Donpaul.p's Latest 400 Watt HPS Grow

DP.P, if/when you go DWC everything, will you be using a bubble cloner, or rockwool in a dome, or what? What's your game plan?
 
I got a g13 labs auto ak that just popped the soil and I'm going to run it under 12/12 to see how she does, I'll put a paradise seeds vertigo in when I harvest one of my current plants and run it 12/12 as well and then when the ak is done I have a critical+ automatic I'm going to do last. I hope I get a harvest once a month till I run out of autos.....then I'll hit up herbies.
 
I did an autobomb once started and finished under 12/12 was a shit yield less than 7 grams dried
my first 60 day wonder did 28 grams dried 18/12 for 3 weeks then 12/12 for the remainder
im gonna see whats the dry weight of my latest 60 day wonder soon
first one was under fouros this one was under led's for bloom but I think its a different phenotype cause I looks different and smells different but the height and the general growth pattern are the same
 
@Skybound, not to sure mate, if i go all out dwc then i wont use soil in the top part that holds the plant like i am now, soil works ok but if im just using dwc or maybe hydro then id prefer to use some other medium, really not 100% sure what ill do yet,

@waknbak88, keep us posted on how it does, at the minute ive got an auto northern lights growing under 18-6 in dwc and its getting pretty big now, its clearly a heavy indica auto and i dont normally defol autos but the top set of fan leaves was huge and was hiding everything below it so removed 2 fan leaves a few days ago and now the lower branches are growing like crazy and nearly as high as the top of the plant, so its doing really well under 18-6, once i get my seeds from my own kc45 auto pheno i can then run more tests on light schedules, ill also be using the gdp cheese auto for the same test to see how other strains respond to other scheedules, feel free to post any auto pics you like in my journal, the more info i can get the better,
also remember you can go 12-12 with regular seeds and most of the time you will end up with a pretty decent yield, 1/2oz per plant 12-12 from seed or ive seen plants hit 1oz per plant 12-12 from seed,

@chronic, i had an auto bomb and grew it under 24-0 and think i get less yield than you did, i think its in my first journal, you need to remember that some auto strains or at least the older auto strains was bred to reach harvest as quick as possible, so these where made for a sog style grow so you could grow 100 autos and harvest in 60 days and every 60 days, so even if you got 7g dry per plant than that still gives you 700g of dry bud every 60 days, which isnt to bad, so their are a hell of a lot of autos strains out their that will always yield poorly due to their breeding, if their bred for speed and have more ruderalis in them then yields will be poor under any light schedule,
its why im working on pheno types with autos now, im trying to produce a big yielding kc45 auto as it produces nice bud, so far im a good few generations in now and only crossed the biggest male and female each time and the seeds then grow and i use the pollen from the previous big male to cross with each batch of new seeds, each time my results have got better and better and hopefully this next batch of seeds will produce a very nice yielding kc45 under any lighting schedule,

when i first grew kc45 autos i grew them under 20-4 and 24-0 and get less than 10 to 14g dry per plant every time i grew a plant, then my hps was on flower schedule so planted another couple expecting poor results, but i was shocked and ended up with a 3ft plant that produced just over 2oz dry per plant, which shocked me as i was always told 24-0 was the best schedule to use, but every time i grow under 12-12 the autos seem to produce well,
so once i harvest the next kc45 auto i should have a few hundred auto seeds, so these will be used to test that strain under all lighting schedules then i can see what the results say for each schedule, the gdp cheese auto straim im working on will also be grown under same test conditions so i can compare results,

ive grown probably 20 to 30 auto strains and the one thats yielded the most is the kc45 which is £1 per seed from herbies, its the cheapest auto to buy and its always yielded me a lot more than any other auto strain, their are big yielding autos out their like big bang auto which yields 4oz per plant dry but not tried it myself, but most strains ive tried have produced less than 14g dry per plant and its why im trying to produce a big yielding kc45 strain and the gdp cheese auto will also be a big yielding strain.

