Donpaul.p's Latest 400 Watt HPS Grow
- Thread starter donpaul.p
- Start date
DP you perv you stripped that girl down to her bday suit!
miwa
New Member
shes cooler with no clothes on..Good Weednesday DP..
Harley001
New Member
I'm still here DP waitin on the naked lady
- Thread starter
- #485
go back a page, the naked lady is their,
mollases im sure we cant get here, ill try and get some off the net, the only info i found last time i looked is mollases is the same as the uk's syrup, but i could be wrong, let me see what i can find out, if i have to ill order some off the net.
lets hope she fattens up and benefits from the trim i gave her,
just got to wait and see how she turns out now, i could of made a huge mistake or it could really pay off, i wont see nothing change for a few days to a week but after the shock she should bounce back and fatten up for harvest.
when the 2ltr dwc is done ill run an auto through it and see how they do in a dwc, i can control the nutes more in dwc so can push it as much as i can, in soil you have to wait to see a change but dwc it should show problems pretty quick which hopefully means i can water down the nutrients if its a bit hot,
the auto bubble is growing well now, it only popped out the soil yesterday and its stem is over an inch all ready and the first set of true leaves of now growing so lets hope she gets nice and big.
@Dharma, my 400 watt is about 1ft above the plants but if you can have fans blowing across the canopy then you can lower it a few more inches, the plants will tell you their to hot as the edges of the leaves will start to curl up and form a shallow cup as their trying to lose moisture to cool down, so if temps get to high the plants will show you, but i find 1ft above the plants is about as close as i can get unless i got a big fan running across the plants, but mines not a air cooled hood its just the open bat wing type hood,
ill pm you when i get back to mine.
mollases im sure we cant get here, ill try and get some off the net, the only info i found last time i looked is mollases is the same as the uk's syrup, but i could be wrong, let me see what i can find out, if i have to ill order some off the net.
lets hope she fattens up and benefits from the trim i gave her,
just got to wait and see how she turns out now, i could of made a huge mistake or it could really pay off, i wont see nothing change for a few days to a week but after the shock she should bounce back and fatten up for harvest.
when the 2ltr dwc is done ill run an auto through it and see how they do in a dwc, i can control the nutes more in dwc so can push it as much as i can, in soil you have to wait to see a change but dwc it should show problems pretty quick which hopefully means i can water down the nutrients if its a bit hot,
the auto bubble is growing well now, it only popped out the soil yesterday and its stem is over an inch all ready and the first set of true leaves of now growing so lets hope she gets nice and big.
@Dharma, my 400 watt is about 1ft above the plants but if you can have fans blowing across the canopy then you can lower it a few more inches, the plants will tell you their to hot as the edges of the leaves will start to curl up and form a shallow cup as their trying to lose moisture to cool down, so if temps get to high the plants will show you, but i find 1ft above the plants is about as close as i can get unless i got a big fan running across the plants, but mines not a air cooled hood its just the open bat wing type hood,
ill pm you when i get back to mine.
- Thread starter
- #486
this is what the net says about mollases
Molasses (American English) or treacle (British English) is a viscous by-product of the refining of sugarcane, grapes, or sugar beets into sugar. The word comes ...
so where i am its called treacle or syrup depending on the brand, what kind of doses should i be using and how do i mix it, does it dilute in water or does it need warm water to dilute it,
can it be used in dwc as well as soil
Molasses (American English) or treacle (British English) is a viscous by-product of the refining of sugarcane, grapes, or sugar beets into sugar. The word comes ...
so where i am its called treacle or syrup depending on the brand, what kind of doses should i be using and how do i mix it, does it dilute in water or does it need warm water to dilute it,
can it be used in dwc as well as soil
- Thread starter
- #488
some more info i found, seems their are 3 different types of molasses
The technical difference between “treacle” and “Molasses” is that molasses is obtained from the drainings of raw sugar during the refining process and treacle is made from the syrup obtained from the sugar. They are not the same, to complicate things there are 3 grades of molasses, blackstrap is the one you want. Compare some organic blackstrap molasses to treacle and not only do they differ in colour and consistency but also taste.
Blackstrap molasses unlike Treacle (which is Dark Molasses, Light Molasses is Golden Syrup) is much less sucrose left and just all the nutrition from the cane juice, concentrated, per tbsp is 4.5 mg of useable iron as well as Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Vitamin B Complex, Chromium and other minerals, manganese, copper, and selenium. Organic is preferred as this often has a white/paler layer on top of active yeast which when added to the soil really wakes it up and gets it working.
