Humid Temperate Colombian Andes Greenhouse Organic Grow

The ones in the back, right side are flowering. Are you using night interruption lighting? Must do.
As mentioned before, the ones in the back right are a re-veg situation.
The lightning schedule is 6 AM until 9 PM, so 15/8.

The ones in the back, left side are lacking nutrients.

Yes, and I am asking myself what to do about it. I think the only thing I can do is to pull those out of the Azi cup, and make some more of the bluter cups, because the bluter cups have a reservoir in the lower 1/3.
The only thing is, some of the clones in the bluter cups also look pale! So I am obviously doing something wrong, but I do not know what.
I would say in general you are leaving too much leaf on the cuttings.

Yes, I could trim the faded upper leaves but I want to leave those. The only leaves I can cut are the lower leaves, but they are still green! So I think I need to make a bliter-style reservoir cup and fill it with a light fertigation solution.
I'll take a photo of my clones so you can see what I mean. Do you see any roots coming out the bottom? That's what I cue on... when I see some roots out the bottom, I up-pot to 1 gal.
No, I have not seen anything like that. And it is the clones that fail, but when I pull them out there's really no roots. There are like 10 little sad pieces of perlite sticking to the stem, but no roots.
So, I asked myself, maybe those are the ones that have no roots because those are the ones that failed?
I am hesitant to break apart the existing Azicups, but the ones in the back left need some nutrition for sure, so I think I might have to chance it. (And if it does not work, I think I have some more of the seeds somewhere.)

Haha, guess I need practice taking clones?
 
I am hesitant to break apart the existing Azicups, but the ones in the back left need some nutrition for sure, so I think I might have to chance it. (And if it does not work, I think I have some more of the seeds somewhere.)
Try a foliar on them before breaking them apart.
 
Try a foliar on them before breaking them apart.
Oops! 😬 too late!
I just got your post. I was already started.

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The left stem is mush. (Bye bye...)

The right stem still has some firmness but it doesn't look great. I trimmed it, and put it in a bluter cup with aloe vera gel, and we will see if it makes it.

image0.jpeg


I trimmed the one in the center to just below where the roots were coming out, and I smeared it all around in aloe vera tentacle juice/gel, and then potted it up in potting soil with some mycorrhiza.
Then I put a clear plastic cup on top (with some air holes in it) for a moisture dome, and we will see how we do. (Foreground left.) there were not that many roots so probably I will leave the moisture dome for a while. Maybe next week I will start testing to see how it does without the dome.
If it works, I might try to pot up more.

I also took a whole bunch more reveg CBD Jam clones. I potted them up with aloe vera leaf juice/gel, and put them in bluter cups (foreground on right). I will probably spray them a lot for the next few days, and then once they are stable I will spray only the perlite.
I might do another Azi cup, but with aloe vera gel.

One of the Mango Biche seeds has come up. We will see if more come up.
 
Now that your potted clone has rooted, I wouldn't leave the dome on for too long, couple of days max. You want the plant getting its moisture and nutrients through its roots and a dome just delays that whole process.
 
Now that your potted clone has rooted, I wouldn't leave the dome on for too long, couple of days max. You want the plant getting its moisture and bonuses through its roots and a dome just delays that whole process.

Thanks. :thumb:
I hear it. I just want to ease the shock of going from perlite to aloe-and-soil (if there is any).
(I am hoping there will not be shock, and I cannot imagine why there would be shock from going from perlite to soil, but I do not want to wake up in the morning to a wilted clone.)
I will try to pull the dome tomorrow, and check each 5 or 10 minutes, to see how she does.

If this works, I want to pot up some more.
I am hopeful about the aloe vera.

...

PS EDIT and the girl who just came up was NOT a Mango Biche. She was a Sour Tsunami CBD.
So far no Mango Biche have come up.

I looked, and they do sell Mango Biche feminized.
Pineapple Kush is supposed to get here tomorrow, so I might plant some of those.

Maybe next year I can get three fresh photo fems of Mango Biche (and maybe some Super Lemon Haze, or Llimonet Haze.)
I am a little scared to grow full-size Mango Biche without CBD. I think if I grow 4m / 12 ft. Mango Biche's, I will need to grow 6 CBD plants to match up with each plant!
 
Ok, CBD Jam looks good! I took her humidity dome off this morning and she's been fine all day.
:slide:

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I also had a pleasant surprise! 😮
This little girl is in a Mango Biche seed cup, but she is outside of the starter cube! I think I went digging in that cube, and maybe the seed got pulled out and put in soil in the way I did not notice, and now she is up? (Ha ha, at least she knows how to think outside the cube!)
She came up with helmet head, so I had to help her with some surgery.
She is at the end of the yellow pointer stick. I almost did not see her with her helmet on! (She is a little bit more visible with her helmet off,)

image0.jpeg


I am just guessing that is a Mango Biche, so I hope she is a fem!
Hope to get time to check the CBD clones for roots tomorrow. If she is a Mango Biche then I will need lots and lots of CBD plants!

Three Pineapple Kush also came today. They are taking a bath. Since they also have no CBD, I will need more CBD plants for them also.

Slot planning:
I am just guessing that a 12 foot tall Mango Biche is going to need like 5 CBD plants to balance it, so we will call that 6 plants (including the MB).
Then I think 3 Pineapple Kush will need maybe 2 CBD plants to balance it. (So that is 5 more slots.)
So, that is 11 plants right there!
That means I only have 9 other slots to work with.
I also already have 2 Cannatonic and 2 Sour Tsunami CBD up, so that leaves only 4 slots left! 😱😱😱😱

I want several Peyote WiFi CBD (as earthy diesel 2:1 CBD just smells so good, and she is SO very frosty!), and also CBD Jam (pineapple 2:1 CBD).
I also wanted to maintain the sativa Northern Lights CBD sativa.
I am out of slots!! 😱😱😱😱
 
I am out of slots!! 😱😱😱😱
Hahahaha
PS reality check!
You know, I am sure lots of people would love to have this problem! So, I should really just count my blessings.

One option is that I do not necessarily need to grow enough CBD plants to match the Mango Britches 😂 right now. Rather, I could harvest the MB, and put it into the cob, and then grow the CBD later.

Haha, does anyone make a large all-CBD sativa or indica?

I hope this will be a good clone mother!
 
Haha, does anyone make a large all-CBD sativa or indica?
I have a couple phenos of Cherry Blossom that get quite large. They are around 10% CBD and I would say indica dominant.

If you want more like 15-18%, then try Oregon CBD... they've got the good stuff... GTR Seeds. I recommend their Sour Hawaiian Haze, sativa dominant, CBD up to 18%, myrcene/terpinolene dominant w/ caryophyllene and alpha-pinene. Lineage: DC Haze x Gorilla Glue #4 Conversion. GG4 Conversion is their own in-house bred high-terpinolene CBD version of Gorilla Glue. GG4 is known to reach over 6 ft tall. I believe DC Haze is ACDC x Neville's Haze. Neville's can reach 8 ft. ACDC CBD can reach 5 ft. Both are sativa dominant.

Sour Hawaiian Haze CBD
1729241265871.png

photo: Fern Valley Farms
 
I have a couple phenos of Cherry Blossom that get quite large. They are around 10% CBD and I would say indica dominant.

If you want more like 15-18%, then try Oregon CBD... they've got the good stuff... GTR Seeds. I recommend their Sour Hawaiian Haze, sativa dominant, CBD up to 18%, myrcene/terpinolene dominant w/ caryophyllene and alpha-pinene. Lineage: DC Haze x Gorilla Glue #4 Conversion. GG4 Conversion is their own in-house bred high-terpinolene CBD version of Gorilla Glue. GG4 is known to reach over 6 ft tall. I believe DC Haze is ACDC x Neville's Haze. Neville's can reach 8 ft. ACDC CBD can reach 5 ft. Both are sativa dominant.

