InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

Have you tried to run the QBs at 100% to see if your temps will rise some? Once you get toward running 100% the drivers can get some heat going and will also make things a bit of less humidity. You would use more electricity but would you use less not having to run a heater?
Plants look really good right now.
 
Can of expanding foam... $6. LoL

I'll be putting the real time into waterproofing the floor and hooking up the auto-water system.

I'll fill gaps with duct tape if necessary. LoL
:thumb:
Honestly, I don't know that anyone else would even notice the light leaks. But, I know where they all are and I notice. It makes me too anxious.
Looks like a grounded UFO lol!

Oh cool, thanks Felipe! And happy new year to you and the fam :).



I was kidding AW but that's a very sweet trial offer you've made. I came up with another idea I want to bounce of y'all.

Since I was visiting my dad after work I asked my wife to bring all the plants in the office when she got home from work. It was already pretty cold (the Candidas don't look great but we'll see in the morning) but she got them in and left the light on for them. I thought "Hmmm...can I put a tent in the house while the nights are so cold and then move them back in the shed when it gets back into the 60s at night?"

Well...my daughter is going back to college on Sunday and won't be home again until Spring Break and it should be warmer then, so what if I got a tent to stick in her room, where no one goes! The lights and the driver should keep it warm in there even though it gets down to 60º at night in here. There is a CoolGrows 24x48x60 for $60 on Amazon, or just $20 more than the heater (which would boost the electric bill), and it also means I don't need to turn down the hot tub heater.

The only problem is the light frame is 26x48, two inches wider than the tent. Is there any play in the width of a tent? Can I bow the fabric walls out an inch on either side to fit the frame?

Thoughts?

Hey Shed quick idea. Instead of using your new light what if you purchased a 3x3 and used your mars300 it wouldn’t be as powerful but would still give you coverage
 
Contain yourselves fellas! Shed’s not leaving the sun behind :rofl:

How is it that every new pe=ice of equipment, no matter how hard you try, ends up forcing a completed rearangemnt of ones set up!?:eek: It used to happen to us in the studio all the time - buy a new piece of gear, rearrange the studio, and sometimes teh whole house, to accommodate it!

You’ll figure it out - I actually think the last option is winner if there’s no issue with the diodes being too close to the fabric of the tent.
:Namaste:
 
Contain yourselves fellas! Shed’s not leaving the sun behind :rofl:

How is it that every new pe=ice of equipment, no matter how hard you try, ends up forcing a completed rearangemnt of ones set up!?:eek: It used to happen to us in the studio all the time - buy a new piece of gear, rearrange the studio, and sometimes teh whole house, to accommodate it!

You’ll figure it out - I actually think the last option is winner if there’s no issue with the diodes being too close to the fabric of the tent.
:Namaste:

I agree. 46.5" should clear the poles no problem.
I know just what you mean AG! I am in the process of rearranging my entire way of manipulating environment all cause I got a new light and humidifier haha! I learned that my environmental controller has it's limits and I need a more accurate way to keep things tighter with regards to temp and RH
 
If you’re able to get your light in, you should be golden. There are so many air flaps and hose holes in those tents, temp should be good. You can even leave the tent unzipped a bit too, if needed. Needing to cover the smell and light is when it gets tricky. I suppose if it doesn’t work you can always send it back, unless it’s a 3rd party seller.
 
:thumb: nighty night. It’s getting late for me, you must we way past turning into a pumpkin.
That might work tho - only concern is diode heat close to the tent fabric, depending how close the diodes are to the edge (I can’t remember).
:Namaste:
I don't know what they feel like at full power but where I have them now (around 50%) there is no heat coming off them at all. Even if there was, there is at least an 1.5" margin from the ends of the strips to the outside edge of the frame.
Have you tried to run the QBs at 100% to see if your temps will rise some? Once you get toward running 100% the drivers can get some heat going and will also make things a bit of less humidity. You would use more electricity but would you use less not having to run a heater?
Plants look really good right now.
That's a very interesting point Derby. I haven't run these beyond 190 watts as the plants were getting used to the increase in light. What I will try tonight is putting the driver on the floor in the oval and moving the wattage to 250 and see what the temperature runs. I'll have to raise the light pretty far above the oval so I don't burn the plants (nice to have a lux meter:)) so the whole thing won't be contained within the walls unless I raise the oval off the floor with 2x4s or something I'll trip over.