Sure Treacle is easier to find but thats just because not many of us venture into Holland & Barrett or similar health food shops maybe lol?
so sounds like i need to go to holland and barret to get molasses, i know stores dont sell it, i got a big tin of treacle and a big tin of golden syrup, but unless i know for sure i can use it i wont,
ill try and get some black strap molasses, sounds like thats the one i need to get, not sure what it means about their been 3 different types,
The technical difference between “treacle” and “Molasses” is that molasses is obtained from the drainings of raw sugar during the refining process and treacle is made from the syrup obtained from the sugar. They are not the same, to complicate things there are 3 grades of molasses, blackstrap is the one you want. Compare some organic blackstrap molasses to treacle and not only do they differ in colour and consistency but also taste.
Blackstrap molasses unlike Treacle (which is Dark Molasses, Light Molasses is Golden Syrup) is much less sucrose left and just all the nutrition from the cane juice, concentrated, per tbsp is 4.5 mg of useable iron as well as Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Vitamin B Complex, Chromium and other minerals, manganese, copper, and selenium. Organic is preferred as this often has a white/paler layer on top of active yeast which when added to the soil really wakes it up and gets it working.
Sure Treacle is easier to find but thats just because not many of us venture into Holland & Barrett or similar health food shops maybe lol?
so sounds like i need to go to holland and barret to get molasses, i know stores dont sell it, i got a big tin of treacle and a big tin of golden syrup, but unless i know for sure i can use it i wont,
ill try and get some black strap molasses, sounds like thats the one i need to get, not sure what it means about their been 3 different types,
- Thread starter
- #490
some technical info for those interested,
There are three major types of sugar cane molasses: unsulphured, sulphured and blackstrap. There are also three major grades of cane molasses: first molasses, second molasses, and blackstrap molasses.Organic Molasses
Molasses
When sugar cane is harvested, the leaves are stripped, the juice extracted by crushing or mashing, and then boiled and processed to extract the sugar. The results of the first boiling and processing is first molasses � this has the highest sugar content. The results of the second boiling is second molasses. Second molasses is darker in colour and has a slightly bitter taste. Black strap molasses is from the third boiling.
Unsulphured molasses is the finest quality first molasses and is made from the juice of sun-ripened cane and the juice is clarified and concentrated. Sulphured molasses is made from green sugar cane that has not matured long enough and is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process.
There are a number of different types and sources of molasses and some have already had the maximum amount of sugar removed and will therefore not be sweet. There are two main types of organic molasses: HTM (High Test Mollases) and Black Strap Molasses.
HTM is a sweet syrup with a high brix content of 80-84 percent. [Brix is a term originally used for pure sucrose solutions to indicate the percentage of sucrose in the solution on a weight basis. Molasses contains, glucose, fructose, raffinose and numerous non-sugar organic materials, as well as sucrose. Therefore the Brix value for molasses will often differ dramatically from actual sugar or total solid content. It really represents specific gravity.] The high-test molasses is a heavy, partially inverted cane syrup (no sugar removed), however molasses is a term generally used to designate material from which sugar has been removed.Organic Sugar Cane used for production of Molasses
Sugar Cane
Organic Blackstrap molasses has a rich, full bodied flavour that adds natural colour to food. It is the end product, or by-product, of the production of sugar and contains vitamins, minerals and trace elements naturally found in the sugar cane plant and is a good source of iron, vitamin B6, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Because it is an end-product all the ingredients, residues, and toxins in the plant can be concentrated in the molasses. For this reason it is important to purchase organic molasses.
There are three major types of sugar cane molasses: unsulphured, sulphured and blackstrap. There are also three major grades of cane molasses: first molasses, second molasses, and blackstrap molasses.Organic Molasses
Molasses
When sugar cane is harvested, the leaves are stripped, the juice extracted by crushing or mashing, and then boiled and processed to extract the sugar. The results of the first boiling and processing is first molasses � this has the highest sugar content. The results of the second boiling is second molasses. Second molasses is darker in colour and has a slightly bitter taste. Black strap molasses is from the third boiling.
Unsulphured molasses is the finest quality first molasses and is made from the juice of sun-ripened cane and the juice is clarified and concentrated. Sulphured molasses is made from green sugar cane that has not matured long enough and is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process.
There are a number of different types and sources of molasses and some have already had the maximum amount of sugar removed and will therefore not be sweet. There are two main types of organic molasses: HTM (High Test Mollases) and Black Strap Molasses.
