Copper absorbed by the plant is completely different from copper sprayed on the plant. Burning and inhaling copper isn't something I would do, but they're your lungs. Stuff safe for edible plants is not the same on something burned and inhaled.
Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?
- Thread starter Lovie
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- #302
Rinsing it off or a bud wash won't remove it? I don't want to do anything that is going to hurt the lungs......I am just tired of removing so many leaves every day from the septoria.
No. Sprays work their way into the buds in a way that makes it difficult to wash off completely. You're going to have to take all the fans off eventually anyway, so take them off now so they won't get septoria.
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- #304
I caused the mold issue by pinching off leaves infected with leaf septoria. When I pinched them off I didn't pinch the leaf's stem all the way to the branch. It had been raining for almost 2 weeks straight. The remaining leaf stems I left behind decayed and caused whatever was around them to mold because of all the wetness. I have been dealing with leaf septoria for a couple of months now. It was under control by removing infected foliage and spraying with copper fungicide. I didn't keep up with spraying the copper fungicide and leaf removal because of the rain which I am sure added to the problem. I was under the impression copper fungicide was safe, but now I am learning it is not. I found this stuff called Crop Control by Trifecta. It is mostly natural stuff. I tried it when I first found the mold. I was spraying it in the rain and before removing infected foliage. I will give it another try now it is dry out and I have removed the infected foliage. I haven't seen any mold since I removed the infected sections. I tied plant ribbon where I removed the bud rot so I could monitor it to make sure it didn't spread. If I see any more mold or if they start calling for rain it will be an early harvest.
I don't know what percentage of the "inert ingredients" is isopropyl alcohol, but at even pretty low concentrations it will melt your trichomes.
I would take off a tester, get a scope picture of it, spray it with that Trifecta, let it dry, and see what the results are to know if it's safe.
I would take off a tester, get a scope picture of it, spray it with that Trifecta, let it dry, and see what the results are to know if it's safe.
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- #306
I did take all the fan leaves off the plant that didn't receive any light interference. On the other ones I have taken all the big and medium fan leaves that are on the larger side off. Since I am unsure how far the plants that received the light interference are in the flowering process I didn't know if it would be okay to remove all the fan leaves yet. Based on the trichome pics I took do you have an idea how much longer they have before the trichomes are milky white?
I would wait at least 5-7 days before checking again.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Some strains don't show ripeness by the trics. Taste test is ultimately the most accurate method. Generally with fully headed and one or two clouded like the pics, 1-2 more weeks for a heady high. Highest THC with some couch lock 3-4.
The reason we watch PH is because the minerals ionize relative to the PH. There ionization determines how easily the plant can absorb them. Copper can be drawn in by he plant between 5.5 and 6.5 PH. Plant will draw in what it needs and the rest sits on the leaf. When the PH drops into 4-5.5 range the copper forces its way into the cells whether the plant likes it or not. The toxic level of copper will be carried throughout the plant including buds. Spraying the leaves with PH copper will kill the fungus but the plant will not absorb it unless it needs it.
Spraying anything water based on the buds them self is a bad idea. Even if the fungicide is completely safe to smoke the water is the issue. Water blocks O2 from the bud. Fungus thrives in low O2 conditions. This is why bud rot starts in the center of a bud and works it's way out. There is no air in the center because moisture and leaves are blocking air flow. As intheshed mentioned, trying to rinse all of the copper residue out of all the nooks and cranny's would be tough. The dose makes the poison. trace amounts are ok but everyone's tolerance is different. My portable brass/copper pipe is over 30 years old now.
3-3.5Lbs is a fair estimate for the plants. Buds fatten up in the last few weeks. My earlier estimate was making a point of a worst case scenario. If the buds stopped growing and just focused on ripening. Then you cut in and find bud rot hiding in the center of a lot of the buds. Point was that you are a long way from considering this a lost harvest.
The reason we watch PH is because the minerals ionize relative to the PH. There ionization determines how easily the plant can absorb them. Copper can be drawn in by he plant between 5.5 and 6.5 PH. Plant will draw in what it needs and the rest sits on the leaf. When the PH drops into 4-5.5 range the copper forces its way into the cells whether the plant likes it or not. The toxic level of copper will be carried throughout the plant including buds. Spraying the leaves with PH copper will kill the fungus but the plant will not absorb it unless it needs it.
Spraying anything water based on the buds them self is a bad idea. Even if the fungicide is completely safe to smoke the water is the issue. Water blocks O2 from the bud. Fungus thrives in low O2 conditions. This is why bud rot starts in the center of a bud and works it's way out. There is no air in the center because moisture and leaves are blocking air flow. As intheshed mentioned, trying to rinse all of the copper residue out of all the nooks and cranny's would be tough. The dose makes the poison. trace amounts are ok but everyone's tolerance is different. My portable brass/copper pipe is over 30 years old now.
3-3.5Lbs is a fair estimate for the plants. Buds fatten up in the last few weeks. My earlier estimate was making a point of a worst case scenario. If the buds stopped growing and just focused on ripening. Then you cut in and find bud rot hiding in the center of a lot of the buds. Point was that you are a long way from considering this a lost harvest.
