Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Best tea I've ever seen. Very, very strong, however!

One of these days I'll try an application of it in high brix just for fun.

Now you are talking Doc!

I remember you saying you were experimenting on the OG's trying to get them to behave in HB soil. Any luck with the things you were trying? I think it was high P guano you were going to add (if I remember).
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Now you are talking Doc!

I remember you saying you were experimenting on the OG's trying to get them to behave in HB soil. Any luck with the things you were trying? I think it was high P guano you were going to add (if I remember).

Yes, it helped a lot. I'll get some pics of the OG here in a day or so. They're taking forever to finish.

I'm not in love with this Tahoe Cut......gonna stick with SFV or Fire OG when I try again.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

You're gonna be fine. The root ball wasnt big enough to support that size plant. That will improve over the next week.

next time you water, do the following:

1. When nearly dry, soak the hell out of them with straight water....like 3 or 4 gallons for each container.
2. About an hour after watering, mix up 2 gallons of transplant water with Tea and evenly distribute to each plant.
3. Next feeding Transplant as well, 1 oz for the whole mess.

You're gonna be fine.
They seem to be responding well Doc and they are at 21 days of 12/12 which would be the 3 week point. In step 3 above you recommended another transplant feeding. What are your thoughts on a cat drench now for the next feeding instead?
New growth looks good and back on schedule with foliars. Some pics.
0031467.JPG

0041380.JPG

011705.JPG


Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc! Nice pics Any2...like the colour.Sorry for buttin in like this.Gotta few questions for you Doc.Got the soil cooking tonight as per instructions ...it was almost hard, not to put more, or add anything eh! I was wondering why you say to cover the soil while it's "cooking"? I usually cover with a screen or pantyhose so air can still get at it but no bugs.Is it becuase it will dry out too fast over the month?Did you mean to just loosly cover? I don't know what's best.One more Q ...you have grown MK ultra in the past? Can you give me any tips on the strain Doc? Im about to drop some coin on 5 fems. tomorrow for the kit soil.These beans are expensive but worth it,i hope.In the H.B. soil and using your , methods, should be fun:) So here i go Doc!
Sent from my Delorean...in the future! Duggan.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc! Nice pics Any2...like the colour.Sorry for buttin in like this.Gotta few questions for you Doc.Got the soil cooking tonight as per instructions ...it was almost hard, not to put more, or add anything eh! I was wondering why you say to cover the soil while it's "cooking"? I usually cover with a screen or pantyhose so air can still get at it but no bugs.Is it becuase it will dry out too fast over the month?Did you mean to just loosly cover? I don't know what's best.One more Q ...you have grown MK ultra in the past? Can you give me any tips on the strain Doc? Im about to drop some coin on 5 fems. tomorrow for the kit soil.These beans are expensive but worth it,i hope.In the H.B. soil and using your , methods, should be fun:) So here i go Doc!
Sent from my Delorean...in the future! Duggan.

Sounds like you've got a good plan! I recommend "cooking" in a 40 gallon heavy duty rubber-type garbage can. The lid allows the soil to breathe, but it also keeps moisture in. We're trying to duplicate what happens UNDER the top of the soil....hence covering the container.

My MK Ultra wasn't one of my better grows. It was a long time ago and I grew it in hempy buckets.

Here's some current pics! C99 on day 20 or so, Champagne, and Tahoe OG. The OG is going to yield huge and has 3 weeks to go. Not as impressive resin-wise as I had hoped, but things seem to be turning on now, late in the bloom cycle. That is a common trait with many of the OG types.

IMG_5184.jpg
IMG_51832.jpg
IMG_51822.JPG
IMG_5181.jpg
IMG_5180.jpg
IMG_5179.jpg
IMG_51781.JPG
IMG_51771.jpg
IMG_5176.jpg
IMG_51751.jpg
IMG_51742.jpg
IMG_51734.JPG
IMG_51722.jpg
IMG_51711.jpg
IMG_51701.jpg
Picture_007176.jpg
Picture_005210.jpg
Picture_004219.jpg
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

They are gorgeous doc. Im getting extremely close to starting and I think I may need to get those other items soon.
I have a round of clones that will be ready next week, and was hoping these can be my starts.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Awesome!

Doc.... question in #1064. Thoughts on moving along? Another transplant dose or cat drench?

Thanks!

Just follow the instructions and let them grow themselves....which they will. Not every grow requires intervention...most shouldn't require any.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok guys and gals, I've been hearing about many more people getting PM, not only around these forums but here amongst the community of growers. So, I've been listening, reading, asking questions, researching, etc.

Here's what I am doing right now:

I'm running a sulfur burner with all the fans off, the room sealed and two humidifiers on at full blast. Rh was up to 80% and I had dew on the walls when I fired up that burner.

Yes, I did this in the flower room with the blooming plants. It will burn for about 4 hours and then the lights will come on two hours after that. From what I've been able to learn, this is probably the best way to kill PM and not harm the plants or use questionable chemicals or oils that leave a bad taste and don't actually kill the PM....