Sour Hawaiian Haze CBD
1729241265871.png

photo: Fern Valley Farms
Wow, Sour Hawaiian Haze sounds excellent. I will try to check them out real soon.
Actually, with all the moisture, I think I should stick with sativa, but that sounds great!
:yummy:
:thanks:
 
OK, with no aloe, and just using light veg nutrients, all three of the new blutercups looked like this. They did not have a LOT of roots, but they all had SOME.
I clipped the end again, smeared them in aloe, and put them in soil.

bc.jpg


Some of the Azicups had a LOT more roots, but some also had none. (Peyote WiFi CBD had none on any of the stalks.)
I clipped the ends fresh, smeared them in aloe, and potted them up.
I thought about putting moisture domes on the PWF just for now, but then I thought no, if they can extract the moisture they need from sprayed perlite, then if I smeared aloe, they should be able to extract the moisture they need from the soil--so I will monitor them, and if they start to wilt I will put the domes on.
new stable.jpg


So I guess we will see, but for now everything looks good.
Foreground left is seeds that still need to pop, on a heat mat.
Foreground right is blutercups and the CBD Jam I potted up a few days ago (looking pale but otherwise fine).
Back right are new seedlings.
Back center and left are the clones I just potted up.

I have not had time to search for tall CBD seeds yet, but hopefully soon.
 
Wow, Sour Hawaiian Haze sounds excellent. I will try to check them out real soon.
Actually, with all the moisture, I think I should stick with sativa, but that sounds great!
:yummy:
:thanks:
Sour Hawaiian Haze CBD is sativa dominant. The structure is like other Haze plants, and similar to some tropical landraces, for example Mango Thai.
 
Sour Hawaiian Haze CBD is sativa dominant. The structure is like other Haze plants, and similar to some tropical landraces, for example Mango Thai.
Hey @cbdhemp808 , thank you for the good tips!
GTR says they do now ship to Colombia, which is good news. (Details below.)
But I think I should wait until next year to purchase, because we are scraping our pesos at this moment in time, and I already have a full house!

I planted some older regular seeds. The seeds were regulars (because I thought I was going to do regulars at one point), but I tried to select for round belly buttons (which are supposed to be females). I'm not sure I did it right but I tried.
So far, the following strains have come up:

1 DeliMed CBD photo fem (I am not sure if I will plant one more or not.)
4 Dr. Seedsman (30:1) - 4 clone fems with roots now in soil
3 Candida fems
1 Mango Biche (monster sativa) 1 (I hope it is a female).
2 Cannatonic (I hope fems)
3 Sour Tsunami CBD (I hope fems--the third one just came up.

And then more clones:
3 CBD Jam: maybe ten fresh clones, one already in soil.
3 Peyote Wi-Fi CBD. I have maybe six clones that had NO roots when I pulled them out of the Azicup. I re-scraped lightly, trimmed the ends, smeared them with aloe gel and put them in soil on the premise that maybe they will take in soil??? (I hope I can keep them... They look so frosty and smell so good!!)

I planted the Pineapple Kush three days ago, and so far nothing. They are way too early to write off, but even if they do not come up, I think I have a full house anyway.

That is 20 seeds above. The Cannatonic, the Sour Tsunami CBD and the Mango Biche were all regulars, so with 6 seedlings, we will see if they are females or not?
(Maybe I will have @3 males? So maybe I will "only" have 17 plants?

Now that I look at the list, I see I have a lot of diesel going on.

If the Pineapple Kush do not come up, then I will have eight small CBD plants for one giant sativa.
Even if one of the Pineapple Kush come up, think I should still be OK for CBD for this grow, because everyone else is already balanced somewhere in between 1:1 and 2:1, so I should really be OK on this grow, even with smaller CBD plants.
And so, since we are on a tight budget, next year I can write GTR Seeds and get some of the bigger, exotic CBD plants. Their CBD seeds sound super delish!!
But I should probably wait until next year to order, so the seed will be that much fresher. (They sound great!)
(And maybe by that time a sponsor will carry them also.)

**

Hello,
Thank you for your interest.
We do ship seeds to Columbia with UPS and it has been very reliable. We do not have any retailers in Columbia.

Sour Hawaiian Haze is one of our most popular varieties for smokeable flower production, it is fantastic.

If you are looking for another CBD variety that get large, check out Lifter. It is often one of our biggest producers with very high CBD content.


https://gtrseeds.com/products/lifter-organic

Thank you for your interest and have a great day.

**
 
Oy va voi. :oops:
"Survival is the new success..."


Ok I just got back from the property. Sorry, I got way wrapped up in stuff, and forgot to take pictures of the greenhouse. But there is plenty of room.

CHANGE OF PLANS:
I have bad news, worse news, and good news. I am putting everything on the table. I have lots of wants, but my real NEED is to have medicine to put into the cob.
The bad news is that I THOUGHT I had the weather patterns for this valley figured out (meaning I thought it was the simple inverse of the USA), but it is not.
Rather, it is a 100% TROPICAL weather pattern, and it does what it wants.
SUMMER is September through February.
WINTER is March through August.
That means we are JUST NOW entering summer (which I suspected), so the contractor said that NOW is the month when cannabis starts to flower on its own here in the valley.
It was so humid this morning when the dew was burning off that I was sweating standing still!
And it will be even MORE humid (and COLD) come March...

So, the bad news is, we have only FOUR months of summer left, and then we will go back into winter (which is colder, and even more humid). So then I will NOT be flowering in summer, but the start of WINTER!
So all of my strains will have to be SUPER mold resistant to make it in winter, and most of them are NOT.
No way will "medium" mold resistance cut it here in winter...
So, HAD I started seeds like 4-5 months ago, I would be sitting pretty right now. But I did not. So I am basically completely 100% all messed up.

The only thing is that I have some Seedsman Cookies and Cream 1:1, which is supposed to be very mold resistant, and I can put it right in front of fans.
("Cookies and Cream" sounds pretty bland to me, but if it is mold resistant, then I just need to be happy to have medicine.)

PLOT COMPLICATION:

The contractor ALSO said that he has a friend in the valley with strains that are already 100% adapted to the valley.
He said they grow them inside plastic greenhouses, with NO night lights, and NO fans, and they never mold, no problem, because they are already adapted.
The only catch is that they planted them like 5-6 months ago (at the START of winter) and then they automatically start to flower now.
I knew that there would be a time when tropical sativas automatically start to flower here, but I could never find anyone to tell me when it was--and now I know--they start to flower automatically LAST month (haha, oy va voi...)

I asked him what strain his friend had, whether it was sativa or indica, haze or kush or what, and he said he had no idea. (It is like that here.)
He said his friend calls it "Moños" (meaning "Bows", like with a ribbon).
He said his friend grows 100% organic (we will see) and that he uses garlic spray to keep the bugs off, but that it never molds.
I think he indicated it is a long flowering time (4-5 months), meaning it is a tropical sativa.
He said it gets about 5 feet tall.
The only thing is that it has NO CBD.

However, he likes to breed and experiment.
He strongly recommends growing regulars (WITH seeds), which I am not against, since my lungs are not holding up, so I need to put everything into the cob.
I MISS VAPING!!!! (But I need to save my lungs.)

BREEDING A SEEDED STRAIN?

The contractor is an expert with plants. He likes to experiment.
He suggested I authorize him to buy 5 of his friend's tropical sativa THC canna starts (cheap), so probably 2 or 3 males, and 2-3 females, and then we will TRY to grow them heading into winter (!).
He thinks we can do it.
He also suggests I also bring a LOT of the Dr. Seedsman 30:1 sativa fems (which say they have good mold resistance), and then we set them in front of fans also this first year, until they can acclimate.
He feels confident that they will acclimate, and probably we will get at least something.
And that even if all we get are 1-2 very cold and mold resistant strains, that this will just set us up for a more resistant strain in the future.

