Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey doc! I harvested that northern lights auto I ran in your soil and holy smokes it's great. So smooth. Unbelievable flavor. And the high! It's incredible. So light and free but potent beyond anything I've had in a while. All my friends are blown away when I tell them I grew it. LOL.

I took a bunch of cuttings of a syntax mother I have and stuck them in rapid rooters in the dome. Half strength stress everyday, and almost three weeks later still no roots. Pulled one out and there was a massive root callus but no roots. The cuttings had grown a set of new leaves but no roots. How weird.

At the same time I took those cuttings I had a couple extra and decided to stick one in some cooked kit soil in a baby one cup pot. Covered with a dome and misted stress same schedule. This one grew almost three new sets of leaves in the three weeks that the rapid rooters grew one. I culled all the rooter plugs and figured I'd transplant the growing dirt clone, roots or not. To my amazement I pulled out the ball of soil to find all sorts of roots going off!! Couldn't believe my eyes.

I got another dirt clone going. This one I mixed a pinch of root zone in and watered with a few drops of transplant and one drop of tea. She's already taking off and it's only been 10 days!

Love the kit soil.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc,

I was catching up on some of Curso's journal about photoperiod change and toxicity and it got me thinking. Currently I have the 6 wild thai's in HB soil under T5s 18/6 6am to 12am but I want to get em in the flower room under HPS@ 600w to veg a little. But this timeframe conflicts with me for various reasons and eventually @ 12/12 I want to run an 8pm to 8am schedule. So lets say I want to start at 8pm and flip the schedule around. Could I extend the lights on period one day and go all the way to 8 am thus leaving lights on for 26 hrs instead of 18 and resuming and continuing on at 8pm from there on out @ 18/6. Thoughts or an action plan?

I searched around a bit but could not find anything. So in your example... say you get clones but don't really have knowledge of the period and just start and create your own schedule this could screw things up I would imagine.

Ok gonna watch some WSOP coverage I will check back later.

Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Any2cards said:
Hey Doc,

I was catching up on some of Curso's journal about photoperiod change and toxicity and it got me thinking. Currently I have the 6 wild thai's in HB soil under T5s 18/6 6am to 12am but I want to get em in the flower room under HPS@ 600w to veg a little. But this timeframe conflicts with me for various reasons and eventually @ 12/12 I want to run an 8pm to 8am schedule. So lets say I want to start at 8pm and flip the schedule around. Could I extend the lights on period one day and go all the way to 8 am thus leaving lights on for 26 hrs instead of 18 and resuming and continuing on at 8pm from there on out @ 18/6. Thoughts or an action plan?

I searched around a bit but could not find anything. So in your example... say you get clones but don't really have knowledge of the period and just start and create your own schedule this could screw things up I would imagine.

Ok gonna watch some WSOP coverage I will check back later.

Peace,

Any2
Click to expand...

Great question on the photoperiod.

Thankfully, there's an easy solution to your dilemma. When it's time to bloom, just put them in darkness till lights come on in the flower room. Just take the plants from the veg room late one night and put them in the flower room. You want bloom hormones to form....darkness does that. You do NOT want to stress the plant, changing photoperiod does that.

The dark period will merely get the flowering hormones running. I don't normally do this, but in your situation that's exactly what I'd do.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Great question on the photoperiod.

Thankfully, there's an easy solution to your dilemma. When it's time to bloom, just put them in darkness till lights come on in the flower room. Just take the plants from the veg room late one night and put them in the flower room. You want bloom hormones to form....darkness does that. You do NOT want to stress the plant, changing photoperiod does that.

The dark period will merely get the flowering hormones running. I don't normally do this, but in your situation that's exactly what I'd do.
Click to expand...
Man I am glad I came accross that today. I was going to throw them in the flower room and continue to veg them with a different photoperiod altogther. Plan was to keep them up "late" and extend the 18 to 26 hours with lights out at 8am then continue to veg them in the new period to acclimate under HPS. They are almost 2' now and I am gonna bag that idea and just do what you said and flip em to 12/12 with the extended dark period.

Thanks Doc!

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

I was wondering if I could re use and apply a 2nd run to the 3 bales I used for the outdoor grow that were exposed to high temps during the cook?

Thanks,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Any2cards said:
Doc,

I was wondering if I could re use and apply a 2nd run to the 3 bales I used for the outdoor grow that were exposed to high temps during the cook?

Thanks,

Any2
Click to expand...

No.....the problem isn't that the beneficials didn't live....pathogens take over. Chuck that soil. I'm very sorry, but you'll have problems if you use it.

The only reported problems with the kit are from improper cooking of soil. If it's too cold and all microbial action shuts down....it can be revived with warmth. That's what happens every Spring to most soil.

But if it gets too hot, it either goes sterile...or pathogens take over.

Look at it as a lesson:

You can try to use the soil and spend all the time, resources and money on a poor grow.....or you can save a ton of money and time and chock it up to education and do it right.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
No.....the problem isn't that the beneficials didn't live....pathogens take over. Chuck that soil. I'm very sorry, but you'll have problems if you use it.

