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- #8,861
Oh you should definitely build a QB! Might be cheaper than sealing the shed depending on how you value your time
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InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time
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Can of expanding foam... $6. LoLOh you should definitely build a QB! Might be cheaper than sealing the shed depending on how you value your time
I'll be putting the real time into waterproofing the floor and hooking up the auto-water system.
I'll fill gaps with duct tape if necessary. LoL
Honestly, I don't know that anyone else would even notice the light leaks. But, I know where they all are and I notice. It makes me too anxious.
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- #8,863
I'm with you. Even if they don't know it's a grow room they're going to wonder why that place is glowing all night!
hey that can be arranged hahaYou thinking I should check Craigslist for an HPS system? Or just use @Archiweedies' if he's not using his anymore.
So since I’m in sorta the same boat, and region of the countryI can swing my temps +/- 10 degrees, just by switching power levels on the ballasts.
After this run, I'll be dealing all light leaks and go back to running them at night through the summer... unless I build a QB. LoL
, let’s see if my experience helps any. I agree I can swing temps @ the canopy roughly 10degrees over ambient with HPS and slowing my extraction fan down to low. I run lights from 8pm to 2pm. I have my heater running all day right now as I test out the new Perfect Sun LED. Without the heater Id easily be in the 50’s and 60’s.
Shed when we meet up, I can let you try that double ended HPS out, but with your stringent power concerns, I’d consider running it at 600w rather than 1k.
I keep my dehumidifier set to run during lights out which also helps keep a little heat in the tent.
In the summer, I think my LEDs will be perfect with my dual hose AC. My autocob led’s are passively cooled and do not raise canopy temps. The leaves are cooler than the ambient air so long as you have oscillating fans going.
HNY Shed 
Your FIM looks properly FIMed.
Your FIM looks properly FIMed.
- Thread starter
- #8,867
Oh cool, thanks Felipe! And happy new year to you and the famHNY Shed
Your FIM looks properly FIMed.
.I was kidding AW but that's a very sweet trial offer you've made. I came up with another idea I want to bounce of y'all.So since I’m in sorta the same boat, and region of the country
I agree I can swing temps @ the canopy roughly 10degrees over ambient with HPS and slowing my extraction fan down to low. I run lights from 8pm to 2pm. I have my heater running all day right now as I test out the new Perfect Sun LED. Without the heater Id easily be in the 50’s and 60’s.
Shed when we meet up, I can let you try that double ended HPS out, but with your stringent power concerns, I’d consider running it at 600w rather than 1k.
I keep my dehumidifier set to run during lights out which also helps keep a little heat in the tent.
In the summer, I think my LEDs will be perfect with my dual hose AC. My autocob led’s are passively cooled and do not raise canopy temps. The leaves are cooler than the ambient air so long as you have oscillating fans going.
Since I was visiting my dad after work I asked my wife to bring all the plants in the office when she got home from work. It was already pretty cold (the Candidas don't look great but we'll see in the morning) but she got them in and left the light on for them. I thought "Hmmm...can I put a tent in the house while the nights are so cold and then move them back in the shed when it gets back into the 60s at night?"
Well...my daughter is going back to college on Sunday and won't be home again until Spring Break and it should be warmer then, so what if I got a tent to stick in her room, where no one goes! The lights and the driver should keep it warm in there even though it gets down to 60º at night in here. There is a CoolGrows 24x48x60 for $60 on Amazon, or just $20 more than the heater (which would boost the electric bill), and it also means I don't need to turn down the hot tub heater.
The only problem is the light frame is 26x48, two inches wider than the tent. Is there any play in the width of a tent? Can I bow the fabric walls out an inch on either side to fit the frame?
Thoughts?
I like the indoor idea. Don't think a tent is going to have enough slack. Mylar blankets and build your own? Could use 3/4 inch PVC pipe and build a frame then enclose it with the mylar blankets. Just spitballing.