And if we hate the results we can buy different mold-resistant seeds next year, and I can plant them in March.
But this way I will end up with a tropical sativa crossed with a CBD sativa, and hopefully some bud to put into the cob (with seeds).

Probably I will also bring all three Pineapple Kush, since Kush is also mold resistant.

Option A: BASICS OF CROSSING?

So, this is maybe the worst idea ever, but how do we do this?
Do I (we) hit the Dr. Seedsman fem pistils with the Moños male pollen, and then grow that seed out?
And then the next year (next growing season) we take a male from that hybrid and cross it back to a Dr. Seedsman 30:1? Or to a Moños?
Probably I will have to do some reading :nomo::reading420magazine::hmmmm:
CBD testing is generally $75 a throw (too much!) but I can typically tell what is CBD, what is THC, and what is a mix.
And then we have to find a Chemotype 2 (balanced)? (Which in practical terms means that we need to take clones of all the fems, and then regrow the ones I like the best?)

These are WAY different plans, but since I have no time, I need to let him do everything--so I need to go with what he already knows.
Maybe this is not the BEST plan, but probably it will work, at least for this year?
And maybe we get some mold-resistant 1:1 that we like?
(And if we hate it, next year we can start over?)

I just started soaking some more Dr. Seedsman 30:1.
I can also plant some Cream and Cheese 1:1 which is mold resistant, but that name sounds bland, and I think this way should be a LOT more interesting, and I will probably learn a lot more.

He and his son were very confident that something good will work out. (Maybe it will not be commercial quality, but when you put it into the cob the flavor and effect is way different anyway.)
My bottom line is that as long as I get CBD (and some THC) to put into the cob I should have what I need.

(EDIT: maybe next year we can hit it with some of that Sour Hawaiian Haze, or something.)
 
CHANGE OF PLANS:
I have bad news, worse news, and good news.
The bad news is that I THOUGHT I had the weather patterns for this valley figured out (meaning I thought it was the simple inverse of the USA), but it is not.
Rather, it is a 100% TROPICAL weather pattern, and it does what it wants.
SUMMER is September through February.
WINTER is March through August.
That means we are JUST NOW entering summer (which I suspected), so the contractor said that NOW is the month when cannabis starts to flower on its own here in the valley.
It was so humid this morning when the dew was burning off that I was sweating standing still!
And it will be even MORE humid (and COLD) come March...
Since you are so close to the equator, it doesn't seem like there would be much difference between summer and winter. What is the elevation of the valley? What are the summer and winter temperatures?

So, the bad news is, we have only FOUR months of summer left, and then we will go back into winter (which is colder, and even more humid). So then I will NOT be flowering in summer, but the start of WINTER!
So all of my strains will have to be SUPER mold resistant to make it in winter, and most of them are NOT.
No way will "medium" mold resistance cut it here in winter...
So, HAD I started seeds like 4-5 months ago, I would be sitting pretty right now. But I did not. So I am basically completely 100% all messed up.

The only thing is that I have some Seedsman Cookies and Cream 1:1, which is supposed to be very mold resistant, and I can put it right in front of fans.
("Cookies and Cream" sounds pretty bland to me, but if it is mold resistant, then I just need to be happy to have medicine.)
It looks like Cookies and Cream is commonly known to have caryophyllene, limonene, and myrcene dominant. As such, and being indica dominant, likely not fungus resistant. Some phenos may have some pinene and terpinolene.

PLOT COMPLICATION:

The contractor ALSO said that he has a friend in the valley with strains that are already 100% adapted to the valley.
He said they grow them inside plastic greenhouses, with NO night lights, and NO fans, and they never mold, no problem, because they are already adapted.
The only catch is that they planted them like 5-6 months ago (at the START of winter) and then they automatically start to flower now.
Interesting. Oct. 21 at Bogota is the day when night length reach 12 hours, and it stays above 12 hours until around Feb. 20. It sounds like the sativa they are growing requires 12 hours of darkness to start flowering.

I knew that there would be a time when tropical sativas automatically start to flower here, but I could never find anyone to tell me when it was--and now I know--they start to flower automatically LAST month (haha, oy va voi...)

I asked him what strain his friend had, whether it was sativa or indica, haze or kush or what, and he said he had no idea. (It is like that here.)
He said his friend calls it "Moños" (meaning "Bows", like with a ribbon).
He said his friend grows 100% organic (we will see) and that he uses garlic spray to keep the bugs off, but that it never molds.
I think he indicated it is a long flowering time (4-5 months), meaning it is a tropical sativa.
He said it gets about 5 feet tall.
The only thing is that it has NO CBD.
Must be a sativa, but 5 ft seems too short for a sativa.

BREEDING A SEEDED STRAIN?

He also suggests I also bring a LOT of the Dr. Seedsman 30:1 sativa fems (which say they have good mold resistance), and then we set them in front of fans also this first year, until they can acclimate.
He feels confident that they will acclimate, and probably we will get at least something.
And that even if all we get are 1-2 very cold and mold resistant strains, that this will just set us up for a more resistant strain in the future.
I grew Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and it was very bud rot resistant, but definitely NOT resistant to powdery mildew. With a different pheno, results may vary.

Regarding "acclimating", that only applies if you are doing selective breeding and choosing the phenos that grow the best in the local environment. Or, if you are planting many Seedsman 30:1 seeds and looking for a pheno that happens to do better in your environment. A pheno either does well or doesn't do well.

And if we hate the results we can buy different mold-resistant seeds next year, and I can plant them in March.
But this way I will end up with a tropical sativa crossed with a CBD sativa, and hopefully some bud to put into the cob (with seeds).
Keep in mind that indicas and sativa/indica hybrids (that lean either sativa or indica), are typically not subject to the 12-hour requirement to start flowering. They will start flowering at your location as soon as they are sexually mature and the plants are big enough to support flowering.

Probably I will also bring all three Pineapple Kush, since Kush is also mold resistant.
It depends a lot of the kush strain and pheno of that strain. The best evidence yet I've seen for fungus resistance in a kush would be Afghan Kush and Northern Lights #5.

Option A: BASICS OF CROSSING?

So, this is maybe the worst idea ever, but how do we do this?
Do I (we) hit the Dr. Seedsman fem pistils with the Moños male pollen, and then grow that seed out?
And then the next year (next growing season) we take a male from that hybrid and cross it back to a Dr. Seedsman 30:1?
CBD testing is generally $75 a throw (too much!) but I can typically tell what is CBD, what is THC, and what is a mix.
And then we have to find a Chemotype 2 (balanced)? (Which in practical terms means that we need to take clones of all the fems, and then regrow the ones I like the best?)
If you were going to all the trouble to breed and create a 1:1 variety (THC:CBD), you might as well start with a verified highly fungus resistant THC strain (indica and/or sativa), and a potent CBD strain that's also highly fungus resistant.

But then... we are back to the same discussion re: growing separate THC and CBD, and then mixing them in the grinder.

These are WAY different plans, but since I have no time, I need to let him do everything--so I need to go with what he already knows.
Maybe this is not the BEST plan, but probably it will work, at least for this year?
If you are not locked-in to the Moños sativa, you have options as to start time by growing indica or sativa/indica hybrids. But you would need to acquire new seed. A bigger concern I think is the temperature in the greenhouse over the coming weeks and months... low temps and high temps.
 
