@scarfinger, in the small first size pots that the seedlings are in these need watering more often so it dont really make much difference if you let the pots totally dry out between waterings, so in smaller pots id water as normal as the plant dont have a huge root mass, but when i transplant to the bigger pots im using i was normally watering every 4 or 5 days, but after watching strain hunters im letting them go longer, the plants dont look wilted or if they do start to look wilted then ill water them, but when i water im not watering as much as i used to water them, im watering them with about half what i was before so their is no run off at all, this seems to be working well, if you watch strain hunters kings kush you will see the method they use and that will give you some idea on what im doing with mine
@waknbak, if you water with jugs or a bottle then the water will just run through channels in the soil, as GiGa also found out this method blocks the air holes in the soil and causes the soil to bunch up as the water pushes it into the channels, this then stops oxygen getting to the roots and also means the water will run strait out the bottom of the pots, so its best to use a spray type bottle, you can get big bottles with a pump handle, the type gardeners use outdoors, their big and have a long wand with a spray nozzle at the end then you just pump the handle and when you press the button it sprays the water out evenly, if you just use jugs or bottles to water then it tends to just find the channels in the pot and runs strait out the bottom,
so their is a couple of options to stop this happening,
1, you can use a small spray bottle, the type you use to mist the plants or clones with, i use this and give the top layer of soil a good spray so that its all wet and then it starts to soak down into the rest of the soil, then if you use a jug and say water in 4 places on top of the soil then it tends to soak in much better and it stops it running strait out the bottom, using this method i have found i can water my plants much less as its not just running out the bottom its actually soaking into all the soil,
2, method 2 is something i have not tried but i have read about it in a few places, maybe another member can confirm this method, basically you can use a dish soap or washing up liquid type product, not exactly sure what type of product as the UK has lots of different washing up liquids and dish soaps, so wait for a response on this, anyways you mix some dish soap up with the water then when you water the plants it allows it to soak into the soil more, only use a small dose but let someone else who has used this method explain the process.
3, now this is another mehod i use, i use a 2ltr pop bottle and drill a few holes into the lid or into the neck of the bottle, then when i fill it with water i tip it upside down and give it a gentle squeeze and it then comes out the holes and waters the top layer of soil evenly which again allows it to soak into the soil much better,
before i used to just fill a 2ltr bottle up and pour it strain onto the top layer of soil, but within seconds it would run strain out the bottom then id have to wait a while for it to wick it back up, so now i dont just pour the water onto the soil i either spray it on or use a pop bottle with holes in it, then i water slowly which allows the soil to soak up the water, using this method i dont have any run off and the plants seem to benefit a whole lot more, what i really notice is how quick they grow just after i water, for a few days after i water the plants seem to grow like crazy, ive used a lot less nutrients and the plants in fresh soil have not had any nutrients and ive just flipped them to 12-12, so clearly a good watering technique really pays off and the plants really do benefit more from it
ill come and have a look at your journal now
@Spimp, your spot on with you auto info mate, you dont want to do anything at all to an auto, any stunting of growth will badly affect yield, lets say the auto you was growing was going to yield 14g, well if you lost a week or 2 of growth then your yields will be a couple of gm at the very most, so autos you cant do much with, you cant scrog them as some flower from week 2 and some flower from week 4 to 6, so if you used them under a scrog and they flowered early then you would end up with a smaller yield that if you let it grow as is.
the only auto training i do is some very minor lst, if the side branches are growing up towards the light and to close to other branches then i use some lst to pull the side branches down a bit so it opens them up and removes them from blocking the light to the rest of the plant, i sometimes also use some lst on the main stem and pull the plant over but only very slightly, i do this just to get the most light to all parts of the plant, now i dont normally defol autos but my dwc auto northern lights had huge fan leaves so the top set i took off as all the growth below it was not growing at all, so this clearly proves that the whole plant needs light to grow not just certain leaves, if i didnt defol then the top of the plant would be ok but the branches below would be tiny and produce very little, but after removing the 2 huge fan leaves i noticed that within 2 days the lower branches had kicked into life and all are now level with the top branch, the plant is much bushier now where as before it was skinny with very little side branch growth,
so the plant clearly done share the light between all parts of the plants, if the top leaves are getting light then the branches and leaves in the shade are not going to grow and the leaves will start to turn yellow, so the more light on more of the plant is what really pays off, but autos are really to be grown as they are, if they flower at week 2 or reach harvest in 50 to 60 days then its best not to do anything at all to them or if you do just use some minor lst or if you have to jut remove 1 or 2 leaves, dont do a heavy defol, certainly dont top or fim or use hst,
my autos was under 18-6 from seed and now ive flipped my grow room to 12-12 they will finish under 12-12, but both seem to be doing ok and seem to respond well to 18-6 schedule, im really starting to think that the less light hours you give it the longer it takes to grow and the more it produces,
so lets say an auto yields 14g dry under 24-0 and reaches harvest in 50 days,
im going on the idea that autos flower due to age in light hours and not age in days, if it was age in days then i would of got the same results under any lighting schedule, plus if they did flower and reach harvest due to age in days then under 24-0 they would just keep on growing as they would not know what a day is, but as autos flower under 24-0 it means they dont flower according to age in days as under 24-0 they would not know what a day is.
