Humid Temperate Colombian Andes Greenhouse Organic Grow

[CBDMed]

Hey Med, lookin' good there.

Gracias, amigo.

One question, which are your clones and which are your seedlings? I know the MB are seedlings.

SEEDS:
Yes, the MB are all seedlings.
I kept the best looking 5.

2 Pineapple Kush sativa-leaning are from seed (and I pulled the indica-leaning one

7 Dr.S. seedlings (look kinda funky but I believe they will straighten out).

CLONES:
2 Dr. S. clones. They are the ones that look kinda yellow because I got them too wet.

2 NL CBD sativa leaning clones (and we will see if they survive).

1 Cookies & Cream sativa leaning clone (supposed to be mold resistant).

So, you'll be running your clones and MB in the greenhouse together. Do you plan on using night interruption lighting? If you don't, you'll be having very small plants from the clones.

Yes, they put the solar day-extension lights, but they need to spread them out better. The contractor knows what to do. I hope he will re-distribute them today. There are two of their strongest 7W kits, so I believe it should be bright enough to "extend" the day enough to keep them from flowering.

RE: bloodmeal and fishmeal

How about using bat guano for N, and seabird guano for P? My understanding is that they are already composted/broken down.

Probably I can find bat and seabird guano

PS> I like the idea of planting into the ground in the greenhouse, especially for the big sativas.

Glad to hear!
The first time they dig the holes out it is a pain, but after that it should get a lot easier.
I like going with the way my contractor knows how to do it, so he can take charge of it.

I will look for bat and seabird guano in bulk...

 

[cbdhemp808]

Yes, they put the solar day-extension lights, but they need to spread them out better. The contractor knows what to do. I hope he will re-distribute them today. There are two of their strongest 7W kits, so I believe it should be bright enough to "extend" the day enough to keep them from flowering.

Just put them on the timer to go on right in the middle of the night, half way through the dark period. Maybe for 5 minutes. If the whole wattage of a string is only 7W, that's very minimal—dunno if it will work. I am using about eight 13w daylight spectrum LED bulbs in my small veg house. The light needs to get all around the plants—tops and sides.

Probably I can find bat and seabird guano

Be sure to add a calcium source in the bottom of the holes (as well as in your mix), for example oyster shell powder. I understand that calcium is a great soil conditioner, so it should help break up the clay.

 

[CBDMed]

Hey @cbdhemp808 , is Mazar mold resistant? (Afghan x Skunk...)

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey @cbdhemp808 , is Mazar mold resistant? (Afghan x Skunk...)

Yes, some phenos should be. I think the terpinolene comes from Afghan. Fyi, the Skunk #1 profiles that I've seen look like typical indica profiles, with some having decent amounts of pinene. If I was going for an indica with terpinolene dominant, I would probably go for Afghan Kush rather than Mazar.

In this Mazar profile we see terpinolene dominant, plus ocimene and 0.09% total pinene. I think this is probably pheno #2 of Mazar which is tall as compared to the two short indica phenos. It may be a balanced 50/50 in terms of effects. As for fungi/mold resistance, I'm guessing bud rot resistant, but possibly not leaf mold resistant. I have a hunch that high pinene and myrcene are markers for leaf mold resistance.

 

[CBDMed]

Hi @cbdhemp808
I went looking for chemotype 3 from a sponsor. Cannapot had some offerings (and I had one successful order with them before).
Charlotte's Angel Auto is a great uplifting strain--it just did not have enough mold resistance. I guess someone crossed it with Blue Dream to make Charlotte's Dream. They say it has strong mold resistance.

Alien Technology Afghan Kush looks pretty good also, although that is Chemotype 1.

Your thoughts?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hi @cbdhemp808
I went looking for chemotype 3 from a sponsor. Cannapot had some offerings (and I had one successful order with them before).
Charlotte's Angel Auto is a great uplifting strain--it just did not have enough mold resistance. I guess someone crossed it with Blue Dream to make Charlotte's Dream. They say it has strong mold resistance.

Alien Technology Afghan Kush looks pretty good also, although that is Chemotype 1.

Your thoughts?

RE: Chemotype 3... Did you find out if GTR Seeds would ship to you? They have some high-CBD selections that are terpinolene dominant, as I mentioned before.

