Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

I've been obsessing over supply websites for the last few days trying to piece together the right items. I'm sure my family wouldn't complain if they never heard "this site has x item for..." again!

Do you happen to have any tips for finding the right model number for the 3590s? Cutter is backordered and arrow has about 9 different options for each color but I can't quite figure out the difference other than price. Thank you for all the great info and for documenting this project.

Hoping I can do the same as I try to light this 5x9 tent. (Any thoughts on the number of cobs for that size tent would be welcomed! I was thinking 22-24?)
Yea man. Ill be on laptop and hook you up with what I can shortly...

In the meantime check out these rock hard nugs of Bloody skunk I just harvested 5 days ago from under my 25 cob panel...THESE CREES PERFORM.
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Sent from my android from outer space!
 
I've been obsessing over supply websites for the last few days trying to piece together the right items. I'm sure my family wouldn't complain if they never heard "this site has x item for..." again!

Do you happen to have any tips for finding the right model number for the 3590s? Cutter is backordered and arrow has about 9 different options for each color but I can't quite figure out the difference other than price. Thank you for all the great info and for documenting this project.
Hoping I can do the same as I try to light this 5x9 tent. (Any thoughts on the number of cobs for that size tent would be welcomed! I was thinking 22-24?)




OK
Not sure what color temp you are after but I will list some of the high bins per color temp.
Cutter should have best deals when back in stock on all of these.

3000k 80CRI is CB bin. Part number CXB3590-0000-000N0HCB30H 0
3500k 80CRI is CD bin. Part number CXB3590-0000-000N0HCD35H 15 in stock at arrow $66.22
4000k 70CRI is DB bin. Part number CXB3590-0000-000N0BDB40E 50 in stock at Mouser $54.92 or good dude at Cobkits 15 in @$46
5000k 70CRI is DB bin. Part number CXB3590-0000-000N0BDB50E 38 in Stock at arrow $38.85

Does that help?


PS
SEARCH GOOGLE FOR COUPON CODES FOR STORES LIKE ARROW!! YOU CAN ALWAYS FIND 5-15% YOUR ENTIRE ORDER!!!!















 
Hoping I can do the same as I try to light this 5x9 tent. (Any thoughts on the number of cobs for that size tent would be welcomed! I was thinking 22-24?)

In a 5X9 you have a ton of options. 1 tip I would give is that I really like how when I make my panels that I always center the cobs that will be around wall never more than 6" from wall to center of the cob. I see lots of guys that have their 1st cob over a foot off the wall. Par numbers will fall fast when you do that because as the plants grow the upper leafs will block the side of the plant from getting any light directly from the cob. It will only get reflected light off of the wall that way. By putting your cobs close to the wall (6" or less) you may feel it's a waste of a bunch of light but think about how much more of the plant will get DIRECT light. This keeps your par much more even from room end to room end.

So my advice would be to first plan your rows with the cobs closest to the walls to be 6" from the walls. Then depending on your bank acct and overall wants from your system we can go from there.

Is your room exactly 5X9? Is that the exact area you want to light up?

If so you could do 4X6 cobs for 24 cobs. You could run them somewhere around 60-65W each in flower or if you really want to be able to run them soft go 5X6 and run at roughly 48-52W each in flower or even 6X7 for 42 cobs at about 33-37W each in flower like mine!!

I want sketch your room out a bit on paper but 4X7 may be awesome! Let me know the exact dimensions of your lighted area.

Hope that helps some. Those are some "off the top of my head numbers but it should put you in the ballpark.

After you decide on how many then we can figure out what drivers you will need that will tune from 0 watts to way more than you will ever need to use lol.
 
Anyone wanna follow a cree cxb 3590 42 cob superpanel build?

In a 5X9 you have a ton of options. 1 tip I would give is that I really like how when I make my panels that I always center the cobs that will be around wall never more than 6" from wall to center of the cob. I see lots of guys that have their 1st cob over a foot off the wall. Par numbers will fall fast when you do that because as the plants grow the upper leafs will block the side of the plant from getting any light directly from the cob. It will only get reflected light off of the wall that way. By putting your cobs close to the wall (6" or less) you may feel it's a waste of a bunch of light but think about how much more of the plant will get DIRECT light. This keeps your par much more even from room end to room end.

