprouting I’ve only ever messed up one seed, and I refuse to believe that was completely my fault I don’t really understand all the problems others have but I have a suspicion it’s related to trying to sprout outside of the soil, especially if using sterile water and a sterile environment and I am about to cover why.

I’m done with all the extra stuff for seeds and seedlings. I’m just rolling them in myco and tossing them in soil and letting it rip from there. You’ll find out when you read teaming with bacteria that seeds come with generations worth of bacteria (that are responsible for immunities, resilience, rhizophagy cycles, etc.) that reside within the seed and on the seed and when you sprout them anywhere but the soil you lose the greater majority of that bacteria. The moment they begin to germinate the bacteria explodes out into the environment. You can minimize this by pouring the water into your medium but you still run the risk of the light destroying the bacteria before it makes it in your medium.

Rolling them in myco means the very moment they crack open myco makes contact with the roots. No waiting for it to tap no waiting for it to reach it in the soil, it’s immediate.

I’m also able to keep my tent and room both warm and humid enough for seedlings. Since they’re only in their cups for 14 days before transplant after coming above ground I don’t really need to spend much time or resources on the seedlings. The only change I need to make going forward is a Mg charge in my soil.

My light is a commercial grade fixture meant to go from seed to harvest and I dislike domes because I don’t get good airflow. When my light is set to 25% the power usage is low so it doesn’t really make sense for me to try to use a smaller setup when sprouting, this also prevents any issues transitioning to the LED.

Plants can sense gravity and air. They don’t need to be positioned in the soil in any specific way, just toss them in.

A lot of the previous information regarding cannabis and its cultivation is a result of the illegality of it. People viewed it as some sort of magical black box that behaves differently than all other plants and this just isn’t true. All the special methods and rituals of sprouting and growing cannabis are unnecessary.

Obligate mycotrophs like Orchids require more nuances when germinating than Cannabis. Cannabis is a really simple plant that is so dead set on existing it has spent millennia evolving multiple ways to ensure it can continue to exist on its own. The more we interfere with its processes the less efficient it is.

Okay sounds good. Just wanted to share idea about your radiator but it looks like you are all dialed in.

 

[Keffka]

Okay sounds good. Just wanted to share idea about your radiator but it looks like you are all dialed in.

Ahh yes forgot about the radiator my bad .. I was trying something but it wasn’t really any more effective.. they’re set into the floor so I can’t move them around. For warmth before they break ground I just use a heating pad.. the same one I use to keep my teas warm as well. You can buy a seedling mat with a thermostat but I’m all about using the stuff I have around my house as much as I can

 

[Keffka]

I didn’t like the radiator because it dried out my soil too much on the sides before my plants even broke ground. To fix that would require me to dome it or spray the soil before they break ground, both of which I don’t want to do. Airflow is so so so important to plants young and old.. I will take a couple losses if it means good airflow. Spraying the soil before the plants break ground also throws off my timing and makes the root growth slightly lazier since they don’t need to aggressively search out water. I want my roots driving hard and fast for the first 14 days so I can get them out of the solos asap.

Although I do think I could stand to spray the top a little more during seedling because when I transplanted I had very little of the top feeder roots. You can see in these images the roots started branching out about halfway down the cup.. Cannabis can throw out more roots up top to hold the soil together better but I think my lack of spraying prevented that.

 

[Keffka]

@Gee64 check out this edging. This is the only plant doing this.. what do you think we’re looking at here? I would say heat except it’s the only one.. I was thinking maybe when I cranked the light to 50% it went into light avoidance but it’s still doing it on the new top growth. I’m not seeing it on the axial growth though so I’m a bit confused.

It looks like it may be indica dominant.. Too warm perhaps?

 

[Keffka]

I watered these two again even though they haven’t fully prayed yet.. I’m trying to figure out whether it’s overwatering, Mg, or possibly the myco is struggling to hold

 

[Gee64]

@Gee64 check out this edging. This is the only plant doing this.. what do you think we’re looking at here? I would say heat except it’s the only one.. I was thinking maybe when I cranked the light to 50% it went into light avoidance but it’s still doing it on the new top growth. I’m not seeing it on the axial growth though so I’m a bit confused.

It looks like it may be indica dominant.. Too warm perhaps?

Yeah looks like heat stress. light/vpd usually flips the serrations into saw teeth and some cupping. Just cupping is usually heat. Dry heat does it worse. Has your humidity plummeted? go easy on that plant its roots may not be as developed as the others. I would give it fish ferts to soothe it down.

 

[Keffka]

Yeah looks like heat stress. light/vpd usually flips the serrations into saw teeth and some cupping. Just cupping is usually heat. Dry heat does it worse. Has your humidity plummeted? go easy on that plant its roots may not be as developed as the others. I would give it fish ferts to soothe it down.

