Humid Temperate Colombian Andes Greenhouse Organic Grow

[cbdhemp808]

One breeder's Kosher Kush could be quite different than another breeder's Kosher Kush. If you find a breeder, and a seller, you could ask them for terpene lab test results (aka a COA that includes terpenes). If you can't find any terpene lab test results that indicate high terpinolene or ocimene, along with other pine terpenes, I think you won't be able to count on Kosher Kush being bud rot resistant. Indica phenotypes of kushes are typically not high in these pine terpenes. I made some other comments in the thread HERE.

 

[CBDMed]

This is Peyote Wi-Fi CBD.
I don't see any more pistils.
How do those trichromes look?
(Is she ready to harvest?)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Looks like probably lots of milky but not a lot of amber. Can you get a close-up of the bud?

 

[CBDMed]

Looks like probably lots of milky but not a lot of amber. Can you get a close-up of the bud?

I always do heavy Amber. I thought this time I would try milky just to change things up. This one has 2: one CBD so there should be plenty. Ha ha and I wanted an earthy diesel taste!
I chopped her. I we'll see how I like going milky versus Amber.
This is after a bud wash.

I took a few different focal lengths. Wasn't sure what you were wanting so I thought just to take a few.

And a third one.

I can't wait to taste her. Too bad I can't grow her normally here, she only has a medium mold rating.

Got to run.

 

[CBDMed]

Ok, the clones and seedlings are looking decent, all things considered.
The two tall girls in the back on the left are Northern Light CBD sativa.
The two medium girls are Dr. Seedsman CBD.

Then I have a tray with seven doctor seedsman seedlings that are still with me.

In this tray in the back left I have the cream and cheese mold resistant that started getting the proper number of leaves after I doubled the lighting.
Front and left CLAIMS to be Mango Biche but cannot be, because her leaves are too broad. (She looks more like a hybrid, but her internodal spacing is pretty good, so I might try to let her grow, just to see if she survives.)
The two girls in the middle are Pineapple Kush, what looks like a sativa or tall version. I have no idea on the mold resistance but since it is sativa, I should try it.
The short girl on the right is also a Pineapple Kush, but she seems very short and squat with very tight spacing between the leaf nodes. She looks Indica. I have no idea of the mold resistance, so although I would love to have her, I probably should leave her out.

The Mango Biche are recovering.
They were older seeds, and I might have overwatered them at one point, so they grew up looking kind of stressed.
I hope now that they are getting bigger they will start to straighten out, and grow more normally. Then I just have to pick the five best looking ones. (They all look kind of funky right now, but hopefully as they get older they will be strong and healthy.)

I have a hot soil question but I should send it separately.

 

[cbdhemp808]

lookin' good! ...crazy deep green leaves!

 

[CBDMed]

You could use your mineral ferts along with bat guano for N and seabird guano for P (no cooking needed). Then you could use Langbeinite for K, Mg, S (and not use epsom salt). Langbeinite is also called "K-Mag"... a very common fertilizer.

Hey @cbdhemp808 ,
(Edited.)
I have some hot soil questions for you (or for anyone who has experience mixing or reconditioning their own hot soil /super soil).

My assistant already had my premixed supersoil taken out to the farm.
I think we have plenty to fill the 10g and 15g buckets, but I do NOT think we have enough to fill five each of the 60 gallon buckets for the Mango Biche--so I thought we could doctor up farm soil. (It should be way better than what Mango Biche are used to growing in!)

My assistant said they can take topsoil from one area, and we also have a mound of composted goat stall cleanings (caprinasa).
I looked it up, they say caprinasa has a lot of nitrogen because it's 4 different types of decomposed wood shavings, and those shavings soak up a lot of goat urine.
So maybe it will not be perfect, but I thought we could mix farm topsoil with the caprinasa and aeration, and also add the supersoil nutrients MINUS the blood meal (because blood meal would take time to cook). Then add myco, tricho, and plant it up.
(I know it is hypothetically better to let it compost, but we do not have a choice this time.)

