I edited... Poltergeist was a tv... Lol
InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time
Like this from back in May:
LMAO.... Yeah that would last all of 2 nights here and there would be a handcuff party. With a fan blowing around the leaves and making it flicker it is a dead ringer for the ET shed.
I know it's legal but that does draw some unneeded attention. You wouldn't want some kids stealing your stash after putting all that work into them.
Gonna pull up a seat here, and watch and learn InTheShed, your right lotta light talk going on here, much of it is confusing me lol, glad I’ve decided on one now anyways....your training and pics/ explanations etc are very nice to read through, I’ll be following along now
Stu
Stu
- Thread starter
- #7,324
That's the glowing bike shed. It gets an adjective while the shed is just the shed. The new light goes in the shed which has a cardboard shield over the window that allows for air flow but blocks the light. It's not perfect but it's good enough!Love the shed Shed.
Yeah, not too concerned about it. Really, no one can see it unless you're in our backyard.Hahaha!awesome! #zerofucksgiven
That only works if there's a god so I'm good
.If you want to take a chance with my dog to steal whatever is in the bike shed...good luck! The pomegranates are probably worth more than whatever I'd have under the Mars in there
.Gonna pull up a seat here, and watch and learn InTheShed, your right lotta light talk going on here, much of it is confusing me lol, glad I’ve decided on one now anyways....your training and pics/ explanations etc are very nice to read through, I’ll be following along now
Stu
Stu! It was a lot of light talk this week. We cover a lot of topics so you never know what you're gonna get! Grab a seat and join us. Sometimes @newty insists I post pics of plants as well .Jk, I update my plants pretty often. The most important thing to remember is that I grow outside all day and in the shed under the lights at night. But when I want to flip a photoperiod plant, it goes in the shed at night for 12 hours of dark. Knowing that will help explain a lot!
I'm sure that light you've got coming is going to impress you.
Thanks for signing up
.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Nobodys posted for a couple hours ha....
That purple light from the shed will have clone boy come calling. It's like a Trick or Treat sign for him.
That purple light from the shed will have clone boy come calling. It's like a Trick or Treat sign for him.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Did you place the order already @InTheShed ?
They don't!
H inFlux and Q-series use LM301b, F and H series use the older and less efficient LM561c
Also the design is different, H, F, and Q are bendy plastic strips and H inFlux are nice sturdy aluminium strips with mounting holes.
And no, more lux/lumen does NOT directly equal more PPFD because it doesn't take the photosynthetical efficiency into the equation.
Higher CCT will always have higher efficacy, but less photosynthetical efficiency than their lower CCT counterparts, thus making lm/w a rating of electrical efficiency only comparative for units of the same color temperature (and type).
2 row strips must be run softer or actively cooled, 77% should be more like 120w per strip.
144 diodes at 77% will, of course, always run hotter than 88 diodes at 77%, same surface area.
288 diodes is the same as a QB, I run my QBs at 135w
Use a piece of flat aluminium and drill holes matching the drivers mounting holes and place it across the heatsinks/U-channels, mount it to one of them with a bracket
You have to forget about doing serial builds with strips, and thus forget about Constant Current drivers
Strips have a forward voltage matching a wide range of Mean Well HLG Constant Voltage drivers, so you have the set voltage and adjust the ampere, much easier
Just make sure combined max current of the strips is higher than the max current output of the driver.
Dimming down to 40% of max will keep the driver efficiency above 90% with the bigger HLG drivers that are usually 92-94% efficient on max.
The voltage of the strips changes according to the current input, so at 0,7A the voltage is lower than the nominal forward voltage and at higher currents the voltage is higher.
On the CV type 'A' driver you can set both V and A with the internal potentiometer
Also less electricution danger when keeping the voltage on a big rig down
They don't!
H inFlux and Q-series use LM301b, F and H series use the older and less efficient LM561c
Also the design is different, H, F, and Q are bendy plastic strips and H inFlux are nice sturdy aluminium strips with mounting holes.
And no, more lux/lumen does NOT directly equal more PPFD because it doesn't take the photosynthetical efficiency into the equation.
Higher CCT will always have higher efficacy, but less photosynthetical efficiency than their lower CCT counterparts, thus making lm/w a rating of electrical efficiency only comparative for units of the same color temperature (and type).
2 row strips must be run softer or actively cooled, 77% should be more like 120w per strip.
144 diodes at 77% will, of course, always run hotter than 88 diodes at 77%, same surface area.
288 diodes is the same as a QB, I run my QBs at 135w
Use a piece of flat aluminium and drill holes matching the drivers mounting holes and place it across the heatsinks/U-channels, mount it to one of them with a bracket
You have to forget about doing serial builds with strips, and thus forget about Constant Current drivers
Strips have a forward voltage matching a wide range of Mean Well HLG Constant Voltage drivers, so you have the set voltage and adjust the ampere, much easier
Just make sure combined max current of the strips is higher than the max current output of the driver.
Dimming down to 40% of max will keep the driver efficiency above 90% with the bigger HLG drivers that are usually 92-94% efficient on max.
