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- #601
Jon's Final Florida Journal For Real
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- #603
Yes, my Yoda does. You do too. Guess I have to start figuring out storage space and such.
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- #605
This picture shows you the distance to the light in the closet. The reason I post it is to show you what I mean when I claim that more colas = more dilution. This is especially applicable to the vertical growth and the growth during the stretch. If I had done nothing to this plant, she would stretch real close to the light and be vertically a beast. By taking that one main and basically dividing it into what I did means everything will be smaller. A silly point perhaps, just my opinion.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I grow sativas. I need to pinch to at least 8 mains to shorten them down by widening them out. And thats in an 8 foot tall tent.
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- #607
That’s in sweet spot range in my theory. This Strawberry Gorilla has nine mains. My theory I can’t prove is that the sweet spot is 8-20 depending on the strain. Assuming the goal is giant colas that will all be awesome vs less large colas, more of them, slightly less awesome, and so on as you make more and more tops. Watch how much of the middle growth I take from the clone. As she is she has a beautiful set of mains and a massive middle of buds that would be way too thick and produce way too much flarf.
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- #608
@Gee64, I have a working answer for an outdoor scrog for a 40 that would be pretty easy to rig and cheap as it gets. Your answer lies in PVC, and the shape of the scrog. A big round doesn’t work as it would have to be way too big in circumference and you’d never get to the middle. But a large plus sign shape would work great, eliminate the need to create any PVC curves, and house enough space for the bud while presenting a very almost natural way to do it. For a 40 you could place the pot in the dead center of the plus sign. You quad her out at whatever node you want to set as the height of the scrog. The screens consist of four 3’x6’ (or so) rectangular panels that can be made like a standard DIY PVC screen you’ve seen a million times. You make these panels and you wait on making the leg supports for the corners until you figure the height of the scrog. Once you know that, you cut the legs to size and they support the screens under your four corners. You set these four panels every 90 degrees off the center and use your quad as the guide to target them. Then fill each screen with a quarter of the quad. The size of the panels means you have easy access to all, the space in between the legs of the plus IS that access as well as to the plant, and each screen is manageable. The total square footage combined would support a 40s worth of buds.
That’s my plan and I’m sticking to it.
Lol.
That’s my plan and I’m sticking to it.
Lol.
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- #609
The first version got cut off, full version up now.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Thats actually a pretty darn good idea.
You could do a regular 8 top manifold and run 2 out each leg of the cross.
Call it Saint Jon's Cross
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- #612
Thanks @Azimuth, I can visualize it easy and not only do I think it would be effective, imagine how insanely cool an overhead shot in flower would be.Wow, that's a great idea @Jon ! Of course I can only dream about a plant that big. But I'd love to see it.
So I have a question for you: microbes are specific to certain elements, right? Like, microbes named x,y and z produce N. Microbes named a, b and c produce K. Isn’t that correct? And we (science) know which ones produce which, also correct? So now take a product like Great White or even look in the microbe list of a Fox Farms soil bag. Everything is in there. It seems all the products that contain myco contain it in non targeted large varieties of different types of microbes. So I’m wondering if anyone sells targeted microbes, and if not, why not? Can I buy a tiny Great White size container of microbes named bacillus cadillus (lol, or whatever) which only produce N, for example? Then if the plant needed N during growth you could add some of the specific microbes to the colony so that the % of crobes in the colony producing N would increase. See what I mean? Is this a silly thought?
That's a question for @Gee64 and @Keffka .
But I think it's more like the waiter analogy I gave you before. The plant controls what it's asking for but I don't think it also has to find the right microbes to deliver them. Rather it controls the ask with the type of root exudates it sends into the soil.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
Its not a silly thought at all. Those products are out there, but I have always bought into the broad spectrum solutions. In soil, myco, and microbes. My microbes are mainly from my EWC.
If your soil has all "aerobic beneficial microbes" in it, which is what they are referred to as, then between the plant and myco, the bribing will promote and demote the numbers of needed varieties for the stage of the grow that the plant is at.
That doesn't mean that using specialized microbes wouldn't be better, and maybe if you wanted world record cannabis you could benefit from this, but you would first have to learn what slant on microbes the specific strain you are growing would need.
Thats why I like to have one set of soil for my Durbans and another general useage soil collection. The only difference is one collection of recycled soil only grows Durban, and every so often it seems to go up a level but never backwards.
