Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hello folks!

It's just no fun for me to read all of your replies telling just how tasty these buds are with Docs kid. Becase it's impossible to get a hold on one myself :reading420magazine: since I live elsewhere than the states. But I am really glad to see jsut how happy you all are with the kit! I like everyone to be happy and have nice tasty buds! ^^ Today i bought some stuff for me to make a decent soil mix, where I don't need to use any nutes, only use water . not the magic kinda soil, just a decent one ^^. I would really appriecate any guidance from you guys :Namaste:

I mixed:
35 L of organic growth medium:

grundmatriale: sphagnum
comminution degree: 0-40 mm
turnover rate: 75-95 g / l
-
liming agent:

chalk 4.5 kg/m3
pH 5.6 to 6.4
Conductivity 2.0 to 4.0
nitrate level 35-65
phosphorus value 25-40
potassium value 25-40
magnesium value 15-25
calcium value min. 150

pure nutrients added per. m3:
nitrate 77g
ammonium 34g
phosphorus 56g
potassium 190g
magnesium 5g
boron 0.3 g
molybdenum 1.7 g
copper 1.3 g
manganese 1.8g
zinc 0.3 g
iron 0.8g

10 L of champost:

are made of horse manure, chicken manure and sphagnum.
added 30kg agricultural lime per. m3

dry matter 30-40%
ash in dry matter 40-44%
organic matter in the dry matter, 55-61%
total nitrogen, 1-4 g / l
water-soluble nitrogen 0.1-0.5 g / l
total phosphorus 1-3 g / l
pH 6.5 to 8.0
conductance 21-25

5 L of Leca

Now what do I need to add to make it a decent soil rich in minerals? which I only need to water? do I just need to add 6:hugs:3 to the soil now or do I need anything else? I have blood meal, bone meal, kelp and rock powder (basalt) available. I could possible get some other stuff if needed. But first I need you to help me :helpsmilie: . I am sorry for the long post. I don't know if you needed all those numbers. But I add them just to make sure. :)

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Love Doc said:
Hello folks!

It's just no fun for me to read all of your replies telling just how tasty these buds are with Docs kid. Becase it's impossible to get a hold on one myself :reading420magazine: since I live elsewhere than the states. But I am really glad to see jsut how happy you all are with the kit! I like everyone to be happy and have nice tasty buds! ^^ Today i bought some stuff for me to make a decent soil mix, where I don't need to use any nutes, only use water . not the magic kinda soil, just a decent one ^^. I would really appriecate any guidance from you guys :Namaste:

I mixed:
35 L of organic growth medium:

grundmatriale: sphagnum
comminution degree: 0-40 mm
turnover rate: 75-95 g / l
-
liming agent:

chalk 4.5 kg/m3
pH 5.6 to 6.4
Conductivity 2.0 to 4.0
nitrate level 35-65
phosphorus value 25-40
potassium value 25-40
magnesium value 15-25
calcium value min. 150

pure nutrients added per. m3:
nitrate 77g
ammonium 34g
phosphorus 56g
potassium 190g
magnesium 5g
boron 0.3 g
molybdenum 1.7 g
copper 1.3 g
manganese 1.8g
zinc 0.3 g
iron 0.8g

10 L of champost:

are made of horse manure, chicken manure and sphagnum.
added 30kg agricultural lime per. m3

dry matter 30-40%
ash in dry matter 40-44%
organic matter in the dry matter, 55-61%
total nitrogen, 1-4 g / l
water-soluble nitrogen 0.1-0.5 g / l
total phosphorus 1-3 g / l
pH 6.5 to 8.0
conductance 21-25

5 L of Leca

Now what do I need to add to make it a decent soil rich in minerals? which I only need to water? do I just need to add 6:hugs:3 to the soil now or do I need anything else? I have blood meal, bone meal, kelp and rock powder (basalt) available. I could possible get some other stuff if needed. But first I need you to help me :helpsmilie: . I am sorry for the long post. I don't know if you needed all those numbers. But I add them just to make sure. :)

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
Click to expand...

You'll do pretty well with that mix. Your Mg/Ca ratio is good....I'd like to know how much sodium is in the soil, also boron.

If you stick with fishy ferts and add NOTHING that has potassium, you'll do very well. Also, get a good source of microbes and drench them every now and then.

I'd add the bone meal only, based on what you've listed. Feed with fish hydrolysate.....you'll have good success with that!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
You'll do pretty well with that mix. Your Mg/Ca ratio is good....I'd like to know how much sodium is in the soil, also boron.

If you stick with fishy ferts and add NOTHING that has potassium, you'll do very well. Also, get a good source of microbes and drench them every now and then.

I'd add the bone meal only, based on what you've listed. Feed with fish hydrolysate.....you'll have good success with that!
Click to expand...

Wow Doc, that is the fastest reply I've ever recieved here on 420. You are the Man! I want you to know that if I lived in the states i would definitely support your work by buying your products! It seems you have done so much great for the people here. Much love!