The voltage of the strips changes according to the current input, so at 0,7A the voltage is lower than the nominal forward voltage and at higher currents the voltage is higher.
On the CV type 'A' driver you can set both V and A with the internal potentiometer
Also less electricution danger when keeping the voltage on a big rig down
- Thread starter
- #7,327
Thanks PGR! You do know I already ordered the strips and driver though right?
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
I thought so, but wasn't sure...
Should'ave been other driver(S), but no worries it'll work fine
Driver mounting possibility:
Should'ave been other driver(S), but no worries it'll work fine
Driver mounting possibility:
- Thread starter
- #7,329
I was actually going to hang it from a nail in the ceiling joists!
They're not shipping until the end of the week. What driver(s) do you recommend and why would it be better than the one Graytail picked out?
They're not shipping until the end of the week. What driver(s) do you recommend and why would it be better than the one Graytail picked out?
PGR, what's with the Lu/W numbers on the H-influx datasheet?
They aren't spectacular, by any means.
I didn't nail the numbers down, but it looked like they're no better than the F-series.
They aren't spectacular, by any means.
I didn't nail the numbers down, but it looked like they're no better than the F-series.
nobodyhere
Well-Known Member
Shed, you need a knob that goes to 11.
- Thread starter
- #7,332
I think the A series drivers have that!
You could also go with two CV drivers, like the 185H-24a. They deliver 185 watts each and cost about $50. You'd wire in parallel instead of series. Or stick with CC/CV drivers and do two 185H-C1050a - same cost either way.
I'm more comfortable with series wiring, so I look at the CC/CV drivers, and they're a little more efficient than the CVs, too, although at 40-60% of max power they're both in the low 90% range.
But it's true that CV drivers are simpler to match to strips. You just pick your power, and the correct voltage, and then just hook up as many strips as you want. They all split the amperage between them, so you just turn the adjustment screw up and down to change power - very intuitive.
One more advantage to going with 2 drivers is the ability to adjust two sets of strips separately, like one for the middle and one along the walls, or a 2x2 for each, etc.
Or stick with CC/CV drivers and do two 185H-C1050a - same cost either way.I'm more comfortable with series wiring, so I look at the CC/CV drivers, and they're a little more efficient than the CVs, too, although at 40-60% of max power they're both in the low 90% range.
But it's true that CV drivers are simpler to match to strips. You just pick your power, and the correct voltage, and then just hook up as many strips as you want. They all split the amperage between them, so you just turn the adjustment screw up and down to change power - very intuitive.
One more advantage to going with 2 drivers is the ability to adjust two sets of strips separately, like one for the middle and one along the walls, or a 2x2 for each, etc.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Constant Voltage is better than Constant Current because it matches the Voltage at a set level and is dimmed by limiting the Ampere output.
Constant Current has a Voltage range you have to be within and odd max Ampere numbers
I'd go with 1-3 Constant Voltage drivers HLG XXXh - 24A.
When getting that many strips you might as well build more than one lamp, so you have safety in numbers, possibility for running less light and having different hanging levels etc.
PGR, what's with the Lu/W numbers on the H-influx datasheet?
They aren't spectacular, by any means.
Well, it's simply the LM301b diode compared to the LM561c diode
I calculated the difference between H inFlux L06 (88 LM301b diodes) and 560mm single row F-series (76 LM561c diodes) while back.
From memory: @3000K H inFlux L06 is 5,7% more efficient and @4000k it's 11%? more efficient.
The H inFlux with fewer diodes is of course more efficient.
- Thread starter
- #7,335
Hmmm...You could also go with two CC drivers, like the 185H-24a. They deliver 185 watts each and cost about $50. You'd wire in parallel instead of series.
I'm more comfortable with series wiring, so I look at the CC/CV drivers, and they're a little more efficient than the CCs, too, although at 40-60% of max power they're both in the low 90% range.
But it's true that CC drivers are simpler to match to strips. You just pick your power, and the correct voltage, and then just hook up as many strips as you want. They all split the wattage between them, so you just turn the adjustment screw up and down to change power - very intuitive.
One more advantage to going with 2 drivers is the ability to adjust two sets of strips separately, like one for the middle and one along the walls, or a 2x2 for each, etc.
. I'm fine with keeping all the lights together rather than worrying about what configuration I might need next. If some day I want to split them can't I just get another driver to power 6 and leave the other 7 with the driver I ordered? Or does this driver only work with 13 boards?Keep in mind that these lights are supplemental to the sun, not my main source of light. I probably could have gotten another Mars 300 (or used my 300 and the promised GROWant G5PRO-G400) and been happy (if ignorant)!
As I think I mentioned, I do not understand the constant current/constant voltage conversation, so you guys will have to sort that out without me
.Is there something dangerous running 13 boards in series on that driver? And if I want less light can't I just turn down the dimmer? Or do you mean fewer boards?
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
You mean CV
185h - 24A draws around 227w max
Calculated from specs: 27V * 7,8A = 210,6w DC -> 210,6 * 1,065 = 224,289
Many are, and some are even afraid of doing parallel, typical grower related things to be like this.
