Here’s what you got with that mix. I have no idea what your well water is like, but I hope it has some calcium and magnesium!
Here’s what you got with that mix. I have no idea what your well water is like, but I hope it has some calcium and magnesium!
@TorturedSoul, that’s twice in half an hour I’ve been stunned at the knowledge you’re carrying around in that head of yours.
LMAO. You can put 642 slugs along with one quarter into a piggy bank, and if you turn it upside down and shake it often enough, sooner or later it'll spit out something useful.
Following how-to instructions, that's fine. For the really dense, it is probably a requirement
. For those willing to figure out how and WHY a how-to works, it can serve as a foundation for their (one hopes and assumes) ever-expanding knowledge base. Which is important, IMHO, not just for the possibility of going on to "bigger and better things," but also for those cases when one has conditions or encounters issues that the author of the how-to didn't cover in their instructions.You can make great meals from great recipes. But some of the things that have been thrown together when a pretty little (typically) brunette and I just had a buzz (whether induced or natural
) going and wandered into the kitchen to assuage one of our appetites... Magnificent (usually) - and on the rare occasions when the result left something to be desired, well... dessert was just around the corner - and up a flight of stairs...Wait a minute!Are you saying that you mixed up half the recommended dose (1ml/gal instead of 2ml/gal), or did you mix a 50% concentration of the nutrients straight from the bottle? Like, 1 ml of nutes to 2ml water?
You are thinking(?) too much.
I've seen more cases of over-fertilization than under.
There are cannabis (et cetera) toxicity/deficiency charts all over the Internet - including right here in our own forum.
For-profit business: A business or other organization whose primary goal is making money (a profit), as opposed to a non profit organization which focuses a goal such as helping the community and is concerned with money only as much as necessary to keep the organization operating.
When in doubt about the meaning of a term, look it up, lol.
Lol. I was going to make a joke about how maybe they're actually using deuterium oxide ("heavy water") - but then I did a quick check to see how much Cambridge Isotopes currently charges for the stuff. $32 for 60ml
.Must be nice. OtOH, last year I read about a guy out west somewhere that jumped at a "really good deal" on well-drilling equipment so he could "save thousands" by drilling his own well in order to get a mortgage on his property. Turned out what he didn't get was... permits. IDK how that worked out; the thread ended with him owing money, getting fined by at least one jurisdiction (state) and possibly a local one, and in danger of losing his property because he was suddenly behind the eight ball on payments (whole reason he initially decided to convert to a mortgage, IIRC).
Water will eventually become our most expensive utility. Probably within most of our lifetimes. We might even end up having TWO water lines - the one that we can (arguably) afford to use, and the other that is (again, arguably) safe to actually drink.
Considering the price difference between dry and "wet" nutrients, even from the same company, one would almost think so.
BtW, I once saw a book at my local library on hydroponics, and it had a good section on mixing up your own hydroponic nutrients from the individual components. The copyright on the book was 1972. It's really NOT rocket science.
What we're actually paying for is convenience. Or laziness, depending on how you want to look at it.
FelipeBlu said:
Wait a minute! Are you saying that you mixed up half the recommended dose (1ml/gal instead of 2ml/gal), or did you mix a 50% concentration of the nutrients straight from the bottle? Like, 1 ml of nutes to 2ml water?
MB voice: “You talking to me?“
LOL, yeah, it’s what I do.
True. But I like getting to harvest without having to consult one.
No “almost” about it in my mind. I can provide all the nutrients needed at luxury levels (~800ppm) with dry nutrients for <$0.04/gal, compared to many of the liquid nutrients lines that could cost over $1/gal for a much lower (and less complete) nutrient profile.
Wait a minute! Are you saying that you mixed up half the recommended dose (1ml/gal instead of 2ml/gal), or did you mix a 50% concentration of the nutrients straight from the bottle? Like, 1 ml of nutes to 2ml water?
MB voice: “You talking to me?“
LOL, yeah, it’s what I do.
True. But I like getting to harvest without having to consult one.
No “almost” about it in my mind. I can provide all the nutrients needed at luxury levels (~800ppm) with dry nutrients for <$0.04/gal, compared to many of the liquid nutrients lines that could cost over $1/gal for a much lower (and less complete) nutrient profile.
A dollar a gallon?! Whoa...
In my experience the DDA are light feeders. I haven't grown one yet that didn't claw. I never go over 50% recommended dosage with AN. I'd have to dig out my notes to give an exact amount though.
I don't think you need to dig out the notes. I'll settle in at around 1/2 strength nutes and see how they grow. Thanks for the input.
I am in the Blue Dream'Matic comparative grow sponsored by The Vault. Today is day three after putting a BD seed in a hempy solo cup. Woke up to find they do most of their work at night. Not sure about the color of the plant yet. Not seeing much green. Maybe that will change once she's standing tall. But right now so far I am 3 for 3 with a 100% success rate germinating in hempy doing nothing but drop a seed in a 1/2" deep hole in soaked perlite and letting it do it's thing.
You already have a hole in those cups when you drop the seed in, or do you create - or uncover - the hole after a seedling appears?