ive got 2 autos growing now under 18-6, the auto bubble and its in flower and ill be very lucky to get 10 to 15g dry at harvest, then ive got the auto northern lights in the 2ltr dwc and that should easily give me well over an oz dry at harvest, autos are now been bred to yield more as growers dont always want to grow sog and just buy 1 or 2 auto seeds, so more breedings is been done to produce big yielding autos, 5 to 10g dry per auto is ideal for sog and a quick harvest, but we dont all do sog and growing just 1 or 2 autos that produce very little is just not worth the time or effort considering you can go 12-12 from seed with photo and easily hit 14g dry plus per plant
 
right just a quick update on my plants,

after watching the strain hunters videos i decided to let my plants go bone dry between watering, before i would pretty much water every 5 days ish or when the soil was dry a few inches down, this time i decided to let the plants go much longer with no water, my soil gets dry all the way down and pots are very very light before i water, this method seems to be really paying off, my plants are getting huge and ive never had plants that grow this quick before, the ww x sk#1 is growing as quick as any dwc grown plant, i always favoured the dwc as the quickest way to grow but this ww x sk#1 is outgrowing the dwc plant by loads and i know for a fact that the ww x sk would easily fill half my grow room so ill take clones and if the bud is as nice as im told it is then ill do a grow with just that strain then grow my project strains in another grow space, ive never seen a strain grow this quick before, its either got some very good genetics or something else is going on which is giving it this crazy growth, the fan leaves are huge, nearly twice the size of a dinner plate, its never had any nutrients since i planted it, its still a very nice shade of dark green with no signs of stress, but it was in fresh soil so should be ok till it starts flowering then ill start the nutes unless it shows it needs it before,

i honestly think letting the pots go bone dry is whats giving me this aggresive growth, even strains ive grown before have never grown this quick, i let the pots totally dry out then make them wait another 24 hours before watering, then i dont water for 7 to 10 days depending on temps and how the plants look, i was always told to not let the soil get totally bone dry but let it dry out so its nearly dry then water again, but this time ive let them totally dry out and i think the plants are so much healthier for it, ive now flipped the lights to 12-12 to flower them off as all plants are showing sex, the male gdp cheese will be flowered also and pollen collected, they will stay in the flower room until i think the pollen sacs are ready to open then they will go in a room with natural light and pollen collected when its produced,

im going to flower these off and just keep clones growing under cfls while i flower these off and decide what im going to do with my next grow, if im happy with results this time round i may go one more grow with soil but if its not a good harvest then ill flip to hydro or dwc, but the diferrence in growth this time round is shocking, looks like these plants prefer very little water or prefer watering less often, i know im not over watering or wasnt over watering but i wasnt letting the pots stay this dry this long.

so cant wait to see how this harvest goes from now, the stretch phase will tell me a lot with this watering method so ill know more in about 21 days, but so far they certainly prefer a lot less water and less often, im watering with no run off at all, ive not needed to use nutrients as soon, before plants would start to show sings of lack of N lower down the plant like my dwc auto did a few weeks back, but the soil plants in fresh soil have not had anything apart from water, i think watering without run off has kept the soil more alive and this has helped the plants more, something really seems to be working this time round. lets just hope it carries on as it is,

ive got a new contract phone now so should be able to take some half decent pics, so ill have a play around with the phone tomorrow and see if the pics turn out ok
 
a good 2 toke tuesday to all,

oh the jack flash i got in flower is starting to smell like the jack flash i want it to be, its been in flower for a while now but only really started to smell, ill give it a couple more weeks then ill take clones from it and reveg, then if the buds smell as nice at harvest then ill keep the clones alive and reveg for future grows and produce some jack flash fem seeds.

the big buddha cheese is in the room that was flipped 12-12 today so hopefully ill know more about that as it starts flowering, id say the stinkiest plant ive got in the hps room is the gdp cross i made, for some reason all the ken estes gdp cross purple cheese auto stink, now ive never had a female gdp so cant say if its from that or if its from the purple cheese side of the cross, but what ever it is it stinks the place out and has done for a couple of weeks now, so should be interesting in flower, i have got 1 gdp cheese auto female in the hps room and possibly 2 gpd cheese male autos but not 100% on that but i know the one is gdp cheese male auto as its got pollen sacs so that will be put on the female to give me gdp cheese auto seeds for working with pheno types,