That’s what I was thinking, no serrating, just the cupping/edging

I’ve had humidity drop offs when the humidifiers needed to be refilled but not for very long.. Although I may have a dry warm air current in the room hitting the plant since it’s on the outside of the group, nearest a wall, and my space heater is angled to flow around the walls of the tent.

 

[Keffka]

Yikes.. bummer about radiator heating is, my thermostat batteries died in the middle of the night. I knew it seemed colder than 68 in the house and sure enough I walk out and the thermostat is dead I slept real good though, cold air knocks me out.

 

[Gee64]

That’s what I was thinking, no serrating, just the cupping/edging

I’ve had humidity drop offs when the humidifiers needed to be refilled but not for very long.. Although I may have a dry warm air current in the room hitting the plant since it’s on the outside of the group, nearest a wall, and my space heater is angled to flow around the walls of the tent.

Try putting it in the middle of the pack and see if that helps it. Young plants will show heat stress worse than old ones. You don't need to push plants in veg. I run mine low and slow.

For proper and full resin production at least 56 days from sprout until flower flip is recommended.

I find with old school less manipulated sativa genetics 65-70 days gives you better plants, so no need to hurry as they will be huge.

I wait until the plant is producing nice long pre-flower pistils before I flip to flower.

If you do that you can flip its clones way sooner as the maturity transfers to the clones.

Nothing cooler than a 6" plant with preflowers

 

[Keffka]

Try putting it in the middle of the pack and see if that helps it. Young plants will show heat stress worse than old ones. You don't need to push plants in veg. I run mine low and slow.

For proper and full resin production at least 56 days from sprout until flower flip is recommended.

I find with old school less manipulated sativa genetics 65-70 days gives you better plants, so no need to hurry as they will be huge.

I wait until the plant is producing nice long pre-flower pistils before I flip to flower.

If you do that you can flip its clones way sooner as the maturity transfers to the clones.

Nothing cooler than a 6" plant with preflowers

None of these are going to be old school less manipulated.. my MIL doesn’t roll like that

I will definitely be waiting for sexual maturity.. It just makes sense, especially since we’re not propping the plant up with synthetics and making its decisions for it. My only concern with letting them go longer than 58-60 days is pot size. Running in a 3 gallon I’m gonna be skirting right up on the edge of resource availability as it is by letting them spend 2 weeks before flower then 10 weeks min for the sativas.

Although I have been thinking about buying some coco and tossing it into the base mix before I transplant into the 3 gallons. What’re your thoughts on this? Currently it’s just the coco that came in the Stonington mix. Extra coco will also let me push all 8 into flower instead of having to decide which 4 I want to take.
I’ve got way more than enough perlite to cover any extra organic matter additions, especially since it’s at a 33% ratio

I’m gonna mess around with clones a little bit when they get a little older just so I can be ready to clone Revs seeds. I’m in no rush to clone these current plants since I’d like to get the Blue Thais going. I have become very fond of growing from seed though so hopefully cloning is just as fun.

 

[Gee64]

I watered these two again even though they haven’t fully prayed yet.. I’m trying to figure out whether it’s overwatering, Mg, or possibly the myco is struggling to hold

Flip it over and check its roots. See if its water logged.

It looks a tad low on mg but if you have corrected that you will have to wait for new leaves to really tell.

The chlorosis is improper chlorophyl so it can't photosynthesize perfectly.

I always go straight to the roots. If they look good then myco is working, if they are thin like thread its not and needs a myco drench.

Overall it looks happy so I would guess it just needs a few more days.

Also from seed every pheno is different. I find slow plants usually turn into Vixens.

They are more complex. Usually they end up with very sweet resin smells. The hot chicks always make you work harder lol.

It may need a slightly higher charge too so you could try another light dose of cal-mag or some ewc.

Calmag works quicker. Ewc works better in the long run but your clock is ticking so science that thing! lol no do what you feel best with, you have time.

Start at the roots.

Dont forget to unmulch it before you flip it over or it will unmulch itself lol.

Be gentle with the mulch, It will have microlife and possibly attached to roots and/or hyphae.

 

[Gee64]

None of these are going to be old school less manipulated.. my MIL doesn’t roll like that

I will definitely be waiting for sexual maturity.. It just makes sense, especially since we’re not propping the plant up with synthetics and making its decisions for it. My only concern with letting them go longer than 58-60 days is pot size. Running in a 3 gallon I’m gonna be skirting right up on the edge of resource availability as it is by letting them spend 2 weeks before flower then 10 weeks min for the sativas.

Although I have been thinking about buying some coco and tossing it into the base mix before I transplant into the 3 gallons. What’re your thoughts on this? Currently it’s just the coco that came in the Stonington mix. Extra coco will also let me push all 8 into flower instead of having to decide which 4 I want to take.
I’ve got way more than enough perlite to cover any extra organic matter additions, especially since it’s at a 33% ratio

I’m gonna mess around with clones a little bit when they get a little older just so I can be ready to clone Revs seeds. I’m in no rush to clone these current plants since I’d like to get the Blue Thais going. I have become very fond of growing from seed though so hopefully cloning is just as fun.