Since you are so close to the equator, it doesn't seem like there would be much difference between summer and winter. What is the elevation of the valley?
Hey @cbdhemp808 . Sorry for any delay. Yesterday went off the chart.
I read but did not have time to respond. I spent a lot of time thinking about what you said.
:thumb:
I think like 2800 meters / 9200 feet. (It took me a few weeks to adjust to the altitude.)
What are the summer and winter temperatures?
Summer highs are like maybe 68-73F. Once I saw maybe 75F. Lows around maybe 55-59F.
Wintertime highs are like maybe 61-65F. Maybe 67F once in a while. Lows around 50F.
It looks like Cookies and Cream is commonly known to have caryophyllene, limonene, and myrcene dominant. As such, and being indica dominant, likely not fungus resistant. Some phenos may have some pinene and terpinolene.
I have a sativa C&C clone and it looks ok for now. (I ordered Clonex for next time.)
Interesting. Oct. 21 at Bogota is the day when night length reach 12 hours, and it stays above 12 hours until around Feb. 20. It sounds like the sativa they are growing requires 12 hours of darkness to start flowering.
I asked myself how it works here. I think we actually cross the equator twice a year here.
(In Panama the "summer" was December through May. The humidity drops, and you get tradewinds. I thought maybe it would be the same here, but not.)
I think it is just warmer here from September thru February (for reasons unknown), so that plants know that that is the time to blossom. Not sure.
I hope I will know. Right now I just have to adjust, do the best I can, and then next year we can try to hit it better.
Must be a sativa, but 5 ft seems too short for a sativa.
Siiii.......
I went back and soaked the rest of those Mango Biche seeds. If I can get even one male and one female, we will be back in business. Then I can leave the best MB male, and get seeded weed for MB, and also the Dr. Biche hybrid seed.
I appreciated what you said a lot about starting with good genetics. I think for this valley, Mango Biche (that is from this valley) is probably the best THC strain. They are supposed to get to 3-4m, so that should be a vigorous pollinator.
Then for CBD, I think Dr. Seedsman 30:1 will work for this year. Then maybe next year we can try the Sour Hawaiian Haze or Lifter or similar.
I grew Seedsman 30:1 CBD, and it was very bud rot resistant, but definitely NOT resistant to powdery mildew. With a different pheno, results may vary.
Great to hear.
I have it, and the time is now, so I guess we will have to try it.
We can try with Shed's canola oil recipe for the PM.
Once we get crossed with MB successfully, there should be no more worries about PM.
Regarding "acclimating", that only applies if you are doing selective breeding and choosing the phenos that grow the best in the local environment.
Meaning, you pop 20 beans, take clones, and take seeds, and then pick the clones and seeds you like best?
And if you want to mix something else into the mix, you just mix it?
Or what should that say to me? (Thanks!)
Or, if you are planting many Seedsman 30:1 seeds and looking for a pheno that happens to do better in your environment. A pheno either does well or doesn't do well.
Ok, got it. Good.
Yes, we will plant the Mango Biche, and Dr. S, and then see which ones we want to keep growing for next year.
Keep in mind that indicas and sativa/indica hybrids (that lean either sativa or indica), are typically not subject to the 12-hour requirement to start flowering. They will start flowering at your location as soon as they are sexually mature and the plants are big enough to support flowering.
Ok. Good to know.
I have two strings of those night lights that start at sunset and run for 6 hours, so we can run those to keep the plants in veg until it is time to flower.
It depends a lot of the kush strain and pheno of that strain. The best evidence yet I've seen for fungus resistance in a kush would be Afghan Kush and Northern Lights #5.
Ok, good to know. I have 2 NL CBD sativas. The clones look ok so far. We will have to see how the girls survive the torture test this "winter".
Basically, whoever survives best, and gives the best medicine, that is who we will select for.
If you were going to all the trouble to breed and create a 1:1 variety (THC:CBD), you might as well start with a verified highly fungus resistant THC strain (indica and/or sativa), and a potent CBD strain that's also highly fungus resistant.
Yes, thank you! I thought about this a lot.
I soaked the rest of the MB regulars, and hope to get at least one male, and one female.
I soaked more Dr. S 30:1, and hopefully one of them will survive the torture-test winter, and give good seeds.
Then we can shift from there.
At some point I would also like to get some Kush in there, so I am not sure how we will do that.
I think to maintain my clone & seed room, since a couple of lights does not cost that much (but other than that, we are slashing costs.)
But then... we are back to the same discussion re: growing separate THC and CBD, and then mixing them in the grinder.
Right.
There are new challenges.
I could blather on but right now time is short.
Eventually I want to get something resembling Pineapple Kush CBD into the lineup, because I have lots of spinal pains, and Kush makes me want to stretch (which is good for my health and healthy being).
If you are not locked-in to the Moños sativa, you have options as to start time by growing indica or sativa/indica hybrids. But you would need to acquire new seed. A bigger concern I think is the temperature in the greenhouse over the coming weeks and months... low temps and high temps.
Yes, I think MB and Dr.S are fairly good candidates for this year, and I have them (and we have no money).
If we find better seed for next year and we have money we can try that, although pest resistance is really my biggest concern (and MB is supposed to be very resistant).
Still, a wintertime grow will be the OPPOSITE of the adaptations for the valley, so it truly should be a "torture test".
I think if we go into it with a MB male, and then we can have females of Dr.S (primarily), and then also the Northern Light CBD sativa, Moños, and the Pineapple Kush (and maybe the C&C sativa), it should at least be an interesting learning experience!
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Hahaha, 4/5ths of my clones and seeds are NOT resistant enough for winter!
It is going to be a bloodbath in my clone room while I cut over hard to MB, DrS, and leave the Pineapple Kush, and the NL and C&C sativa clones.
I need to get those Mb put in soil!
 
OK, the bloodbath is over, except for the cleanup. The good news is that there are two of the northern light CBD sativa clones, and one cookies and cream CBD sativa clone, and they both look good so far.
The rest are Dr. seedsman clones. Most of them look strong, one is marginal.

IMG_5301.jpeg


The tray in the front left is Dr. S, (plus 2 overflow cups from the new MB cups. The Doctor Seedsman should have a decent germination rate, but I am going to need a lot of them to match up with the MB.

The two trays on the front right are MB regular seeds. They're old, the last 6 cups I planted only one or maybe two came up ( ha ha, I had a second seedling come up, and I thought I only planted one seed! Thankfully I was able to separate them into 2 cups ).
I figured with that many MB cups hopefully we can get at least one male and one female to come up and go in the greenhouse.

It is all going to be one big seeded mess this time. It's also going to be the torture test. But whatever lives through this grow should do OK under normal circumstances. (or at least, that is the theory.)
 
I think like 2800 meters / 9200 feet. (It took me a few weeks to adjust to the altitude.)

Summer highs are like maybe 68-73F. Once I saw maybe 75F. Lows around maybe 55-59F.
Wintertime highs are like maybe 61-65F. Maybe 67F once in a while. Lows around 50F.
OMG! That's some extreme elevation! This really changes the focus... growing cannabis at a very high elevation, in a greenhouse.

Soooo... yes, you'd need a strain that's very adapted to growing there, or at least strains that come from a similar mountain climate. Perhaps landraces from Northern India mountains at a similar latitude. Or mountain areas in Southeast Asia.

The greenhouse is going to need to provide warmth, especially in the winter.

So yes, the Mango Biche, and if the seeds are not germinating, maybe get some fresher seed. Beyond Mango Biche, I don't know. Trying other strains/phenos you already have may not pan out, just because of the extreme environment.

