Can you explain what that means in the context of this build? Is that a stated spec somewhere?
The numbers needed to calculate it is stated
The driver puts puts a max current of 1,05A, the strip has a max current rating of 1,8A.
(1,05 / 1,8) * 100 = 58,33%
I'm not getting this "something goes wrong" theme. You wire your electric device (whatever it is) and then, assuming no one has messed with it, it's done. I have all sorts of electrical devices and nothing goes wrong with them. And wouldn't grounding the frame eliminate the remote possibility that the frame is electrified? The outlet is grounded. The garage circuit breaker now is connected to an 8' spike driven into the ground outside.
As in if, you (or others) go super stupid and fiddle with screwdrivers around the wires/connections while the light is on and such. It's one of those in case something goes wrong this will limit the damage kinda things
Basically just don't go for a Darwin Award
Nice with grounded circuit, just use that and if you can't don't sweat it and use a non grounded outlet, it's really no biggie.
Is your suggestion would be to split the 300v into two 150v cc/cv drivers and wire this with 6 and 7 boards to keep the voltage down?
I think you're mixing apples and oranges
The switched mode thing is probably not helping, disregard that, just look at the suffix on the driver model name;
If it's C700, C1050, C1400 etc. it's a CC driver and the name implies the mA output,
If it's 12, 24, 36, 48, etc. it's a CV driver and the name implies the fixed voltage.
You ordered a CC driver that is 152V -305V and 1,05A max.
I suggest a 2x CV drivers that are 27V max and 7,8A max.
CC - serial wiring = low current and high voltage
CV - parallel wiring = high current and low voltage
I'd go 6 strips on one of these drivers, it's 72% of max, and then keep the last strip as back up, or order a small driver for it and use alone as a clone light.
The link was to show how the specs from TME are a lot better than the specs from Mouser and others