so this harvest is going to be interesting as ill get to sample the jack flash, i put the flash into 12-12 really early as its an 11week flowering period so didnt want to grow it long in veg to find out its going to be a poor sativa smoke when its done so cant wait to try that, the big buddha cheese and my own gdp cheese is the next strains i cant wait to try,

so this time round either i got everything dialed in to perfection or the lack of water is really making these plants grow, id say i have the room dialed in but nothing has changed and im not feeding nutrients to most the plants, the only ones getting nutrients are the dwc, mazar x white rhino which looks like a very nice plant, its getting big but the leaves are really small for some reason, then gdp plants, the rest are getting no nutrients at all, they usually look like they need nutrients after about week 4 to 5 of growth but these just keep on looking great, so im thinking watering less often is stopping the plant using the nutrients so quick and maybe this is forcing the roots to grow much further to find water and this then lets the plant grow faster as the more roots its got the more it can take in.

the rapid growth seems to happen just after watering, say i dont water for 8 or 9 days then i water the plants then for the next 2 or 3 days the plants grow like crazy, i dont let the plants wilt and look under watered but you can tell when their starting to get thirsty without letting them go to far and wilting, so im keeping them in the limits of wilting and growth seems to be pretty damn shocking,

peace
 
That WW X Skunk sounds like a really nice one, I can't wait to grow one myself. Those are some big ass fans on that plant, very beautiful, can't wait to see what it will yield, especially with the changes you have made with the watering routine. I'm going to do the same with my current soil plant, if it works like the video it will be a good one. That plant was also started under 18/6, so it's growing a little slower, but I bet the roots will benefit more from the dark period. Good to see you on here dp, good weed my friend.
 
ive just been a bit busy over the weekend so not been on here as much but back to normal now so just getting caught up with journals,

this watering method is really paying off, i would say its because i got everything else spot on but even the plants not getting nutrients are growing like crazy so the only difference is how often i water, im giving them a lot less each time i water and im letting them go longer between watering, the growth is pretty shocking, ill either do a vid tomorrow or take some pics and you can see what i mean, this time is the quickest ive had plants growing.

when the test was done the 3 schedules they used for root growth was 18-6,20-4 and 24-0, the one with the most roots was the 18-6, 20-4 and 24-0 had no where near as much roots, but yep ok we are not growing roots, but to me if a plants got more roots then it can support a much bigger plant and help feed the plant a lot quicker, ive not tried using 18-6 for 4 or 5 weeks then going to 24-0 to see what happens, i think that would be an interesting test to do, but i grow autos and i know that 24-0 is not the best schedule and neither is 20-4, i wont be using them for autos after the results ive been getting under them schedules with all the auto strains ive grown, maybe its just the strains ive grown but i find i get better results with autos using 12-12 or at the most 18-6, but i cant say all autos will respond the same but i was fed up of getting silly yields of 7g to 10g per auto since changing to 12-12 or 18-6 ive got better results, the last schedule i used was 17-7 and that also seemed a good schedule to use for autos and photo plants,

id love to have the room to run some serious testing, if i had the cash id move country and get some real test set up with sterile conditions, i just cant grow enough plants to run side by side lighting tests or anything else i want to do, if i had the chance id have 3 veg room and 1 big flower room, then i can run what ever tests i like and would have more stable results, growing under 1 schedule 1 grow and then waiting till the next grow to try something else just takes to long, if i could run 3 rooms at the same time then i could run side by side tests from day to 12-12,

but until the laws change im stuck with the methods im using, theirs a hell of a lot id like to try and test but without the room or the law on my side its just not possible, maybe some time in the future ill get the chance to run with my ideas and turn into the mad scientist, but till then i can only do 1 grow at a time.

i know the watering method im now using is really allowing these plants to grow a whole lot quicker, i wasnt over watering the plants in previous grows i was following normal watering methods and let the pots dry out as normal before watering but i never let them go a couple of days past the dry stage, but it seems to be really paying off, when i water my pots are that light the plant is actually heavier than the soil and the pot, thats how dry im letting the pots get, what im most amazed about is the lack of nutrients needed, even though the plants have got bigger quicker ive not needed to give nutrients and they still look ok, some of the plants needed nutreins so they got it and their growing just as quick, so its all to do with the watering at the minute,
 
i let the pots totally dry out then make them wait another 24 hours before watering, then i dont water for 7 to 10 days depending on temps and how the plants look,

So how do they look before watering? I go 2 days between waterings and when they are growing the pots are light. Once in a while they will look slightly wilted. When they slow down the pots are heavier in the same 2 day period.