I attribute that to the myco and microbes becoming specialized, but really I have no idea scientifically. But it works.
Gee64
Well-Known Member
I once used a product called EM-1, which was some collection of superior microbes. It actually worked really well.
Those are supposedly from Japan and are patented, and the argument against them that I've heard, and makes sense to me, is that microbes specialize for the environment they originate in. So superior microbes from someplace else get outcompeted by local microbes anyway so spending extra bucks on something that won't actually make a long term difference is kind of a waste.
I getcha - but you do grow Korean style as well! @Wastei was scolding me yesterday (fairly) for spending on a bloom amendment when I could customise my own (he’s correct!) but the broad brush “macro” for the “microbes” probably isn’t all a waste?
Japanese and Korean are master growers of flowers and food generally. Ever seen a $150 Japanese tomato! I so nearly bought one too! Amazing.
Japanese and Korean are master growers of flowers and food generally. Ever seen a $150 Japanese tomato! I so nearly bought one too! Amazing.
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- #618
Is this because you have a love for the Durbans and grow them often enough that you have a specific soil for them? Which begs another question: some sativas are fairly close to Durbans and contain some of the same genetics. Do you think your specialized Durban soil has the ability to do just as well with other sativas even though, or maybe even because of, the specialization and the microbes “adapting” to it over time?
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Photos and Light Schedule Changes Question
I could use some feedback in this one guys as I haven’t, when growing photos, faced this particular question before - please and thanks in advance.
Because the tent began as an auto tent and was set to 20/4, and then I started the photos in the same tent, overlapping in early veg with the finish of the autos, all the now just photos left have vegged at 20/4 to this point.
I see that they begin to droop at night not at 2 am lights out but more like midnight. This tells me that they do not need 20 hours of light and that in fact with these particular plants, 18/6 would be better.
So my question is, is going from 20/4 to 18/6 in one bump, simply change my timer by two hours, safe and all that? I don’t see why it wouldn’t be with that numerical change. If it was 18/6 to 16/8 I was asking about I’d have more concern, for example, but 18/6 is still so far from 12/12 I would think it would be fine. That two hour bump from 20/4 will more likely make them happier, yes?
I could use some feedback in this one guys as I haven’t, when growing photos, faced this particular question before - please and thanks in advance.
Because the tent began as an auto tent and was set to 20/4, and then I started the photos in the same tent, overlapping in early veg with the finish of the autos, all the now just photos left have vegged at 20/4 to this point.
I see that they begin to droop at night not at 2 am lights out but more like midnight. This tells me that they do not need 20 hours of light and that in fact with these particular plants, 18/6 would be better.
So my question is, is going from 20/4 to 18/6 in one bump, simply change my timer by two hours, safe and all that? I don’t see why it wouldn’t be with that numerical change. If it was 18/6 to 16/8 I was asking about I’d have more concern, for example, but 18/6 is still so far from 12/12 I would think it would be fine. That two hour bump from 20/4 will more likely make them happier, yes?
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- #620
A word on a sponsor…
I had a DM conversation with the Remo folks this evening about the scrog. They’ve been paying attention. And to my complete surprise and glee, this evening I got an unsolicited message offering nothing but help.
We agreed not to share parts of the topic only because they’re irrelevant and may only inspire argument. But the one part they pointed out (which they are 100% correct about!) I will share is that it appears I am overwatering the scrog a little bit. They very clearly explained it to me according to their eyes, and I agree wholeheartedly.
Simple fix, throttle down the watering frequency.
I post this to simply toss out a prop for a very responsive sponsor (which we all appreciate) who pays more attention to our grows sometimes than you may think. Unsolicited assistance from “the source” if you will is always appreciated and worthy of note in my book.
Thanks Remo!!!
I had a DM conversation with the Remo folks this evening about the scrog. They’ve been paying attention. And to my complete surprise and glee, this evening I got an unsolicited message offering nothing but help.
We agreed not to share parts of the topic only because they’re irrelevant and may only inspire argument. But the one part they pointed out (which they are 100% correct about!) I will share is that it appears I am overwatering the scrog a little bit. They very clearly explained it to me according to their eyes, and I agree wholeheartedly.
Simple fix, throttle down the watering frequency.
I post this to simply toss out a prop for a very responsive sponsor (which we all appreciate) who pays more attention to our grows sometimes than you may think. Unsolicited assistance from “the source” if you will is always appreciated and worthy of note in my book.
Thanks Remo!!!
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