 

[CBDMed]

RE: Chemotype 3... Did you find out if GTR Seeds would ship to you? They have some high-CBD selections that are terpinolene dominant, as I mentioned before.

Yes, GTR has some very delectable-looking seeds, and they said that they would ship. Only, I am trying to get seeds from sponsors (to help the 420 website, as I appreciate their service).

I looked on Cannapot for a Type 3 with high mold resistance, and Harlequin and Charlotte's Dream came up. I love Harlequin, and Charlotte's Dream sounds dreamy, so that is two Type 3s.

For Type 1 mold resistant they had Colombian Gold and the Afghan "Alien Technology" strain...but it occurs to me that that is probably Afghani (regular) rather than Afghan Kush per se.

I realized I also have some seeds for Hindu Kush. How much difference will there likely be between Hindu Kush, Afghan Kush, and just plain good old "Afghan" (or "Alien Technology")?

 

[cbdhemp808]

Yes, GTR has some very delectable-looking seeds, and they said that they would ship. Only, I am trying to get seeds from sponsors (to help the 420 website, as I appreciate their service).

I hear you, but I think it makes total sense to use GTR because of the requirements of high CBD production in addition to high mold resistance. Those breeders are some of the best in the business. They specialize in type 3. Very high quality stuff. Their "sour" line was actually specifically bred for high terpinolene.

You could use sponsors for THC seeds.

I looked on Cannapot for a Type 3 with high mold resistance, and Harlequin and Charlotte's Dream came up. I love Harlequin, and Charlotte's Dream sounds dreamy, so that is two Type 3s.

I think Harle Tsu (type 3) would be better than Harlequin (type 2?). My choice however would be some selections from GTR.

For Type 1 mold resistant they had Colombian Gold and the Afghan "Alien Technology" strain...but it occurs to me that that is probably Afghani (regular) rather than Afghan Kush per se.

I realized I also have some seeds for Hindu Kush. How much difference will there likely be between Hindu Kush, Afghan Kush, and just plain good old "Afghan" (or "Alien Technology")?

Colombian Gold is a sativa, while Afghan is indica. Colombian Gold is probably a good bet for fungus/mold resistance. I researched Afghan and found high terpinolene. Afghan and Afghan Kush may be names for the same thing. I think the important thing is to acquire close to a pure Afghani.

 

[CBDMed]

I hear you, but I think it makes total sense to use GTR because of the requirements of high CBD production in addition to high mold resistance. Those breeders are some of the best in the business. They specialize in type 3. Very high quality stuff. Their "sour" line was actually specifically bred for high terpinolene.

You could use sponsors for THC seeds.

Good ideas, thanks.
Yes, GTR does seem excellent.
I have plenty of seeds for the March planting, but I will definitely keep them in mind for the future.
Haha, why don't they sponsor 420? Haha.

I think Harle Tsu (type 3) would be better than Harlequin (type 2?). My choice however would be some selections from GTR.


Colombian Gold is a sativa, while Afghan is indica. Colombian Gold is probably a good bet for fungus/mold resistance. I researched Afghan and found high terpinolene. Afghan and Afghan Kush may be names for the same thing. I think the important thing is to acquire close to a pure Afghani.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Yes, GTR does seem excellent.
I have plenty of seeds for the March planting, but I will definitely keep them in mind for the future.
Haha, why don't they sponsor 420? Haha.

@420 how about inviting Oregon CBD/GTR seeds to be sponsors? They are masters of chemotype 3 CBD genetics.

 

[CBDMed]

I think I have kind of a mess here. I do not like the answer, but I think it is what it is.
I hope I can explain clearly. I think I might have a good plan, but I am not sure.

Daylight and weather situation:
Even though we are technically 1 degree north of the equator, the seasons here in this valley belong to South America. (That is, they are "inverted" for North America--summer is winter and winter is summer.)
Winter starts here in late March or early April (i.e., after the Spring Equinox on 3/21).
Summer starts here at the Fall Equinox on 9/21. Plants start to flower automatically at this time.
The amount of daylight changes by only a very few minutes (like 8 minutes difference, or something) but the "summers" (September thru March) are maybe 8-10F warmer and wetter (sort of a soft monsoon season).
Between the weather being warmer and the days being shorter, the tropical plants know to flower then.

