HighTechRasta's 1000W China LED COCO 4x3 2in1 Tent Perpetual SCROG With BruceBanner & Bagseed

I tried reverse engineering AN, but they don't like to share their recipe and their guaranteed analysis I find to be lacking, likely due to their proprietary blend, so my magic won't be of much use aside from a general explanation.

TDS/EC meters test the solution by sending a known voltage through one electrode and measuring what is recorded on the other electrode. It measures the amount of dissolved salt in the water, but our synthetic nutrients aren't entirely soluble salts, and AN I suspect to be even less so with their proprietary contents they also add such as chelating agents or other organic matter to buffer the PH for the end user. I myself like to add fulvic and humic acids after I mix my nutes which themselves have something of a blocking effect which causes peculiar readings on my meter from time to time. So I can only speculate and say that the organic or other contents of your solutions are in a sense playing games with your meter which in turn is then playing games with you.
 
Wow, I get so caught up reading stuff here and dialing in my setup
the Journal is actually suffering. :oops:

Here are the post recent upgrades pics...

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The full length view.
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Up close with the bottom, look at the little humidifier go eh...
Slowly getting the drip pressure equalized with the new inline shutoff valves.
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Up close with the middle, this area is 18in from net to net on top, goes like this all together,
From floor to top of pots is 9in, pots are 8in full, 20in to first net, giving me 12in to veg and pre-train in.
18in to next net, this is the stretch and bud zone, with the top net being upper bud support where they
either touch it or are strung from it for support. Above that we have 22in of light space to work in.
:thumb:
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Up close with the top, very happy with the mylar addition, getting a new 480w Quantum Light tomorrow.
Happy with the setup in general so far, a lot has been done in a short time I think.
There's more right around the corner though...
:ganjamon:
 
Doh... Forgot these 3 pics

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Glamour shot of the Bagseed performer in the back.
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Top down shot from the second net height. Putting together that DIY pvc frame and netting was pretty
satisfying, very proud of it. :slide:
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The new timer is Bad Ass! This thing does what "they" call "interval circulation", I currently have it
set to 2min ON - 2hr58min OFF and repeat infinitely. Later I can set it to run the same for just 12hrs a day.
The top half of the screen in the pic is showing a countdown to the next watering, the bottom half is current time of day in 24hr, I love it! Check out the chinglish manual, I think this is amazing for hydro irrigation.
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I gotta say, my only gripe is the tiny labels on the buttons.
I'm going to print out a blown up pic for the wall above it :idea:
 
I predict those 4 plants will overgrow that tent and make your harvest a living hell, especially when you have to cut them out of 2 layers of netting.

As to timers, you'll get a LOT more flexibility with an Arduino, Real Time Clock (RTC) and controllable relay modules, and just work out the on time, or frequencies or whatever you can possibly imagine in code. Relay modules come in 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 channels and are fairly cheap and each are rated up to 10 amps.
 
I predict those 4 plants will overgrow that tent and make your harvest a living hell, especially when you have to cut them out of 2 layers of netting.
Challenge Accepted!
:headbanger:

As to timers, you'll get a LOT more flexibility with an Arduino, Real Time Clock (RTC) and controllable relay modules, and just work out the on time, or frequencies or whatever you can possibly imagine in code. Relay modules come in 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 channels and are fairly cheap and each are rated up to 10 amps.
Ok, so like, when did we all become Arduino, with added RTC module, IDE wranglers?
I do know about these things, don't know how you knew I know...:hmmmm:
I do have some Nanos around and was thinking I might start with an Arduino
running a RH triggered exhaust fan on a Uhaul Clothing Box, for drying...
The future's so bright...
:cool:
 
I didn't know the you know, in fact I guessed that you didn't know and I was attempting to pique your curiosity. Had you "known", I would've guessed that you would not being in the predicament you explained regarding the shortcoming of your timer.

But as said, if you can think out the logic into a sentence, it can be coded and executed. I spent years hashing most of this stuff out and only recently switched gears and veered away from automated grow rooms.
 
All good Skybound...

I thought maybe you saw my other YouTube video and saw arduinos in the background.
I'm into R/C and we use them for on screen display functions in our video feed.

Ummm, I don't think I described my experience with the new timer as a predicament...
The thing is working great and very flexible for what I'm using it for.
Beyond that, I'm with you on staying away from too much automation,
I like the daily involvement, all other hobbies are suffering now.