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- #8,869
Interesting idea farside (and congrats again on the POTM...it was a beauty!). I'm not sure that I'm really interested in buying and cutting the PVC and finding a source for thick mylar and getting it to hang right and duct taping it closed and all the rest. I've seen tents suck in at least an inch when folks are running negative pressure in them, won't the bow an inch as well?
Master Of None
Well-Known Member
Hey Shed, don't forget about the poles that hold the tent up... they might be in the way.
I think MON hit the nail on the head, poles are going to be an issue. I've also heard some people complain that tent dimensions are slightly smaller than quoted with a lot of the manufacturers.
Hi shed - sorry to agree with M o N and farside. I don’t think the tent has any play at all - not enough for the light anyway.
It’s an awesome idea tho. Can you just bring the whole sphere in? ANd hang the light form the ceiling just like in the shed?
It’s an awesome idea tho. Can you just bring the whole sphere in? ANd hang the light form the ceiling just like in the shed?
Aside from the fact your frame won’t fit, don’t forget you now need an extraction fan and carbon filter (if smells a problem), oscillating fan, etc. for a tent. Then if her rooms getting down in the 60’s you could be almost in the same boat with the temps. Especially once the fans start blowing.Oh cool, thanks Felipe! And happy new year to you and the fam
I was kidding AW but that's a very sweet trial offer you've made. I came up with another idea I want to bounce of y'all.
Since I was visiting my dad after work I asked my wife to bring all the plants in the office when she got home from work. It was already pretty cold (the Candidas don't look great but we'll see in the morning) but she got them in and left the light on for them. I thought "Hmmm...can I put a tent in the house while the nights are so cold and then move them back in the shed when it gets back into the 60s at night?"
Well...my daughter is going back to college on Sunday and won't be home again until Spring Break and it should be warmer then, so what if I got a tent to stick in her room, where no one goes! The lights and the driver should keep it warm in there even though it gets down to 60º at night in here. There is a CoolGrows 24x48x60 for $60 on Amazon, or just $20 more than the heater (which would boost the electric bill), and it also means I don't need to turn down the hot tub heater.
The only problem is the light frame is 26x48, two inches wider than the tent. Is there any play in the width of a tent? Can I bow the fabric walls out an inch on either side to fit the frame?
Thoughts?
I happen to have a 4x4x6.5 if you still want to try haha!
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- #8,874
Oof!
Double oof!
I don't feel like drilling holes in the ceiling but I could build a PVC frame for the light. The problem with the oval, as AW mentions below, is that it's not holding in the heat the way the sealed tent would.Hi shed - sorry to agree with M o N and farside. I don’t think the tent has any play at all - not enough for the light anyway.
It’s an awesome idea tho. Can you just bring the whole sphere in? ANd hang the light form the ceiling just like in the shed?
Smell won't be a problem in the house and I've got an oscillating fan, but without a tent the heat does become an issue again. If I get the length of the light under 48" by cutting off the ends where the hangers are (I can put hangers anywhere), then does the 26" width interfere with any poles? I mean is the 4' span pole-free?
Most (all?) tents just have poles in the corners only. Archi has one for you!
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- #8,876
No room for a 4x4 unfortunately 
. I'm going to measure the length of the light frame again and see how far under 48" I can get. The material itself should have an inch of outward give, no?
[edit: I can take 3/4" off each end...will that clear the corner poles? 46½".]
. I'm going to measure the length of the light frame again and see how far under 48" I can get. The material itself should have an inch of outward give, no?[edit: I can take 3/4" off each end...will that clear the corner poles? 46½".]
In which direction? Off the 48”? Or the 26”?
And it depends how thick the poles are - should be on the specs...
- Thread starter
- #8,879
Off the 48", down to 46 1/2". I'll check the specs in the morning.
:zzzzz:
:zzzzz:
nighty night. It’s getting late for me, you must we way past turning into a pumpkin.That might work tho - only concern is diode heat close to the tent fabric, depending how close the diodes are to the edge (I can’t remember).