so when i was growing kc45 autos under 24-0 and 20-4 i was getting poor results, average would be between 7gdry and 14g dry at the very most, but when i grew them under 12-12 it took them 2 weeks longer to start flower so the plants was much bigger, it took just over 3 weeks longer to reach harvest as well, but the yield was much better, average yield was just over 2oz per plant and none produced less than 2oz, so i went from plants that reached harvest at less then 12inches high to plants under 12-12 reaching just over 3ft,
so clearly their is more going on with autos than we know, all the autos ive grown under 24-0 and 20-4 performed very poor and ive easily grown 20 auto strains, now we need to remember autos where bred to each harvest very quick, thats why their supposed to be grown in a sea of green type grow, so if you then just get 7g dry per plant but grow 100 plants then you going to get 700g of dry bud every 56 days, so thats a damn good harvest and look how many you can do a year, so breeders worked on producing autos that reach harvest as quick as possible but produce very little, so growing them under 24-0 and 20-4 makes them reach harvest much quicker but keeps the plants small so you can harvest more plants per year,
how ever most growers dont grow huge numbers of autos and as most european growers only grow 1 or 2 autos then this means the breeders are now working on auto strains that yield well, but you then have to have a longer grow time which i dont think is anything major as it still allows you to grow and harvest plants under a veg schedule, but i have found that you can have bigger yields if you give the plants a good dark period each day
its only the results im getting so not all auto strains will follow this rule, they may but ill do more testing to find out for sure,
but so far all the autos ive grown under 12-12 and 18-6 seems to produce very well, the autos i got growing now will easily yield an oz per auto, they was started under 18-6 and now their under 12-12, so it will be interesting to see how the growth is now their under 12-12, will they grow quicker under 12-12 or slow down, so this will be a good grow for me to see what the difference is,
its why im working on my own big yielding auto strain, ive been working on it for well over a year now and im getting consisten results of 2 to 3ft autos by back crossing the plants with plants grown from the first batch of seeds i produced, so what i do is ive got a tub or male auto pollen from a big male auto, then the seeds from each cross get grown out and the biggest female gets pollenated with the pollen from the big male auto, each batch of seeds produced has given me more consistant results and ive ended up with pretty big autos now form the seeds, so this last cross i made should be the last cross i need to make with that strain, so when i harvets this auto ill have lots of seeds, so then ill pick the biggest male and female and cross them with each other to hopefully give me a big yielding auto.
then i can run different lighting schedule tests, ill also order other auto strains and produce my own auto seeds, not new strains but more seeds of the strain i buy so i can also run tests with them, the gdp cheese auto ive produced will also be pollenated with the pollen from the big male depending on the results i get from the gdp cheese i got growing at the minute, so far my breeding seems to be going ok, but ill be making some coloidal silver for producing fem seeds as the rodilization method done produce much pollen,
i also just harvested the kerala x skunk plant that i used some fem sensi star pollen on and i got about 20 seeds all together, the kerala x skunk was the plant i had problems with so it didnt give the best results at harvest so these fem seeds should produce a nice plant, not a new strain i want to create but it gives me fem seeds for future grows and for gifting to grower friends.
if im blown away with the results then ill clear produce more fem seeds of that cross and if it does work well and produces well then i might keep it as a new strain, but for now their just fem seeds for future grows and for producing some nice bud, i dont have plans to use them to perfect a new strain as ive got to much going on with what im working on now,