Homer's Legal 4-Plant Max Perpetual Minimalist Garden In Ontario

Pennywise said:
Lol yep it's a valuable lesson.
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Only thing I plan on changing is to increase my light intensity because I am only putting 200W through my MegaLight and it takes 600W. My little blurple I replaced it with was actually 260W so I am pretty sure the plants want more light but I will do it slowly over grows. I am going to keep it at 200W till my OG is done.
 
Only other change I am looking for is better genetics... :p
 
Pennywise said:
That will help big time.
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Hmmmm... I am a little leary of burning leaves from the past with burples so I have my MegaLight set at a pretty low wattage and to save energy but I am reconsidering since you think it will help big time. But then again I was recently warned not go experimenting trying to get it "better" by a real expert. ;)
 
You can use a light meter app on your smart phone to get a reasonable approximation of the PAR value.
PAR ≈ Lux/67

So in veg 23,450 - 26,800 Lux, and in flower 67,000 Lux, at the canopy.

Also, beware of plants that fall outside these general rules. My Sapphire Scout got severe light burn in a matter of days when the other plants in the tent shading it were harvested.
 
Pennywise said:
Lol well you only need 350-400 ppfd in veg but need around 1000 ppfd in flower.
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Old Salt said:
You can use a light meter app on your smart phone to get a reasonable approximation of the PAR value.
PAR ≈ Lux/67

So in veg 23,450 - 26,800 Lux, and in flower 67,000 Lux, at the canopy.

Also, beware of plants that fall outside these general rules. My Sapphire Scout got severe light burn in a matter of days when the other plants in the tent shading it were harvested.
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You guys are full of info. I have read a bit and lux is all light I think and par is just the spectrum that the plant uses I think? So I was not sure if a photographic light meter would help? I might as well give it a try if you think they can be converted.
 
Old Salt said:
You can use a light meter app on your smart phone to get a reasonable approximation of the PAR value.
PAR ≈ Lux/67

So in veg 23,450 - 26,800 Lux, and in flower 67,000 Lux, at the canopy.

Also, beware of plants that fall outside these general rules. My Sapphire Scout got severe light burn in a matter of days when the other plants in the tent shading it were harvested.
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If you have a Samsung phone you can also go to the keypad and type *#0*# and then hit sensor. Lux will be available under "Lights Sensor"
 
Lux measures candle power, par = Photosynthetic Active Radiation. Par is the light From 400-700 nm that plants can actually use.
 
Lux is the wavelengths the human eye can see. PAR includes wavelengths above and below. Mayne did measurements with a light meter (Lux) and quantum meter (PAR) to determine the conversion factor. A few others have done the same and confirmed his findings.
 
Pennywise said:
Lux measures candle power, par = Photosynthetic Active Radiation. Par is the light From 400-700 that plants can actually use.
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Old Salt said:
Lux is the wavelengths the human eye can see. PAR includes wavelengths above and below. Mayne did measurements with a light meter (Lux) and quantum meter (PAR) to determine the conversion factor. A few others have done the same and confirmed his findings.
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Old Salt said:
You can use a light meter app on your smart phone to get a reasonable approximation of the PAR value.
PAR ≈ Lux/67

So in veg 23,450 - 26,800 Lux, and in flower 67,000 Lux, at the canopy.

Also, beware of plants that fall outside these general rules. My Sapphire Scout got severe light burn in a matter of days when the other plants in the tent shading it were harvested.
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Great info guys. I have an old photo light meter and at the canopy I have a reading of 13.5 LW EV reading whatever the heck that is but on the back of the meter is a conversion chart and 13.5 LW EV is about 66000 Lux so I am pretty close to where I should be. :thumb:

I was reading on a sunny day at 100 ASA, f16 would have a shutter speed of about 1/100th and my setting is only a little over a stop from that so my light is a little under 50% the brightness of outdoors. That is pretty bright.

q.jpg


ww.jpg
 
That also makes sense because my MegaLight is suppose to be good for a flowering area of 5' by 5' but mine is only 3x3 so 600W x9 divided by 25 is 216W and I am set at 200W.

I am not just saying it out of appreciation the MegaLight is a great and very efficient light compared to those darn blurple designs.
 
JCTJ said:
If you have a Samsung phone you can also go to the keypad and type *#0*# and then hit sensor. Lux will be available under "Lights Sensor"
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Thanks for the info but I am stuck with an iPhone.
 
I got a $30 lux meter off Amazon (LX1330B) and use an online converter for PPFD.

Conversion is only 100% accurate for fixed spectrum lights. With tuned lighting that conversion becomes more of an approximation.
 
InTheShed said:
I got a $30 lux meter off Amazon (LX1330B) and use an online converter for PPFD.

Conversion is only 100% accurate for fixed spectrum lights. With tuned lighting that conversion becomes more of an approximation.
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The same meter on Amazon.ca is $45. :oops: My lights are fixed spectrum but for some reason, I can't find them online. This is the only info I can find printed on them but it is nowhere to be found. I wish I could find them because I am curious about the spectrum temp.
f.jpg
 
The manufacturer doesn't have the color temp in the specs? I can't find that board online either.
 
InTheShed said:
The manufacturer doesn't have the color temp in the specs? I can't find that board online either.
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I cannot find the manufacturer because I cannot type UR backwards, lol. But seriously. I have no idea who they are. RU doesn't work either.
 
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