Our winters might be getting warmer
But it seems we get bigger swings in temperature
Pretty sure last couple years even Texas got a taste of our arctic vortex
You just got to be ready for those couple days when you can do your shaking
Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?
- Thread starter Lovie
- Start date
But it seems we get bigger swings in temperature
Pretty sure last couple years even Texas got a taste of our arctic vortex
You just got to be ready for those couple days when you can do your shaking
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- #222
I wish we would have had this conversation sooner. I believe I over-dried my weed from my inside plants. From what I read online you are supposed to keep the humidity between 50 to 60% and temp between 60 to 70.
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- #223
I actually don't want it to ripen too much more. That is what has me worried. Everyone loved the high from the buds I flash-dried the other day. I don't want it to turn into couch lock.More than it can in 1 or 2.
As long as it's drinking it's ripening.
Jar the big buds up with the small buds & in a couple days check
The moisture should come out of the middle of the big buds to moisten your small buds
If not you can add a moist stem or piece of bread to bring it back up as a last resort
Did you get some hydrometers
budnoob3
Well-Known Member
Just to add a little, the reason I target 50% rh and 70° range for drying is because rule of thumb is to be 10% below target RH while drying so as not to dry too fast and 70° tends to be in range of what most experienced mentors said I should target. This has always worked well for me so I’ve stuck with it. I’d love to understand the science behind it better if someone knows and shares
Target for me was always 62% humidipaks for long term until I discovered 58% which I preferred for personal use once I found them…
If you leave them long enough in an environment lower than your target you are guaranteed to end up with a moisture level lower than your target.
50 to 60 is a broad range as 50% RH flowers won't cure. I would target 55-60 and make sure to buck them off the stems when the RH in the drying area is close to 70%.
Then what are you waiting for?
budnoob3
Well-Known Member
In this regard, I’m not just leaving in 50% ish rh long term; as soon as my branches pass the snap test which I check daily starting at day 3, I moved to mason jars as soon as branch snapped instead of bending still. Then I did the burping regimen for at least 4-5 weeks in jars before introducing humidipak. This is my first run trying grove bags to avoid the burping regimen but I will be watching closely and still using mason and humidipak for special reserves and a backup just in case. I have enough oil and reserves so not too concerned but always keep a fail safe option for anything new I try so as not to lose all my hard work for any given run, playground or not
And to be clear, I think most if not all of us has thrown samples in oven or other such unrecommended option for a quick dry to get a taste even though less than ideal. But if you look up recommendations you will find a range of 45% to 55% rh being acceptable for best results so I’m right there in middle…
budnoob3
Well-Known Member
And correct, target is not 50% for cure, target is between 58% - 62% for cure hence the snap test which typically won’t succeed until just above 62% when you start burping to get down to 62 range …
Sorry, I wasn't criticizing you budnoob, I was answering Lovie's question.
Some folks read those recommendations without realizing that that's just a starting point. Personally I dry at whatever is ambient in my neighborhood, which is usually in the mid to high 60s!
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- #230
It's a big plant. It will probably take all day to thoroughly inspect for mold, remove mold, trim, wash and hang. Everyday a monkey wrench is thrown into my plans. Today it was a sick kid. When I picked my kid up from school I knew she was going to throw up. I pulled over twice on the way home, rolled down her window, unhooked her seat beat and instructed her if she was going to throw up to do it outside the vehicle. She swore she wasn't. The minute we pulled into the driveway she got sick. Of course she didn't stick her head out the window. She got sick between the seat and center console. After that all she wanted was mommy. Once I finally got her settled and feeling better I had to clean my truck.
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- #231
I ordered some Grove Bags. Are hygrometers still necessary if using Grove Bags?Jar the big buds up with the small buds & in a couple days check
The moisture should come out of the middle of the big buds to moisten your small buds
If not you can add a moist stem or piece of bread to bring it back up as a last resort
Did you get some hydrometers
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- #232
I have a couple of questions before beginning to harvest my plant.
1. This plant has several side branches that are 2.5 to 3.5 feet long. I guess you can say I trained this plant using the lollipop method. The top 10 to 15 inches of the branches are covered in buds and the remaining part of the branches are bare. I am hanging them in a tent to dry. How much branch should I leave after the bud ends? A couple of inches to have something to clip onto or more than that?
2. I have a few branches that the top 5 to 7 inches of buds appear to be in good shape, followed by 1 to 2 inches of bud rot, followed by a few more inches of good bud. Is the entire branch no good because of the 1 to 2 inches of bud rot in the center or can I remove the bud rot and buds around that section?
3. I know I am supposed to remove anything not covered in trichomes. There are some large sugar leaves that protrude beyond the buds that have trichomes on them. Should I cut them to the bud or just the ends that do not have trichomes?
If there is something I am not asking about that you think I should know please mention that too. Thank you guys for all your help!