Letting them go bone dry? I imagine a plant with its leaves straight down begging for water? I am guessing they aren't that thirsty? Or are they?
 
I got the auto ak above dirt I'll keep you posted on how it does on 12/12........about watering, I like to wait till dry as well and the only problem I have with this is how long it taks me to wAter next time because when the soil is dry all my water runs to the side, so I just started sticking my finger in the dirt to my second knuckle and I slowly pour the water in the hole and let it soak it up.
 
Hey man I got some new pics up and if you get a free min I got some kind of deficiency or something going on. I am not going to panic yet as I can't really do nothing until they dry out a little but would like to start getting a game plan together for when I can try to remedy. Thanks man and hope all is well your way!
 
I know you like auto data so heres something I just had happen.

I way overwatered two autos and stunted them into 2" plants. After 2+weeks of being the same size and me babying them, the first sign of new growth was pistols. :straightface: They dont even have branches at the nodes, barely even any leaves at nodes, but the 1/2cm they grew was to produce flowers. I had hoped that when and If they recovered they would still veg for a week or two but that hope is lost. For future reference if I ever mess up another (im sure I will), its straight into the compost with her. It is not worth the light or time to try to salvage them.
This is not all conclusive as my problem was pretty severe, and Ill finish them just to see what happens, but the old addage has rung true-- Lost time with an auto is a lost auto.
Good weed btw sir.
 
@scarfinger, in the small first size pots that the seedlings are in these need watering more often so it dont really make much difference if you let the pots totally dry out between waterings, so in smaller pots id water as normal as the plant dont have a huge root mass, but when i transplant to the bigger pots im using i was normally watering every 4 or 5 days, but after watching strain hunters im letting them go longer, the plants dont look wilted or if they do start to look wilted then ill water them, but when i water im not watering as much as i used to water them, im watering them with about half what i was before so their is no run off at all, this seems to be working well, if you watch strain hunters kings kush you will see the method they use and that will give you some idea on what im doing with mine

@waknbak, if you water with jugs or a bottle then the water will just run through channels in the soil, as GiGa also found out this method blocks the air holes in the soil and causes the soil to bunch up as the water pushes it into the channels, this then stops oxygen getting to the roots and also means the water will run strait out the bottom of the pots, so its best to use a spray type bottle, you can get big bottles with a pump handle, the type gardeners use outdoors, their big and have a long wand with a spray nozzle at the end then you just pump the handle and when you press the button it sprays the water out evenly, if you just use jugs or bottles to water then it tends to just find the channels in the pot and runs strait out the bottom,
so their is a couple of options to stop this happening,
1, you can use a small spray bottle, the type you use to mist the plants or clones with, i use this and give the top layer of soil a good spray so that its all wet and then it starts to soak down into the rest of the soil, then if you use a jug and say water in 4 places on top of the soil then it tends to soak in much better and it stops it running strait out the bottom, using this method i have found i can water my plants much less as its not just running out the bottom its actually soaking into all the soil,
2, method 2 is something i have not tried but i have read about it in a few places, maybe another member can confirm this method, basically you can use a dish soap or washing up liquid type product, not exactly sure what type of product as the UK has lots of different washing up liquids and dish soaps, so wait for a response on this, anyways you mix some dish soap up with the water then when you water the plants it allows it to soak into the soil more, only use a small dose but let someone else who has used this method explain the process.
3, now this is another mehod i use, i use a 2ltr pop bottle and drill a few holes into the lid or into the neck of the bottle, then when i fill it with water i tip it upside down and give it a gentle squeeze and it then comes out the holes and waters the top layer of soil evenly which again allows it to soak into the soil much better,

before i used to just fill a 2ltr bottle up and pour it strain onto the top layer of soil, but within seconds it would run strain out the bottom then id have to wait a while for it to wick it back up, so now i dont just pour the water onto the soil i either spray it on or use a pop bottle with holes in it, then i water slowly which allows the soil to soak up the water, using this method i dont have any run off and the plants seem to benefit a whole lot more, what i really notice is how quick they grow just after i water, for a few days after i water the plants seem to grow like crazy, ive used a lot less nutrients and the plants in fresh soil have not had any nutrients and ive just flipped them to 12-12, so clearly a good watering technique really pays off and the plants really do benefit more from it
ill come and have a look at your journal now

