Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

[ShiggityFlip]

I run 18/6 in veg and switch to 11.5/12.5 Light/Dark in flower. I don't go to 11/13 like some of the other as they run mostly Sativa and I have all hybrids or Indica. I like 11.5/12.5 because I feel like it brings on the trichomes for Indicas and Hybrids, while not affecting their yield in any significant way.

 

[DrZiggy]

So I have another noob question for the DBHB group. Being that this is all new to me, and from what I have read so far in the status quo of lighting methods, I have just set my light for a 18/6 schedule. I did not have a timer when I first got my room running so for the past 12 days I have been going 24/0. My timer is now set and running today at 18/6. I don't know how general the belief is on lighting being that I have read several people using all different schedules. I am looking for some insight. I know Zigs was running 11/13 from start to finish. Any advice would be super cool. Time to do a little while I wait for some expert analysis.

any pics? I dont think i ever saw a plant grown 24/0 for 12 days..
Did she get huge? Ive read mixed things re: lighting too.
They need to rest.
Ive noticed Doc and others with almost perfect plants get their environments dialed in, and try not to stress the plant from beginning to end

 

[Major PITA]

I think your 18/6 is perfect until/unless you want them to bloom. After that it depends on the strain, but 12/12 works for me.

 

[Cannatard]

I used to use GLR for lighting but switched to 16/8 and I just go with 12/12 for flower

 

[Graytail]

any pics? I dont think i ever saw a plant grown 24/0 for 12 days..
Did she get huge? Ive read mixed things re: lighting too.
They need to rest.
Ive noticed Doc and others with almost perfect plants get their environments dialed in, and try not to stress the plant from beginning to end

Yeah, this veg-timing question is going to get the standard variety of personal choices. I've vegged plants 24/0 and they grow just fine. I've also vegged 16/8 and they grow more slowly. People use the GLR method of interrupting a 12/12 cycle with a half hour of light in the middle of the dark period, and they say there isn't much less growth. At the moment, I'm running 18/6.

But that's a profound statement and the key to getting the most out of our plants, becoming a cannabis "cultivator". We can concentrate on one thing or another thing, we can get every individual thing the way we think it should be, but it's the big picture that counts for the plant itself. Does your environment allow a plant to make good use of another hour or two of light, of is it too dry or too moist in there? Is it too hot or too breezy or too stagnant? Is there enough available nutrition in the soil? Etc.

That's why people get different results.

I've decided that I've learned something important from my latest run. Having a ton of light isn't a good thing if the plants are under severe insect pressure and/or the humidity is low, etc. It's an irritant to the plant, making the leaves work harder than the rest of the plant can support. If you think about it, that's true of each factor. You don't want to rev up a weak motor.

The trick is integrating all the factors into something that works best under your own particular conditions. One affects another. That's the true lesson of environment. It's not so much getting each thing perfect - it's getting the whole thing "perfect".

 

[Doc Bud]

I've decided that I've learned something important from my latest run. Having a ton of light isn't a good thing if the plants are under severe insect pressure and/or the humidity is low, etc. It's an irritant to the plant, making the leaves work harder than the rest of the plant can support. If you think about it, that's true of each factor. You don't want to rev up a weak motor.

The trick is integrating all the factors into something that works best under your own particular conditions. One affects another. That's the true lesson of environment. It's not so much getting each thing perfect - it's getting the whole thing "perfect".

Yep!

It pays to understand some basics, IE vapor pressure. If your room runs hot, you need more humidity.

Ideal temps during lights on are 77-79. If highs are 77 I try to about 50% humidity. If they are 79 I bump that up to 55%.

Ideal night temps are 66-69. Again, if low temps are 66 I like it a bit on the dry side...say 40% rH. If nightime lows are 69 or so, then 50% rH is about perfect.

Little things like this make all the difference!

My high temps with Co2 enrichment are 82 degrees at the canopy. Room temp measured anywhere but right under the lights remains about 78. I like to get humidity up to about 60% when it's 82 and sunny, especially for the sativas.

