medmanmike
Well-Known Member
Yes.Or are you talking about dunking the pot in a container with double strength drench.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
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masonman
New Member
Gotcha...
I was disappointed with my first grow when I autopsied the rootball after harvest. I had nothing for roots outside the original #1 pot size. The #1 pot rootball looked perfect for root mass. I transplanted to a 20 gallon fabric and flipped to flower before any more wet/dry cycles. Then I kept the soil moist during flowing like recommended.
This time around I'm afraid they are going to get me when I'm sleeping.
After my transplant to the final container, Doc walked me through building the roots before flipping to flower. It all comes back to the wet/dry cycle.
I'm not saying this is your situation, just empathizing with the disappointment in lack of root development and possible loss in yield.
BTW... Love Doc's advice about keeping the top of the soil just barely moist between waterings. I have roots growing right to the surface. I'm using every square inch of this pot now.
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
NEW (Aug. 2015) technique for watering during Veg. Prepare a tub/bucket of water such that when you submerge a dry container from above, the water level is ¾ths up to the level of the soil. If using a drench, mix it TWICE AS STRONG AS NORMAL.
From Doc: "12/14/15 - Veg: dunked in a solution of 1 oz Growth Energy, 5 mils Tea and 1 oz Transplant in 4 gallons of water. This was poured into two buckets and the plants were soaked for 5 minutes. About half the water was left over, hence the double strength drench. I'll save that for a day and use it tomorrow on some other plants that need it.
Both of these quotes are from Doc. I picked them up from his comments on this forum. I've dated and paraphrased for my own understanding.
Refer to posts #9659, 9745, 9757, 9781, 10880,
Doc, if I'm off base say so so I don't mess anyone up.
Cannatard
Well-Known Member
Thats correct
MMM roots definitely matter for sure-how long do you go with your buds? A week or 2 longer can add a decent percent more of weight. 
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
MMM roots definitely matter for sure-how long do you go with your buds? A week or 2 longer can add a decent percent more of weight.
Everything went way over the breeders recommendation. Earlier, I asked about when to start counting "flowering", not just the switch to 12/12. Many replied, for example, when flowers look like little daisies.
I normally count from 12/12, but this time I waited two weeks from 12/12 to start the count. Still went over by a lot. I thought on some of the strains that the buds/colas had stopped growing and were actually shrinking.
I averaged 2.4 oz/ plant (dry) with a yield of .77 g/watt. (My last couple of plants really produced which bumped my averages from what I mentioned in the early post).
pino0911
Well-Known Member
Hey doc. I had a quick question. M bout to order ur kit cant wait. What i wanted to know is where can I get the strains you run lemon paki and columbian and champagne??? Please let me know cause I want to grow what is proven to produce wit the high brix kit. M sure any strains would work but m curious about proven strains. Thanks n cant wait to hear from you!!
Cannatard
Well-Known Member
Those are his strains I believe and theres no way to get them. They're like the pot o gold at the end of the rainbow...they could exist but nobody ever finds them hahaha! No but for real, theyre his babies
Budley Dorite
Well-Known Member
I think there is only a few(3) people that have lemon paki.....& it is considered "sacred". I would like to take a drive down Hwy. 101 this winter & maybe grab a sample 
Morglie
Well-Known Member
Lemon Paki he got as a cut. It's supposed to be one of the parents of the original og kush. No idea where that truly came from as Pakistani is an indica typically but Doc's is a sativa. Maybe a super rare sativa expression of Pakistani? The Columbian was a seeded cola from Columbia. Cannabiogen has a strain Punta Roja that is Columbian red. Should be very similar. I've never seen specifics on champagne. I think it came around in one of his early journals that I've missed.
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- #12,011
Doc, a couple of questions for you. Just finished harvesting my 6th HB grow. Except for one Blue Dream with some slight yellowing of the upper fan leaves just prior to harvest, every plants' leaves were nice and green and pliable (not crispy) right up to the end. Everything looks good, smells wonderful and buds are full of crystals. I'm running two 3x3' trays under two DormGrow 450s and two DormGrow RED UFOs during flower. 8 plants, 7 gal pots. All 8 were vegged 5 or 6 wks.
Two things I noticed with this grow.
1) when I broke down the pots to recycle dirt and roots, I noticed that though there were roots circling the bottom, they were "thin" as compared to the root bound mass I found when I up canned from 1 gal pots. This grow I incorporated the "double-strength Drench" during veg. that you now recommend. I let them get good and dry as you preach and gave them a couple cups of h20 when the top soil was dry. In flower, I watered 1/3 on top and 2/3 in the tray. Relative to the root mass left over from the 1gal pot, there were basically no roots in the 7gal pots at harvest. Why not? With previous grows, I often had to water every other day or so in flower. This grow, I could go 5-7 days between watering. This makes sense as fewer roots drink less water.
2) The yield so far is averaging about 1 3/4 oz per plant, which is slightly above average for me. I have two Afghanis still drying and I anticipate they will be close to 2oz per plant.
My questions are, what am I not doing that is resulting in fewer roots during flowering? If I understand you correctly, there is a direct correlation to mucho roots to mucho yield. This could explain my 'average' yield, yes? Quality before quantity for sure, but believe I can do better than I have.
Any advice will be appreciated!
If you're scoring the rootball when you transplant, and let the dry out maybe once or twice in EARLY bloom, keeping the top slightly moist, you should have massive roots.
What kind of pots are you using?
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- #12,012
You're exactly correct.
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- #12,013
There are only 3 people in the world right now with Lemon Paki.....at least it appears that way. We don't give it out.
Champagne is another one like that. Colombian can be found in seed banks that feature landrace strains.
If you want an unusual, excellent strain to try in High Brix, get some Jack Herer.
- Thread starter
- #12,014
Paki isn't really an indica....it's a Kush strain, from the real HIndu Kush mountains. Since my photoperiod is 11/13 it really brings out the sativa traits, as does high brix growing.
Champagne is a thai strain. I've got a bunch of seeds, most of which I don't know anything about other than names or country of origin.
Morglie
Well-Known Member
I thought kush was a landrace indica. Is it one of those landraces where it's borderline climate between sativa and Indica like Nepalese, and it depends on the environment on how it expresses?
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- #12,016
Yep. The environment is super important.
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
I do score the root balls and am cautious watering the few couple of weeks of flower. GroPro NC7 (7 gal trade)
overlord
Well-Known Member
My question has probably been answered in the past, but I haven't run across it yet. I know the rootball development is important, but what if you have some sativa strains that are recommended to go straight into 12/12 from seed?
Would you still veg and maybe use some supercrop, lst, scrog or other such training?
Would you still veg and maybe use some supercrop, lst, scrog or other such training?
SmokeyMcFly
Well-Known Member
Unless you have 15' of height to work with you have to take some steps to keep them under control for sure. I personally consider the first month or so after flip of a pure sativa as its veg time and usually flip them right after I top them for the first time. Straight to 12/12 is a good option also Ziggy likes to do them that way I think. Regardless you will still most likely need to do some training also, just try not to top them after flipping them, stick to one of the other training options once in flower.
overlord
Well-Known Member
Thanks,
So if I flip to 12/12 from seed or after a couple of sets of leaves develop, should I still start them in 1 gallon pots to develop a rootball? or start in the larger pots? I definitely don't have 15 foot of overhead space, more like 7 1/2 to 8 ft. I was thinking I would let maybe three sets of leaves develop, then possibly top them. but still wonder which size pot to start them in.
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