1. This plant has several side branches that are 2.5 to 3.5 feet long. I guess you can say I trained this plant using the lollipop method. The top 10 to 15 inches of the branches are covered in buds and the remaining part of the branches are bare. I am hanging them in a tent to dry. How much branch should I leave after the bud ends? A couple of inches to have something to clip onto or more than that?
2. I have a few branches that the top 5 to 7 inches of buds appear to be in good shape, followed by 1 to 2 inches of bud rot, followed by a few more inches of good bud. Is the entire branch no good because of the 1 to 2 inches of bud rot in the center or can I remove the bud rot and buds around that section?
3. I know I am supposed to remove anything not covered in trichomes. There are some large sugar leaves that protrude beyond the buds that have trichomes on them. Should I cut them to the bud or just the ends that do not have trichomes?
If there is something I am not asking about that you think I should know please mention that too. Thank you guys for all your help!
Dustin84
Well-Known Member
Up to you on length. More stem means more moisture retained. Just cut rot away. After it's dried you can smoke it. Some won't, some will. Dried those nasty things that are the rot die. That's personal preference. We used to smoke all sorts of it in the old bricks.
Cosmetics on trimming. Sugar leaves have more of the bud's flavor than the leafy like fan leaves. Dried and cured sugar leaves are fine. Keep is up to you. Not having storage I just cut big leaves off outside and let go to compost. Some I've kept to make hash. After hanging and drying a while I do the squeeze a bud and finer trimming. I personally try to separate the finer tuned trim from the fan leaves.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
The stems can drain some into the bud when hanging. The key to drying and curing for smooth smoke is to go slow and steady. So it is a preference on how much stem you leave. Remove the stem if you are low on space or want a quicker dry. I have plenty of space and time so I leave most all the stems.
Any rot needs to go. If you dry mold it sends out spores air born. So drying a moldy bud will infect everything in the drying area. You also don't want it right next to a good bud in a jar so keep it out of the mix. Only the part with active mold needs to be removed. Once properly dry and cured the spores will not grow but with your asthma I wouldn't temp fait.
If a fan leaf has crystals half way up a leaf I will cut off the tips and leave the sugary base. After drying I trim the buds more. A sugary leaf is harsh to smoke but the trichs can be extracted. The trim is used for butter or thrown in the hash run stash.
From reading this I think I see a pattern on the branch snap description. Large plants in higher humidity areas don't snap. No matter the temp or time of year, RH is always over 70 here. When the dehumidifier can finally pull the drying room down to 65RH the plant is dry.
Any rot needs to go. If you dry mold it sends out spores air born. So drying a moldy bud will infect everything in the drying area. You also don't want it right next to a good bud in a jar so keep it out of the mix. Only the part with active mold needs to be removed. Once properly dry and cured the spores will not grow but with your asthma I wouldn't temp fait.
If a fan leaf has crystals half way up a leaf I will cut off the tips and leave the sugary base. After drying I trim the buds more. A sugary leaf is harsh to smoke but the trichs can be extracted. The trim is used for butter or thrown in the hash run stash.
From reading this I think I see a pattern on the branch snap description. Large plants in higher humidity areas don't snap. No matter the temp or time of year, RH is always over 70 here. When the dehumidifier can finally pull the drying room down to 65RH the plant is dry.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
To clarify. When I referred to sugary leaves I was referring to fan leaves with trichs like my profile pic. I don't have the time or patience to trim the short single blade sugar leaves off the buds. I give the bud away so if they don't like it for some reason, they can trim it. They are as good as the rest of the bud so most people leave them on.
i leave the majority. it's really just personal preference. more makes the hang a little slower is all. some folk harvest right to the buds and hang them in special drying baskets. you have to be careful with those.
you'll have to crack the buds open. buds will look good from the outside and be completely rotten on the inside when you have bud rot. check them all.
remove all excess leaf. a number of folk will keep the small sugar leaf trim for other purposes. leaving it on will make the smoke a bit more harsh. you'll always have at least a little sugar leaf left that isn't worth trimming off.
hygrometers are just for your information. i use them until i know the buds are cured, jarred, and stable. groves are great for a big harvest but jars are best for long term storage.
Dustin84
Well-Known Member
I'll eventually trim the bigger completely before smoking and separating trim or just press for live rosin. As long as the leafy matter gets mostly separated before smoking it will still be smoother.
Dustin84
Well-Known Member
Towards the last buds I get tired of it.
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- #239
That is what has me worried about removing bud from the center of the branch. I am afraid even with removing the infected bud that spores will remain on the branch. I think on the branches that have mold in the center of the branch I am going to just take the uninfected tips and sacrifice the rest.
- Thread starter
- #240
I heard the term "Trim Jail" the first time the other day.....I thought to myself what an appropriate description!Towards the last buds I get tired of it.