So my advice would be to first plan your rows with the cobs closest to the walls to be 6" from the walls. Then depending on your bank acct and overall wants from your system we can go from there.

Is your room exactly 5X9? Is that the exact area you want to light up?

If so you could do 4X6 cobs for 24 cobs. You could run them somewhere around 60-65W each in flower or if you really want to be able to run them soft go 5X6 and run at roughly 48-52W each in flower or even 6X7 for 42 cobs at about 33-37W each in flower like mine!!

I want sketch your room out a bit on paper but 4X7 may be awesome! Let me know the exact dimensions of your lighted area.

Hope that helps some. Those are some "off the top of my head numbers but it should put you in the ballpark.

After you decide on how many then we can figure out what drivers you will need that will tune from 0 watts to way more than you will ever need to use lol.

Fantastic ideas there! Thank you! I have a 5x9 from gorilla grow tents on the way, as soon as I have some dimensions I'll post them here.

I've been crunching the numbers and it's looking like it may be just as cost effective to come up with some sort of combo from the timber kits. When I base it all on what's available from each supplier, the time that goes into assembly and the shipping, the diy starts to fall short. I really like the idea of the flexibility that's gained from assembling it all myself but I'm kind of on a time crunch as I'd like to move my 6 currently flowing plants under the cobs for the remainder. I contacted timber and they said they could combine the kits and wire the drivers to one plug. Another bonus is that they're already wired to dim so that cuts out another step and purchase. I was thinking about starting with one of the 300w 6 cob kits combined with the 250w 5 cob. At this point I suppose it wouldn't take much convincing for me to go for two of the 6 cob kits (what's another $200 among friends?!)

My initial plan is to use the 5x9 as a flower tent and keep a 4x4 for veg and another for mothers and clones. I have my current crop under 3 of the mars reflector 144. I'm thinking that eventually I'll try to sell those (at least two of them) and use cobs for maximum veg as well.

Again any thoughts are welcomed and appreciated! Thank you for all the information and feedback!
 
Anyone wanna follow a cree cxb 3590 42 cob superpanel build?

I should also add that I'm thinking about splitting things into two or 3 frames in the 5x9 for a bit more flexibility in the height of the lights. My plan is to have a perpetual flower tent. I currently have 6 going in a 4x4 (probably using 4x3.5 of that because of the light spread). My thought was to do crops of 4 plants, eventually 12 in the 5x9 when it's running all the way
 
I have a question to throw in here about drivers. How much % of your wattage do you use each driver? Is it a bad idea to go up to 90%?

Oh another thing with dimming. If you ad a analog dimmer on a meanwell dimmable 700-1400mA for example. What doea happen when you turn it all the way down? I saw growmau5 soldering a 10k resistor to the potentiometer to prevent it turning all the way down. Is it possible to go all the way down as the driver is at its lowest poimt at 700? I dont get it
 
I have a question to throw in here about drivers. How much % of your wattage do you use each driver? Is it a bad idea to go up to 90%?

Oh another thing with dimming. If you ad a analog dimmer on a meanwell dimmable 700-1400mA for example. What doea happen when you turn it all the way down? I saw growmau5 soldering a 10k resistor to the potentiometer to prevent it turning all the way down. Is it possible to go all the way down as the driver is at its lowest poimt at 700? I dont get it
You can use any % up to 100. I also find that the meanwell drivers are usually very slightly underrated . For instance there are 240 watt models usually will push 245 to 250 Watts when cranked up . Many drivers/power supplies or devices similar actually run easier and cooler at 100%. A lot of devices like drivers and power supplies of various types actually will warm up more running at lower percentages of their rated output because they are trying to hold back. Does that make sense? They need to dissipate the power they are producing . Dissipating it through the lights is obviously the best way . I have ran my drivers for long periods of time at about 20% load and it seems to me that they get just as warm there as they do running at 80 - 100%. Now as far as adding the analog dimmer or potentiometer goes. What happens when you turn it all the way down really depends on the exact driver you pick and the amount of cob chips in the array. But for the most part by turning the 100k potentiometer all the way down you will simply shut off the lights and the driver will draw no more than two to three Watts from the wall outlet basically going into a standby so to speak. I'm sure he added the resistor that he needed in his situation so that when he turned the dimmer all the way down the lights were barely at the point of turning on. Basically instead of the dinner going from 0% to 100% it would go from 1% to 100%.

