Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

don't know how much hair you got but if you spread human hair around that will help deter them waskily wabbits moth balls too but its hard to get them to spread their legs apart and cut them off:)
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

Hey jon, girls are looking great in and out.

Hope you get rid of your little critter, and good luck on your cloning experiment.
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

Thanks HMG:Namaste:Hopefully the critter ridder and the urine do the job, so far ive only lost 1 full plant and some lower growth on a couple of others, I might just tie my dogs up back there at night:)

Happens all the time....the dogs are your best remedy...put a couple out there if you have lots of coyotes.....I have seen piles of plants that ground squirrels killed, bro put a shotgun at strategic locations....and leave the dead ones visible. Lookin good jon, reinds me very much of home. You know, if you get nervous about mold at the end you could put big fans out there and I bet they would be fine....I mean those big 3 footers....you could get by with 2, probly 150 bucks apiece.!
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

lmao..problem is my dogs are never tied up so they would eat the carcasses, Kita the big blond dog catches rabbits and eats them all the time, partriges too, every once inwhile I ll find a big patch of feathers in my yard.she catches them in the bush and then brings them home to eat, wish she would just eat them where she catches them:)
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

once the autos are done I ll put the 6 mil poly back on that frame and put all the photoperiods under it, im surrounded by forrest here with lots of maple and pine in it so pm and mold are a constant concern.Im not sure if the fans would help, would'nt that just blow the spores right into the patch? The problem with Botritis is you dont know you have it until its to late, it starts inside the nugs and works its way out, I almost cried when I found it last season and then it was the mad dash to get them down asap but I still lost over half the crop.This year was a really late spring so im hoping for a really late summer.
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

once the autos are done I ll put the 6 mil poly back on that frame and put all the photoperiods under it, im surrounded by forrest here with lots of maple and pine in it so pm and mold are a constant concern.Im not sure if the fans would help, would'nt that just blow the spores right into the patch? The problem with Botritis is you dont know you have it until its to late, it starts inside the nugs and works its way out, I almost cried when I found it last season and then it was the mad dash to get them down asap but I still lost over half the crop.This year was a really late spring so im hoping for a really late summer.

Without the extended periods of moisture the molds can't grow. A coupla common prbs are the mold, and the branches breaking when it rains or the wind blows too hard. I have only seen the mold when things aren't quite dry when bagged. You know you can't have 700 glass jars hangin around, burping and such. Sometimes...especially a large harvest, which there are usually more minds involved in the operation, there is a lot of scrambling to get the shit in during that peak window, I've seen a hundred pounds dumped in the compost pile, probly just the result of being overworked and miscommunication.
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

By the way Jon, down here(Colorado, USA I'm sure) we have a product called Liquid Fence...It works well but so does Cougar Urine but man it stinks!!!
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

Hi Hiker, with air layering your just scraping the outer skin off, their is 3 layers of stem, the outer green layer that you scrape off, then their is a harder layer that would need cutting through, its this harder layer and the inner layer that continues to feed the rest of the stem, the outer layer sort of just protects the inner layer, its the same when 2 branches rub together or you use ties and it scratches the outer layer, it just then dries up at the damaged part and forms a slightly harder layer at the damaged part, just like super cropping,

with super cropping your actually damaging all 3 layers, this then slows down the nutes and water to the part past the super cropped, this then means the lower parts of the plant are getting a lot more nutes so go into a sort of rapid growth while the super cropped area repairs, once it repairs regular growth continues to that branch that was damaged,

so air layering does not limit the nutes of water going to the leaves or stem, if just opens up the outer layer so it can be placed in the dark and allow roots to grow, roots will grow even without rooting gel using this method,

cutting slits all the way through might cause problems if rooting hormone got fed into the inner part as it could rot that stem, so its really just the outer green layer you scrape back, the way i did it was cut 2 circles around the stem about an inch apart then peel back the outer skin and use hormone and cover,

the plant continues to grow as normal at the damaged part,
you just leave it rooting until the medium is full of roots then remove from the stem below the roots and transplant to a pot, their will be some transplant shock but no more than transplanting normal clones, i suggested jon try this method due to the difficulty he was having, as i had similar problems with clones dying for a certain sativa strain i used air cloning and it gave me viable clones.