@Spimp, your spot on with you auto info mate, you dont want to do anything at all to an auto, any stunting of growth will badly affect yield, lets say the auto you was growing was going to yield 14g, well if you lost a week or 2 of growth then your yields will be a couple of gm at the very most, so autos you cant do much with, you cant scrog them as some flower from week 2 and some flower from week 4 to 6, so if you used them under a scrog and they flowered early then you would end up with a smaller yield that if you let it grow as is.

the only auto training i do is some very minor lst, if the side branches are growing up towards the light and to close to other branches then i use some lst to pull the side branches down a bit so it opens them up and removes them from blocking the light to the rest of the plant, i sometimes also use some lst on the main stem and pull the plant over but only very slightly, i do this just to get the most light to all parts of the plant, now i dont normally defol autos but my dwc auto northern lights had huge fan leaves so the top set i took off as all the growth below it was not growing at all, so this clearly proves that the whole plant needs light to grow not just certain leaves, if i didnt defol then the top of the plant would be ok but the branches below would be tiny and produce very little, but after removing the 2 huge fan leaves i noticed that within 2 days the lower branches had kicked into life and all are now level with the top branch, the plant is much bushier now where as before it was skinny with very little side branch growth,

so the plant clearly done share the light between all parts of the plants, if the top leaves are getting light then the branches and leaves in the shade are not going to grow and the leaves will start to turn yellow, so the more light on more of the plant is what really pays off, but autos are really to be grown as they are, if they flower at week 2 or reach harvest in 50 to 60 days then its best not to do anything at all to them or if you do just use some minor lst or if you have to jut remove 1 or 2 leaves, dont do a heavy defol, certainly dont top or fim or use hst,

my autos was under 18-6 from seed and now ive flipped my grow room to 12-12 they will finish under 12-12, but both seem to be doing ok and seem to respond well to 18-6 schedule, im really starting to think that the less light hours you give it the longer it takes to grow and the more it produces,

so lets say an auto yields 14g dry under 24-0 and reaches harvest in 50 days,
im going on the idea that autos flower due to age in light hours and not age in days, if it was age in days then i would of got the same results under any lighting schedule, plus if they did flower and reach harvest due to age in days then under 24-0 they would just keep on growing as they would not know what a day is, but as autos flower under 24-0 it means they dont flower according to age in days as under 24-0 they would not know what a day is.

so when i was growing kc45 autos under 24-0 and 20-4 i was getting poor results, average would be between 7gdry and 14g dry at the very most, but when i grew them under 12-12 it took them 2 weeks longer to start flower so the plants was much bigger, it took just over 3 weeks longer to reach harvest as well, but the yield was much better, average yield was just over 2oz per plant and none produced less than 2oz, so i went from plants that reached harvest at less then 12inches high to plants under 12-12 reaching just over 3ft,

so clearly their is more going on with autos than we know, all the autos ive grown under 24-0 and 20-4 performed very poor and ive easily grown 20 auto strains, now we need to remember autos where bred to each harvest very quick, thats why their supposed to be grown in a sea of green type grow, so if you then just get 7g dry per plant but grow 100 plants then you going to get 700g of dry bud every 56 days, so thats a damn good harvest and look how many you can do a year, so breeders worked on producing autos that reach harvest as quick as possible but produce very little, so growing them under 24-0 and 20-4 makes them reach harvest much quicker but keeps the plants small so you can harvest more plants per year,