Thanks for thinking of that!
Hi Shed, nice visit today. Girls are looking sweet. Always something huh? Bringing them in might make life easier and they might grow faster too. Spring's around the corner.
Always something for sure otter! You're right about faster growth. Without getting the temps up into growing range, the light is probably wasted. But Spring seems pretty far away. We'll get this sorted...
Did I read that right. You headed for a tent in the house !?
...hopefully before Advocate gets even more excited!
Hey Shed quick idea. Instead of using your new light what if you purchased a 3x3 and used your mars300 it wouldn’t be as powerful but would still give you coverage
That seems self-defeating though it would put the Mars to some use. But it doesn't make sense to built the Samsung light and demote the plants back to the Mars.
Tent, HPS lights, ventilation. I’m getting a little excited over here ! You’ll love it.
I think I've moved beyond the HPS and ventilation idea. Root temps are the issue I need to focus on, though the rest is obviously tempting! I'm trying to stay true to my core identity as an outside grower who supplements with nighttime lighting in the shed...temperature permitting :).
Contain yourselves fellas! Shed’s not leaving the sun behind :rofl:
How is it that every new piece of equipment, no matter how hard you try, ends up forcing a completed rearangemnt of ones set up!?:eek: It used to happen to us in the studio all the time - buy a new piece of gear, rearrange the studio, and sometimes teh whole house, to accommodate it!
You’ll figure it out - I actually think the last option is winner if there’s no issue with the diodes being too close to the fabric of the tent. :Namaste:
Thank you Amy, I love when you clarify the discussion when I'm not here! Or...what Amy said! :)

I'm tending to lean to Derby's suggestion first, since those drivers are supposed to put out enough heat that most people mount them outside the tent where possible. If that doesn't work then cutting off the hangers should make it fit in a 2x4 as AW mentions below:
I agree. 46.5" should clear the poles no problem.
I know just what you mean AG! I am in the process of rearranging my entire way of manipulating environment all cause I got a new light and humidifier haha! I learned that my environmental controller has it's limits and I need a more accurate way to keep things tighter with regards to temp and RH
Always improving! :thumb:
Or at least making some use of the new equipment :rolleyes:.
If you’re able to get your light in, you should be golden. There are so many air flaps and hose holes in those tents, temp should be good. You can even leave the tent unzipped a bit too, if needed. Needing to cover the smell and light is when it gets tricky. I suppose if it doesn’t work you can always send it back, unless it’s a 3rd party seller.
Smell isn't a problem in my house, nor would leaving the tent open if it actually gets too warm. RH might get high with it closed but it's sometimes in the mid 70s in the mornings in the shed so I'm not concerned there.
Well put folks. I like what you are doing. Reading this current topic of airflow and temps got me do do the same thing. Tinker with the fans lights and heat. Thank you for the inspiration
G
Always glad to inspire BDG!
But you will still do your outside projects as well?
I will continue to be an outside grower who is currently struggling with low nighttime temps. Have no fear Crazy!

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No update today but I do want to thank you all for jumping in with ideas and support! If all the above was tl;dr, then what I'm going to start with is Derby's suggestion of using the driver at higher wattage (I was originally aiming for 250w anyway) to see if it generates significant enough heat. If not, then shortening the frame to fit in a 2x4 tent and putting it in my daughter's room until the nights get back into the low 60s here.

:thanks: Your help is always appreciated.
 
Get a hps as well? Cant get too many lights in the shed.... ;)
This came up yesterday but we decided it wasn't the most cost-effective means of solving the problem. Heater is $40 and can also be used in the house when needed. Tent is $60 and would fit the existing frame with minor mods. HPS used is $75+ and would involve storing the frame until the temps get back to the 60s at night. Then storing the HPS the rest of the year.

A hot driver would be the simplest solution of all!
 
This came up yesterday but we decided it wasn't the most cost-effective means of solving the problem. Heater is $40 and can also be used in the house when needed. Tent is $60 and would fit the existing frame with minor mods. HPS used is $75+ and would involve storing the frame until the temps get back to the 60s at night. Then storing the HPS the rest of the year.

A hot driver would be the simplest solution of all!

Ok you got this covered I hear...

But I can say this, a hot driver is not too prefer or use as a heater. A hot driver is overloaded and soon to be toast. Keep all strip/light builds within 70% of the rated power on drivers folks! They last longer and it's the most expensive thing in the build! Never cut costs on a driver. :D
 
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