Sent from my android from outer space!
 
This makes sense to me with the power draw heat thing. That energy has to find its way i guess. Thank you. For the dimming with a resistor he mentioned that this step is not needed, so i dont got whats wrong without the resistor, my english has its limits :/ i thought when the meanwell data sheet says current is dimmable between 50 and 100 percent there is no OFF possible by a poti. I dont really understand electrics enough and try to learn this stuff step by step on 420 thanks to guys like you. . .

Btw there will be 5xCobs@44Watts (CLU0481212 for 8 Bucks each) in a row on one Meanwell HLG240H-C1050B, 6 rows flower, 3 rows veg. So 660-1320w flower, 330-660veg for only 360 bucks for the chips themselves .
 
Sorry for sneaking in again, i have a question about these 2 heatsinks. They are both 4in x 6,5 in. I want to cool from 30 to 60 watt Single COB with them mounting that 120mm FAN on top.

Which one would you pick for that job?

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Sorry for sneaking in again, i have a question about these 2 heatsinks. They are both 4in x 6,5 in. I want to cool from 30 to 60 watt Single COB with them mounting that 120mm FAN on top.

Which one would you pick for that job?

Myself, I would go with the raw aluminum one. It appears to have much much more surface area with all of those lines cut into it. To be honest that MAY be enough for passive cooling. I would run at 25-25 watts for a bit without the fan and monitor temps. Warm, even pretty warm is just fine. If it stays say maybe 10-15 degrees above ambient temp after a half hour I would bump to 45w and do the same. That sink may work pretty darned good!
 
I have a european equivalent of a KillAWatt Meter and an Infrared - Thermometer.... So i guess i am good to go for a passive/active test

That aluminum heatsink in the picture is the quarter of the size of the mars 2 heatsinks for 300W (maybe 200 heatwatts if there is 33%efficiency?)

I will run the 4 CLU04812124000k80Cri dimmable, max 60 watts, maybe 30-35 heatwatts at 60, mostly use them at 30-40 watts. so hopefully only 14-20 heatwatts each cob cooled with a quarter. But i just wanted to know if i am cool enough for the 60 they are capable on my driver.

Do you think the black clumsy heatsink would do the job with active cooling with that F12@ 10Volts?
 
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Oh gees. Light is turning on. Dimmable from 20 to 138W. Isnt it bad to dimm a COB l the way down to about 10 watts, or is no undervolting possible with a Potentiometer and a 10k resistor? Anyways. Never seen such brightness. Its BRUTAL.

Last thing about the fans before i show you my temporary fixture. Which is positive, which ground? Yellow + black -? I am such a noob. :)

Edit: i am done. Its working like a charm. Wondering where to check on that cob Temperature and how hot is too hot
 
Just watch the temps of the sink for a bit with your infrared thermometer. Shoot the temps all around the sink but especially right behind the chip. If you see 100-115f your golden if it dont climb much more than that.

If its cooler thats awesome. If its hotter let me know how much. They run better cool. 110-115 isnt even warm for them.

My 25 cob panel runs at 92 degrees at the sinks.

Sent from my android from outer space!
 
The sinks are 26c and the chip on it is 115c... Not normal i guess

Wouldnt it be more acurate to actually compare the chips Temperatures than the heatsinks? If a chip is poorly connected the heatsink will stay cool and the chip is frying at the same time...

Just look for my thread 'my very first cob fixture' or something like that in the DIY section as well, rigjt below this thread. I made pictures from temps as well. Please reply.
 
Wouldnt it be more acurate to actually compare the chips Temperatures than the heatsinks? If a chip is poorly connected the heatsink will stay cool and the chip is frying at the same time...

.

Sure, if you can do it it would be a much better way.
 
So
I imagine you guys are ready for a bunch of pictures and even a youtube video on the firing up of "the beast"? I'm all set, many more pics to post and I can run a video rundown tonight too. All that's left to do is to carry all the cords and control box to the tent and hook it up.
It's been a long time coming and I'm glad it's over.

Once we do a video of the basic rundown I can do a seperate video of par/ppfd numbers. I can break out the Apogee MQ500 and do a video test on some par numbers at different heights and current settings.
 
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