I edited... Poltergeist was a tv... Lol
How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
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That's the glowing bike shed. It gets an adjective while the shed is just the shed. The new light goes in the shed which has a cardboard shield over the window that allows for air flow but blocks the light. It's not perfect but it's good enough!Love the shed Shed.
Yeah, not too concerned about it. Really, no one can see it unless you're in our backyard.Hahaha! awesome! #zerofucksgiven
That only works if there's a god so I'm good ."EXCUSE ME SIR,
We have reason to believe you have the lord hidden somewhere on the property ?"
If you want to take a chance with my dog to steal whatever is in the bike shed...good luck! The pomegranates are probably worth more than whatever I'd have under the Mars in there .LMAO.... Yeah that would last all of 2 nights here and there would be a handcuff party. With a fan blowing around the leaves and making it flicker it is a dead ringer for the ET shed.
I know it's legal but that does draw some unneeded attention. You wouldn't want some kids stealing your stash after putting all that work into them.
Stu! It was a lot of light talk this week. We cover a lot of topics so you never know what you're gonna get! Grab a seat and join us. Sometimes @newty insists I post pics of plants as well .Gonna pull up a seat here, and watch and learn InTheShed, your right lotta light talk going on here, much of it is confusing me lol, glad I’ve decided on one now anyways....your training and pics/ explanations etc are very nice to read through, I’ll be following along now
Stu
If every board I'm considering is using the same chips, I don't need to compared PPFD, do I? I can just use lux since those specs are stated by Samsung. If all the chips are the same then more lux should be higher PPFD, no?
Rider's double strip F series 1.2192m (4') fixtures came in at 868 diodes (288x3) and if I ran them at 77% I'm under 250 watts. That's more diodes/sf, and even if they run hotter than single strips they won't be as hot at 77% as 8 strips with 2 drivers will they? I can't mount the drivers outside the shed (though they won't be on the strips).
It just occurred to me - the milliamps are the power. So for what you're talking about, you'd want a 1400 or 1750ma driver etc, to run the strips as hot as you can go, and then turn the driver down to something tolerable.
And then you need the wattage to get enough voltage to run as many strips as you have.
Does that make sense?
I was actually going to hang it from a nail in the ceiling joists!
They're not shipping until the end of the week. What driver(s) do you recommend and why would it be better than the one Graytail picked out?
PGR, what's with the Lu/W numbers on the H-influx datasheet?
They aren't spectacular, by any means. I didn't nail the numbers down, but it looked like they're no better than the F-series.
Hmmm.... I'm fine with keeping all the lights together rather than worrying about what configuration I might need next. If some day I want to split them can't I just get another driver to power 6 and leave the other 7 with the driver I ordered? Or does this driver only work with 13 boards?You could also go with two CC drivers, like the 185H-24a. They deliver 185 watts each and cost about $50. You'd wire in parallel instead of series. Or stick with CC/CV drivers and do two 185H-C1050a - same cost either way.
I'm more comfortable with series wiring, so I look at the CC/CV drivers, and they're a little more efficient than the CCs, too, although at 40-60% of max power they're both in the low 90% range.
But it's true that CC drivers are simpler to match to strips. You just pick your power, and the correct voltage, and then just hook up as many strips as you want. They all split the wattage between them, so you just turn the adjustment screw up and down to change power - very intuitive.
One more advantage to going with 2 drivers is the ability to adjust two sets of strips separately, like one for the middle and one along the walls, or a 2x2 for each, etc.
Is there something dangerous running 13 boards in series on that driver? And if I want less light can't I just turn down the dimmer? Or do you mean fewer boards?When getting that many strips you might as well build more than one lamp, so you have safety in numbers, possibility for running less light
You could also go with two CC drivers, like the 185H-24a. They deliver 185 watts each
I'm more comfortable with series wiring
They all split the wattage between them
Maybe I can ask a more basic question: with the 13 boards that I ordered (SI-B8V261560WW), what's wrong with the driver I ordered (HLG-320H-C1050A) to go along with it? Besides the flexibility to make modifications down the road?You mean CV
185h - 24A draws around 227w max
Calculated from specs: 27V * 7,8A = 210,6w DC -> 210,6 * 1,065 = 224,289
Many are, and some are even afraid of doing parallel, typical grower related things to be like this.
Uuuuhhh GrowMau5 said do serial, do CXB3590, do 3500K (3 years ago) so anything else will undo the universe
Ask electricians and they'll tell you to do what makes the most sense in your application
Hell, there are split output drivers and combined serial/parallel wiring, so straight CV is no sweat
No, the Constant Voltage drivers split the Ampere (current), wich also affects the Voltage - even on the CV 'A' type drivers where you can adjust both A and V.
There's a series of videos from LEDgardener explaining the Mean Well drivers in depth, good stuff
You mean CV
185h - 24A draws around 227w max
Calculated from specs: 27V * 7,8A = 210,6w DC -> 210,6 * 1,065 = 224,289
Many are, and some are even afraid of doing parallel, typical grower related things to be like this.
Uuuuhhh GrowMau5 said do serial, do CXB3590, do 3500K (3 years ago) so anything else will undo the universe
Ask electricians and they'll tell you to do what makes the most sense in your application
Hell, there are split output drivers and combined serial/parallel wiring, so straight CV is no sweat
No, the Constant Voltage drivers split the Ampere (current), wich also affects the Voltage - even on the CV 'A' type drivers where you can adjust both A and V.
There's a series of videos from LEDgardener explaining the Mean Well drivers in depth, good stuff