What I want is to plant the next batch of seeds after 3/21 and then let the plants grow with the seasons. I think this will solve many problems. But right now I have to solve cloning problems for both the European and Colombian girls.

European girls:
I started the most recent batch of seeds indoors under 15/8 lighting. I think that was like a couple of months ago (I forget) so the plants are still small.
We took them to the farm maybe 3 weeks ago, and (contrary to my plans) it was an all-day affair.
My assistant told me a few days ago that the transplants got super stressed and shocked during the transplant, and they thought they were all going to die--but as of a few days ago, the plants are all finally recovered.
It is nice that they are recovered, except it means that they will NOT have grown very much, because they were recovering from the shock. So they will still be very small at this point.

We are using solar daylight-extender lights to keep them from flowering.
European genetics need 8-10 weeks to flower--so we will call it 10 weeks.
So if I hypothetically want to plant the next batch of seeds on 3/21 then I need to pull the daylight-extender lights 10 weeks before that, so the plants can flower out and finish up.
That would mean that I should pull the lights as early as 1/10/25. That will mean pretty small plants---but then the next crop will be in sync with the local weather (which is what I need)---so I think I just need to do it.

European girl questions:
We need to take clones before flowering.
We are vegging under daylight-extender lights.
If we take clones, won't they ALSO need daylight-extender lights, to keep them from flipping into flower?
But so how do I get the clones to shift to the local cycle (without the need for extender lights)?
I am not sure that there is a way.
I know that they know how to clone here, but they do not use the extender lights. So I am not sure how to make it work.

Tropical girl questions:
The tropical girls (Mango Biche regulars) are supposed to take 4 months to flower out.
That means that even if we flipped them yesterday, there is not enough time to finish flowering, if we plant the next batch of seeds on 3/21 (or shortly thereafter).
We put 5 Mango Biche regulars.
If we had put them in buckets we could keep them isolated, but the contractor decided he wanted everything in ground (which is probably better).
So, the plan is to take the very first of the male flowers, pollinate one or two branches on the best looking females, and then destroy the males (and save the seed).

We can probably hypothetically chop the tropical girls at 10 weeks of flowering (which probably gives us viable seed for the fridge).
Only, I wonder, if we started tropical girls under 15/8 lighting, and then pull the daylight-extender lights on 1/10/25, what happens on 3/21? Will the tropical girls continue to flower? Or will they stop flowering and re-veg (WITHOUT putting the daylight-extender lights again)?
And will it be possible to make clones without putting daylight-extender lights? Or how do I navigate that?

Thank you.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Hey, Med!

I think I have kind of a mess here. I do not like the answer, but I think it is what it is.
I hope I can explain clearly. I think I might have a good plan, but I am not sure.

Daylight and weather situation:
Even though we are technically 1 degree north of the equator, the seasons here in this valley belong to South America. (That is, they are "inverted" for North America--summer is winter and winter is summer.)
Winter starts here in late March or early April (i.e., after the Spring Equinox on 3/21).
Summer starts here at the Fall Equinox on 9/21. Plants start to flower automatically at this time.
The amount of daylight changes by only a very few minutes (like 8 minutes difference, or something) but the "summers" (September thru March) are maybe 8-10F warmer and wetter (sort of a soft monsoon season).
Between the weather being warmer and the days being shorter, the tropical plants know to flower then.

What I want is to plant the next batch of seeds after 3/21 and then let the plants grow with the seasons. I think this will solve many problems. But right now I have to solve cloning problems for both the European and Colombian girls.

European girls:
I started the most recent batch of seeds indoors under 15/8 lighting. I think that was like a couple of months ago (I forget) so the plants are still small.
We took them to the farm maybe 3 weeks ago, and (contrary to my plans) it was an all-day affair.
My assistant told me a few days ago that the transplants got super stressed and shocked during the transplant, and they thought they were all going to die--but as of a few days ago, the plants are all finally recovered.
It is nice that they are recovered, except it means that they will NOT have grown very much, because they were recovering from the shock. So they will still be very small at this point.

