Keffkas Coast Of Maine Line, TLO/LOS Style, Bagseed, Indoor Grow

[Keffka]

You can't really go wrong with a bit of good cal-mag and its early so you really want to not lose any days yet, so I wouldn't hesitate to try it.

If it fixes it then I would really research that blend as that would be 2 for 2.

It is very possible they have set you up to need a 2nd ingredient to compliment it.

Are you following any other journals using Stoningtons? I wonder if you're not alone?

How many PPMs you thinking? Rev said 50-60 in his, that seems like a lot.. I’m used to just ratioing it instead of measuring it.. I’ll hit it with a foliar tomorrow while I wait to water, not trying to create more problems with my fix lol

 

[Gee64]

@Gee64
Here’s the mix (plus 1 part EWC and 1 part perlite).. temperature could be the cause.. I haven’t been able to hit 80 in the room for a couple days (75ish) and have had to water closer to lights out. Water temps have been 70F

I’ll pickup a soil ph meter in the morning.

I’ll see what they look like tomorrow and bring it to the crew

I dont see any dolomite listed and its usually what is used for mag. Check their sales pitch... see if its only half of a grow system. Try the revs dolomite water out maybe? It would be cool to see if it works.

 

[Gee64]

lol we got to Rev's water simultaneously! Jinx!! You owe me a beer!

I would go 50-70ish ppm. Your room and water temps are certainly warm enough. I shoot for 75-78 degrees so your good.

 

[Gee64]

At 60ppm your about 40ppm cal and 20ppm mag so thats quite low. Could be your strain too, some Indicas are just piggies.

 

[Keffka]

I dont see any dolomite listed and its usually what is used for mag. Check their sales pitch... see if its only half of a grow system. Try the revs dolomite water out maybe? It would be cool to see if it works.

It’s got dolomite lime, I don’t know what’s with these sales ads and their site but the bag says it. Their SDS link is down so I hope they get back to me sooner than later.

about Revs water.

This is almost the same stuff that happened last time except last time I was already mid Veg before I went under LED.. The light avoidance is screaming Mag to me, there’s no reason it should be cupping leaves with my dialed in VPD and low ppfd.

 

[Krissi Carbone]

I'll be back to fully comment in response. Just wanted to let you know I was coming back when I had due time to properly conversate back to ya.....have a good night Keff and Gee! And hi @Bill284, hope I see you back here tomorrow! Give Howie a smooch!

 

[Gee64]

How many PPMs you thinking? Rev said 50-60 in his, that seems like a lot.. I’m used to just ratioing it instead of measuring it.. I’ll hit it with a foliar tomorrow while I wait to water, not trying to create more problems with my fix lol

I made 2 batches of Revs water, 1 with aquarium water and 1 with just dolomite, both as per Rev's ratios and then a 2nd bucket of dolomite water, all bubbled for 48 hours.

In all 3 instances I had to add a bit extra dolomite to get the ph right which took all 3 to 80ppm.

I figured if 80ppm meant the plants would eat the water then its ok because the ph was in check to accomodate, and if the rhizospere ate the water then the ph was irrelevent so either way it shouldn't be an issue.

I only had 3 durbans growing, all about 6 weeks into a 10 week flower. 1 was my final small pot test, a 1.66gal smart pot so It wasn't included but the other 2 in 6gal smart pots were used to try.

I gave one pure RO and the other got a rotation of all 3 buckets of Rev water. I noticed no difference between the 2 6gals.

I wasn't really expecting a huge plus to arise, I was more watching for a problem to arise. Both finished at 10 weeks and I couldn't see a difference at all, so I would say that 80ppm is safe, at least in larger pots.

The 1.66gal wasn't so lucky.... at 8 weeks it ran dry on nutes, which I actually consider a success as it only got RO water and fish ferts.

The myco survived to the end but the plant finished wispy and fluffy. It never got to do that sweet final chunking up.

Sorry girl.

Its still hanging untrimmed and will end up as worm food.

 

[StoneOtter]

I have mag def in my Rev LOS with young plants. Nothing but knowing I get it and preempting with epsom salts has made an almost perfect looking grow. Thought I had it fixed but I think not.

 

[Gee64]

I made 2 batches of Revs water, 1 with aquarium water and 1 with just dolomite, both as per Rev's ratios and then a 2nd bucket of dolomite water, all bubbled for 48 hours.

In all 3 instances I had to add a bit extra dolomite to get the ph right which took all 3 to 80ppm.

I figured if 80ppm meant the plants would eat the water then its ok because the ph was in check to accomodate, and if the rhizospere ate the water then the ph was irrelevent so either way it shouldn't be an issue.

I only had 3 durbans growing, all about 6 weeks into a 10 week flower. 1 was my final small pot test, a 1.66gal smart pot so It wasn't included but the other 2 in 6gal smart pots were used to try.

