InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

Per my previous conversation with @Jon about drying, here's an update on the conditions in the tent:


I did turn off the exhaust on Tuesday morning and the RH shot up to 80% :eek: so I went back to the way it was when I first hung them.

No matter how fast the fans blow, you cannot overdry your harvest if the RH is over 62%. You might be driving off some super-volatile terpenes (that are probably gone after 3 weeks of air exposure anyway), but even me blowing 63% air directly at the bud can only bring it down to 63%.

And just for another angle, here they all are today, a little smaller than they were on Sunday:


Quotes:
I really don't keep extensive records, just harvest date, veg-flower-total days, harvest weight, and grams/day.
In case anyone wants to see my work:
1665082334275.png


That's all I track.
I just seen 6” clip-on fans for $3.99 @ one of those home supplies store. I’m going to get 3 of them.
Great deal! I think mine were closer to $10 each.
 
Per my previous conversation with @Jon about drying, here's an update on the conditions in the tent:


I did turn off the exhaust on Tuesday morning and the RH shot up to 80% :eek: so I went back to the way it was when I first hung them.

No matter how fast the fans blow, you cannot overdry your harvest if the RH is over 62%. You might be driving off some super-volatile terpenes (that are probably gone after 3 weeks of air exposure anyway), but even me blowing 63% air directly at the bud can only bring it down to 63%.

And just for another angle, here they all are today, a little smaller than they were on Sunday:


Quotes:

In case anyone wants to see my work:
1665082334275.png


That's all I track.

Great deal! I think mine were closer to $10 each.
It didn’t say if it was oscillating but it was round.
 
Thanks Rex! I really didn't mean to make a big deal out of it, I was just responding to dani's post about years of experience. And this weekend will be 53. :)
Yeah but it is a big deal and it’s inspiring for new grower’s like me. You rock amigo 👍
 
Per my previous conversation with @Jon about drying, here's an update on the conditions in the tent:


I did turn off the exhaust on Tuesday morning and the RH shot up to 80% :eek: so I went back to the way it was when I first hung them.

No matter how fast the fans blow, you cannot overdry your harvest if the RH is over 62%. You might be driving off some super-volatile terpenes (that are probably gone after 3 weeks of air exposure anyway), but even me blowing 63% air directly at the bud can only bring it down to 63%.

And just for another angle, here they all are today, a little smaller than they were on Sunday:


Quotes:

In case anyone wants to see my work:
1665082334275.png


That's all I track.

Great deal! I think mine were closer to $10 each.
Great harvest, shed!
Trainwreck is supposed to be great.
And that plant looked mighty tasty!
 
But turkey bags and cure are two different things. They go into the jars for curing as close to 62% as I can get them three weeks after chop.
Thanks for clarifying.

When you burp - how long do you leave the container (turkey bag or jar) open to vent?

(sorry for all the questions - I've read conflicting advice and I value your opinion - thanks!)
 
Thanks for clarifying.

When you burp - how long do you leave the container (turkey bag or jar) open to vent?

(sorry for all the questions - I've read conflicting advice and I value your opinion - thanks!)
Glad to help! How long they stay open mostly depends on the RH in the bag versus the RH outside the bag.

I don't want the buds to get too dry too quickly and have to raise the RH in the bag to start again lowering it. I want to get the full 3 weeks between chop and sealing for the cure.

I'm thinking a few minutes is fine because it's really about air exchange in the bag, except when it's also about lowering the humidity!

Oh yeah, and jars take longer because the opening is much smaller.
 
Doug Varin... really, do you still have some? Can you point me to smoke report?

Re the discussion over SIPs

Do you let the water wick up into the pot for a certain amount of time before putting a seed in the soil, pre-wetting as it were?
Yes. Capillary action is very fast and powerful. Next day, 12 hrs you are good.
In a system using synthetic nutes, when would you start adding nutrients to the res as opposed to feeding nutes with the second set of leaves? And if you were to only mix nutes 4-5 times per cycle, how would you decide what strength would they be?
The only plants I've seeded directly into SIPs were tomatoes. I also cloned a new tomato cutting into SIPS. In the example of cannabis, I would fill rez 1/3 plain water. If we're talking promix and my tap water, which is sublimely good at 0-10ppm and ph 7, I would not change pH (this is my current practice with cannabis).