We are using solar daylight-extender lights to keep them from flowering.
European genetics need 8-10 weeks to flower--so we will call it 10 weeks.
So if I hypothetically want to plant the next batch of seeds on 3/21 then I need to pull the daylight-extender lights 10 weeks before that, so the plants can flower out and finish up.
That would mean that I should pull the lights as early as 1/10/25. That will mean pretty small plants---but then the next crop will be in sync with the local weather (which is what I need)---so I think I just need to do it.

European girl questions:
We need to take clones before flowering.
We are vegging under daylight-extender lights.
If we take clones, won't they ALSO need daylight-extender lights, to keep them from flipping into flower?
But so how do I get the clones to shift to the local cycle (without the need for extender lights)?
I am not sure that there is a way.
I know that they know how to clone here, but they do not use the extender lights. So I am not sure how to make it work.

Tropical girl questions:
The tropical girls (Mango Biche regulars) are supposed to take 4 months to flower out.
That means that even if we flipped them yesterday, there is not enough time to finish flowering, if we plant the next batch of seeds on 3/21 (or shortly thereafter).
We put 5 Mango Biche regulars.
If we had put them in buckets we could keep them isolated, but the contractor decided he wanted everything in ground (which is probably better).
So, the plan is to take the very first of the male flowers, pollinate one or two branches on the best looking females, and then destroy the males (and save the seed).

We can probably hypothetically chop the tropical girls at 10 weeks of flowering (which probably gives us viable seed for the fridge).
Only, I wonder, if we started tropical girls under 15/8 lighting, and then pull the daylight-extender lights on 1/10/25, what happens on 3/21? Will the tropical girls continue to flower? Or will they stop flowering and re-veg (WITHOUT putting the daylight-extender lights again)?
And will it be possible to make clones without putting daylight-extender lights? Or how do I navigate that?

Thank you.

This pretty much made my head explode!

I think you are planning to manage night interruption in the big greenhouse, where there will be the local tropical Mango Biche and non-tropical seedlings at different or same times. And clones as well. The timing of all of this appears to be somewhat in question. How am I doing? OK, here's some general guidelines...

(I am assuming here that all plants are photoperiod. If there are some autos, then none of the below applies to them... they can share the greenhouse and are not affected by night interruption.)

New seedlings, plants in veg, clone cuttings, and clones should all be in a veg house type environment, with night interruption going on every night. Day extension is not needed, and is basically just a waste of electric power, if your intention is the keep the plants from starting to flower. All that's needed are some very brief blasts of light in the middle of the night. (I use midnight, 2am, 4am, for about 3 min. each). (Note: The term "day extension" I think is usually used to imply that photosynthetic lighting is used in the early morning, or at dusk, to extend the length of the day, and thereby decrease the length of the night. Photosynthetic means mimicking the sun—i.e. high-wattage LEDs.)

Plants in flower should be nowhere near the veg house. There shouldn't be any significant amount of light coming from the veg house that will reach the flowering plants.

If you only have one greenhouse, there's really not a great way to have it divided up into veg house and flower house. If you want to have sequential time periods where veg follows flower, or flower follows veg, then ALL plants need to be in one or the other phase, as in... 1) all plants are flowering, then harvested, and then new plants come in and are in veg (w/ night interruption); 2) all plants are in veg (w/ night interruption), then all flip to flower (at the same time), and then all are harvested. I'm not sure which scenario, 1 or 2, would better apply to what you're trying to accomplish.

As long as the Mango Biche isn't getting close to the start of its normal flowering time, it won't care if night interruption is being used.

I hope this helps!

 

[CBDMed]

Hey, Med!

This pretty much made my head explode!

Sorry about that! It pretty much makes my head want to explode also! I think I've got a perfect mess here.
I can also see that I did not do a good job of explaining the situation.
Please let me try again.

I think you are planning to manage night interruption in the big greenhouse, where there will be the local tropical Mango Biche and non-tropical seedlings at different or same times. And clones as well. The timing of all of this appears to be somewhat in question. How am I doing?