HTM is a sweet syrup with a high brix content of 80-84 percent. [Brix is a term originally used for pure sucrose solutions to indicate the percentage of sucrose in the solution on a weight basis. Molasses contains, glucose, fructose, raffinose and numerous non-sugar organic materials, as well as sucrose. Therefore the Brix value for molasses will often differ dramatically from actual sugar or total solid content. It really represents specific gravity.] The high-test molasses is a heavy, partially inverted cane syrup (no sugar removed), however molasses is a term generally used to designate material from which sugar has been removed.Organic Sugar Cane used for production of Molasses
Sugar Cane
Organic Blackstrap molasses has a rich, full bodied flavour that adds natural colour to food. It is the end product, or by-product, of the production of sugar and contains vitamins, minerals and trace elements naturally found in the sugar cane plant and is a good source of iron, vitamin B6, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Because it is an end-product all the ingredients, residues, and toxins in the plant can be concentrated in the molasses. For this reason it is important to purchase organic molasses.
- Thread starter
- #491
just posted that in my last post, we must of posted at the same time,
- Thread starter
- #492
seems i need to get the black strap molasses, ill try the health store the weekend and see if i can pick some up,
with molasses it can be added at one teaspoon to 2 tablespoons per gallon. during flowering it is common to use 1 table spoon per gallon and during final flushing it can be added at 2 tablespoons per gallon. you will have to either shake or stir it until it is dissolved, it can be combined with a small amount of warm water to more easily mix it.
- Thread starter
- #495
from time to time ive watered my plants with regular brown sugar as it feeds the microbes in the soil which helps the plants take up nutrients a bit quicker, but i only do this once every 6 weeks, it seems that molasses goes a bit further and feeds the plants and not just the soil microbes.
i do notice a difference in the plants when i use sugar but i think thats more to do with the microbes having a nice sugar rush every few weeks, so molasses clearly benefits the plants due to the plants using that the molasses provides,
here is the info on the sugar
Sugar is OK, but what you need is molasses! Sugar will feed the beneficial fungi and bacteria in your soil, which in turn help your plants absorb their nutrients. Molasses goes one step further- it provides minerals, too. You will want the darker kind of molasses, not the light. Darker means more good stuff in it. I use one tablespoon per gallon of water, deep into flowering I sometimes use 2. If your plant is a sativa (tall, with skinny leaves), it may not help- some of them just have fluffy buds. Try running a search on molasses here and you will start using it
so ill try and pick some molasses up the weekend and give it a try, ive read different guide some say use it through the whole grow, others say use it for the last few weeks of flower and another says use it as foliar feed.
reps for the info king, i think the warm water is the best option then add that to the cold water before watering the plants, its how i feed the sugar as adding brown unbleached sugar to water just dont make it disolve so i use a small cup and put a tea spoon of sugar in and add some warm water, then add that to the cold water, it does give my plants a small boost as i can notice the difference, not sure i would do it to often as it can encourage bugs and fungus but the odd dose now and again can help the microbes in the soil which in turn help the plants take in more nutrients,
here is the info below that i found
Sugar is OK, but what you need is molasses! Sugar will feed the beneficial fungi and bacteria in your soil, which in turn help your plants absorb their nutrients. Molasses goes one step further- it provides minerals, too. You will want the darker kind of molasses, not the light. Darker means more good stuff in it. I use one tablespoon per gallon of water, deep into flowering I sometimes use 2. If your plant is a sativa (tall, with skinny leaves), it may not help- some of them just have fluffy buds. Try running a search on molasses here and you will start using it
@dharma, if you cant keep the temps in check then try running the light at night and off in the middle of the day, that should help keep the temps down when the lights are on, my grow door has to stay open slightly to keep the temps in check, i can have the door shut for a couple of hours but any longer and the room gets toasty, so my lights come on at 11am so i am always up by then so by dinner time ive opened the door and the room is then left like that until the lights go off at 11pm, i try and set the timer to run at hours that are convenient to me, i dont want to be opening and closing the door at 6 or 7am when i may be a sleep then close that door at 7pm when i might be out, so i try and set the timer to run at times when i know im in and can open and close the door without worrying about not been their or been up to open it,
if the temps are to low the plants wont grow or they will grow but a lot slower, if the temps are to high then the plants will stretch as their trying to reach cooler air, which indoors its hotter the higher the plant gets, outdoors the plants stretch to grow taller than the surrounding plants so they can get into the breeze higher up allowing them to lose moisture and cool down, indoors they stretch into hotter air and this just keeps them stretching, if temps are to high in flower then the buds will also stretch,
so getting the temp in range really pays off, so as long as you got fans blowing over the canopy then the light can be lowered and the plants kept cool, in the winter i can have the light lower than 1ft but during summer months 1ft about canopy is about the closest i can get the light,
if some plant are not as tall as others then i use boxes to raise the pots up so the canopy is totally even then i know the plants are all getting the best light all the time
i do notice a difference in the plants when i use sugar but i think thats more to do with the microbes having a nice sugar rush every few weeks, so molasses clearly benefits the plants due to the plants using that the molasses provides,
here is the info on the sugar
Sugar is OK, but what you need is molasses! Sugar will feed the beneficial fungi and bacteria in your soil, which in turn help your plants absorb their nutrients. Molasses goes one step further- it provides minerals, too. You will want the darker kind of molasses, not the light. Darker means more good stuff in it. I use one tablespoon per gallon of water, deep into flowering I sometimes use 2. If your plant is a sativa (tall, with skinny leaves), it may not help- some of them just have fluffy buds. Try running a search on molasses here and you will start using it
so ill try and pick some molasses up the weekend and give it a try, ive read different guide some say use it through the whole grow, others say use it for the last few weeks of flower and another says use it as foliar feed.