RE: Acclimating
Meaning, you pop 20 beans, take clones, and take seeds, and then pick the clones and seeds you like best?
And if you want to mix something else into the mix, you just mix it?
Or what should that say to me? (Thanks!)
Just grow the seed and pick the most robust plants... these are your phenos. Keep the developing plants in veg using night interruption lighting. Take cuttings and make clones of the best plants (phenos). Shoot for 2 or 3 clones of each. Label the clones to associate them with the moms. Then flower the clone moms and see how they do, in terms of bud rot and leaf mold. (Of course, plants in veg need to be in a separate space than the moms that are flowering.) Pine and skunk odor are good indicators of the presence of anti-fungal pine terpenes. If you find particularly good fungus/mold resistance in a particular pheno, you've now got the clone(s) of that pheno, and you can grow it indefinitely (just keep cloning the clones).

If I were in your position, I would focus more on finding the genetics from various sources that will work well (seed and clones) in that environment, rather than trying to develop new strains through breeding. But yes, you could for example grow Mango Biche and cross it with Dr. Seedsman CBD, to produce F1 hybrid seed, which you could then grow out and see what you get. Some phenos would be more like MB, some would be more like DS, and some would be a blend. It's possible you could find a 1:1 pheno, THC/CBD. Or, it's possible you could arrive at a MB with a decent amount of CBD in it, but perhaps not 1:1. Etc. Here's the thing, though... whatever you do in this regard, the main purpose I think is to develop something that produces CBD and grows well in that environment. Again, I think it would be better to acquire some seed of a strain that's already from a similar environment, grow the seed, and then hunt for the best phenos that grow well in your environment. I mean, it makes sense to me to start that way, and then if for some reason that approach fails, THEN you could consider breeding.

Ok, good to know. I have 2 NL CBD sativas. The clones look ok so far. We will have to see how the girls survive the torture test this "winter".
Basically, whoever survives best, and gives the best medicine, that is who we will select for.
So, not only are you looking for phenos that can grow in that extreme mountain environment, you are also looking for high bud rot resistance, and high pest resistance. Any given Northern Lights pheno, for example, isn't necessarily going to have high bud rot resistance. If you focused on NL5, which is not a CBD plant, then you'd probably have a good shot at the resistance.

Yes, thank you! I thought about this a lot.
I soaked the rest of the MB regulars, and hope to get at least one male, and one female.
I soaked more Dr. S 30:1, and hopefully one of them will survive the torture-test winter, and give good seeds.
Then we can shift from there.
It's somewhat of a Catch22... you want genetics that work well in that extreme environment, but trying to develop genetics in that extreme environment would I think be quite challenging. Maybe think more in terms of obtaining seed from similar environments, and pheno hunting, rather than developing new seed. Well, you can at least first see what happens with growing the MB and DS.
 
OMG! That's some extreme elevation! This really changes the focus... growing cannabis at a very high elevation, in a greenhouse.
Siiiii...........
Soooo... yes, you'd need a strain that's very adapted to growing there, or at least strains that come from a similar mountain climate.
Siiiii........
Perhaps landraces from Northern India mountains at a similar latitude. Or mountain areas in Southeast Asia.
Yes, good idea.
The greenhouse is going to need to provide warmth, especially in the winter.
Yes, the contractor told me that winter is from March through August.
He said summer is from September through February.
I asked him about night lighting, and he did not know what I was talking about. I had to explain the bit about 12 hours of sleep causing the plants to make the flowering hormone, and how things are in the northern hemisphere (non-equatorial light patterns).
I asked him about fans, and he just smiled, and said no one uses fans in greenhouses here. :oops:
His son said that when it gets too hot they will take the plastic away, but they never bother with mesh, so I think that Moños is also probably also at least fairly pest resistant.

The indigenous live close to the land here. They like to do stuff in harmony with nature (similar to Chinese and Japanese). I knew there would be a rhythm that they would have practiced before there was plastic for greenhouse tents, I just did not know when it was.
Now I know I should have planted seeds four or five months ago, so that they can flower now! Lol! 😂.
But it is good to be learning what the native rhythm is. They plant at the start of winter (around March or April) and veg until summer starts in about September. I think if we can get cut over to that rhythm long term it will be great.

The contractor seemed to think that the Dr. S. CBDs would probably need a season or two to adapt to the annual rhythm (because they are not adapted yet).
He seemed to think that the seeds would be adapted to the annual rhythm of the valley in a season or two, and it makes sense (especially if we grow it from seed in the cold, and then it gets hot.)
I heard similar things about animals. They say that the natural immunity is better if they are born on the ground where they will live, because they will be "adapted".

So I am just guessing that this year we will need night lights for sure, because we are growing AGAINST the natural rhythm. But then next year we can grow WITH the natural rhythm, and probably we will not put the night lights unless the girls start to flower prematurely.
(I am happy if they learn to flower for four months, if it will make it stronger.)

So yes, the Mango Biche, and if the seeds are not germinating, maybe get some fresher seed.
👍
I actually had a second MB come up, so that is 33% (which is better than I thought).
I just planted 23 more seeds, and all we really need is one male and one female.
I think MB is going to be the strong tall vigorous resistant THC strain I need to pair with the CBD plants.
I think MB will be better than Moños, just because it is bigger (plus it has a good reputation. MB is very popular).

Beyond Mango Biche, I don't know. Trying other strains/phenos you already have may not pan out, just because of the extreme environment.
It hurt to tear out all of those little clones, and the seedlings from the seeds--but this is going to be a torture test.
We will be forcing the girls NOT to flower, which is AGAINST the natural rhythm of the valley.
It will be worth it, to see which ones have the best natural pest defenses, and which ones grow the most healthy under extreme conditions.
If they survive, and we like it, then we can start the next batch in March or something, and grow with the natural rhythm of the valley.

RE: Acclimating

Just grow the seed and pick the most robust plants... these are your phenos.

:thumb:
Keep the developing plants in veg using night interruption lighting.
Yes, this first year we will.
:thumb:
But then after the first year, we will only add night lighting if they start to flower prematurely.
And eventually we expect them NOT to need night lighting (because the indigenous do not need it).
Take cuttings and make clones of the best plants (phenos). Shoot for 2 or 3 clones of each. Label the clones to associate them with the moms. Then flower the clone moms and see how they do, in terms of bud rot and leaf mold. (Of course, plants in veg need to be in a separate space than the moms that are flowering.)
:thumb:
I will talk with them about a separate veg tent.
If all else fails I can tend clones here, but it is better if they can handle the whole thing.

Pine and skunk odor are good indicators of the presence of anti-fungal pine terpenes. If you find particularly good fungus/mold resistance in a particular pheno, you've now got the clone(s) of that pheno, and you can grow it indefinitely (just keep cloning the clones).
:thumb:
If I were in your position, I would focus more on finding the genetics from various sources that will work well (seed and clones) in that environment, rather than trying to develop new strains through breeding.
Right.
And since everyone grows open-pollination here, it would probably be futile to try to grow sinsemilla, because of the bees and bugs.
The cob should do fine with seeds.
But yes, you could for example grow Mango Biche and cross it with Dr. Seedsman CBD, to produce F1 hybrid seed, which you could then grow out and see what you get.
Well, frankly, it sounds like a lot of work! :oops:
I asked them if they knew anyone with CBD plants, and they said they would ask around, but I am not holding my breath.
Probably 99-100% of the weed here is THC/recreational weed, and I am not sure if we will meet the other 1% any time soon.
If people go seeded here, then I think what I really want is something like a Chemotype 2 with pest and mold resistant genetics (and ideally Pineapple Kush phenos), that is already adapted to the valley.
But, like you say, the selection of Chemotype 2 is really limited, so I will have to look.