syringe is best to use to water or just open a small gap at the top so you can pour water in, it needs to be kept dark at all times, allowing light in will just allow the damaged area to heal and no roots will be formed, total dark is needed, or their abouts,

also i had a 2ltr dwc hempie growing and i had a fungus gnat problem so i covered the top of my hempie pot with newspaper as the flies loved the hempie, as it was watered via the res i did not need to remove the paper for a couple of weeks, when i removed the paper their was spikey roots with hanging smaller roots growing out of the stem, the complete stem that was in the dark, about 2inches of stem was covered in hard spikey roots and soft regular roots, these was growing in the air and in no medium, their should be pics in my gallery so ill try and find them, so it seems roots will grow in any moist dark area, their was no hormone or growing medium for it to grow in, so i guess it was down to the dark moist environment,

so from my experience roots seem to grow in any dark humid conditions even without hormones or grow medium, i had about 10 roots growing directly sideways out of the stem of a hempie then smaller roots was growing down into the growing medium, this was after about 2 wees of having newspaper taped over the top of the pot,

so i think jon should see results around week 2, roots will grow before then but you wont notice them, when i did it i used compost wrapped in clingfilm, i wet a bit of compost and squashed it over the stem id say about the size of an egg, then wrapped with cling film to keep it damp and hold the compost to the stem, i then covered with a small cardboard box to stop any light getting in, i found its best to just keep the medium slightly moist, you dont want it soaking wet as the branch will just rot away and mould will form,

so keep it moist, let it slightly dry out but not totally dry then water and leave it a few days, having it wrapped will keep it moist for a few days or even longer,

soil layering is another option and works the same but you just rest a small pot on top of the growing medium so that when you scrape a branch back you can then pull the branch low enough and have it resting in the new pot and cover with compost then water like a regular pot, doing this though you wont know if the roots have grown until you check a couple of weeks later, its just more work doing it this way and you risk knocking the pot over,
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

lmao..problem is my dogs are never tied up so they would eat the carcasses, Kita the big blond dog catches rabbits and eats them all the time, partriges too, every once inwhile I ll find a big patch of feathers in my yard.she catches them in the bush and then brings them home to eat, wish she would just eat them where she catches them:)

I had a half Alaskan malamute half St. Bernard, his name was Omar. He ate things too. A neighbor shot the states record buck. He pulled the 200 plus pound buck down and tried to drag it home. It got stuck on a tree so he went back for the prize cape and dragged it home. When I looked out he was on the patio with his paws on the rack with the biggest shit eating bloody grin you can imagine... man the neighbor was pissed. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

with jons mold concerns a good movement of air is all you need, make sure no leaves are resting on other leaves, if you have 2 plants close to each other and the leaves touch then if you look you will notice that when you pull the leaves apart they will be wet, so remove any leaves that are resting on each other,

now mold can start at soil level, a lot of growers make sure they got fans blowing on the canopy of their plants, but having moving air at the bottom of the plants is also important, probably more so in a soil grow so might not be an issue with some growers,

so good air flow will stop mold and fresh air flow, just blowing the same air around will not really help much as it will just keep blowing the humid air around and mold will grow, as long as you got fresh air coming in and plenty of air flow through the plants then you will be ok, all i use is 12v computer fans out of desktop computers, i repair computers so had many of these fans, so i wired several up to some 12v chargers and had a few of them blowing above the plants to move any air in the top of the growm room, then i had another few blowing on the canopy and into the plants, then i had 2 blowing across the bottom of the plants just above pot level so it was blowing on the soil,

so with a soil free grow id say plenty of fresh air is vital, growing in confined space and stale air will be perfet for mould issues, then just make sure no leaves are touching each other, i have found if its the leaves of the same plant then it dont tend to leave wet patches but if 2 plants touch each other and 1 leaf rests on top of another then this will cause a wet moist leaf and if not sorted mold will grow,