It seems that there is not added any Sodium (Na) to the soil. If there is, it is not stated in the declaration. The ratio of the Boron added is .3 grams per m3. (I am too medicated to calculate it to cubic foot. But 1 cubic meter = 35.3146667 cubic foot)

Did i understand your right, if you are saying that I should add the bone meal to the soil, but that I do have to use fertilizer (fish hydrolysate) now and then and drenching them with microbes?

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Love Doc said:
Wow Doc, that is the fastest reply I've ever recieved here on 420. You are the Man! I want you to know that if I lived in the states i would definitely support your work by buying your products! It seems you have done so much great for the people here. Much love!

It seems that there is not added any Sodium (Na) to the soil. If there is, it is not stated in the declaration. The ratio of the Boron added is .3 grams per m3. (I am too medicated to calculate it to cubic foot. But 1 cubic meter = 35.3146667 cubic foot)

Did i understand your right, if you are saying that I should add the bone meal to the soil, but that I do have to use fertilizer (fish hydrolysate) now and then and drenching them with microbes?

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
Click to expand...

Yep... add the bone meal and feed the fish fert every now and then, with the microbial source. Maybe every second or third time you water when they get bigger.

I'm having you add the bone meal in order to balance the phosphorus and potassium ratio. Like most soils, yours is way to high in potassium for high quality produce.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Yep... add the bone meal and feed the fish fert every now and then, with the microbial source. Maybe every second or third time you water when they get bigger.

I'm having you add the bone meal in order to balance the phosphorus and potassium ratio. Like most soils, yours is way to high in potassium for high quality produce.
Click to expand...

Okay I think i got it now. Thanks cheif. Would the soil be mineralised then? Do you have any assumptions on how many grams of bone meal I should add to my soil? N-P = 7-9. Would any fish ferts do? And are there alternatives? I am sorry if this is stupid questions.

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Love Doc said:
Okay I think i got it now. Thanks cheif. Would the soil be mineralised then? Do you have any assumptions on how many grams of bone meal I should add to my soil? N-P = 7-9. Would any fish ferts do? And are there alternatives? I am sorry if this is stupid questions.

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
Click to expand...

I think doing that would mineralize the soil pretty well. I don't like adding "rock dust" unless I know what's in it. Again, usually way too high in sodium.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
I think doing that would mineralize the soil pretty well. I don't like adding "rock dust" unless I know what's in it. Again, usually way too high in sodium.
Click to expand...

Again thanks alot! I really appreciate it. Have a nice day. :)

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc I was thinking about that feed schedule i posted. I purposefully timed the drenches in the first month of bloom to be geared towards reproduction and establishing flower sets, but now am wondering if there should be a dose of energy after the initial bloom-transplant. Anything wrong with using a growth oriented drench in such a critical reproductive time? I like the idea of pushing the organic/reproductive feed in the first month, but also don't want to hurt yield.

Maybe first feeding after transplant can be decided based on strain/stretch. Stretchy sativa - give it transplant. Stocky indica - it gets some energy.

New train of thought is:

Transplant into 7g and veg for a week
Dry out good
1/4transplant (soak)
Dry out good
Energy/transplant based on strain/individual plant (soak)
1/4 transplant (light)
Full strength transplant (light)
Cat drench...and so forth.

Also, still wondering about the every 5 days brix application and it's effects.

Seems like your HB weed inspires some great thinking. Every time I launch some of my HB Northern Lights I get all deep in thought about my plants and your kit. I've thoroughly enjoyed the scientifically stoney discussions and experiments.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I can tell you what I have been doing and what has worked for me if I may. I follow the feeding schedule for the kit, I just beefed up the feedings.

The drenches are all timing with the plant, as it's really strain dependent as when to add it. I strongly suggest following the instructions on any strain we haven't personally grown in HB soil. Just because they're all so different and all do act different in the soil. I stay on that feed schedule because it's constant and will only test on one plant of the bunch because if your wrong...your doomed. The late cat drench is exactly how Doc said when you think you have 2 weeks left hit her. As to the best way to finish, well I think that is strain dependent too, but so far energy is the way I like it best.

Edit...I posted some pics of my timing with drenches in my journal.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks curso yes follow the directions! Haha I got all inspired by you guys making little tweaks to the kit I figured I'd try to incorporate them into a blend of what's seems best. I got a couple girls so I'm thinking I will restrict my testing to one lady, but I think that doc and you and steppenwolf are onto something. So hard for me to decide who doing the best, everyone's plants are off the hook. I'll just rock tavosvo style and let everyone know how it went. I got one syntax just put into flower, another ready to flip in a week or so, and two of sannies extrema vegging out right now so I better get my journal started! Everyone can watch me either crash and burn or hopefully grow something I can be proud of after drooling over everyone's high brix grows.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Curso said:
I can tell you what I have been doing and what has worked for me if I may. I follow the feeding schedule for the kit, I just beefed up the feedings.