Well, let me back up, and start over, and try it again this way...
The main thing is that the farm has to make money so we can pay the bills.
We have a contractor who used to grow for the traffickers in the Cauca. He is really transforming the farm operation to where it looks like we're going to make it, so we are pretty happy about that.
As an additional bonus, he grew cannabis outdoors in the Cauca, so he knows about making clones, and growing everything in the cheapest possible commercial way (probably sure with chemical pesticides and chemical fertilizers). I think probably they just cut clones and stick them in solo cups and that's it.
He said he would gladly grow the cannabis out organically, but the problem is that they have ultra low tech methods here. Everything is done the cheapest possible way.
They plant at the start of winter (in March), they vegetate all winter (with just plastic sidewalls, and with no lights or anything), and then the stuff starts to flower on its own come September/October (because of the Autumnal Equinox, and the fact that the weather starts to get warmer). (That is what I want to do, just with well prepared super soil.)
...
Tropical vs. European seeds
I think tropical seeds are adapted to the weather here, so they know when it is winter and when it is summer, because they have been growing here that long, that's just how they do. I am not sure if they are that sensitive to the lighting that they know to flip at the fall equinox,, or if they also take into account that it starts to get warmer, or what they do.
I am also not sure what happens with European (or North American) photos that are not adapted to the tropical environment. If you put European seeds, do they just start flowering because it's always around 12 hours of daylight? Meaning, do you have to put night interruption (or daylight extension) lighting to get them to veg? Or do they grow normally if you plant them on March 21st or later??
I do not know.

Is @elcoloan still here??
@elcoloan, if you order European or North American seeds, and plant them in a greenhouse outdoors at the end of March, will they veg?? Or do they need night lighting (longer daylight) to stay in veg and not flower?
(If I knew that, then I would know how to approach everything else.)

Lights and other issues:

OK, here's some general guidelines...
(I am assuming here that all plants are photoperiod.

Yes, all photo fem this time.

And I don't really have equipment to do proper "night interruption lighting". To get an actual solar panels, battery bank, inverter and a timer etc. would have been more money.
What I got instead was some all-in-one solar powered patio lights that turn on automatically at dusk. Then they give you like five or six hours of light--so if the sun goes down at 6 PM they stay on until midnight, or if the sun goes down at 9 PM they stay on until 3 AM. Do you know what I'm saying?
The lights are not very powerful, but the whole purpose is to stop the plant from creating flowering hormone.
I saw a documentary that said in Colombia sometimes they will put a cheap 13W (100W equivalent) LED bulb up for a dozen plants or something, and it's enough light to stop them from flowering. (They probably cannot really grow with that much light, but I think what it does is that it keeps the plant from sleeping well, and producing the flowering hormone. Do you know what I'm saying?)

I could have invested in proper night interruption lighting but it would have been more money, and I don't really want to go that way. I'm trying to go as natural and eco-sustainable and low cost as is practical, and still get good quality medicine.
An ideal grow for me would be to plant seeds at the end of March, and let them vegetate all winter without lighting, and then have them flower out automatically starting in September and October, and all I do is mix super soil for them to grow in, and then the crew does the rest of the work (so I can get my time back).

Clones and males
I spoke with them already about a separate tent for vegetation and a separate tent for males. I'm starting to wonder if they're just telling me what they think I want to hear because I don't think they have built any more tents.
Ha ha, I think it is impossible to move the males to the male tent when you plant them in the ground. Or when you have not built a tent for males.

Normally I would kick a fuss, but in this particular case I don't want to make trouble because frankly I'm not sure who I would replace the contractor with at this point, and making ends meet is the most important thing. Plus I think I can probably still get my needs met, I just may have to spend more on seeds than I wanted.

Reality check
Just as a simply practical matter, given the overall situation, I think the simplest and easiest thing might be just if I just hand the contractor 20 photo fem seeds in March, and then let him do his thing from seed. And take clones (assuming he really knows how).
We can put lights in the clone room if needed.
I have my doubts if they're going to be able to maintain a real stable of clones. I guess we just have to see.

I hope I'm explaining well. I think the main thing I need to know right now is if you put European or North American seeds in the ground on March 21 or afterward, do they need lights to keep them from flowering? Or will they grow up acclimatized correctly?
There's more to say but I need to know that first.
I hope I am explaining correctly.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I'll write more later, but I just wanted to give you my first impression/first hit/gut reaction...

If you just let your contractor guy grow a single crop of Mango Biche for you, and get a good harvest, that would be a nice accomplishment... probably quite a quantity of buds. And it sounds like he could pull it off.