late in flower is the worst time for mould and the most likely time to have mould, im sure you know all this all ready but thought id post it for new growers and growers who are unsure of whats best, so if you have a plant covered in buds id say your best option would be to open the plant up by using ties or pipe cleaners, just so your seperate the buds, all you need to do is make sure air can flow around the buds
then you will be mould free, for growers growing in a confined space like small cupboard then make sure you got a vent at the top to let hot humid air out and a vent at the bottom to let cool air in, the hot air leaving the room will suck cool air in through the bottom, all though having a fan on each end will be a huge benefit,

ive had mold problems but mine was because my compost was to hot, it was beneficial mold so not an issue, but all i did was move my fans and problem solved, mold went away and no further issues,

as for rabbits, well if you cant stop them coming in the garden then dig about a 6 inch groov around each plant or the growing area then go buy some of that cheap chicken wire, push it in the ground about 6 inch and have it about 1ft above ground all the way around the plant, this will at least stop them getting to the plants, i know fencing a whole garden is a pain so just fence round the plants with that cheak chicken wire, or i guess you could make something out of wood or old pallets, dogs are ok if they have access to the garden at all times, but i know my dog loves these plants, he has helped himself to seedlings when i turn my back, if i leave a leaf lying around he comes and eats it,

so my dog would do more damage that a rabbit, or he leaves is the stem then looks at you as if it say it wasnt him and someone else did it, problem was he had a bit of a leaf stuck on his mouth, so he couldnt really deny it, but he does eat the odd leaf if i trim a plant, he even digs them out the bin if i dont put the rubbish out quick enough,
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

re the air layering;

I thought you were supposed to split the stem a bit longways and put a small sliver like a toothpick to keep it open and then wrap it up with moist media
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

theirs a couple of ways, i used the method in the european grow bible,

basically in my grow book it said choose the part you want to clone, then cut 2 cirlces all the way around the stem about an inch apart or slightly bigger, then peel back the outer later to reveal the moist inner layer that protects the hard core of the stem, so you have about an inch of slightly bigger of bare stem all the way around the stem, then it said put rooting powder on it but i use gel so put a bit of rooting gel on the bare section and covered with compost, in the grow book it said use rock wool or some other product but i had none and grow in compost so used that, then wrapped in film and kept dark and moist but not soaking wet as it will just rot the branch if its soaking wet all the time, so just moist is best.

the method worked for me every time, the first time it failed because i thought i was blocking the light but some was still leaking in and the stem just repaired itself, so from then on i squashed compost around it, then wrapped in cling film and then i cut some cardboard to make a sort of box to totally block the light to that part then i just wated it about every 2 days or 3 depending on how quick it dried out, but with it wrapped it stays moist a while,

the method in the vid seemed less precise as in measuring the gap but in theory it should work the same, the idea is to have roots growing out all around the stem, this is why you remove a section of stem, i removed it all the way around but scraping just one side off should give the same results,

all it said in my guide was once you had removed the outer cover it said if the clone stem was small and would bend the support it with toothpick and tape or some kind of tie making sure you dont squash the stem, i think slitting all the way through might cause problems if anything seeped inside the stem, could cause rot further down the plant if the stem is hollow in middle, all depends on how big the stem of the clone is,

if i get chance tomorrow ill do air layering on one of my plants and take pics of exactly how i did it, it failed the first time due to light getting in and the plant just repaired itself, but keeping it totally dark and slightly moist is the goal, im pretty sure this would work every time without rooting hormone,

so when im not busy tomorrow ill take some pics and do a step by step air layering guide and put it in my sig, the method jon used is pretty similar to what i did but mine was more precise and a bit neater but both jons and my method will give the same results, ive not heard of splitting the stem and use toothpick to keep it open, its not something i have seen a video of, if you know of a video hash then drop me the link and ill do 2 air layering using both methods then i can see which method works best, i found the method i used which is pretty much the same that jon used produced roots around week 2 but i left it on the plant till the compost or growing medium was full of roots, then i transplanted and just suppoted the clone with stick and it took to the growing medium and grew like any other clone, it just allows you to take bigger clones,

this would be perfect for a sog grow, if you had a really big mother say a monster croppped with 200 plus branches then using this method means you might not need as much veg time before flipping to flower if any at all, id just give it time to root and new growth to start to make sure its taken, but i could not clone a purple widow, they seemd to root but die not long after, i lost around 20 clones by using my normal method, then i remember i read about air layering in my grow book and copid it to the letter, it then worked after i made sure it stayed dark and moist,