Uuuuhhh GrowMau5 said do serial, do CXB3590, do 3500K (3 years ago) so anything else will undo the universe
Ask electricians and they'll tell you to do what makes the most sense in your application
Hell, there are split output drivers and combined serial/parallel wiring, so straight CV is no sweat
No, the Constant Voltage drivers split the Ampere (current), wich also affects the Voltage - even on the CV 'A' type drivers where you can adjust both A and V.
There's a series of videos from LEDgardener explaining the Mean Well drivers in depth, good stuff
- Thread starter
- #7,337
Maybe I can ask a more basic question: with the 13 boards that I ordered (SI-B8V261560WW), what's wrong with the driver I ordered (HLG-320H-C1050A) to go along with it? Besides the flexibility to make modifications down the road?You mean CV
185h - 24A draws around 227w max
Calculated from specs: 27V * 7,8A = 210,6w DC -> 210,6 * 1,065 = 224,289
Many are, and some are even afraid of doing parallel, typical grower related things to be like this.
Uuuuhhh GrowMau5 said do serial, do CXB3590, do 3500K (3 years ago) so anything else will undo the universe
Ask electricians and they'll tell you to do what makes the most sense in your application
Hell, there are split output drivers and combined serial/parallel wiring, so straight CV is no sweat
No, the Constant Voltage drivers split the Ampere (current), wich also affects the Voltage - even on the CV 'A' type drivers where you can adjust both A and V.
There's a series of videos from LEDgardener explaining the Mean Well drivers in depth, good stuff
I want to run the system at approximately 250 wall watts, but have the ability to run it balls to the wall if I move into the house with it.
You mean CV
185h - 24A draws around 227w max
Calculated from specs: 27V * 7,8A = 210,6w DC -> 210,6 * 1,065 = 224,289
Many are, and some are even afraid of doing parallel, typical grower related things to be like this.
Uuuuhhh GrowMau5 said do serial, do CXB3590, do 3500K (3 years ago) so anything else will undo the universe
Ask electricians and they'll tell you to do what makes the most sense in your application
Hell, there are split output drivers and combined serial/parallel wiring, so straight CV is no sweat
No, the Constant Voltage drivers split the Ampere (current), wich also affects the Voltage - even on the CV 'A' type drivers where you can adjust both A and V.
There's a series of videos from LEDgardener explaining the Mean Well drivers in depth, good stuff
Heheh, I can tell you know a little sumpin 'bout them electronix stuffs. Sorry about the CC and "wattage"- in a hurry - got careless - I often count on editing to fix the boners, but you caught me.
As far as max wattage, you know more about the CVs than I do - I merely looked at the datasheet, which says 187.2 watt maximum.- Thread starter
- #7,339
After a little late night back and forth with @Graytail and @PurpleGunRack, it doesn't look like there are any changes to the lighting order, so next I'll post a mock-up of the frame to get feedback from y'all.
In the meantime, I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving weekend (or just a nice weekend) and it's time for the Monday update!
I didn't get anywhere near as much done yesterday as I had intended (and didn't even get a nap
) but I did get a couple of tails to sprout on my Candida seeds!
They seemed long enough to skip the paper-towel-in-the-ziplock routine so they went directly into peat pucks yesterday, and into the Shoebox of Light®.
Not much room on the heat mat anymore but that's okay because I've moved a lot of Solo-cup-clones outside (and under the Mars last night). Here is the Outdoor family portrait:
If you know of anyone in L.A. who can use a few clones, please let me know! And that pic doesn't include the ones still on the heat mat
. The outdoor clones all got ¼ strength veg nutes this morning.
Last, here is the critter update. Mine will never compete with @Amy Gardner's, but we seemed to have a pair of Great Horned Owls move in. Maybe that will cut down on the rat population that has taken over. You can see them on the tallest branch and the one to the left of that. Huge wingspans but I couldn't get a pic of them in flight:
That concludes the Monday update. I now have to get a mug of green tea so that I can catch up on what you have going on this morning. Enjoy the week!
In the meantime, I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving weekend (or just a nice weekend) and it's time for the Monday update!
I didn't get anywhere near as much done yesterday as I had intended (and didn't even get a nap
) but I did get a couple of tails to sprout on my Candida seeds!They seemed long enough to skip the paper-towel-in-the-ziplock routine so they went directly into peat pucks yesterday, and into the Shoebox of Light®.
Not much room on the heat mat anymore but that's okay because I've moved a lot of Solo-cup-clones outside (and under the Mars last night). Here is the Outdoor family portrait:
If you know of anyone in L.A. who can use a few clones, please let me know! And that pic doesn't include the ones still on the heat mat
. The outdoor clones all got ¼ strength veg nutes this morning.Last, here is the critter update. Mine will never compete with @Amy Gardner's, but we seemed to have a pair of Great Horned Owls move in. Maybe that will cut down on the rat population that has taken over. You can see them on the tallest branch and the one to the left of that. Huge wingspans but I couldn't get a pic of them in flight:
That concludes the Monday update. I now have to get a mug of green tea so that I can catch up on what you have going on this morning. Enjoy the week!
Those Owls will put a dent in the rodent population without a doubt. Any small dogs or cats will be in mortal danger as well!
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