The ability to control and dictate the environment on any day of the week, regardless of outside weather is the ONLY advantage to indoor growing. If we fail to take this advantage by having poor AC, poor Dehum, poor light, poor air circulation, stale air, etc. we will never have the type of produce that we could have.

 

[Gaffle]

I run 18/6 in veg and switch to 11.5/12.5 Light/Dark in flower. I don't go to 11/13 like some of the other as they run mostly Sativa and I have all hybrids or Indica. I like 11.5/12.5 because I feel like it brings on the trichomes for Indicas and Hybrids, while not affecting their yield in any significant way.

any pics? I dont think i ever saw a plant grown 24/0 for 12 days..
Did she get huge? Ive read mixed things re: lighting too.
They need to rest.
Ive noticed Doc and others with almost perfect plants get their environments dialed in, and try not to stress the plant from beginning to end

Page 724 of this thread at the top is my first pick of my plant. That has been going 24/0 up until today and it sprouted on March 19th.

Thx everyone. I just don't want to F up my first run, although I'm sure many have. Setting the base of what will be a great hobby for my wife and I.

 

[Gaffle]

Yep!

It pays to understand some basics, IE vapor pressure. If your room runs hot, you need more humidity.

Ideal temps during lights on are 77-79. If highs are 77 I try to about 50% humidity. If they are 79 I bump that up to 55%.

Ideal night temps are 66-69. Again, if low temps are 66 I like it a bit on the dry side...say 40% rH. If nightime lows are 69 or so, then 50% rH is about perfect.

Little things like this make all the difference!

My high temps with Co2 enrichment are 82 degrees at the canopy. Room temp measured anywhere but right under the lights remains about 78. I like to get humidity up to about 60% when it's 82 and sunny, especially for the sativas.

The ability to control and dictate the environment on any day of the week, regardless of outside weather is the ONLY advantage to indoor growing. If we fail to take this advantage by having poor AC, poor Dehum, poor light, poor air circulation, stale air, etc. we will never have the type of produce that we could have.

Yeah man. Creating a whole ecosystem in my basement that is different than 95% of my house has been an interesting venture so far. My space is so small that I have no intention of investing anything huge to make a PERFECT environment. I would not be able to do this under my stairs. What I am trying to accomplish right now is just the basics and not straight up perfection. My plants seem to be doing well. Lights are on in 4 hours so I will be taking some photos later.

 

[flowerfarmer]

Another advantage of growing indoors is a little more security and easier access than my old guerilla grows.

"The ability to control and dictate the environment on any day of the week, regardless of outside weather is the ONLY advantage to indoor growing."

 

[Graytail]

Another advantage of growing indoors is a little more security and easier access than my old guerilla grows.

"The ability to control and dictate the environment on any day of the week, regardless of outside weather is the ONLY advantage to indoor growing."

LOL!

True

 

[Duggan]

It's like we're all playing God!

 

[BrixNewb]

Ok guys, need some help here. First two pictures are of a plant that has had both Cat Drenches and a watering. Third picture is a plant that has only had one Cat Drench. They both seem to have developed these spots within the past couple of days. Environment is 79 degrees with 53% RH during lights on, do not believe it to be environment related. Only thing I can think it could possibly be is some sort of leeching from the galvanized tubs I use to drench.

 

[medmanmike]

i have only 12 plants in bloom, max. i understand, the hydro, which i never have done, gives more fruit. but, bland fruit. soil/soiless is best. thats all i have ever done. the problem with "commercial size" organics, for vegs, is the cost. if we are all demanding organic, we will be met with three times the cost. lots of people, will go hungry. but, on a home sized garden, we can do well. im trying to find out, what tea that is, that docbud was refering to. id like to check it out. thanks for the heads up! i see the last med disp closed in my neighborhood. the state is forcing them out, so it can have all profits to itself. anyone with "active cards" will have their info, shared with city, county, state, etc.

Cannilingus, where do you live? Sounds like Michigan. Closing disp. right and left and Leg. working on a "seed to sale" law, with multiple middle man and no home grows!

