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@Delps8 I did a reading from the tops of pretty much every point of the plants and this is what it’s looking like. According to this at a ratio of .015 I’m getting an average of 1108 ppfd to the canopy, not too shabby :)
 

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Day 69/40

Not a whole bunch to update on. Not really noticing much color change on them other than some more purple creeping in on the one plant. Other than the coloring on the leaves and the little bit of clawing they look pretty happy :) and I know that I enjoy checking in on them.

The ambient temp of your tent may be above 65° but what are your root temps like? I've personally seen my root temps (moist soil) be 8-9 degrees cooler than the ambient air temp.
I haven’t set up the probes yet but I can almost guarantee that the soil temp is dropping below 65° as the ambient temp in the tent last night was 68°. With the moisture in the soil and fans blowing across the surface of the soil it’s going to be lower. I might pick up some heating mats for the next grow but will probably let this one ride the storm out.

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Wondering if there is anything I should be doing at this point being at week 8 of flower. According to where I got my seeds they have a 9-10 week flower cycle. I think one plant is about 2 weeks behind the other so have plenty of time with that one.

Should I be trimming back all the leaves? Or stopping nutes soon or??? Any other clever tricks up your sleeve in the last 1-3 weeks??
 
Wondering if there is anything I should be doing at this point being at week 8 of flower. According to where I got my seeds they have a 9-10 week flower cycle. I think one plant is about 2 weeks behind the other so have plenty of time with that one.

Should I be trimming back all the leaves? Or stopping nutes soon or??? Any other clever tricks up your sleeve in the last 1-3 weeks??
In a word, "no".

My practice is to remove mature fan leaves that have reached senescence and in mid-flower, I remove any stems that are smaller than a pencil. The latter point is because I only use the colas and I'd rather get rid of the "ash and trash" before harvest time.

The reason to remove very old fan leaves - as fan leaves age, they get less photosynthetically efficient and, at some point, become a net photosynthetic loss. The plant will allow the mature leaves to die off but the old leaves are a source of nutrients that are used by the flowers. For that reason, I leave them on on the plant until they're "fairly yellow" (that color being in the eye of the beholder) and then remove them.

I've never been convinced of the value of "stripping" plants or even heavily defoliating them. Lots of anecdotes but no data and it certainly doesn't jive with anything I've read about plant biology.

"stopping nutes" - same line of thinking for me re. removing healthy tissue. I haven't seen any data to support the theory and it's contrary to everything that the grower has done for months to make the plant healthy. As soon as the lights go out, photosynthesis stops so the plant is now living on stored sugar. Once that runs out, tissue death starts. Does it invoke a "stress response"? Perhaps but until there's data or an outcome that is explained by plant biology, I'll stick to continuing to feed.

The graphic below is a good guide. Figure out how to optimize each area and you'll have a lot of cannabis.

Parameters of Growth.png
 
In a word, "no".

My practice is to remove mature fan leaves that have reached senescence and in mid-flower, I remove any stems that are smaller than a pencil. The latter point is because I only use the colas and I'd rather get rid of the "ash and trash" before harvest time.

The reason to remove very old fan leaves - as fan leaves age, they get less photosynthetically efficient and, at some point, become a net photosynthetic loss. The plant will allow the mature leaves to die off but the old leaves are a source of nutrients that are used by the flowers. For that reason, I leave them on on the plant until they're "fairly yellow" (that color being in the eye of the beholder) and then remove them.

I've never been convinced of the value of "stripping" plants or even heavily defoliating them. Lots of anecdotes but no data and it certainly doesn't jive with anything I've read about plant biology.

"stopping nutes" - same line of thinking for me re. removing healthy tissue. I haven't seen any data to support the theory and it's contrary to everything that the grower has done for months to make the plant healthy. As soon as the lights go out, photosynthesis stops so the plant is now living on stored sugar. Once that runs out, tissue death starts. Does it invoke a "stress response"? Perhaps but until there's data or an outcome that is explained by plant biology, I'll stick to continuing to feed.

The graphic below is a good guide. Figure out how to optimize each area and you'll have a lot of cannabis.

Parameters of Growth.png
Hey now! That’s the second best news I’ve heard all day! I don’t have to do anything! Haha

Thanks again for the info!
 
Hey now! That’s the second best news I’ve heard all day! I don’t have to do anything! Haha

Thanks again for the info!
Yeh, for now. But then you'll get to harvest all of this fine weed. That can be a lot of work …lengthy…process.

I just re-read your first posting in this thread and I am/was in the same situation as you. I did a grow in 2017 that I didn't get to harvest. I "archived" my grow tent and started up again in early 2021. You wrote " Ohh how things have changed!" - amen to that!

When I skimmed, just now, through the journal, I wasn't thinking that this was an auto grow. My first five grows (not the one in 2017) were autos and they are tough MOFO's - they just keep growing and growing and growing.

If you check out my grow journals, I was pretty helicopter plant daddy for the first few and I've had some "challenged" but the plants, overall, did great.

Re. the weeks from seed to harvest — the pattern that I have seen is that the smaller the plant, the closer you'll get to those estimates. You've got healthy, vital plants in good sized pots so they're growing big and I'd wager that they'll "go long". My grows, different strains, different vendors, all were 110-113 days.
 
