My question, what are your Top 5 tips when growing an auto?
First and foremost, I don't treat my autos any differently than I do my photos. So what is my process?
I grow in a soil-less peat based medium, either store bought or homemade. This is probably of little consequence because I believe that it can be done in any medium. The reason I choose peat based is that it's pre-buffered and I don't have to worry about pH adjusting my nutrient solution. 5 gallon fabric pots is my preference.
i mainly sprout my seeds in Jiffy plugs and transplant them directly into the 5 gallon bags once the sprout has been above ground for a day. I used to remove the little mesh wrapper on the Jiffy plug but discontinued that process and didn't see a difference. Lately I've forgone the jiffy plug and have soaked my seeds in a week nutrient solution for 24 hours and then planted them in Solo cups filled with my growing medium. It seems to cut a couple days off the germination process vs Jiffy plugs. If I'm doing the Solo cup routine, I let them go until the leaves are able to reach the outside edge of the cups before I transplant. Again I don't think whichever method used has much to do with final size.
Here is where I see myself differing from the mainstream. I have very specific ppm targets for the macro elements when it comes to feeding. That and I do not significantly alter my feed blend from the growth stage to the bloom stage. The ratios remain constant, I just feed higher doses as the plant matures. My full strength fertilizer blend looks close to:
150 ppm N
30 ppm P
200 ppm K
30 ppm Mg
80 ppm Ca
30 ppm S
50 ppm Si
Obviously I don't start a seedling at 100%, but I taper in the feed as they age. For seed sprouting, and their first 5 days above ground, they get 1/5 of the full strength dose, or 30 ppm of N. Every 5 days or so above ground thereafter, I increase by another 1/5. So if I'm watering on day 6 or so, I'm upping their feed to 60 ppm N. Day 11, 90 ppm N, and so on. By around Day 26 I'm finally at 100%, or 150 ppm of N.
Currently I am using my own blend that I call Farside Nutrients Fertilizer, or FN Fertilizer ™, but I have successfully used those targets with various nutrient lines with varying supplements to reach those goals. I've used Dyna Gro Foliage Pro, Mega Crop, Orchidgain, MSU Orchid Fertilizer, and Jacks for tap Water, as a base, all with good results. I've created my own spreadsheet to make calculations so I can tweak the base nutrients with additives to get to my goals. There's other calculators available that will do the same but I find some of them cumbersome to operate.
While I'm increasing their feed, I'm also increasing their light intensity. I use a lux meter for my measurements. Beware, light meter apps for cell phones aren't very accurate. They're better on iPhones but horrible for Androids. For the first 5 days above ground I'll be around 8-10k lux. Day 6-10 around 12k, Day 11-15 20k, Day 16-20 25k, Day 21-26 35k, Day 26+ 50k.
So we've talked about feed and light, how about training. I try to top around node 5, which typically is around Day 21-23. I've had one get to node 6 but basically I want to have my topping done no more than 3 days after I see they've declared sex. I do not remove any of the lower nodes at this time, like one would do if quadlining. I may remove node 1 later if I see it's not going to account for much. From there I bowl train. Using pipe cleaners and binder clips that are attached to the edges of the fabric pot. Lately I've been using some of the red 90 degree plant benders but you have to use extreme caution with them or you can easily break a stem. They do make it easier to water though since you don't have all the wires in the way. I've never been able to get super aggressive on training because I typically have 4 plants in the tent and run out of horizontal space.
As far as defoliation, I might take off a few bottom leaves to make it easier to water, but otherwise leave them go until several weeks after bloom. Then I'll clean up the bottoms good and de-larf them. If I need to thin the middle of the plant, I'll take off some inner fan leaves for better light penetration. Lately after topping, I may take off the top two upper fan leaves too for better light penetration to the lower nodes.
So all of the above applies to any thing I grow, photo or auto. The only thing that I would say is auto specific is genetics. Sometimes the difference between a small, average, and exceptional auto is out of your control. Probably not what you wanted to hear. With a photo, if you have a smaller plant, you can always choose to veg it longer until it gets the size you want, then flip it. With autos, that's not the case since you aren't in control of when the plant switches itself to bloom. Not all auto strains are created equal. Some breeders may have better auto genetics than others, and some breeders may have some strains that produce fantastic plants consistently, while other strains may be average or sub par. Growing autos is a hunt for finding those breeder/strain combos that get you great yields in a short timeframe. Some of my hunting results.... Personally I find Fastbuds Blue Dream and Girl Scout Cookies to be big yielders. Many of Fastbuds strains are above average in size and weight, but they're damn pricey! I don't like paying $13 a seed. Nirvana's Original Glue has been incredibly uniform, plant to plant, yields great, and requires very little training. A personal favorite. A couple of their other strains, although good quality bud, just don't tip the scales as much. I grew two strains from Weedseed Express and both were disappointing. Plenty of members have had success with their photos, but for me and their autos, I'll pass. They may have a good strain or two in there somewhere, but I spent too much time and effort for lackluster yields (did 2 crops of them or 8 plants total). I grew about 6 strains from Sweet Seeds and never got anything of size or weight either. I'm currently weeding my way (see what I did there) through some of the catalog of
@Expert Seedbank. Their Tropicana Cookies Purple looks solid. The Bruce Banner should be fine. It's a late developer. I was worried about them a couple weeks ago since the colas we're so spindly. The Blueberry Glues are to young to guage yet and I just ordered 4 more of their strains.
Hopefully some of my ramblings answered a question or two, or at least gave you a synopsis of my threads so far so that you don't have to wade through the many pages.