 

[Gaffle]

When I dunk my plants with a twice strong drench is it kosher do do more that 1 at a time with same bucket? As in mix twice strong drench and dunk both of my plants in same bucket. Soil is not dry enough to water but will be in the next day or 2. This is just my watering schedule so my plan is to do 1/2 strength transplant, as opposed to 1/4 strength, in bucket.

 

[Governmentchz]

You can do multiple buckets in the same soup. When applying a drench, I usually try to mix just enough water/drench to satisfy my needs at the time and then use it all. That way I don't mess too much with the double-strength stuff. Then I dunk when watering (or doing the 1/4 transplant).

 

[Major PITA]

I'm still unclear on this "double-strength drench when dunked" instruction. Is it just to compensate for 50% waste, or is there another reason?
I ask because the way I usually do it, I have very little waste (maybe 5% - 10% max). I don't want to cheat the girls out of what they need, but I don't want to over do it either. It probably doesn't matter, but I'm curious as to the reasoning. It seems unlikely we each throw out half of our drenches each time we feed.

 

[Doc Bud]

Ok guys, need some help here. First two pictures are of a plant that has had both Cat Drenches and a watering. Third picture is a plant that has only had one Cat Drench. They both seem to have developed these spots within the past couple of days. Environment is 79 degrees with 53% RH during lights on, do not believe it to be environment related. Only thing I can think it could possibly be is some sort of leeching from the galvanized tubs I use to drench.

Rescue Drench!

Looks like it will recover, except for the spots. I seriously doubt the tubs have any effect.

 

[Doc Bud]

When I dunk my plants with a twice strong drench is it kosher do do more that 1 at a time with same bucket? As in mix twice strong drench and dunk both of my plants in same bucket. Soil is not dry enough to water but will be in the next day or 2. This is just my watering schedule so my plan is to do 1/2 strength transplant, as opposed to 1/4 strength, in bucket.

You can do multiple buckets in the same soup. When applying a drench, I usually try to mix just enough water/drench to satisfy my needs at the time and then use it all. That way I don't mess too much with the double-strength stuff. Then I dunk when watering (or doing the 1/4 transplant).

I'm still unclear on this "double-strength drench when dunked" instruction. Is it just to compensate for 50% waste, or is there another reason?
I ask because the way I usually do it, I have very little waste (maybe 5% - 10% max). I don't want to cheat the girls out of what they need, but I don't want to over do it either. It probably doesn't matter, but I'm curious as to the reasoning. It seems unlikely we each throw out half of our drenches each time we feed.

If I'm going to dunk say 8 veg plants I'll mix up about 3 gallons of water with 1 ounce of GE and dunk. That's about twice as strong, give or take, because 1 ounce is about right for 5 or 6 plants in bloom but we're only using 3 gallons. Maybe 1.5 gallons will be left over.

 

[masonman]

I'm still unclear on this "double-strength drench when dunked" instruction. Is it just to compensate for 50% waste, or is there another reason?
I ask because the way I usually do it, I have very little waste (maybe 5% - 10% max). I don't want to cheat the girls out of what they need, but I don't want to over do it either. It probably doesn't matter, but I'm curious as to the reasoning. It seems unlikely we each throw out half of our drenches each time we feed.

I've been throwing out my waste. The smallest container I can find as of now to soak my pot in takes 12 cups of water to cover 3/4 of my pot. When the pot is dry, it absorbs a little over 3oz. That's 75% waste. Doc has said to add 10ML/gallon to the container (double strength) for the soak. I'm adding about 7ML since I cannot use a whole gallon (I haven't gotten to the whole "plop" form of measurement yet...lol)

If I had more pots to soak, I would reuse the leftover adding only as much "new drench" as needed to get to 3/4 pot height for the next soak. But, in the end there would be that 9 cups waste. I don't think it would be a big deal running a full kit of 6 plants, but I'm only running one, so my waste is pretty high.

I don't know if this helps you or not, but at least I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, and we can both learn

 

[ShiggityFlip]

If I had just one pot I would wrap the bottom of the pot in a clear plastic bag and put rubber bands on it. Then you could drench it with the exact amount needed and not waste any!