I gave one pure RO and the other got a rotation of all 3 buckets of Rev water. I noticed no difference between the 2 6gals.

I wasn't really expecting a huge plus to arise, I was more watching for a problem to arise. Both finished at 10 weeks and I couldn't see a difference at all, so I would say that 80ppm is safe, at least in larger pots.

The 1.66gal wasn't so lucky.... at 8 weeks it ran dry on nutes, which I actually consider a success as it only got RO water and fish ferts.

The myco survived to the end but the plant finished wispy and fluffy. It never got to do that sweet final chunking up.

Sorry girl.

Its still hanging untrimmed and will end up as worm food.

On a side note for the 1.66 gal, I still droughted it to see if an under fed plant would benefit, and it droughted textbook perfectat the trichome level but all the fan leaves, which were yellowing already from hunger, died in 4 or 5 days. Less trimming! lol

My take on that is sugar leaves can sustain a plant too.

The trich pics I posted a few days ago were from it, so if you have a failure thats too late to rescue, droughting will still up the resins.

 

[Keffka]

I'll be back to fully comment in response. Just wanted to let you know I was coming back when I had due time to properly conversate back to ya.....have a good night Keff and Gee! And hi @Bill284, hope I see you back here tomorrow! Give Howie a smooch!

You’re good Krissi take your time, you’ve got responsibilities Gee and I don’t lol.. It’s like when you finally get that promotion only to realize your heart is still in the field lol. Although I do suspect this comment was meant for the Gee spot

I made 2 batches of Revs water, 1 with aquarium water and 1 with just dolomite, both as per Rev's ratios and then a 2nd bucket of dolomite water, all bubbled for 48 hours.

In all 3 instances I had to add a bit extra dolomite to get the ph right which took all 3 to 80ppm.

I figured if 80ppm meant the plants would eat the water then its ok because the ph was in check to accomodate, and if the rhizospere ate the water then the ph was irrelevent so either way it shouldn't be an issue.

I only had 3 durbans growing, all about 6 weeks into a 10 week flower. 1 was my final small pot test, a 1.66gal smart pot so It wasn't included but the other 2 in 6gal smart pots were used to try.

I gave one pure RO and the other got a rotation of all 3 buckets of Rev water. I noticed no difference between the 2 6gals.

I wasn't really expecting a huge plus to arise, I was more watching for a problem to arise. Both finished at 10 weeks and I couldn't see a difference at all, so I would say that 80ppm is safe, at least in larger pots.

The 1.66gal wasn't so lucky.... at 8 weeks it ran dry on nutes, which I actually consider a success as it only got RO water and fish ferts.

The myco survived to the end but the plant finished wispy and fluffy. It never got to do that sweet final chunking up.

Sorry girl.

Its still hanging untrimmed and will end up as worm food.

I’m gonna have to do some more reading specific to calcium and magnesium.. there’s obviously something I’m overlooking about the way the plant uses both. I was 70% sure I could band it into the soil and alleviate the issues.

I have mag def in my Rev LOS with young plants. Nothing but knowing I get it and preempting with epsom salts has made an almost perfect looking grow. Thought I had it fixed but I think not.

This has gotta be a LED (or indoors) specific issue.. Something about the way the photosynthesis takes place inside over outside in relation to mag consumption. The outdoor grows I’ve been a part of, I’ve never seen Mag deficiencies in. I grew a sprout in pure coco with no aeration or anything for weeks outdoors and there was no issues. We grew small containers, large containers, in the ground, crappy soil, good soil, bottled nutes, no nutes, and I never once saw Mag.

The plant from my first journal had started outside in containers and had no issues until I moved inside. Within a week of going inside I was on here starting that first journal with that light avoidance, serrating, and Mag issues. The fact that you’re running into the same issues with a fully built out soil tells me it’s beyond just my medium.

I’ve seen Mag in other plants outdoors though.. I walk through a lot of yards and see a lot of plants, and I see Mag issues in certain plants that are lower to the ground. This is fascinating though.. anything that makes me question will make me intrigued.

 

[Keffka]

On a side note for the 1.66 gal, I still droughted it to see if an under fed plant would benefit, and it droughted textbook perfectat the trichome level but all the fan leaves, which were yellowing already from hunger, died in 4 or 5 days. Less trimming! lol

My take on that is sugar leaves can sustain a plant too.

The trich pics I posted a few days ago were from it, so if you have a failure thats too late to rescue, droughting will still up the resins.

There’s no doubt (in my mind) controlled droughting will give you some great results.. Resin and trichomes are part of its defensive/reproductive package to increase its chances of catching wayward pollen and protect itself from UV damage. Withholding water would signal to the plant it really need to turn up the production of both.