My personal setup is an organic/salts hybrid at the moment but we'll ignore that.

Once my seedling had a couple nodes then I'd fill rez with my salt mix.

If running a large seperate rez, meaning a limited number of mixes I would run 100% the whole way through, but for adding dry koolbloom at the end and maybe a PK boost for last rez. Not convinced terribly on those, however, I also have a decent stock of KNF and JADAM that I might drench with at flower, weekly only. I think the key there is to avoid leeching into the onboard rez.


I grow much like Green Gene and Kootsmed, those guys that run Jack's at the same mix for the entire run and will change strength to suit cultivar/pheno. I, however, run MC 2 Part which has same NPK as Jacks with second part also being calcium nitrate. Differences are you get some multiple sources for some of the elements, amino acid chelation instead of EDTA synth chelate which is rough on the greater ecosystem, more magnesium and some silica. So far so good.

My additions to the mix at time of every rez fill are 5mg/gal Epsom, Liquidirt, Kelp, fulvic.

I add live endomyco hyphae I've cultured into transplant hole or seed location at planting

After plant has settled I do a weekly liquidirt, microbe, fulvic top drench with 500ml per plant, but only after roots have settled, about 10-14 days. I make sure that when I whet my matrix at the beginning that I use a lot of these elements, everything afterward is just a recharge. I currently actively culture live mycs and microbes (separately and together) from NPK, dynomyco and others so that I have live microbial and hyphae to input instead of spores and many, many more of them per application. It's very straightforward to do and much, much more cost-effective.

Personally, I also add a small amount of aged chicken manure (1/4 cup/10 gal), wormcastings (1 cup/ 10gal), frass (1/2 cup/10gal) and some humates into my promix. Because I don't run particularly strong nutes and want to encourage some microbial and mycological life, I run this hybrid mix. I don't want my peat to start locking out/holding on to nutes in this passive system and I want to reuse it, so I complicate the picture a little. Hopefully, it also has an impact on the final product quality. I'm also very cost conscious.

Here's my MC 2 part elemental mix for SIPs,

ElementPPMNPK Value
Total Nitrogen (N)146.00409.20
Nitrate Nitrogen (NO3-)139.6560
Ammonical Nitrogen (NH4+)6.3480
Phosphorous (P)55.44667.80
Potassium (K)206.627415.60
Magnesium (Mg)59.84583.77
Calcium (Ca)120.61207.60
Sulfur (S)79.03264.98
Iron (Fe)2.85660.18
Zinc (Zn)0.99030.06
Boron (B)0.37140.02
Manganese (Mn)0.61890.04
Copper (Cu)0.37140.02
Molybdenum (Mo)0.12380.01
Silicon (Si)1.42830.09
Total PPM571.3200
 
Glad to help! How long they stay open mostly depends on the RH in the bag versus the RH outside the bag.

I don't want the buds to get too dry too quickly and have to raise the RH in the bag to start again lowering it. I want to get the full 3 weeks between chop and sealing for the cure.

I'm thinking a few minutes is fine because it's really about air exchange in the bag, except when it's also about lowering the humidity!

Oh yeah, and jars take longer because the opening is much smaller.
Makes perfect sense - thanks!
 