If I can find a Pineapple Kush CBD already adapted to the valley, I could spring for it.
And maybe we will find someone with CBD already adapted to here.
If the packages ever get here, I have Juanita LaLagrimosa (Weeping Jane, sativa) and Juanita LaLagrimosa CBD (hybrid) on the way. And diesel CBD hybrids. Probably those will be fine if we plant them in the winter, and grow them in the summer.
Some phenos would be more like MB, some would be more like DS, and some would be a blend. It's possible you could find a 1:1 pheno, THC/CBD. Or, it's possible you could arrive at a MB with a decent amount of CBD in it, but perhaps not 1:1. Etc.
Yes, it sounds like a process.
Here's the thing, though... whatever you do in this regard, the main purpose I think is to develop something that produces CBD and grows well in that environment.
🙏
Yes, that would check my main block.
If I can get CBD and it grows reliably, I can deal with the rest.
Pineapple Kush would be VERY nice to have, but CBD and reliable would be the big two.
Again, I think it would be better to acquire some seed of a strain that's already from a similar environment, grow the seed, and then hunt for the best phenos that grow well in your environment. I mean, it makes sense to me to start that way, and then if for some reason that approach fails, THEN you could consider breeding.
Yes, that was my thought with the Pineapple Kush from the Colombian breeder, was a) we are broke, and that was $15 (rather than $50 with shipping and insurance and a two month wait).
I can check the Colombian breeding houses again (there are some, typically small-time) for Pineapple Kush CBD mixed with Mango Biche, but I am not holding my breath.
So, not only are you looking for phenos that can grow in that extreme mountain environment, you are also looking for high bud rot resistance, and high pest resistance.
🙏
It would be devoutly to be wished.
Any given Northern Lights pheno, for example, isn't necessarily going to have high bud rot resistance. If you focused on NL5, which is not a CBD plant, then you'd probably have a good shot at the resistance.
Well, I did have two NL CBD Autos mold on me indoors under LEDs and fans maybe two grows ago.
As we discussed in past posts, it could have been the CBD plant tha wrecked the resistance, or the auto plant, not sure.
With NL CBD photo sativa, I only have to worry about the CBD-ancestor that could hypothetically lower bud rot resistance, but still it could have.
This is from seedfinder.eu:

Pyramid Seeds Northern Lights CBD info:
Type: Feminized seeds
Genetics: Northern Lights x CBD Rich
Indica-dominant
Indoor flowering: 55 days
Harvest outdoors: early September
Indoor yield: 500g per m2
Outdoor yield: 500-1000g per plant
THC: 10%
CBD: 9%
THC/CBD ratio: 1:1

Northern Lights CBD Lineage / Genealogy​


I have to see if the "Unknown CBD strain" maintained the mold resistance, or no.
I thought I would see if they survive the grow room indoors under LED (because if they do not survive that, then there is no way they will survive the greenhouse).
And then whatever I take to the greenhouse, we just have to see what lives, and what dies.

It's somewhat of a Catch22... you want genetics that work well in that extreme environment, but trying to develop genetics in that extreme environment would I think be quite challenging.
Yes, I think it sounds like a multi-year project, and a lot of work and time.
I think it sounds very interesting! But time is a cruncher, and I think it would be better to find some super-top-shelf genetics like what you are recommending, that already have the CBD.
GTR said that they would ship to Colombia, and that Lifter and Sour Hawaiian Haze are good big CBD girls, so maybe if the budget eases anywhere in between now and March, we can invest in some CBD rich seed.
But I also think that if you can adapt European seed it should slowly adapt to the tropics, and it will learn to flower more like 4-6 months, so it will get stronger also.
So I am keen to get some better genetics, but for an emergency first round, I think I could do a LOT worse than MB and Dr. S. Both of them are supposed to be mold and pest resistant, and both are sativas, so if they can survive this kind of a torture test, it would be both reliable, and CBD.
And then in future grows we can let them follow the natural rhythm.
And unless I am mistaken, I would have to cross the seed back with either MB or with Dr. S., which takes ANOTHER year to walk out...
And then you have to track a zillion phenos...
And you STILL do not have Pineapple or Kush in the mix....

So yes, I think I can do a seed hunt when the money comes back.
I do enjoy changing the strain once in a while--and this would be the opposite of that.

Maybe think more in terms of obtaining seed from similar environments, and pheno hunting, rather than developing new seed. Well, you can at least first see what happens with growing the MB and DS.
:thumb:
I think this is probably the plants I should be growing right now.
In future years it would be nice to have CBD Pineapple Kush (or similar) that is resistant, but I think that for right now, this is the seeds and the budget we have, and this sounds like a workable plan. (And interesting.)
Maybe someone will have a CBD Pineapple Kush that is pest and mold resistant, that is adapted to the valley?
Or next year maybe we can bring in some better genetics? We will see.
In the meantime, this sounds interesting, and it sounds like something I will learn from.

I am in way over my head with this whole thing, so I just need to take it one step at a time right now.
I appreciate the help very much.
 
Now I know I should have planted seeds four or five months ago, so that they can flower now! Lol! 😂.
But it is good to be learning what the native rhythm is. They plant at the start of winter (around March or April) and veg until summer starts in about September. I think if we can get cut over to that rhythm long term it will be great.
Again, I was saying that it looks like the MB requires 12 hours of dark period in order to start flowering. The rhythm is simply to start your sativa plants some months before the start of the 12 hours dark period (which then continues for months). In this situation, there is no benefit from night interruption lighting, which is done specifically to inhibit flowering when the night length is long.

The contractor seemed to think that the Dr. S. CBDs would probably need a season or two to adapt to the annual rhythm (because they are not adapted yet).
He seemed to think that the seeds would be adapted to the annual rhythm of the valley in a season or two, and it makes sense (especially if we grow it from seed in the cold, and then it gets hot.)
This only makes sense if you are growing Dr. S. regular seeds, not feminized. And then letting the plants self-pollinate, to produce another generation of seed. Of course that is problematic, because unless it's done by putting the females in their own isolation chambers, then they will get pollinated by whatever pollen is floating around in the air.

In other words, generations of self-pollinated Dr. S, allowed to grow at that location, with the grower selecting for the best plants, would eventually produce phenos that were more adapted to the location.

So I am just guessing that this year we will need night lights for sure, because we are growing AGAINST the natural rhythm. But then next year we can grow WITH the natural rhythm, and probably we will not put the night lights unless the girls start to flower prematurely.
(I am happy if they learn to flower for four months, if it will make it stronger.)
It's not going to work too well for MB sativa. I think you missed the boat on that one. It needs 12 hours darkness to initiate the flowering, so if you planted them now, by the time they are getting big enough to flower, the 12 hour darkness time-of-year may be closing. I don't know... I recall that I said the period lasted into February. You'd need to check the timing on that. Perhaps you could get a harvest, I don't know.

I actually had a second MB come up, so that is 33% (which is better than I thought).
I just planted 23 more seeds, and all we really need is one male and one female.
You can at least grow them and clone them. It may even be possible to clone the males—I had that experience with a tropical sativa, i.e. the males were actually photosensitive, just like the females, so you could keep them from flowering using night interruption lighting. (Most male cannabis plants flower automatically, just like an autoflowering female.)

But then after the first year, we will only add night lighting if they start to flower prematurely.
And eventually we expect them NOT to need night lighting (because the indigenous do not need it).
I'm not sure what you are referring to here. If you mean the MB, then it should be started (from seed) when the locals start it, and then it will start to flower around this time of year. If you mean some other CBD plant, Dr. S. or whatever, those plants will flower with something like 10 or 10.5 hours of darkness, so will flower year round in your location, so yes, you can use night interruption lighting to control when they flower. Dr. S. isn't going to magically change in this regard, just because you are growing it at your location.

In general, with most types of cannabis that you are growing outdoors (or in a greenhouse) under the sun, there is a time of the year you can plant where the natural photoperiod cycle will cause the plants to flower at the right time. That planting time is late spring or early summer, and the plants flower and complete their life cycle in the fall.