I also have bat guano. I do not have any seabird guano.
With some lead time, I can have my assistant coordinate mixing "supersoil" on the farm, and store it in the garbage cans. (If we have time to cook we can use the blood meal.)
I have a question though:
Even though the Subcool recipe has calcium and magnesium, I find myself STILL having to add CalMag (and a 1" worm casting layer), or I can get calcium deficiencies.

This is the base Subcool recipe. How do I get rid of the calcium deficiencies?
Do I add more Epsom and more Dolomite Lime to the formula? Or do I continue to buy CalMag and have my workers use it??
Or what do I do??

• 1 ten gallon bag of high quality Organic Potting Soil Such as “Roots Organic Soil”
• 3 to 6 pounds of Organic Earthworm Castings (1 lb. of casting = about 1 gal.) (I always go with the 6.)
• 10 ounces of Blood Meal ( 10 oz. of blood meal = about 1 & 1/2 cups) (I will omit this because of the caprinasa, and no time to cook.)
• 10 ounces of Bat Guano ( 10 oz. of guano = about 1 cup) (I can easily add more if it is desired. It is not expensive here.)
• 10 ounces Bone Meal ( 10 oz. of bone meal = about 1 cup)
• 6 ounces Rock Phosphate
• 1&1/2 tablespoons Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate)
• 2 tablespoons of Dolomite Lime
• 1 tablespoons or 1/2 oz. (liquid measure) of Azomite (trace elements) (I always add wayyyy more rock dust than what they say.)
• 1 teaspoon of powdered Humic Acid

I usually also add some kelp meal.
Do I just mix that in with the soil + caprinasa + aeration, and plant?
Or how should I adjust the components so that I do not get calcium-magnesium deficiencies?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Even though the Subcool recipe has calcium and magnesium, I find myself STILL having to add CalMag (and a 1" worm casting layer), or I can get calcium deficiencies.

Even with a super soil, by late veg or flower, you'll need to add ferts regularly. How long the original soil nutes last varies depending on pot size and the feeding needs of the strain you're growing. Also the rate of growth matters, i.e. how much light is driving the photosynthesis.

I am transitioned to 5 gal SIPs now, which are dependent on fertigation as you know. I'm early in the game with SIPs, but I'm liking the idea of less dependence on mixing large soil batches, and more dependence on fertigation. In the end I think SIPs allow more control over the ferts, and there's less fert waste due to runoff from conventional pots.

 

[CBDMed]

Even with a super soil, by late veg or flower, you'll need to add ferts regularly. How long the original soil nutes last varies depending on pot size and the feeding needs of the strain you're growing.

Excellent. Thank you!

I appreciated that you and Shed recommended bigger pots. It made sense. I thought if I went with the bigger pots then the roots will have more food to eat before we have to start supplementing (topdressing).

For topdress, I have a mess of Dude's Roots Terp Tea Bloom, but it draws bugs, so I thought to give them bigger pots. And when they do have to top-dress, I will also ask them to sprinkle a little dirt on top (to keep the bugs down).

Also the rate of growth matters, i.e. how much light is driving the photosynthesis.

Yes.
This will be straight Colombian sunlight. (There is usually cloudcover, but it is still pretty strong.)

I am transitioned to 5 gal SIPs now, which are dependent on fertigation as you know.

Glad to hear it.
Haha, when you say "fertigation", are you going MasterCrop on us?
Or are you referring to the supplementation that is added to the water (CalMag, PK-13/14, Re-charge, etc.) as "fertigation"?

I'm early in the game with SIPs, but I'm liking the idea of less dependence on mixing large soil batches, and more dependence on fertigation. In the end I think SIPs allow more control over the ferts, and there's less fert waste due to runoff from conventional pots.

Hahahaha, that sounds like you are going MasterCrop on us!! (And probably in coco, because you like coco...)
Lol!!

 

[cbdhemp808]

I don't know of this MasterCrop of which you speak, but I am using 1/3 coco in my SIP mix. Fertigation is just the addition of fertilizers to the water. I use high-N liquid fert, solution grade langbeinite (KMAG), solution grade calcium, seabird guano (dissolved/soaked), and kelp powder (dissolved/soaked).