Thanks for the detailed reply RD!
Doug Varin... really, do you still have some? Can you point me to smoke report?
I don't but they turned out not to have any THCV in it anyway, so it was just another THC plant. The breeder pulled it from their site because the test results didn't live up to the hype.
Yes. Capillary action is very fast and powerful. Next day, 12 hrs you are good.
:thanks:
The only plants I've seeded directly into SIPs were tomatoes. I also cloned a new tomato cutting into SIPS. In the example of cannabis, I would fill rez 1/3 plain water. If we're talking promix and my tap water, which is sublimely good at 0-10ppm and ph 7, I would not change pH (this is my current practice with cannabis).
Can you explain your up-pot method or link me to a post where you explain it? I think @Azimuth talked about running them from seed in the SIP.
If running a large seperate rez, meaning a limited number of mixes I would run 100% the whole way through,
Thanks! I can't see ever doing that but I was curious on how it would go.
I grow much like Green Gene and Kootsmed, those guys that run Jack's at the same mix for the entire run and will change strength to suit cultivar/pheno
I basically run the same ratios in my nutes from start to finish with a 20% K bump in flower (from 5-2-5 to 5-2-6). Only the dilution changes as the plant grows.
My additions to the mix at time of every rez fill are 5mg/gal Epsom, Liquidirt, Kelp, fulvic.
I add live endomyco hyphae I've cultured into transplant hole or seed location at planting
After plant has settled I do a weekly liquidirt, microbe, fulvic top drench with 500ml per plant, but only after roots have settled, about 10-14 days. I make sure that when I whet my matrix at the beginning that I use a lot of these elements, everything afterward is just a recharge. I currently actively culture live mycs and microbes (separately and together) from NPK, dynomyco and others so that I have live microbial and hyphae to input instead of spores and many, many more of them per application. It's very straightforward to do and much, much more cost-effective.
Personally, I also add a small amount of aged chicken manure (1/4 cup/10 gal), wormcastings (1 cup/ 10gal), frass (1/2 cup/10gal) and some humates into my promix. Because I don't run particularly strong nutes and want to encourage some microbial and mycological life, I run this hybrid mix. I don't want my peat to start locking out/holding on to nutes in this passive system and I want to reuse it, so I complicate the picture a little. Hopefully, it also has an impact on the final product quality. I'm also very cost conscious.
Very detailed account of your grows, thanks for that! Way more than I would ever do, and I'm not even convinced that microbes and organic nutes add any benefit in the soil of a synthetic-nute-fed plant.

I wonder how a SIP system would do outside with the sun beating on the res all day. :hmmmm:
Makes perfect sense - thanks!
:thumb:
 
Thanks Tim! I wanted to line the inside of the tent with shell wallpaper to make it more homey but we didn't have any handy. :)

How have you been?
Definitely need some wall paper, maybe some tree designs ha.

I've been good and busy with work....hence the late reply:) it's my busy season and I'm traveling more than normal. Hopefully Dec 1 I can start an auto grow
 
They do amazing outside. Like, amazing. However, you have to paint white or add reflective material, otherwise gets too hot. Its also advised by some to run a cover, and I did on some but its mainly to prevent heavy rains from leaching into rez and I don't have that issue where I live during growing season. Bit of normal rain is fine, not great for seedlings as it will disrupt the moisture gradient that is the key for triggering hydrotropic response.

Mycs and bennies are not affected by normal levels of salt nutes. This is science-based fact. What happens on large tracts of land using synth nutes is carbon cycle is disrupted, that's why topsoil is crap after few years modern farming.

A closed system 30 gallon container can have carbon cycle sustained with a teaspoon of leonardite/humates or a cup of compost every few months. However, on a large farm this would be very costly and thus is not done. They just up the ferts whenever they run into fertility issues and worsen the probleem. I think some people may have conflated this kind of 1000 acre farm mismanagement with using synths in any old container grow and it's just not comparable in any way. While I do defer to your experience in growing the ganja herb, I would point out that that a container grow using salt nutes is still an ideal scenario for mycs and bennies. That's why the product "Recharge" has taken off like it has amongst promix and coco growers, they can just see it working, salt nutes and all.

When I do Microbe Monday the next day the plant always have responded massively, its unmistakable. And I have a rez of salt nutes always soaking my 60% peat 40% perlite non-stop. Its a non-issue, people are really missing out. Thats why Mega Crop Original works so well, it has amino acid chelates, kelp meal (feeds microbes), and some humates, all the things I add back in because they've been removed from the 2 part to clean it up for hydro use and make NPK manipulation more possible. MC Original is a microbe-feeding powerhouse.
 
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