how ever most growers dont grow huge numbers of autos and as most european growers only grow 1 or 2 autos then this means the breeders are now working on auto strains that yield well, but you then have to have a longer grow time which i dont think is anything major as it still allows you to grow and harvest plants under a veg schedule, but i have found that you can have bigger yields if you give the plants a good dark period each day
its only the results im getting so not all auto strains will follow this rule, they may but ill do more testing to find out for sure,
but so far all the autos ive grown under 12-12 and 18-6 seems to produce very well, the autos i got growing now will easily yield an oz per auto, they was started under 18-6 and now their under 12-12, so it will be interesting to see how the growth is now their under 12-12, will they grow quicker under 12-12 or slow down, so this will be a good grow for me to see what the difference is,

its why im working on my own big yielding auto strain, ive been working on it for well over a year now and im getting consisten results of 2 to 3ft autos by back crossing the plants with plants grown from the first batch of seeds i produced, so what i do is ive got a tub or male auto pollen from a big male auto, then the seeds from each cross get grown out and the biggest female gets pollenated with the pollen from the big male auto, each batch of seeds produced has given me more consistant results and ive ended up with pretty big autos now form the seeds, so this last cross i made should be the last cross i need to make with that strain, so when i harvets this auto ill have lots of seeds, so then ill pick the biggest male and female and cross them with each other to hopefully give me a big yielding auto.

then i can run different lighting schedule tests, ill also order other auto strains and produce my own auto seeds, not new strains but more seeds of the strain i buy so i can also run tests with them, the gdp cheese auto ive produced will also be pollenated with the pollen from the big male depending on the results i get from the gdp cheese i got growing at the minute, so far my breeding seems to be going ok, but ill be making some coloidal silver for producing fem seeds as the rodilization method done produce much pollen,

i also just harvested the kerala x skunk plant that i used some fem sensi star pollen on and i got about 20 seeds all together, the kerala x skunk was the plant i had problems with so it didnt give the best results at harvest so these fem seeds should produce a nice plant, not a new strain i want to create but it gives me fem seeds for future grows and for gifting to grower friends.

if im blown away with the results then ill clear produce more fem seeds of that cross and if it does work well and produces well then i might keep it as a new strain, but for now their just fem seeds for future grows and for producing some nice bud, i dont have plans to use them to perfect a new strain as ive got to much going on with what im working on now,
 
sorry about the long post, i dont mean to keep doing it but i type way to quick and it dont sound like a lot to me but then when i press send i have authors contacting me asking me if ill be releasing it as a book,

ill try and keep them shorter.

right im just after some info from anyone who can help,
its about the contests, as you all know i won motm for august and light addict won one of the other contests, now neither of us have received any prizes yet and we have not heard anything from the sponsors, as you have read in the contests some people have to pay for postage, so im trying to find out if anyone else has had to pay and if so how long was it before the sponsors contact you about the prizes and how long was it before you received the prizes,

im just a bit concerned as i gave my details ages ago and was told they had been given to the sponsors, but i could understand if just 1 sponsor had not contacted us or even if only 1 had contaced us then i know they had got our info, but ive not heard anything from any sponsors, my contact details was passed over to them a while back and ive still not heard nothing, not heard nothing about the nug jar either as im waiting to put my best bud in that jar, but cant do anything as ive not heard or received anything.
the other reason im concerned i the current contest is over soon so the sponsors will be sending out more prizes in one go.

also how long does it take for US members to get their prizes and nug jar, did the sponsors contact you before sending the prizes out or did you just get the prizes with no contact from the sponsors, its just im really keen to get my hands on the products so i can try them and rite a review, as im sure you all notice i do promote the sponsors a lot like herbies due to the service i get and quality, so getting the chance to try these products helps me decide what i want to use in the future, my main problem is the postage to me is usually more than the price of the product so these prizes will let me know if its worth the postage, im pretty sure it is and im sure the products work well, if they do then ill keep on buying them, so ive not purchased any nutrients due to one of the prizes been nutrients, so the sooner i can get them the better,

so basically i want to find out if anyone outside the US has won prizes and if they have how long was it before the sponsors contacted you and roughly how much was posted, then how long was it before you get the products,

for members inside the US did the sponsors contact you after you won the contest or did you just receive the products, if you just received the products then how long was it before you got them, i know the sponsors and mods are really busy but my details was passed to the sponsors a while back and ive not heard anything from 1 of them,
 
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