 

[CBDMed]

I don't know of this MasterCrop of which you speak, but I am using 1/3 coco in my SIP mix. Fertigation is just the addition of fertilizers to the water. I use high-N liquid fert, solution grade langbeinite (KMAG), solution grade calcium, seabird guano (dissolved/soaked), and kelp powder (dissolved/soaked).

Down the tube? Or over the top?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Early in the grow, more directly to the soil. Later, more down the tube. When the plant starts really drinking it up, the reservoir gets wicked up into the soil rapidly... it's like watering from the bottom up!

 

[CBDMed]

The seedlings are all looking good, but the clones appear to have some kind of issues.
This is Dra. Seedsman #1:

Closeup:

This is Dra. seedsman #2.
There is also yellowing going on, but I'm not 100% sure if the pattern is the same, or not.

If a comparison would help, here is a Northern Light CBD clone.
It has received the same soil, the same treatment, same everything.

Any ideas what is causing the yellowing on the Dra. Seedsman clones??
Thanks.

 

[Bill284]

The seedlings are all looking good, but the clones appear to have some kind of issues.
This is Dra. Seedsman #1:

Closeup:

This is Dra. seedsman #2.
There is also yellowing going on, but I'm not 100% sure if the pattern is the same, or not.

If a comparison would help, here is a Northern Light CBD clone.
It has received the same soil, the same treatment, same everything.

Any ideas what is causing the yellowing on the Dra. Seedsman clones??
Thanks.

Hey Buddy
If the issue is only on the clones?
Not the seedlings.
And they all have the same soil with the same nutrients?
Is it a root issue with the clones?
Possibly not fully developed yet?
Otherwise judging by the droop and lack of vigor could be overwatered?
Not enough roots to uptake everything before rewatering again.




STAY SAFE
BILL284

 

[CBDMed]

Hey Buddy
If the issue is only on the clones?
Not the seedlings.
And they all have the same soil with the same nutrients?
Is it a root issue with the clones?
Possibly not fully developed yet?
Otherwise judging by the droop and lack of vigor could be overwatered?
Not enough roots to uptake everything before rewatering again.




STAY SAFE
BILL284

Hey, thanks, Bill!
Yes, it is only the clones.
Yes, that makes sense. I will try to let them get drier.

I also noticed some fungus gnats, so that also speaks of overwatering.
Thank you!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Are they all on the same wet/dry cycle? If it isn't a watering issue, perhaps pH, nutrient levels, or a particular nutrient is adversely affecting the Dr. Seedsman but not the NL. The NL is looking amazing... plenty of N for sure.

There's also a chance that the Dr. Seedsman picked up a root zone pathogen during the cloning process.

 

[CBDMed]

Are they all on the same wet/dry cycle? If it isn't a watering issue, perhaps pH, nutrient levels, or a particular nutrient is adversely affecting the Dr. Seedsman but not the NL. The NL is looking amazing... plenty of N for sure.

There's also a chance that the Dr. Seedsman picked up a root zone pathogen during the cloning process.

Thank you.
I think @Bill284 is right.
I looked at the soil, and it is too damp.
That also explains the fungus gnats.
I spread BTI water and then drained well, and will let them dry out for a few days.
I will let them get just a little wilty before I water them again.

 

[CBDMed]

OK that went way different than I thought.
We went to the property today to take the seedlings and the clones. Apparently we had some crossed communication because the contractor had a totally different plan.
I'm going to go with his plan because I need to get out from under the work, and he knows how to grow it this way, so we're just going to do that.

I thought we were going to do SWICK, but not. Today he said he wanted to use the drip irrigation. For that he wanted todig holes in the ground, and put the soil in the holes, and grow it in ground with drip irrigation.
That is why he put the cannabis section on one end of the greenhouse with the tree tomatoes, is it he wants to use the same runs of drip irrigation to water everything, to save time. (And I agree with saving time, because we need to make money. And I'm going to get my CBD and medicine either way.)

The first thing I noticed is that the screen mesh is not closed. The greenhouse is wide open, and they leave the door open. It's hard to explain but I think it's just that Colombian mindset that if it lives it lives, and if it dies they'll get a different strain. (I think that's how Mango Biche got to be bulletproof.)
I plan to talk to my manager and ask him if there's some way to seal it up more but they will probably still leave the door hanging wide open.
I can hear everyone asking and wondering why I'm not making a bigger stink but the main purpose of the farm is to cover the bills, and if I get 20 class B+ plants, I think I'm gonna hit my rosin press (and that should be a class A+ result).