The drenches are all timing with the plant, as it's really strain dependent as when to add it. I strongly suggest following the instructions on any strain we haven't personally grown in HB soil. Just because they're all so different and all do act different in the soil. I stay on that feed schedule because it's constant and will only test on one plant of the bunch because if your wrong...your doomed. The late cat drench is exactly how Doc said when you think you have 2 weeks left hit her. As to the best way to finish, well I think that is strain dependent too, but so far energy is the way I like it best.
Click to expand...

Yup.

The Cat drench will bring on reproduction and if used to early and/or too often you'll have small, dense, frosty aromatic buds.

On the other hand, if you play reproductive energy off of growth energy you'll have large, dense, frosty aromatic buds.

Growth bulks! It's a good thing!

The lab doesn't recommend the cat drench, BTW. My first few grows were all done with Energy except for transplants. Excellent flavor, effect, etc.

We've been able to tweak it a bit and get even better results, but more is almost never better!

So, like Curso said, follow the instructions and familiarize yourself with how things work. These product have a profound effect on the plants and must be used with caution and intelligence.....two traits that I generally lack in one way or the other.

So.....you'll get world class weed following directions. As you become more familiar with everything, THEN you will have much more enjoyment going off in your own direction, which I encourage and expect from all cannabis cultivators! It's part of what makes this so much fun.

Wait till you guys see pics of my new C99......
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Harvest report: Used the next-to-last version of the kit and followed instructions very closely. Started plants in a greenhouse with heat mats, heaters, and fans. They ended up in 15 gal. pots in another small plastic greenhouse out in the garden (for privacy only) with doors open, fan going all day, cooling off with a hose when necessary. Pretty primitive operation compared to what many of you are doing, but the results are great. 1/3 more harvest than last year, and the quality is much better, according to my patient. We washed the buds and used a net hangar to dry and Ed Rosenthal's freeze-dry method to cure.
The cutting edge of soil science now (not just for the crop discussed here!) seems to be the interaction of soil microbes and appropriate mineralization, using sophisticated soil testing. Thank you so much, Doc, for having such an inquiring and scientific mind. We are indebted.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Gramma Maggie said:
Harvest report: Used the next-to-last version of the kit and followed instructions very closely. Started plants in a greenhouse with heat mats, heaters, and fans. They ended up in 15 gal. pots in another small plastic greenhouse out in the garden (for privacy only) with doors open, fan going all day, cooling off with a hose when necessary. Pretty primitive operation compared to what many of you are doing, but the results are great. 1/3 more harvest than last year, and the quality is much better, according to my patient. We washed the buds and used a net hangar to dry and Ed Rosenthal's freeze-dry method to cure.
The cutting edge of soil science now (not just for the crop discussed here!) seems to be the interaction of soil microbes and appropriate mineralization, using sophisticated soil testing. Thank you so much, Doc, for having such an inquiring and scientific mind. We are indebted.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for sharing your results! 33% more harvested and much better quality....sounds like your crop consultant helped out this year! :)

Did you use dry ice to cure? I'm not familiar with Ed's freeze-dry method, but it sounds interesting.

I'm sure your vegetables are ridiculously good this year.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Thanks so much for sharing your results! 33% more harvested and much better quality....sounds like your crop consultant helped out this year! :)

Did you use dry ice to cure? I'm not familiar with Ed's freeze-dry method, but it sounds interesting.

I'm sure your vegetables are ridiculously good this year.
Click to expand...

Ed's method is just mentioned briefly in his book. For the home grower it is just the freezer of an automatic defrosting refrigerator. (Automatic defrosting is essential!) Further investigation led me to try the simple method which is this: let the cuttings dry for several days using whichever method you like - racks or net or whatever. Then pack the stems into a cardboard box (or boxes) and fold over the tops - DO NOT SEAL. Place the boxes in the freezer for about 3 weeks. Check at regular intervals by thawing out some for a few hours to equalize moisture content and then fire up. You will know when it is right. Store as you usually do. There are, of course, minute variations on every step, but this is what worked for us and the results are good. And not much odor during the process. The reaction of many seems to be like the reaction to bud washing - profound disbelief. I wouldn't have tried it without Ed's mention.
Veggies are getting the former mineral brix method, and seem to be very happy. As are we, with many many thanks to the crop consultant.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Greetings Doc,

The drenching with good source of microbes... What exactly do you mean by that? soaking the plants? spraying them with flask?
Would anyone happend to know any good sources of microbes? I did some research and all I could find was that fungi should help the roots eat the phosphor. Is this correct?

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Love Doc said:
Greetings Doc,

The drenching with good source of microbes... What exactly do you mean by that? soaking the plants? spraying them with flask?
Would anyone happend to know any good sources of microbes? I did some research and all I could find was that fungi should help the roots eat the phosphor. Is this correct?

Best Regards
The Love Doc :slide:
Click to expand...

Well, there's a bit more to it than that. Research making microbial teas.
 
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