If however you are growing close to the equator, plants that only require 10 or 10.5 hours to initiate flowering (which is most cannabis plants), may flower too soon, resulting in small plants and small yields. In order to allow the plants to get bigger, you can use night interruption lighting.

And since everyone grows open-pollination here, it would probably be futile to try to grow sinsemilla, because of the bees and bugs.
The cob should do fine with seeds.
My general thought is, if one is growing for personal medicine, then it's best to have a lot of control over the grow, in order to grow the medicine that you need. Growing outdoors in a big greenhouse at 9,000+ ft elevation... seems more like a large-ish grow to produce a great deal of THC sativa buds for profit.

Well, frankly, it sounds like a lot of work! :oops:
I asked them if they knew anyone with CBD plants, and they said they would ask around, but I am not holding my breath.
Probably 99-100% of the weed here is THC/recreational weed, and I am not sure if we will meet the other 1% any time soon.
If people go seeded here, then I think what I really want is something like a Chemotype 2 with pest and mold resistant genetics (and ideally Pineapple Kush phenos), that is already adapted to the valley.
But, like you say, the selection of Chemotype 2 is really limited, so I will have to look.
Again, GTR's Sour Hawaiian Haze looks like a good bet for a sativa CBD type III, with high bud rot resistance. It should produce right around 15% CBD. I bet this would work at your mountain location, but may need night interruption lighting to get big plants.

1730002125534.png

photo: Fern Valley Farms

If I can find a Pineapple Kush CBD already adapted to the valley, I could spring for it.
And maybe we will find someone with CBD already adapted to here.
If the packages ever get here, I have Juanita LaLagrimosa (Weeping Jane, sativa) and Juanita LaLagrimosa CBD (hybrid) on the way. And diesel CBD hybrids. Probably those will be fine if we plant them in the winter, and grow them in the summer.
It's very specific to find high bud rot resistance in a type III CBD plant. The best examples I've seen are from Oregon CBD/GTR seeds, and you are getting 15% or more CBD. So, to arrive at something like that which is also adapted to a equatorial greenhouse grow at 9,000+ elevation (climate wise), and also adapted to flower naturally with a 12-hour dark period... well, you would pretty much need to attempt to breed such a plant. (The 12-hour requirement is actually not to your advantage.)

If you want a kush... again, I would say just wait and acquire Northern Lights #5. Because of all the factors, I wouldn't try to combine the CBD requirement with the desire for a kush, in one plant.

Well, I did have two NL CBD Autos mold on me indoors under LEDs and fans maybe two grows ago.
As we discussed in past posts, it could have been the CBD plant tha wrecked the resistance, or the auto plant, not sure.
With NL CBD photo sativa, I only have to worry about the CBD-ancestor that could hypothetically lower bud rot resistance, but still it could have.
Hmm, how can I describe this... When you are looking for bud rot resistance**, you are not only looking for a strain that has phenos that are known to be bud rot resistant (because of their terpenes profiles)—you are looking for the phenos themselves. I think Northern Lights has (at least) 5 known phenos. The one that I was specifically able to determine as having the right anti-fungal terpenes, meaning terpinolene and the other pine terpenes, is Northern Lights #5, meaning the #5 pheno of Northern Lights. Specifically. And I was able to find a good source for the seed.

(** I keep saying "bud rot resistance", because this is the most devastating fungus/mold organism to the grow, because it can wipe out your whole harvest, and it's quite common. Leaf mold is annoying and impacts the plant's photosynthesis, but it usually doesn't wipe out your harvest. A pathogenic fungus impacting the root zone can kill a plant, but this is a lot more rare than bud rot.)

Yes, I think it sounds like a multi-year project, and a lot of work and time.
I think it sounds very interesting! But time is a cruncher, and I think it would be better to find some super-top-shelf genetics like what you are recommending, that already have the CBD.
GTR said that they would ship to Colombia, and that Lifter and Sour Hawaiian Haze are good big CBD girls, so maybe if the budget eases anywhere in between now and March, we can invest in some CBD rich seed.
👍
 
Hey @cbdhemp808 , sorry for any delay. It is over the top busy here.

Again, I was saying that it looks like the MB requires 12 hours of dark period in order to start flowering. The rhythm is simply to start your sativa plants some months before the start of the 12 hours dark period (which then continues for months). In this situation, there is no benefit from night interruption lighting, which is done specifically to inhibit flowering when the night length is long.
Well, I appreciate your patience with me on this issue, as this is all new to me!
We are only 1 degree off the equator here, and actually we have a very distinct lighting and weather pattern. It is different than anything else I have experienced. To my gringo mind, the combinations are not logical--and yet that is what they are! :oops:

I thought the weather here would be similar to the weather in Panama (which is 8 degrees off the equator, but at near-sea-level). Nope!!
The weather and lighting patterns are VERY different--so I have to jump through hoops this time!

Here is the average pattern of sunrise and sunset.
I am still trying to wrap my mind around the fact that because we are only 1 degree off of the equator, there seem to be TWO "summers" and "winters"??? Cuz we cross to the north and then back again ???
(I am not used to seeing wavy lines when I look at the hours of daylight month by month!)

Sunrise sunset.jpg


Sunrise and sunset never really change much.
The day here is 9 minutes longer at the summer solstice (June 20) than at the winter solstice (December 3).
However, the contractor said it plainly, that "summer" flowering here is September-October-November-December-January-February. (All the "ber's" plus two more, haha.)
Then the rains return in March.

So, please correct me if this is wrong, but my thinking was that if changes in the hours of daylight is still a trigger for flowering (which I think so), then my thought was that cutting the night lights would be a dramatic shift for them, and that that could cause them to flower. Because isn't that how cannabis adapts to other lighting and weather conditions, is by taking it's best guess at when to flower?
If not, then I am really messing up by adding night-shortening-lights, because it will throw their tropical training and predisposition off-kilter, and out of pattern, and it might take it a little while to adapt back!
But eventually we want to get on a regular schedule, and maybe do one big grow a year.
It looks like I would ideally plant in March (when the rains return), and then veg until September (fall equinox), when it will trip.

I think I see what you are saying. The plants start their flowering with the fall equinox, because that is when there is more darkness, and the flowering keys on fluctuations in darkness.

Daylight.jpg



There are a few charts that show when the warm and cold times are, if you can connect the pictures spatially.
Basically right now it is getting warmer, but also muggier, because there is more rain in "summer" (monsoon?).
When it is cold it is drier. When it is hot it is muggier. I think it is this way on the Atlantic Andean side.

climate 1.jpg


What you call "summer" in North America is actually cooler and drier here. The locals prefer that.

climate 2.jpg


And this is a "comfort index" or something but it shows patterns.

climate 3.jpg



My questions:
I understand that the plants base their flowering on the fall equinox or whatever, unless you trick them.
Only, what if you put the plants under 18 hours of light (12 hrs of daylight plus 6 additional hours of solar-night-lights) for veg,, and then you take away the 6 hours of night light, basically flipping to 12/12? Won't the sudden change make her flower?
In other words, wouldn't a dramatic shift like that trigger flowering?
Or are you perhaps suggesting that I basically need autos for this grow?
Maybe this is wrong, but I was thinking that if you flip from 18/6 to 12/12 inside, the plant flips, because of the sudden change--and please correct me if this is wrong, but don't some guys know this, and they do 13/11 or something? Because I thought I read that somewhere in some threads, where guys push the 12/12 limit some.