I like seeds better mysef as I like to manifold and its easier with immature plants, but clones are where you can do side-by-side science all from the same pheno.

Cloning is a lot of work and if the clones get unhealthy, which they can until they get established, their brix levels plummet and bugs can and will move in but its another really fun thing to learn.

As for the timelines on pot size your point is a very valid concern. From clone a 2 or 3 gal pot is fine but from seed a 6gal is my minimum standard and again, its why I like 10's.

After uppot to final 10 gals I can still veg for 4 more gallons worth of time before I get nervous.

That being said 10gals raise tent humidity a fair bit, but its very dry where I live. The average day is 35% RH and low 20's in the cold part of winter.

I have trouble hitting 60% in my tents. I dont even have an exhaust fan in my veg tent and my freshly cut clones need to be tied in clear garbage bags, domes won't do it consistently.

If you really want to stick with small pots you will love clones.

 

[Gee64]

I also use the added time a 10gal affords to grow extra veg to strip off for my worm farm. Gotta pay The Piper.

 

[Gee64]

Having to take off from home as quickly as I did for family stuff, I forgot I was droughting lol. Today is day 13 and I wont be home until tomorrow. Doh!! They won't have to hang for long!

 

[Gee64]

Although I do think I could stand to spray the top a little more during seedling because when I transplanted I had very little of the top feeder roots. You can see in these images the roots started branching out about halfway down the cup.. Cannabis can throw out more roots up top to hold the soil together better but I think my lack of spraying prevented that.

After the seed sprouted did you bury the stalk up a bit? When I do that quite often you will see no roots in the top section that you buried up, very similar to what you see here.

Its not a waste tho as the cal in that top area will still flow down and fungii will come up to the mulch for the nutes. I quite often notice that that rootless zone turns into extremely nice soil.

 

[Keffka]

Flip it over and check its roots. See if its water logged.

It looks a tad low on mg but if you have corrected that you will have to wait for new leaves to really tell.

The chlorosis is improper chlorophyl so it can't photosynthesize perfectly.

I always go straight to the roots. If they look good then myco is working, if they are thin like thread its not and needs a myco drench.

Overall it looks happy so I would guess it just needs a few more days.

Also from seed every pheno is different. I find slow plants usually turn into Vixens.

They are more complex. Usually they end up with very sweet resin smells. The hot chicks always make you work harder lol.

It may need a slightly higher charge too so you could try another light dose of cal-mag or some ewc.

Calmag works quicker. Ewc works better in the long run but your clock is ticking so science that thing! lol no do what you feel best with, you have time.

Start at the roots.

Dont forget to unmulch it before you flip it over or it will unmulch itself lol.

Be gentle with the mulch, It will have microlife and possibly attached to roots and/or hyphae.

Ok so I think I can rule out overwatering. I looked in this morning and both plants look more vigorous on top of their growth spurt

I’m gonna let the temps warm up to their day time temps and check them again to ensure proper praying but perhaps it was wanting more Mag.. they got tea’d yesterday which had a decent shot of calcium and magnesium in it, they may just be indica piggies like that

After the seed sprouted did you bury the stalk up a bit? When I do that quite often you will see no roots in the top section that you buried up, very similar to what you see here.

Its not a waste tho as the cal in that top area will still flow down and fungii will come up to the mulch for the nutes. I quite often notice that that rootless zone turns into extremely nice soil.

No, no buried stalks. I get pretty good stalk growth and they’ve been slightly swaying since they sprouted so they’re strong and don’t need it.

 

[Gee64]

They do look better! Hows the one with the cupped leaves today?

 

[Keffka]

They do look better! Hows the one with the cupped leaves today?

It’s the one in the first image.. Cupping seems permanent however the new growth looks a bit more relaxed. Would magnesium affect its ability to resist heat?

 

[Gee64]

It’s the one in the first image.. Cupping seems permanent however the new growth looks a bit more relaxed. Would magnesium affect its ability to resist heat?

I'm not sure but it definitely plays a major role in photosynthesis and PS drives exhaust which aids cooling so I would guess yes, plus balanced health makes a stronger plant in general.

 

[Keffka]

I'm not sure but it definitely plays a major role in photosynthesis and PS drives exhaust which aids cooling so I would guess yes, plus balanced health makes a stronger plant in general.

So I’m sitting here looking at the plants and was thinking about new growth coloring.. Here’s what the plants look like when recently watered:

You can see the brightly colored new growth. Here is a plant getting close to needing water:

There’s quite a noticeable difference in the brightness of the new growth occurring. Could we use this brightness or lack of it as a sign of being close to requiring water?