The only reported problems with the kit are from improper cooking of soil. If it's too cold and all microbial action shuts down....it can be revived with warmth. That's what happens every Spring to most soil.

But if it gets too hot, it either goes sterile...or pathogens take over.

Look at it as a lesson:

You can try to use the soil and spend all the time, resources and money on a poor grow.....or you can save a ton of money and time and chock it up to education and do it right.
Click to expand...

Nothing is worse than, playing nurse in a grow...
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
No.....the problem isn't that the beneficials didn't live....pathogens take over. Chuck that soil. I'm very sorry, but you'll have problems if you use it.

The only reported problems with the kit are from improper cooking of soil. If it's too cold and all microbial action shuts down....it can be revived with warmth. That's what happens every Spring to most soil.

But if it gets too hot, it either goes sterile...or pathogens take over.

Look at it as a lesson:

You can try to use the soil and spend all the time, resources and money on a poor grow.....or you can save a ton of money and time and chock it up to education and do it right.
Click to expand...
Ok Doc sounds good.....man I have a shit ton of soil lol. Between the 3 bales and 11 bags of FFOF. Oh well lesson learned. Gonna mix all that crap up and throw it in the garden for next year or whatever lol.

Thanks,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Curso said:
Man Doc those nothing short of awesome. I can only hope my plants end up producing like your's do.
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haha.....I was thinking, "man...I hope my plants end up looking as good as Curso's....." :Namaste:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
haha.....I was thinking, "man...I hope my plants end up looking as good as Curso's....." :Namaste:
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I played with stress yesterday a little bit more. I defoliated one of my plants really hard, hard enough that she should have been really pissed off at me this morning. Then I sprayed her pretty heavily with stress and waited. Today her hands are up like she's getting busted no stress about it at all. I love that stuff!!!!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Curso said:
I played with stress yesterday a little bit more. I defoliated one of my plants really hard, hard enough that she should have been really pissed off at me this morning. Then I sprayed her pretty heavily with stress and waited. Today her hands are up like she's getting busted no stress about it at all. I love that stuff!!!!
Click to expand...

It's pretty amazing. My clones grow a set of leaves while rooting twice as fast.

But be careful spraying too much Stress during bloom.....it's growth oriented.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

All your pictures look the same, but considering that your goal is to create standardized, repeatable, top-shelf medicine, I say that as the highest compliment I can offer.

Right now I have 3 ACE Purple Haze x Meao Thai (F3) regulars in this stuff, and they're in hog heaven. The ACE Congo that's in the corner is also loving life to the max, showing STRONG true-purpling (not just P def) on new leaves and tips of sprouts. The Congo is supposed to be: (squat congolese sativa) x (tall/racy congolese sativa x Purple Chitral Kush by Cannabiogen). My point in mentioning this is regarding your commentary on coloration/sativa dominance/bud quality when running purple or heavy indica strains. I'll keep you in the loop on how this lady expresses throughout flowering.

I'm still waiting on a verdict from the lone sprout of DJ's Azure Haze...first set of true leaves just unfurling now. All but that seedling are about 3 nodes high, growing under LED so they're a bit "squat." I'll let you know if I get the typical Ca/Mg deficiencies I usually see under my LED...that's the hallmark of this technology. I may try to snip a clone once I've culled the males and run that side by side in pure coir using my best tek along side your kit, just for the fun of having people take the pepsi challenge with the finished product; space dependent, kind of worried how these equatorial landrace varieties will fare in my 2x2x6' tent, lol. At least I'm good at canopy management :peace:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

lowandslow said:
All your pictures look the same, but considering that your goal is to create standardized, repeatable, top-shelf medicine, I say that as the highest compliment I can offer.

Right now I have 3 ACE Purple Haze x Meao Thai (F3) regulars in this stuff, and they're in hog heaven. The ACE Congo that's in the corner is also loving life to the max, showing STRONG true-purpling (not just P def) on new leaves and tips of sprouts. The Congo is supposed to be: (squat congolese sativa) x (tall/racy congolese sativa x Purple Chitral Kush by Cannabiogen). My point in mentioning this is regarding your commentary on coloration/sativa dominance/bud quality when running purple or heavy indica strains. I'll keep you in the loop on how this lady expresses throughout flowering.

I'm still waiting on a verdict from the lone sprout of DJ's Azure Haze...first set of true leaves just unfurling now. All but that seedling are about 3 nodes high, growing under LED so they're a bit "squat." I'll let you know if I get the typical Ca/Mg deficiencies I usually see under my LED...that's the hallmark of this technology. I may try to snip a clone once I've culled the males and run that side by side in pure coir using my best tek along side your kit, just for the fun of having people take the pepsi challenge with the finished product; space dependent, kind of worried how these equatorial landrace varieties will fare in my 2x2x6' tent, lol. At least I'm good at canopy management :peace:
Click to expand...

So far High Brix is winning with the LED Cal/Mag issue in my grow...the only thing going purple are a few leaf stems :high-five: otherwise everything is lime green and ridged :high-five:
 
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