I'll report back tomorrow!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

They seem to be responding well Doc and they are at 21 days of 12/12 which would be the 3 week point. In step 3 above you recommended another transplant feeding. What are your thoughts on a cat drench now for the next feeding instead?
New growth looks good and back on schedule with foliars. Some pics.
0031467.JPG

0041380.JPG

011705.JPG


Peace,

Any2
Ok maybe I am not reaching you here so I will repost this. You recommended a follow up transplant dose in step 3(for the leaf curling, tox etc.) Since they seem to responding well I wanted to ask you what your thoughts were on getting back to schedule and going cat drench in weeks 3&4 per instructions and foregoing the follow up transplant dose you originally recommended. We are in week 3 right now. So we did do a little intervention and altered course a little per your instruction because of the leaf curling/tox situation. I agree that all we need to do is follow the plan but we had a small hiccup. My own thought was to just get back on the plan since they are responding well but wanted to run it by you. Thanks again Doc!!!!!!!!!

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok guys and gals, I've been hearing about many more people getting PM, not only around these forums but here amongst the community of growers. So, I've been listening, reading, asking questions, researching, etc.

Here's what I am doing right now:

I'm running a sulfur burner with all the fans off, the room sealed and two humidifiers on at full blast. Rh was up to 80% and I had dew on the walls when I fired up that burner.

Yes, I did this in the flower room with the blooming plants. It will burn for about 4 hours and then the lights will come on two hours after that. From what I've been able to learn, this is probably the best way to kill PM and not harm the plants or use questionable chemicals or oils that leave a bad taste and don't actually kill the PM....


I'll report back tomorrow!
Looking forward to this. I had PM for the first time my last grow. I blamed it on a few weak genetics I ran, but had a tough time fighting it even on the good genetics. I kept the room at good temps and RH the whole grow but still had PM... If the sulfur burner works, I will pick one up. Don't want to deal with that crap again!
Beautiful plants as always Doc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ok maybe I am not reaching you here so I will repost this. You recommended a follow up transplant dose in step 3(for the leaf curling, tox etc.) Since they seem to responding well I wanted to ask you what your thoughts were on getting back to schedule and going cat drench in weeks 3&4 per instructions and foregoing the follow up transplant dose you originally recommended. We are in week 3 right now. So we did do a little intervention and altered course a little per your instruction because of the leaf curling/tox situation. I agree that all we need to do is follow the plan but we had a small hiccup. My own thought was to just get back on the plan since they are responding well but wanted to run it by you. Thanks again Doc!!!!!!!!!

Any2

The plan....getting back on it we are.....
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Looking forward to this. I had PM for the first time my last grow. I blamed it on a few weak genetics I ran, but had a tough time fighting it even on the good genetics. I kept the room at good temps and RH the whole grow but still had PM... If the sulfur burner works, I will pick one up. Don't want to deal with that crap again!
Beautiful plants as always Doc.

Well, a couple things:

1. I don't have PM right now so I won't be able to confirm that the Sulfur burner will work.....but EVERYONE claims it's a done deal with the sulfur "vaporizer" after one application, so I'm very confident that this is a true statement

2. The directions for the sulfur burner say not to use it if the plants have been sprayed with an oil-based foliar within the last 30 days. The Bug and Pest product I include in the kits is oil based.....and I used it about 20 days ago, but have used water based foliars since that time.

I'll go in today to see if there are any survivors.

I don't like to mess around with crap like this at all. I don't like to spray fungicides, miticides or anything like that, which is why the sulfur burner is so attractive. I know it works....that's not the issue at all. The questions are about its compatibility with regular foliar spraying in the High Brix program.

So.....I use my own garden as the guinea pig and I won't tell anyone or suggest to anyone that they do something if I haven't done it myself first. Especially something like this!

Oh....the sulfur burner kills mites too. Bonus. The OG's----being lower brix on purpose----have mild mite damage. Higher brix plants show continued resistance.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

OK, here are the plants AFTER a 4 hour burn, sealed room 80-90% humidity.

At this point there are zero living spores of PM and the outbreak on any plant has been eradicated. The worry was what, if any, damage might come about as a result of foliar feeding. The directions for the sulfur vaporizer specifically mention not to use if oil-based sprays were used in the past 30 days.

As we all know, foliar feeding is central to High Brix gardening....so we need a method of dealing with PM that doesn't conflict with foliar feeding.

I think, if anything, the plants look better after their treatment. I'll be quick drying a few buds to test for sulfur taste, but I'm told it will be undetectable, and I'm going to wash.

IMG_52051.jpg
IMG_5204.JPG
IMG_5201.jpg
IMG_51991.jpg
IMG_5198.jpg
IMG_51961.jpg
IMG_51951.jpg
IMG_5194.jpg
IMG_51931.jpg
IMG_51922.JPG
IMG_51912.jpg
IMG_51902.jpg
IMG_51892.jpg
IMG_5188.JPG
IMG_51871.jpg
IMG_5186.JPG
IMG_51852.jpg
IMG_5184.jpg
 
Those are some beautiful plants like always man, they look great for just having a sulfur bath. Hope they taste great!

So I mixed my soil and added the 6/5/3 mix but I'm wondering about plants that are in veg stage atm, can I top dress with 6/5/3 to add to it or put it in a tea? or is there no point in adding the mix to already started plants.
 
Back
Top Bottom