All the other stuff sounds like a bit of stretch to me, given the high altitude location, distance from where you live (yeah?), no electric power, and all the intricacies of lighting or not, night interruption or not, tropical/local genetics or not, cloning, isolating pollen-bearing males or not, breeding, planting in the ground or not, etc.

If all that stuff was going on in your backyard, and you had a veg house with cloning table, and a separate flower house, etc., it would be all way more doable.

That's my 2-1/2 cents for now. 4:12am here... I need to finish up some stuff and get some sleep.

 

[CBDMed]

I'll write more later, but I just wanted to give you my first impression/first hit/gut reaction...

If you just let your contractor guy grow a single crop of Mango Biche for you, and get a good harvest, that would be a nice accomplishment... probably quite a quantity of buds. And it sounds like he could pull it off.

Yes, I agree.
Even if he wants to do a mono-crop for me, that would work, but I would probably want him to grow some type of Chemotype 2 (balanced THC/CBD) crop.
(But really I want more than one flavor...)

All the other stuff sounds like a bit of stretch to me, given the high altitude location, distance from where you live (yeah?), no electric power, and all the intricacies of lighting or not, night interruption or not, tropical/local genetics or not, cloning, isolating pollen-bearing males or not, breeding, planting in the ground or not, etc.

Yeah, well, believe it or not, they do grow cannabis here, haha .
True, it is super-low-tech, but that is kind of the goal, in one sense.

If all that stuff was going on in your backyard, and you had a veg house with cloning table, and a separate flower house, etc., it would be all way more doable.

Yes, I imagine it will go a lot better if I ever get moved to the property.
If I ever get moved to the property, then we can build a real screened greenhouse for the cannabis, and we can let the tree tomatoe greenhouse grow tree tomatoes.
In the meantime, if he can grow me quantity (20 plants), then I can press it out and make rosin (which should make up for the lack of quality).
Or maybe we can get the quality good enough so pressing is not necessary.

That's my 2-1/2 cents for now. 4:12am here... I need to finish up some stuff and get some sleep.

Thanks, hemp!!
I wrote to two different Colombian canna shops, to ask them if I can plant after March 21st with European seeds, or if that only works with seeds that are already adapted.
We will see if anyone knows, or if they just make up a bunch of stuff!
Either way I think it should work but it would be nice to know in advance in case we need extra lighting to suppress flowering during veg.
Basically it comes down to how fast seeds will adapt to this climate and lighting...
Good sleep and rest.

 

[cbdhemp808]

I wrote to two different Colombian canna shops, to ask them if I can plant after March 21st with European seeds, or if that only works with seeds that are already adapted.
We will see if anyone knows, or if they just make up a bunch of stuff!
Either way I think it should work but it would be nice to know in advance in case we need extra lighting to suppress flowering during veg.
Basically it comes down to how fast seeds will adapt to this climate and lighting...

Check back in the thread... I recall giving you quite a bit of feedback regarding the concept of adaptation.

 

[CBDMed]

Ahh, ok, one of them says:
"...I would like to tell you that this only works with lines or strains adapted to the tropics. For those varieties that are not acclimatized and phyto-improved (European or North American varieties), you should complement the photoperiod [with more light to shorten the night], if possible making a genetic selection of each variety that behaves ideally under your technical and climatic conditions."

So I will have to add night lighting to the European strains outdoors until they adapt (and we will have to see how many seasons that takes).
I am guessing it will take at least one season to adapt (and probably more). But we can do that.

 

[cbdhemp808]

Ahh, ok, one of them says:
"...I would like to tell you that this only works with lines or strains adapted to the tropics. For those varieties that are not acclimatized and phyto-improved (European or North American varieties), you should complement the photoperiod [with more light to shorten the night], if possible making a genetic selection of each variety that behaves ideally under your technical and climatic conditions."

Yep. And then like I've said, you pick the phenos that perform the best, and then clone them.

So I will have to add night lighting to the European strains outdoors until they adapt (and we will have to see how many seasons that takes). I am guessing it will take at least one season to adapt (and probably more). But we can do that.

That's not how it works. Yes you need night interruption for them, but they don't "adapt" to not needing that. They will always need night interruption, because they are not native tropical sativas.

I go sleep now

 

[CBDMed]

Check back in the thread... I recall giving you quite a bit of feedback regarding the concept of adaptation.