I heat a .50 cal shell casing and melt out the hole which I cover with tape. I then fill the cup with rinsed perlite. I mix up some 1/4 strength nutrients and fill the cup till the perlite is nearly overflowing. I let it sit like this for a few hours. Two hours would surely be sufficient. Then once it's soaked up all it can I remove the tape, make a 1/2" deep hole in the top, drop in the seed, cover it up, put on the dome, and wait. I've tried three times and all three times the seed sprouted on the third day. It stays under the dome for 24 hours and then the dome goes away.
Greetings Hempyites!
I like to introduce a new member to the Hempy universe. This was moving day, into a 5 gallon bucket, taped (with green!) to block light, 3/8” hole at 2” above bottom. Rootmass right on top of 8L of 100% perlite, rinsed and then re-rinsed with pH 5.8 water (with added Ca/Mg since my water is so soft).
Peeled off the fabric pot, which removed enough rootmass to allow it to fit into bucket. Roots looked healthy (sorry, no pics). After fertigating with first use of new dry nutes, and topping with recycled pumice, she’s back in the greenhouse.
I like to introduce a new member to the Hempy universe. This was moving day, into a 5 gallon bucket, taped (with green!) to block light, 3/8” hole at 2” above bottom. Rootmass right on top of 8L of 100% perlite, rinsed and then re-rinsed with pH 5.8 water (with added Ca/Mg since my water is so soft).
Peeled off the fabric pot, which removed enough rootmass to allow it to fit into bucket. Roots looked healthy (sorry, no pics). After fertigating with first use of new dry nutes, and topping with recycled pumice, she’s back in the greenhouse.
I see your "second-life" auto-flowering plant is doing fine (and flowering). The minor root trauma may have been a bit stressful, but should provoke a growth response down there, helping the plant better integrate itself with the media and be more stable.
If it was me doing it, I might choose to prune as much of that old woody growth away as possible. Could be a potential entry point / snack bar for unwelcome microbial life. But the plant certainly seems healthy enough now under your care, lol - so IDK if you should take someone else's advice .
If it was me doing it, I might choose to prune as much of that old woody growth away as possible. Could be a potential entry point / snack bar for unwelcome microbial life. But the plant certainly seems healthy enough now under your care, lol - so IDK if you should take someone else's advice
.
When growing in soil my PH goal was 6.3 to 6.5 What should I be looking for growing in the perlite? I'm guessing in the upper 5's? 5.8?
BTzGrow
Well-Known Member
I try and keep my mix at 6.0 +/- .1 At least that's my understanding for hemp, as it a bit more like DWC only passive. Many don't even measure pH at all with their grows.
I try for 5.8 to 6.0 - but I think it’s okay to range from 5.7 to 6.2
Well good, that will save me a bit on PH up. My well water right out of the tap is at 6.9 this time of year. After I add the nutrients if obviously goes down. But with the reduced nutrients I'll bet the PH would be in that 5.8 ballpark. Still trying to figure out the best way to get photos of the little DDA plants short of breaking out my camera. Here they are today on day 7.
Thanks Felipe and BT. I'm feeding every 2 days giving the plants a 50% strength mixture. For now I am using the Fox Farm nutrients. Big Bloom, Grow Big, and Cal-Mag. I am taking the pots and holding them over the sink and tilting as far as I dare and pouring out as much of the old nutrients as I can. I then water/feed in circles around the plant and end by pouring the majority of the nutrients down the side opposite the hole to try and flush more of the old stuff out. Any other tricks or tips are of course appreciated.
I was wondering too what would happen if you were to mix in 10-15% peat moss to 85-90% perlite. Would you be able to then build up some good bacteria to benefit the root system? Or is that just not enough material?
I was wondering too what would happen if you were to mix in 10-15% peat moss to 85-90% perlite. Would you be able to then build up some good bacteria to benefit the root system? Or is that just not enough material?
If I were to add anything to perlite for a hempy, it would be rinsed/buffered coco.
Peat, in addition to having a naturally low pH, disintegrates to a sludge in a relatively short period. These fines will affect the effectiveness of the perlite to drain properly.
Also, introducing bacteria/microflora into hempy is unnecessary. Using nutrients designed for hydro is much more effective.
Peat, in addition to having a naturally low pH, disintegrates to a sludge in a relatively short period. These fines will affect the effectiveness of the perlite to drain properly.
Also, introducing bacteria/microflora into hempy is unnecessary. Using nutrients designed for hydro is much more effective.
Is a 2 liter bottle with the top cut off a large enough pot for an auto flower plant growing in 100% perlite? If so I would need to put duct tape around it correct? The weak looking Blue Dream auto is looking today like she might just make it. So I need to get her permanent home ready for her.
I've used them, wasn't the best option, it got root packed pretty early on
Id shoot for a gallon or bigger
@SweetSue uses drink pitchers that may be about a gallon. I'm also thinking those cheap, real thin plastic bathroom trash cans might work. I would love to find some square plastic pots about 12" tall that held about 1.5 gallons. I think they would be perfect.