Yeh, for now. But then you'll get to harvest all of this fine weed. That can be a lot of work …lengthy…process.

I just re-read your first posting in this thread and I am/was in the same situation as you. I did a grow in 2017 that I didn't get to harvest. I "archived" my grow tent and started up again in early 2021. You wrote " Ohh how things have changed!" - amen to that!

When I skimmed, just now, through the journal, I wasn't thinking that this was an auto grow. My first five grows (not the one in 2017) were autos and they are tough MOFO's - they just keep growing and growing and growing.

If you check out my grow journals, I was pretty helicopter plant daddy for the first few and I've had some "challenged" but the plants, overall, did great.

Re. the weeks from seed to harvest — the pattern that I have seen is that the smaller the plant, the closer you'll get to those estimates. You've got healthy, vital plants in good sized pots so they're growing big and I'd wager that they'll "go long". My grows, different strains, different vendors, all were 110-113 days.
Yeah we did a few hydro grows 20+ years ago and had what we thought we had good results. Looking back at it, I would say it was mediocre at best. Also was much more expensive to get the set up going and we had to worry about smell and power consumption and all that fun stuff :) things are much easier now, way more refined and there are great communities out there like this one for newbs like myself to bounce ideas off of and ask for help. It’s really pretty amazing actually.

I would be surprised to see these go 100+ days, asleast not both of them. However there has been some new white hair explosion on the more mature plant in the last 2 days. I noticed these little “pods”kind of randomly placed all over the buds and some of them are throwing new white hairs even as some of the older ones are Turing red/ brown and turning back towards the buds. Really I’m going to wait until the pistols are starting to darken before I harvest.

Reminds me, I really need to read up on that subject and decide what my plan/process is going to be.
 
Houston part deux…

I didn’t get a chance to take proper pictures, had to use a flashlight so doesn’t really show well. But the one plant that’s been struggling is in the struggle buss big time!! It actually had a lean to it it was drooping so bad. Leaves have gone full yellow. Soil was dry so I gave it a full gallon of ph’d water. I’m thinking I somehow messed up the root structure when I potted up on this plant as it dries out way faster than the other plan, and it’s soil seems to be less absorbent than it’s sister.

Either way it seems I have a major issue here.

I will get proper pics tomorrow.

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Down to 67° is the coolest I’ve seen it get. I can toss a heater in there connected to the Inkbird to try and keep it right around 75° that will help with the other plant as well.

Hopefully I can get it turned around. Would hate to lose it this late in the game!
 
Soil was dry so I gave it a full gallon of ph’d water.
Good that you rehydrated the plant .
I would have followed it up with a feeding a few hours later.
She's probably cold and hungry.

I'm sure your FFoF is depleted by now. She'll need full feedings of MC to green her up....and warmth.

I believe that @Justin Goody is/was using FFoF with MC.

*** Justin,
You doing full strength feedings with MC in FFoF?***
 
Yes I am ph down to 6.3-6.4
If your water is similar to mine,you shouldn't have to mess around with the pH adjusters.
There should be plenty of buffers in your soil to take care of that.
I used to have a lot of issues when I started. Once I stopped pH adjusting 80% of my issues went away.

Mix up a gallon of MC and water and take a pH reading? Let's see how close you are before adjusters.
 
Good that you rehydrated the plant .
I would have followed it up with a feeding a few hours later.
She's probably cold and hungry.
well when the lights are on it’s closer to 80° - 83°. It’s only while their lights are off that it cools down. Either way I’ve added in heat control to the tent so if it gets below 70° the heater will kick on.
If your water is similar to mine,you shouldn't have to mess around with the pH adjusters.
There should be plenty of buffers in your soil to take care of that.
I used to have a lot of issues when I started. Once I stopped pH adjusting 80% of my issues went away.

Mix up a gallon of MC and water and take a pH reading? Let's see how close you are before adjusters.
Tap water ph: 7.63
Tap with nutes 7.23

And she is almost dry again. Will need water tomorrow. tap and then again later with nutes?
 
Tap water ph: 7.63
Tap with nutes 7.23

And she is dry again. Water now with tap and then again later with nutes?
How long between feedings is she going? 24 hrs?


Sorry. Might be a bunch of questions. I'm trouble shooting...
 
Good that you rehydrated the plant .
I would have followed it up with a feeding a few hours later.
She's probably cold and hungry.

I'm sure your FFoF is depleted by now. She'll need full feedings of MC to green her up....and warmth.

I believe that @Justin Goody is/was using FFoF with MC.

*** Justin,
You doing full strength feedings with MC in FFoF?***
I usually stay under 5.5 but yea full strength. FFOF is great for a few weeks on its own and then it needs MC fairly regularly.

That problem up above looks like what happened to my Ruby Tue plant. Originally I blamed it on overfeeding. Now I think it was pH lockout and she’s back to regular color and feedings with everyone else.
For me it’s DEFINITELY not cold cause that plant is in my living room tent.
I think the ultra bright light and ultra dry air don’t help in my case either. Some plants are just sensitive in different ways.
 
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