reps for the info king, i think the warm water is the best option then add that to the cold water before watering the plants, its how i feed the sugar as adding brown unbleached sugar to water just dont make it disolve so i use a small cup and put a tea spoon of sugar in and add some warm water, then add that to the cold water, it does give my plants a small boost as i can notice the difference, not sure i would do it to often as it can encourage bugs and fungus but the odd dose now and again can help the microbes in the soil which in turn help the plants take in more nutrients,
here is the info below that i found
Sugar is OK, but what you need is molasses! Sugar will feed the beneficial fungi and bacteria in your soil, which in turn help your plants absorb their nutrients. Molasses goes one step further- it provides minerals, too. You will want the darker kind of molasses, not the light. Darker means more good stuff in it. I use one tablespoon per gallon of water, deep into flowering I sometimes use 2. If your plant is a sativa (tall, with skinny leaves), it may not help- some of them just have fluffy buds. Try running a search on molasses here and you will start using it
@dharma, if you cant keep the temps in check then try running the light at night and off in the middle of the day, that should help keep the temps down when the lights are on, my grow door has to stay open slightly to keep the temps in check, i can have the door shut for a couple of hours but any longer and the room gets toasty, so my lights come on at 11am so i am always up by then so by dinner time ive opened the door and the room is then left like that until the lights go off at 11pm, i try and set the timer to run at hours that are convenient to me, i dont want to be opening and closing the door at 6 or 7am when i may be a sleep then close that door at 7pm when i might be out, so i try and set the timer to run at times when i know im in and can open and close the door without worrying about not been their or been up to open it,
if the temps are to low the plants wont grow or they will grow but a lot slower, if the temps are to high then the plants will stretch as their trying to reach cooler air, which indoors its hotter the higher the plant gets, outdoors the plants stretch to grow taller than the surrounding plants so they can get into the breeze higher up allowing them to lose moisture and cool down, indoors they stretch into hotter air and this just keeps them stretching, if temps are to high in flower then the buds will also stretch,
so getting the temp in range really pays off, so as long as you got fans blowing over the canopy then the light can be lowered and the plants kept cool, in the winter i can have the light lower than 1ft but during summer months 1ft about canopy is about the closest i can get the light,
if some plant are not as tall as others then i use boxes to raise the pots up so the canopy is totally even then i know the plants are all getting the best light all the time
Happy Weedday DPaul
- Thread starter
- #497
back at ya chronic 
runewulfsong
New Member
- Thread starter
- #499
its 3 toke thursday for me, looks like im stopping at my moms the night as my lift never turned up, she took my kids away for a week and not back till sat so im on dog duty, plus fish and bird duty,
so im going to roll a fat one and get caught up on these journals, plus i like to check out new journals to see what new talent this site brings us, im always amazed by the mix of growers we got, first time growers and growers that have grown for 20 years or more, they all bring their own bit of knowledge to this site, its a site that just keeps on giving.
maybe a 420 mag grow book could some day grace our shelves in the future,
so im going to roll a fat one and get caught up on these journals, plus i like to check out new journals to see what new talent this site brings us, im always amazed by the mix of growers we got, first time growers and growers that have grown for 20 years or more, they all bring their own bit of knowledge to this site, its a site that just keeps on giving.
maybe a 420 mag grow book could some day grace our shelves in the future,
miwa
New Member
yep..you found the info on molases..i use Blackstrap..i get from the health store and Sugar Daddy from Technaflora products..i think growers use mollas because grow store carbs cost more..and mollas doese the same things for plants..older growers used syrup...sugar...anything sweet to feed those microbes..or whatever..
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