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- #309
I think you misunderstood the point I was trying to make, or maybe I wasn't being clear. Sometimes I rush and don't proofread. I was complaining about the amount of time it was taking to go through my plants and remove mold, fan leaves and leaves infected with septoria. I was saying the problem was I had pounds of weed to go through, not ounces.....it would have been easier to go through ounces.
My 3lbs estimate was being conservative. As long as I don't run into anymore big issues I think it is going to easily be 3.5lbs if not more. My Sour Diesels are full of dense buds and they don't look like they are even close to being done. Pistol hairs are still white
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- #310
They advertise it is safe for cannabis bud rot so if it does cause damage I am asking for a refund.
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- #311
I have an off-topic question. I do not know what strain one of my plants is. My husband brought it home one night and he didn't think to ask what it was. This is the plant I flash-dried a bud off of. Everyone who tried it loved it. I would love to figure out a way to preserve some of this plant since I don't know what strain it is I can't order some seeds. From what I have read if you are going to take a clone from a plant in flower (monster cropping) it should be done in week 2 or 3 of flower.......which I am way past. I was also reading that at harvest you can leave enough foliage behind that you can reveg the entire plant. Only thing is with reveging the entire plant like that you end up with low yields. I was wondering if I revegged the plant long enough to take some clones from it once it is back in veg would the clones also be low yielding? I was also contemplating at harvest leaving some of the branches and try to get the plant to hermi so I can get some seeds. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
what product are you referring to? can't be anything with copper. that is a known toxic in near any form.
I was thinking that if you will have time to take the fans leaves off after harvest then you have time to take them off over a few days now.
Or is someone else going to chop and harvest? Processing 3.5+ pounds of weed takes longer than you seem to have based on the descriptions of your free time!
Or is someone else going to chop and harvest? Processing 3.5+ pounds of weed takes longer than you seem to have based on the descriptions of your free time!
Trust but verify. Snip a tester and follow my description above. Then you don't ruin your harvest and get $10 back for the bottle.
You can bring the plant in after harvest and reveg it in the pot at 20/4. Don't take off all the branches and leaves so there will be something to grow. I'm sure there are YouTube videos on revegging after harvest.
I believe she's referring to the oil spray ingredients pictured above.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Trifecta is just an essential oil mix. Safe for the plant and buds but it will change the flavor. But again, the key to using it is low humidity and air movement. Anything you put on the buds that is not dried out quickly will just make the problem worse in the long run. You also need a week or two of no oils before harvest. Fresh essential oil will hinder the drying process.
I have tried leaving a few branches to reveg with long days after harvest a few times but it has never worked. Removing more than 1/3 of the plant so close to end of life is too much of a shock. I have never raised the humidity like I do with clones, so maybe that would help..? New branches will only grow where you still have a leaf. Maybe sacrifice a lower leafy branch to try cloning. I have cloned many plants from branches a few weeks before harvest. 4 leafy nodes and an angled cut at the 5th.
I have tried leaving a few branches to reveg with long days after harvest a few times but it has never worked. Removing more than 1/3 of the plant so close to end of life is too much of a shock. I have never raised the humidity like I do with clones, so maybe that would help..? New branches will only grow where you still have a leaf. Maybe sacrifice a lower leafy branch to try cloning. I have cloned many plants from branches a few weeks before harvest. 4 leafy nodes and an angled cut at the 5th.
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- #315
When I first posted this question there are 2 things I didn't think about that will make revegging difficult, if not impossible. I already stripped the fan leaves off this plant and it is in a 50-gallon container. Bringing it inside to get it to reveg will be very difficult. At harvest can I leave a few branches and try to get the plant to hermi and pollinate itself?
I also just had another thought come to mind, it probably won't work but I am going to throw it out there anyway. At harvest can I leave a few branches, bump up the nitrogen to help with new foliage growth and other than that just leave it outside and care for it. Come spring let it reveg when the days get long again?
Some of that depends on the weather (is it warm there during the winter?) but you would need to put a light over it to provide it with close to 20 hours of light a day, every day. Not a nearby utility light but something that will tell the plant that it's summer again.
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- #317
We have cold winters. That was one of the reasons I figured it wouldn't work. I also never heard of someone keeping a plant in flower all winter and allowing it to reveg in spring when the sun told it to.
They're genetically programmed to die after flowering because they're reproductive job is done (they're annuals). The seeds over-winter where they land and sprout come the warm spring rains. We can mess with that but they still need livable weather to do it.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
In flower they do not produce the requirement for longevity. Throw shorter photo productive days and low temps into that equation and it has no chance of survival. Through late, not end, of flower the plant is drawing up P and producing hormones. This combination promotes both flower and root growth. A nonwoody branch with enough leaves can be cloned. Carefully snip off 80% of each bud to stunt there growth. Angle cut next to the 5th node with a clean sharp blade. Apply root hormone and set in PH cal mag water. 80RH and temp with 18 to 20 hours of light per day. I would take 4 cuttings to increase your chance at one healthy plant.
many good answers: here is a good product that takes care of all insects. mold, ect "Lost Coast Plant Therapy" this stuff works but is issue is environmental that's another issue thats hard to fix - (can get sample for $5.00) relative new company