you dont want it soaking wet, just water it and leave it a couple of days but dont totally let it dry out,

ill give you the name of the grow book, give me 2min to find it then you might be able to find a copy online to have a look at the method i used, i could not find the exact method i used on videos but instead of scraping the outher layer off i cut 2 circles around the stem about 1.5inch apart then peeled off the outer laer, in my grow book it says you are basically removing the bark that protects the inner moist layers,
i think it said their is 3 layers it did name them in my book, let me dig it out and ill tell you exactly what i did and what the layers are called, but as long as you remove the outer layer then roots will grow as long as its dark,

@Hash, if you can find a guide with the method you mention then give me a shout with the link or video and ill give it a try while i try my method then i can see what works best, if we can figure out which method works quickest then we know what method to use, but i think the more outer layer you remove the more places roots can form, i know from mine that roots grew out all the way around, basically they grew out of all the parts i had stripped back, its why when i take normal clones that i scrape a tiny bit of the outer layer off from the bottom of the clone, i find this also helps clones produce roots as its not just the very end thats exposed, having some stem exposed seems to encourage root growth,

let me find my book and ill give you the name, i think edd rosenthail wrote it, i could be wrong i have read that many, it says he was called mr big, goes into detail about what to say if you get arrested and all that crap, its a damn good book got some very good info in it,
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

1663367972583.png
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

a brief description from someone who read the book, the grower was mr big in the uk, he now leaves in amsterdam and grows legally, he was in all the news and news papers when he was busted he was growing 2.5million pound per year, he was actually growing more than that but he only got caught with that amount,

he wrote the book while in prison,
anyway let me try and find the air layering section and ill put a copy here,
here is what another reader said about the book
This is the best cannabis book I have read! Mel Thomas is an ex commercial grower who served time for cultivating over £2.5 million pounds worth of cannabis in the UK! He has written a very informative and interesting book, that not only explains the history and uses of cannabis but also clearly explains how to set up and then manage any size of garden. I liked the fact that the book did not feel artificially padded like some of the US books, and the author focuses on what you really need to know to grow. The book contains excellent images and diagrams covering both Hydroponic and soil grows. If you're serious about growing then this book or one by Mel Frank, will set you on the right track.

another reader wrote the following, just give me chance to find an online copy of the air layering section then i can show pics and all details,
This is a good book because it was written by a grower who was busted for producing 1 ton of skunk plants. This book explains how to grow 1 ton of skunk plants. That alone is worth reading. So if you want to learn how to grow 1 ton of skunk plants then look no further that the book which describes 1 ton of skunk plant cultivation. What more can we say than that?
 
re: Jon705's Multi Strain HPS LED Hybrid System

just finding the air layering info in the book,

but i just read this, their is something called water curing which says its used to remove a lot of stuff out the plant but as thc i not water soluble that it remains on the plant while all the other stuff leaves the buds and plant, if anyones interested i can show you a copy of how it says to do it, sounds like it produces better tasting buds as it removes a lot of the crap out the bud.

also it mentions something about polyploids cannabis, im just reading about this, sounds very interesting, increases the thc levels from what i can tell and increases bud size, im just reading more, ill post all this info in my journal so i dont hog up space in jons

read this, ill post all i can in my journal,
I would estimate that the THC content of polyploids to be well over 30% and maybe up to 40% if grown correctly. Fully grown mother tetraploid plants have been known to sell for $10,000. Clones have been known to sell for $1,000 in the past compared to the standard $5-7 range for diploid clones. Tetraploids are extremely difficult to clone (10-20%) unless special care is taken. The end product is far superior to anything commercially available and even compared to excellent connosseur diploid product due to the doubling of THC.
Polyploid Traits:
Ducksfoot
Four sets of leaves at the nodes
Stretched (doubled) flowers
Dark green leaves
Double bud sites
Heavy feeder
High water consumption
Thick meristem
Pistil discoloration (pink pistils under black light)
Extreme potency
Vigour and extra growth on first generation
 
Back
Top Bottom