But maybe because of the tilth issue it should be top down rather than bottom up.
Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow
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Gee64
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I think you are about to find outBut maybe because of the tilth issue it should be top down rather than bottom up.
Please share it with us.
Gee64
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To work properly calcium needs to sink, otherwise it would collect in the rootzone in spots and those spots would stop growing, so I don't think it will come up much in young plants, but it very well could if a plant is more root than soil and sucking water hard.
I am hoping it comes up, life would be a lot more bulletproof with cal on cruise control.
I am hoping it comes up, life would be a lot more bulletproof with cal on cruise control.
Certainly will. And adding it to the reservoir would be super easy to do as I make up a container of various Jadam extracts in certain ratios so it would be easy enough to add another input.I think you are about to find out
Please share it with us.
The thing is my original inputs should have the necessary calcium as a normal part, but maybe not.
It's probably more likely that my excessive concentrations are wreaking havoc on the proper functioning of the whole. I went big because I had P deficiencies in my initial two new SIP grows so wanted to be sure nothing was lacking in this round.
And what are your thoughts about my purpling petioles, does that indicate excessive nutrients as I read elsewhere?
Gee64
Well-Known Member
P is hard to get and if a plant moves as quick as yours are, thats a lot of P. Something to keep an eye on for sure
As for the purpling I find it just comes and goes. I have never really tried to chase it.
Myself, I think its actually a sign of stress, and not a specific indicator. But thats a guess.
Ok thanks. I also had deep green leaves and the start of a bit of clawing at the tips which is an N excess that seems to be going away with my recent two weaker waterings which were mostly WCA with a small amount of left over double strength JLF. Combining the two at roughly 3:1 WCA:JLF gave me a lighter mix than I had been using, but strong Ca.P is hard to get and if a plant moves as quick as yours are, thats a lot of P. Something to keep an eye on for sure
As for the purpling I find it just comes and goes. I have never really tried to chase it.
Myself, I think its actually a sign of stress, and not a specific indicator. But thats a guess.
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@ INB4I use almost all of those things listed except for the Humic acid.. They’re part of what goes in with the myco dusts, trichoderma go hard but I am concerned they misspelled it
. These seem like really good products to bridge into LOS. This would make for a good little tea starter by itself. Damn you for piquing my interest in this company I thought more about silica, we could use that, it has a ton of uses and benefits as one would expect from something so abundant. I haven’t come across it shopping yet but now I’ll be on the lookout.
Peat Phreak
Well-Known Member
TPS is relatively new, I think. Based in Washington. They make organic and synthetic nutes.
Their Gold silica made a noticeable difference for me in peat. It makes the plant rubbery and pliable during early LST. Then later, it locks the branches in place and becomes very sturdy. Fat buds don't need extra support. It increases yield a little.
My branches were fairly weak before using silica. But peat isn't a good source of silica. Soil has a lot of Si that microbes can convert to silica. So maybe you don't need it for soil. I've seen a study with tomatoes in soil. Silica increased yield and made the plants more sturdy.
Their Gold silica made a noticeable difference for me in peat. It makes the plant rubbery and pliable during early LST. Then later, it locks the branches in place and becomes very sturdy. Fat buds don't need extra support. It increases yield a little.
My branches were fairly weak before using silica. But peat isn't a good source of silica. Soil has a lot of Si that microbes can convert to silica. So maybe you don't need it for soil. I've seen a study with tomatoes in soil. Silica increased yield and made the plants more sturdy.
And for plants, dandelion, S. Nettle, and horsetail fern are all high in Si.
Highya Guys,
The red petioles is a sign of low phosphorus. Very immobile, should be in soil at planting. Krissi has a lot of that - can't keep enough phosphorus at root level. I had that last year, as well. Doesn't let the buds get to their true potential size. But, I'm guessing not by a lot, because I had some huge buds last year, too. Happy Smokin'
The red petioles is a sign of low phosphorus. Very immobile, should be in soil at planting. Krissi has a lot of that - can't keep enough phosphorus at root level. I had that last year, as well. Doesn't let the buds get to their true potential size. But, I'm guessing not by a lot, because I had some huge buds last year, too. Happy Smokin'
I should say that the heating of the shells (egg, oyster, clam, sea) is really only needed if you're using the raw product as what you are trying to do is burn off any organic material that would later rot in the solution.The heating of the shells is definitely an outdoor activity as you won't want the smell in the house. (Ask me how I know.) But easily done on a BBQ or fire pit.
OTOH, if you're using the powdered stuff in a box no need to do that and you can get started right away as the rest of the process is an indoor activity.
Basically you fill a container about 10% with your processed shells/dust/flour and the rest of the way with vinegar. I use ACV, but the original version is brown rice vinegar.
So, no need to wait unless you have the actual shells off the beach.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Good to know. Mine is Gaia Green brand oyster flour so likely its already sterile then
Thanks
Peat Phreak
Well-Known Member
One way of making P more mobile in soil is to use citric acid. Oooops...excuse me, ORGANIC citric acid. Lactic acid works too.
Influence of organic acids on mobilization of inorganic and organic phosphorus in soil
Does anyone in this thread add lactobacillus to their soil?
Bode, did you find the JMS effective for releasing P?
Peat Phreak
Well-Known Member
I'm using this on my next run with peat and salts. Mostly to help manage media pH.
Makes tasty sour beer too.
Makes tasty sour beer too.
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- #597
Lactobacillus is in large concentrations in steer and horse manure both of which are considered excellent for cannabis’ purposes.
If you have a good myco colony in your soil P is easily broken down and delivered to the plant. Myco is the best organism at breaking P bonds. In soil you can’t put enough P globally in the mix without inhibiting myco growth, immobilizing the vast majority of it, and making life rough for the plant so instead I put it in layers/bands on the bottom and top of the container. This lets the myco spawn heavily in the container while still leaving large supplies of it for the plant to access when it’s ready.
What's a good fungal food to feed the myco? Will potato do it?
Great! I just made a micro JMS batch using just microbes from a little chunk from my aging leaf mold. It's held together by a bunch of thin white threads which I assume are myco. ?
I'm hoping to get those to multiply in the next couple of days. This is a new one for me as I usually make JMS with my worm castings.