This only makes sense if you are growing Dr. S. regular seeds, not feminized. And then letting the plants self-pollinate, to produce another generation of seed. Of course that is problematic, because unless it's done by putting the females in their own isolation chambers, then they will get pollinated by whatever pollen is floating around in the air.
Yeah, sorry if I have not made that clear.
I am still working these things out in real time.
I have been learning how to clone, but most of those clones are not what I need.
Thankfully, I had one C&C, two NL CBD, and I am not sure how many DS30 clones made it, but most of the seeds came up good, so I think I have about 10 small female sativa CBD plants (if they flip outdoors once you take away the night-shortening lights).

In other words, generations of self-pollinated Dr. S, allowed to grow at that location, with the grower selecting for the best plants, would eventually produce phenos that were more adapted to the location.
Yeah, that is kind of the idea.

It's not going to work too well for MB sativa. I think you missed the boat on that one. It needs 12 hours darkness to initiate the flowering, so if you planted them now, by the time they are getting big enough to flower, the 12 hour darkness time-of-year may be closing. I don't know... I recall that I said the period lasted into February. You'd need to check the timing on that. Perhaps you could get a harvest, I don't know.
Yeah, thanks! I appreciate the heads up on that one. It helped me to connect some needed dots.

Good questions. I do not know. I wrote my assistant to ask the contractor if cannabis plants can be perennial in this valley, in a greenhouse. I was told by a natural doctor that they are perennial down in the lower Atlantic side. I guess they just strip the buds, and harvest year by year. I am not sure how many years you get, but that would work.

Big sigh. If I absolutely need to I can search for CBD XXL autos.
I guess it would depend if my "outdoor party-light flipping" will flip the girls, or not.
Wow there are a lot of variables in play! :D

You can at least grow them and clone them. It may even be possible to clone the males—I had that experience with a tropical sativa, i.e. the males were actually photosensitive, just like the females, so you could keep them from flowering using night interruption lighting. (Most male cannabis plants flower automatically, just like an autoflowering female.)
Cool.
Good to know.

I'm not sure what you are referring to here. If you mean the MB, then it should be started (from seed) when the locals start it, and then it will start to flower around this time of year.
Right. That is what I just found out, is that the locals all started flowering in September (around the fall equinox, naturally). Because at the end of the day she is still photo-dependent, right?
So ... drum roll please ... the big question is, will my solar-party-light-trick work?
I watched a documentary one time of how they grow it in the Cauca. They put a low-watt LED up for a few hours to keep it in veg, and then they take it away for flowering. But probably they are ALSO times with the solar cycle?
So we have to see if the night-party-light trick works...
:tommy:

If you mean some other CBD plant, Dr. S. or whatever, those plants will flower with something like 10 or 10.5 hours of darkness, so will flower year round in your location, so yes, you can use night interruption lighting to control when they flower. Dr. S. isn't going to magically change in this regard, just because you are growing it at your location.
Oh, ok! Got it!
:thumb:
In general, with most types of cannabis that you are growing outdoors (or in a greenhouse) under the sun, there is a time of the year you can plant where the natural photoperiod cycle will cause the plants to flower at the right time. That planting time is late spring or early summer, and the plants flower and complete their life cycle in the fall.
Yeah!
I had a brain cramp here! I was trying to figure out when the "real summer" was, but the cannabis trips with the fall equinox, and then the rest is just details.
Thanks for helping me to clarify that!
:thumb:
If however you are growing close to the equator, plants that only require 10 or 10.5 hours to initiate flowering (which is most cannabis plants), may flower too soon, resulting in small plants and small yields. In order to allow the plants to get bigger, you can use night interruption lighting.
:thumb:

My general thought is, if one is growing for personal medicine, then it's best to have a lot of control over the grow, in order to grow the medicine that you need. Growing outdoors in a big greenhouse at 9,000+ ft elevation... seems more like a large-ish grow to produce a great deal of THC sativa buds for profit.
Yeah, we cannot sell cannabis here. Basically to get a license for that, you have to pay about a $1 million bribe :oops:
Long story but because of some deal we had to sit through a corrupt official offering us a "real estate deal" where the property was authorized to grow cannabis, and basically they nailed some unwary gringos. Here is this guy with a simple 1 hectare (2.5 acre) farm, not much infrastructure, and it costs $1,000,000 USD plus!
The sharks nailed the poor guy.
He was probably wanting to grow cannabis cheap in Colombia and do good, and the government agents got it and hung him out to dry. And now he cannot get rid of the property, and it is not really that usable, because the government is like that here. So it is cheaper to grow in Canada under LEDs!

Anyway, they made it legal to have 20 plants in flower per household. But the reality is that no one cares how many plants, so long as it is just for you, and you do not sell it.
(If you sell it without paying the bribe, they will hang you out to dry, because that is how they get their bribe money.)
Again, GTR's Sour Hawaiian Haze looks like a good bet for a sativa CBD type III, with high bud rot resistance. It should produce right around 15% CBD. I bet this would work at your mountain location, but may need night interruption lighting to get big plants.

Ok! Night interruption we can do, but ultimately it should adapt.
1730002125534.png

photo: Fern Valley Farms


It's very specific to find high bud rot resistance in a type III CBD plant. The best examples I've seen are from Oregon CBD/GTR seeds, and you are getting 15% or more CBD. So, to arrive at something like that which is also adapted to a equatorial greenhouse grow at 9,000+ elevation (climate wise), and also adapted to flower naturally with a 12-hour dark period... well, you would pretty much need to attempt to breed such a plant. (The 12-hour requirement is actually not to your advantage.)
Yeah, basically what you said about the phenos that grow best for you, those are your phenos.
Basically we are just going to plant it and see what grows.
I wrote to ask to cancel the Moños for now, and maybe we can get some starts in March or something, so we can get everything back in the natural rhythm, so we do not have to buy night lighting long term.
The MB seeds will probably be very slow in coming up, because they are old. I will just keep misting them.

If you want a kush... again, I would say just wait and acquire Northern Lights #5. Because of all the factors, I wouldn't try to combine the CBD requirement with the desire for a kush, in one plant.
Yeah, thank you for this!
:thanks:
I think it finally clicked what you were saying about NL.
I took out some of my (little remaining) NL CBD (it was good! That is why there is so little left...), and it really felt good! I also ended up involuntarily stretching! So I was very happy about that.
:slide:
Happy day that I have two phenos of that sativa in the clone room!
I also have more seeds in the fridge.
Only, I am not sure if or how the "non-descript CBD strain" will impact mold resistance. (Again, NL CBD Auto had mold indoors under LED.) This is NL CBD on seedfinder.eu.

NLCBD strain.jpg


Hmm, how can I describe this... When you are looking for bud rot resistance**, you are not only looking for a strain that has phenos that are known to be bud rot resistant (because of their terpenes profiles)—you are looking for the phenos themselves. I think Northern Lights has (at least) 5 known phenos. The one that I was specifically able to determine as having the right anti-fungal terpenes, meaning terpinolene and the other pine terpenes, is Northern Lights #5, meaning the #5 pheno of Northern Lights. Specifically. And I was able to find a good source for the seed.
Ok, thank you!
My problem is that I suspect NL CBD may not be nearly as bud rot resistant as NL #5, because of the "unknown CBD rich strain".

(** I keep saying "bud rot resistance", because this is the most devastating fungus/mold organism to the grow, because it can wipe out your whole harvest, and it's quite common.
Yes.

Leaf mold is annoying and impacts the plant's photosynthesis, but it usually doesn't wipe out your harvest.
Yes.
A pathogenic fungus impacting the root zone can kill a plant, but this is a lot more rare than bud rot.)
Yes.
:thumb:
I am optimistic that taking away the night lights will provide a big enough of a drop, provided it is enough light to keep the plant "awake".
If the plant goes from sleeping 6 hours to sleeping 12 hours, I think that should trigger her outdoors, just like indoors.
Or at least, that is my theory...
:tommy:
 
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