Ok, I see two hits:

This is what you wrote in the thread:

**

Sorry, I just now checked out what you posted above... details of Mango Biche. Yes, very long lifecycle and flowering time (34 weeks total... almost 8 months!) Very tall plants. Psychedelic high. This is probably a safe bet for your location. I couldn't find any terpene information though.

If you are open to sativas with long flowering times, there are a great many in this category. One that comes up high on my list is Super Lemon Haze with terpinolene dominant. 6 weeks veg, 9-10 weeks flowering.

Super Lemon Haze, photo by @Nicholas Flamel , 2020

I'm currently working on finding a fast-flowering sativa-dominant strain/pheno that's high in pine terpenes. I recently found out that Humboldt Seed Company has several sativas in the 45-55 day range for flowering time. The sativa pheno of Sugar Black Rose looks promising, as does SubCool's Chernobyl, specifically the Slymer cut (aka Golden Ticket)... 8-9 weeks in flower.

On a farm? Yes. Is that a mistake?
A few grows ago I had a crop that all turned brown. At first I thought it was salt, but that does not match the pattern. It turns out is was a mite. That was a supersoil grow, nothing really smelly to attract bugs, and the mites got me indoors.
So am I wrong to be concerned about attracting the wrong kind of bugs on a farm?

From my experience, outdoor bugs are either a problem or they're not, depending on location and climate. In other words, it's not a given that you'll have bug problems. But if you already know that bugs are a problem in that location, then yes, you'll need to be ready with something to spray. As you know, my go to is neem oil mixed with Bronner's peppermint soap and water, applied with a pump sprayer.

I need to talk with them. There is less topsoil than I thought--about 6-8". We can amend the ground, and that would work. Just use tons of compost and build tilth, and then maybe I can adapt Subcool's amendments into soil in ground??
They want to use drip irrigation. What makes sense is fabric pots with ice-pik holes in the sides in plastic tubs, then put the dripper, and you have auto-fed SWICK.

Oh wow, yeah... that's not enough topsoil. You could use squat 10 gal nursery pots and fill with supersoil.

My thought was that, as a landrace, it has resistance to Colombian bugs, viruses, etc.
It sounds like you are saying that outside genetics may transplant and adapt just as well, if not better? (If so, that would be great.

Yeah, I think what you want is faster lifespan and faster flowering time. Maybe the Super Lemon Haze.

Well, I think we are on a good start. Haha, maybe are you saying that Canadian genetics can adapt well to the cool, humid Colombian Andes?

I don't think I said anything about Canadian genetics. But generally, yeah, I think as long as you've got the high resin production, and high pine terpenes, then you should have fungus/mold resistance. There's no "adaptation" going on... it's just that the genetics are either resistant or they're not. Bugs is another story, and yeah, you could have locally adapted plants that are more resistant to the local bugs... I don't know.

Maybe if "landracing" is a thing of the past, because now everyone uses feminized seeds, then it would be a different game.
Yes it is a question of budget right now, and long term. I already have many seeds, I just need to grow them out, and like you say, keep the ones that work. And just keep it simple like that.

About Pineapple Kush, too bad Tweedle would not ship. I can also order Pineapple Kush from RQS, but it will be $50 by the time we are all done. Probably I need to wait until I grow out what I already have before ordering any more seeds.

Try ordering Pineapple Kush directly from East Fork Cultivars.

**

Is this the post you were referring to?
You advised me about adaptations regarding bugs and mold resistance (and thank you! It was very helpful advice!)
Only, in this particular instance I am talking about adapting from a Northern Hemisphere light regimen (varying from 9-18 hours of sunlight a day) to a tropical light regimen (varying from say 12:07 hours to 12:00 hours of light a day).
I hope I am communicating clearly.

 

[CBDMed]

Yep. And then like I've said, you pick the phenos that perform the best, and then clone them.


That's not how it works. Yes you need night interruption for them, but they don't "adapt" to not needing that. They will always need night interruption, because they are not native tropical sativas.

Ok. But they brought the sativas originally from Africa, no? Did they only import tropical sativas?
Or how did the African sativas get adapted to the Colombian tropics?
(Or does that take thousands of years?)

I go sleep now

Happy sleep.
Tomorrow is good for more discussion.
Happy counting sheep.