You think I have too much plant in there, should I flip the lights now?
:hmmmm:
 
You think I have too much plant in there, should I flip the lights now?
:hmmmm:

yeah, I'd switch to 12/12 now, even if your new panel is still in shipping. You can swap panels mid grow with no worries, but I do think you already have too much green in there. If you consider that each can more than double in size, you'll have crisscrossed branches everywhere and buds will be pressed against each other leading to a breeding ground for molds or mildews. I grow 1 plant in 4x4 rooms so not to deal with those problems. If you're going for SOG, I would avoid topping, and veg clones for 3-4 weeks tops.
 
yeah, I'd switch to 12/12 now, even if your new panel is still in shipping. You can swap panels mid grow with no worries,
Ok, doing it tonight, my lights-on schedule is 7pm-7am, to reflect this areas off-peak hours.
New light is coming today, got 2 texts from DHL this morning. :yahoo:

but I do think you already have too much green in there. If you consider that each can more than double in size, you'll have crisscrossed branches everywhere and buds will be pressed against each other leading to a breeding ground for molds or mildews. I grow 1 plant in 4x4 rooms so not to deal with those problems. If you're going for SOG, I would avoid topping, and veg clones for 3-4 weeks tops.
My intention is SCROG, I will be running 2 topped plants going forward.
Have some new gear coming again, just pulled the trigger this morning
Details next post...

Skybound, just want to say, I really appreciate you being here for me on this!!

:ganjamon:
 
Not a problem. We learn from the community and give back when there is need.
 
Oh!!

I think I forgot to mention,
I ordered a life/grow changing product!

Flying Skull Z7(USA)
Flying Skull Z9(CAN)

This stuff is supposed to keep slime outta everything,
Keep lines and drippers unclogged
No more SensiZyme needed
and Balance my Ph!

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They make some serious claims..

"Z9 protects the roots and growing medium from microscopic particulate, mineral build up, and inanimate slimy conditions. Z9 helps to stabilize the pH swings caused by the interaction between plant nutrients, dead plant cells and chemical additives. Z9 cleaner: Keeps hydroponic pipes, tanks and soil drip watering systems free from inanimate slime and mineral buildup. Z9 compatibility: For use in soil growing and hydroponic systems. Z9 is compatible with any plant food (organic or chemical), or Mycorrhizae supplement."

We will see...
:rolleyes:
 
OK, got the light mod done...

It came packed really good, with reinforced edges and corners all the way around
Nice rigid air tube sleeves as well...
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Rigid edge reinforcements from around the box.

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Protective rigid air tube sleeves, impressive.

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Light with 1 panel removed and flipped over, picture taking was a little out of order, so there's that.

Attention!!!

Regardless of what you think about me doing this to my light..
Every site that sells these, including HLG, always claim,

"No Thermal Interface Material is required between the QB board and flat metal heatsink."

I made a big effort to find any info on doing what I did,
but just kept running into that claim...

Well, from being a PC Technician since time immemorial
I'm pretty set in my ways, and the benefits, of thermal paste on heatsinks.
I'm not gonna get all science on this, but gaps are NOT GOOD!
Thermal paste or not, full contact is crucial!

With that in mind. I dare anyone with a QB based light to take the thing apart
and have a look at the back of the board!
I present you with this...
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What do we have here? 3 specks of Solder, not a good clean job was done before the wave solder bath
during manufacturing. Also not checked for post-solder bath! This stuff was present on all 4 panels...
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Burring not too bad on the aluminum machining and drilling... 2 more specks.
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Nice little speed bump there...
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And there...
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And these 2 little tree stumps...
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Yup...

All of the above was removed with a razor blade.
Surfaces then cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol.

Continued...
 
So,

Now I line up the edges and get some markings for the lines of LEDs.
Later I measured the gaps in millimeters and noted them.
Much faster that way, learning as I go...
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Now I lay down some tape as a guide and lay down my first run of Arctic Silver 5.
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Closer...
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So, right after this first run, I decide it's going to be easier to just lay a marker line down.
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And then free-hand the bead, and then free-hand the spreading with my tiny trowel.
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All done and buttoned back up.
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When replacing a panel, I carefully let one side down and started 2 end screws for alignment while letting the
other side down. Then I barely snugged all the screws, ran my fingers along between all the rows of LEDs to
seat the thermal paste, then fully snugged all the screws working out from the middle.
Those wire connectors are a PITA to release! I had to release 2 wires on 2 of the 4 panels to flip them over.
My little spatula/trowel was the wedge end of a "case opening tool".

Now, off to swap this bad-boy in...
:ganjamon:
 
I don't know the math, but I just extended the life of the light by some crazy amount, I'm sure!
Pretty sure it would increase the performance by some tiny amount too.
What I do know...
The more heat you can move away
from something that's meant to be cooled
The better it performs and lasts.

I spent 2hrs doing it and $40 CAD on the paste.
I feel much better for doing it.
:thumb:
 
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