Hempy Headquarters

first off your PH is fine between 5.8 and 6.2 - get it in that range and don't worry about it. I purposely vary it as some micros are absorbed at different ranges. What are your PPM's your feeding it? The hole in your bucket looks too high. To me it looks like your PH might be out of wack and/or PPM'S are too much - have you tested your meters with a calibration solution to make sure it's right?

From my experience, when your ph is not right (I mean really wrong) the plants will curl up and get all knarly looking. Overfeeding will usually turn tips brown and really high will burn the tips, edges starting at the tips and working its way down the leaf and curling up like your leaves. Additionally overfeeding will work its way up the stem and effect new growth.

there are other reasons it could be also i.e. environment, over/under watering - its hard to pinpoint with out knowing if your meters are right and what your ppm's are they are getting fed. If you are using straight perlite it might be causing you to overfeed where as if you use the mixture of perlite/vermiculate - there is a smaller reservoir for the roots to sit in and the vermiculite that holds the moisture kind of slow feeds it. Again - don't feed it until the pot is light!

hope that helps some

I typically don't have any of these problems you are facing with hempy's but I follow a certain tried and true process that works and stopped following others fertilizer, cal-mag suggestions and just keep it simple. If you want to do hempy's my way, I'd be happy to give you the exact process I follow. I can't remember the last time I had a problem - Oh yes I can - used Mad Farmer Mother of All Blooms - Ugh.

just my 2 cents and probably worth less than that

BBB
 
I decided to post my method in hopes it will help other out - any ?'s just ask, I'm sure I left something out

BigBudsBunny Hempy method (Indoors)

I keep it simple - let the plants do what they do.
I might top some, lst some but generally let them be since quantity
is not my goal and don't want to introduce stress. I don't mess with
any additives and just follow a simple feeding formula and lighting plan

1 start cuttings in a coffee cup of water under not direct light
2 once roots form 1"+ I will transplant from coffee cup into a clear
cup with a hole about a 1/2 from the bottom of the cup. the clear cup
has a 3 to 1 ratio of perlite and vermiculite. The mix is flooded with
a very light feeding formula of about 300ppm (my well is 125ppm so about
another 200ppms of fertilizer or so)
3 the rooted clone is transplanted into the clear cup then fed a little
WATER (Not fertilizer solution) direct to its stem position for dilution
4 In a few days new growth will show. when growth shows I will up the ppm's
until they reach about 550-600 or so depends on how the plant reacts
5 when at the right height, transplant to its final resting place
in my case I use 2.5 gal plastic buckets.
6 The plastic Buckets I use are 2.5 gal and the center of the hole is
about 1.5" up from bottom of bucket and its a 3/4" hole I think.
The buckets are filled with the same ratio of perlite to vermiculite (3-1)
7 The mix is then flooded with the feeding solution until run-off (500-550ppm's)
8 the clone is transplanted yo the bucket. Note I usually see no change
from the transplant - no wilting - no ill effects.
9 One transplanted I typically move them from a 250w cfl that the clones
sit under over to a 400w MH Light until they are ready for the flower tent.
10 once ready for the flower tent I will feed a transition formula one time (2,2,2).
11 the next feeding will be a bloom formula (1,2,3)
11 I continue with bloom formula until about a week before harvest where I will
feed it just plain ph'd water.
that it!

Now for the details
soilless mixture 3 parts perlite to 1 part vermiculite

I use GH 3 part formula
newly rooted clones transplanted to inner hempy cup get about 300-325ppm until I see
growth.
Once I see new growth I increase the ppm's each time I feed until I max out
to around 550 ppm's (plants are about 9"+) at about this time and have at least 3-4
alternating branches. Typically I may see a tiny bit of tip burning(yellowing) indicating
I'm at about the right feeding ppm level
When feeding in the bucket I follow the same feeding ppm's as when the clones are transplanted
and maybe boost up to 600-650 ppm's if I see no burning or tip yellowing.

clones and vegging I use 3,2,1 gh formula
transition (1 time) I use 2,2,2 gh formula
Flowering I use 1,2,3 gh formula

Always mix micro first, then grow, then bloom when mixing in that order then ph

your ph will change as your mix ages. Mine will usually rise and has to be ph'd again
before its fed to the plants. The Mix will last about 5 days before I will do a new batch when
needed.

Water
My water is well water at about 125ppm's - 165 ppm's on any given day. It is run thru a carbon
charcoal filter attached to the well as well as a salt tub for water softening. I DO NOT USE
THE SALT PORTION OF THE WATER SYSTEM. SALT KILLS YOUR PLANTS! The 125-165 ppms is INCLUDED in
the ppm's I feed the [plants.

PH
I typically PH my plants between 5.8 and 6.2. Meters are checked for accuracy every 3/4th time I feed
In my situation, I never have to use PH up but use a good amount of ph-down. The feeding solution is
always ph'd! I'm not particular about which ph it gets as long as its in the range as nutrients are
taken up at different ph levels.

Additives
I don't use any additives i.e. cal/mag, bllom supplememts etc. Not that I can't but why create a problem
I grow for quality not quantity.

Lighting
clones and vegging start with a 250w CFL at a certain height plants are moved over to a 400w mh fixture
until ready for the flowering tent.

flowering tent
5x5 gorilla tent. 2 600w hps fixtures for total 1200w.

ventilation
during lights on I keep the tent open.
a 6" hurricane fan sucks the heat from the glass enclosed 600w fixtures and is pumped out a window
light out - the tent is closed up and the exhaust is continued to run

I try and keep it simple without overcomplicating everything. Under This method I have had no
problems...period. I might not get the best yields but quality is outstanding. I typically only average
1.25 to 1.75 oz per plant under this method so be warned - you'll have to adjust things up if you want
qty

hope that helps ...any ?'s feel free

I know what I got, I know how it works, I have no issues, Won't change a tried and true method
 
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