From what I saw last grow, the sugar leaves absolutely can sustain.. when I started losing fan leaves rapidly the plant kept going. It should’ve slowed down at the least but it didn’t. However when it came time to trim I could tell the sugars had been tapped, trimming was absurdly easy and quick. In some instances they’d pop right off with just a tap of the finger which was wild

 

[Gee64]

Hmmmm... my old mind doesn't always remember stuff but..... About 5 years ago I was in the market for an LED grow light so I did a lot of research at the time, so what I think I remember was from 5 years ago but..... When I was researching LED I seem to remember that the lack of IR in LEDs was causing cal/mag havoc and you had to fortify your soil with extra mag to circumvent it... I think.

At the time I stumbled onto Perfectsun LED lights which were the only quality looking LED that had IR diodes, and if I recall Neil at Perfectsun was really big on IR was essential.

Long story short I bought the Perfectsun Goliath with IR and in hindsight, I have never had a mag deficiency, only nitro deficiencies caused by mag from calcium getting too low, which was an easy fix once I got my worm farm.

Maybe this is a good place to start researching?

 

[Keffka]

Hmmmm... my old mind doesn't always remember stuff but..... About 5 years ago I was in the market for an LED grow light so I did a lot of research at the time, so what I think I remember was from 5 years ago but..... When I was researching LED I seem to remember that the lack of IR in LEDs was causing cal/mag havoc and you had to fortify your soil with extra mag to circumvent it... I think.

At the time I stumbled onto Perfectsun LED lights which were the only quality looking LED that had IR diodes, and if I recall Neil at Perfectsun was really big on IR was essential.

Long story short I bought the Perfectsun Goliath with IR and in hindsight, I have never had a mag deficiency, only nitro deficiencies caused by mag from calcium getting too low, which was an easy fix once I got my worm farm.

Maybe this is a good place to start researching?

Holy. Cats. I think you may be on to something. My light has a 660 peak and then severely drops off

There’s a supplemental UV-R bar that pops up at 700ish that I didn’t buy after talking with my buddy I bought it from but he was running fully synthetic coco so he likely would’ve never seen these problems

Oh man, @StoneOtter do you have your lights wavelength chart?

 

[StoneOtter]

Hmmmm... my old mind doesn't always remember stuff but..... About 5 years ago I was in the market for an LED grow light so I did a lot of research at the time, so what I think I remember was from 5 years ago but..... When I was researching LED I seem to remember that the lack of IR in LEDs was causing cal/mag havoc and you had to fortify your soil with extra mag to circumvent it... I think.

At the time I stumbled onto Perfectsun LED lights which were the only quality looking LED that had IR diodes, and if I recall Neil at Perfectsun was really big on IR was essential.

Long story short I bought the Perfectsun Goliath with IR and in hindsight, I have never had a mag deficiency, only nitro deficiencies caused by mag from calcium getting too low, which was an easy fix once I got my worm farm.

Maybe this is a good place to start researching?

Interesting! That went into the memory for mulling! @West Hippie do you have a Perfect sun rig I think, and how is your grow as far as mag concerns go if so? I don't know if hydro makes a difference?

 

[Gee64]

Interesting! That went into the memory for mulling! @West Hippie do you have a Perfect sun rig I think, and how is your grow as far as mag concerns go if so? I don't know if hydro makes a difference?

If I recall, Neil at Perfectsun grows in coco so its likely its for hydro too

 

[StoneOtter]

Holy. Cats. I think you may be on to something. My light has a 660 peak and then severely drops off

There’s a supplemental UV-R bar that pops up at 700ish that I didn’t buy after talking with my buddy I bought it from but he was running fully synthetic coco so he likely would’ve never seen these problems

Oh man, @StoneOtter do you have your lights wavelength chart?

Here's my Ks5000

And here for the defunct Nextlight Mega.

 

[Keffka]

Oh boy I think we’re on to something here @Gee64 Everything I keep pulling up is related to the heat from the IR waves being different but I don’t think it’s that simple since I’ve got my heat in an acceptable range. I think it may be more directly related to the vibrations of the IR waves themselves than the heat they produce.

 

[Gee64]

IR heat is a penetrating heat and has a big effect on vpd leaf temp so maybe add that to your thought patterns and see if it helps

 

[West Hippie]

Holy. Cats. I think you may be on to something. My light has a 660 peak and then severely drops off

There’s a supplemental UV-R bar that pops up at 700ish that I didn’t buy after talking with my buddy I bought it from but he was running fully synthetic coco so he likely would’ve never seen these problems

Oh man, @StoneOtter do you have your lights wavelength chart?

Interesting! That went into the memory for mulling! @West Hippie do you have a Perfect sun rig I think, and how is your grow as far as mag concerns go if so? I don't know if hydro makes a difference?

Hey guys Neil suggested we raise our calmag for his light the Goliath . I used the 1-0-0 calmag just shy of the manufacturer dosing .

 

[Gee64]

Hey guys Neil suggested we raise our calmag for his light the Goliath . I used the 1-0-0 calmag just shy of the manufacturer dosing .

Was that for coco or hydro or organics?