This is the greenhouse from the work leader's house. The cannabis is on the close side.

Here's some of the gaps in the mesh (which we will have to have closed up later).
I'm super glad I'm going with preloading the soil, so there will be way less rotting manure smell to attract the bugs.

@cbdhemp808 , you were right, he wanted to mix everything everything everything together in one big mound, turn it over a dozen times, and then backfill the holes. So we took all the super soil and all of the other nutrients I was going to mix into the soil and we put everything plus the top 8 inches from each one of the holes into the big mound. I couldn't re-create the mix if my life depended on it but I'm pretty sure it's going to grow well. Father willing.

We added like I'm guessing 8 each 30 gallon trash cans of super soil +5 or six bags of potting soil.
They did not have the goat stall cleanings at the farm but they had some well composed chicken manure, so we used maybe 100 gallons of that.
I'm trying to remember, we used some rice hulls for aeration, plus lots of volcanic pus stones, myco, trico, etc.
we put a ton of volcanic rock dust. Maybe two big bags.
it seemed really weird to me to mix everything together like that but that's how he wanted to do it. I think he wanted the soil uniform so that it would handle moisture correctly.
We also used the top eight good inches of topsoil and then they had clay below that, so we had to throw gypsum in the hole to try to break through the clay long-term. This is a small 10 gallon hole for the Doctor Seedsman with gypsum at the bottom. You can see two more holes that are already backfilled.

Then we dug five each 50-60 gallon holes for the. Mango Biche.
I have my doubts that the tropical plant is going to flower correctly in a flipped season in the tropics but we should at least get some good seeds and some clones and then we can start again in March. (That's the big plan is to do this for now, and then we will start with with the seasons in March. But he knows how to do all that.)

It did not go the way I planned at all, but I felt it was important to let him do it, because I'm going to get back five or six hours a week.
Probably it will be B + grade cannabis but I've got to get my time back.
I'm sure he knows what he's doing and can give me a crop. So that feels good.
Then it was 3 PM in my assistant had to be back by 4 PM, so we had to go.
I feel like I'm sending my girls off to summer camp! ️ haha

As we left they still had to plant the 6 each 15 gallon holes for the intermediate sized plants but I am sure they will get it done.

Goodbye little girls! I hope to come check on you every few weeks!
Grow up big and strong!! I hope to come visit you soon!!

 

[CBDMed]

PS,
Hmm
So I guess come March, we will need to recondition the soil for the next grow.
It seems like the way he wants to do it, we will dig the soil out of the holes, and then recondition and remix it, and then stuff it back in the same holes, and start again.
So I have to think about what I can find locally that I want to add to the mix.

I do not I will be able to use bloodmeal or fishmeal unless I compost it first.
Maybe can I compost the blood meal in a bag of roots organic fertilizer, and then add that to the recomdition remix come March?
Maybe I can also compost fish meal?
They make some meals here that you can order in 50 pound sacks that would be appropriate for that kind of a remix, if it was properly composted. And I think if you buy it in 50 pound socks like that, that's the least expensive way to go.

Maybe next week sometime I can start looking for sacks that I want to buy and compost now, so they are ready for the remix and the reconditioning in March.
Thanks everyone for all of the help!!
Eventually I want to closed in greenhouse but I think it will be OK because we have all the fertilizer down in the soil.

The seedling room is empty, and we will probably just hand him Seeds from now on, and let him start them at the proper time. But my poor little seedling room is empty!

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey Med, lookin' good there.

One question, which are your clones and which are your seedlings? I know the MB are seedlings.

So, you'll be running your clones and MB in the greenhouse together. Do you plan on using night interruption lighting? If you don't, you'll be having very small plants from the clones.

RE: bloodmeal and fishmeal

How about using bat guano for N, and seabird guano for P? My understanding is that they are already composted/broken down.

PS> I like the idea of planting into the ground in the greenhouse, especially for the big sativas.