Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Got my Kit! I will be mixing it up very soon. Feel like a kid at Christmas!! WIW :surf::thanks::rollit:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Great info as always Doc. I have some new learning to do about Cation Exchange Capacity!

I really think your tip on the burlap to make my dumb pots a little smarter saved the day for me. Things have been progressing far beyond my expectations. My soil is not shrinking away from the edges of my pots, and I am getting great root growth, even in flower right up to the top of the soil level.
:thanks:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Great info as always Doc. I have some new learning to do about Cation Exchange Capacity!

I really think your tip on the burlap to make my dumb pots a little smarter saved the day for me. Things have been progressing far beyond my expectations. My soil is not shrinking away from the edges of my pots, and I am getting great root growth, even in flower right up to the top of the soil level.
:thanks:

Glad to be of service!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Amazing as always! As I trim this outdoor stuff I got to thinking.....man I wouldn't trim anything off those buds if they looked like that! lol. The frost is just amazing and it covers most of the leaves!!! Nice work as always Doc.

Question on environment...I know this can vary from strains, outside etc. but what is your opinion on optimum range hi and lo for temps and RH?

#2) I have had the wild thai in 1 gal pots and they are getting over 2 ft. Getting them ready now for 7 gal smarts now and they are going to get a trim underneath as well(bikini wax lol) in which I will take some clones too. When do you like putting them in their final container?

Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Amazing as always! As I trim this outdoor stuff I got to thinking.....man I wouldn't trim anything off those buds if they looked like that! lol. The frost is just amazing and it covers most of the leaves!!! Nice work as always Doc.

Question on environment...I know this can vary from strains, outside etc. but what is your opinion on optimum range hi and lo for temps and RH?

#2) I have had the wild thai in 1 gal pots and they are getting over 2 ft. Getting them ready now for 7 gal smarts now and they are going to get a trim underneath as well(bikini wax lol) in which I will take some clones too. When do you like putting them in their final container?

Peace,

Any2

The optimal range for temps:

65 to 80 w/o Co2 enrichment.
65 to 84 with Co2.

Obviously, the low temps are for nightime.

rH....veg 60-70 Bloom 45-60.

As for putting them into the final containers...optimally, about a week before bloom to give the roots time to establish. But I often put them right into bloom the same day I take clones and transplant. It depends on the strain, really, but if you give them a week to establish roots you're doing the best practice.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Things were going great and gave them their first dose of energy Friday 1 cup in 1 gal pots. Gave them a dribble on Sat with a brix foliar in the am. Sunday they started a droopy look to them with downward clawing and folding reverse taco style. They dried out their pots a bit by Monday and gave them 4-6 oz of water and 1/2 strength Stress in the am and they perked up a bit that same night.

When I went to check on them tonight a lime green color they started to have became even more prononced in the new growth. Clawing and folding looked the same. All but one have this look. Still waiting on gear for controls. Temps 79/59 and RH 55/15 according to the max/mins on thermometer. I know temps and RH are low.

The lime green in more pronounced with flash hence the 2nd pic.
029172.JPG

025218.JPG


Thoughts?

Thanks,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Things were going great and gave them their first dose of energy Friday 1 cup in 1 gal pots. Gave them a dribble on Sat with a brix foliar in the am. Sunday they started a droopy look to them with downward clawing and folding reverse taco style. They dried out their pots a bit by Monday and gave them 4-6 oz of water and 1/2 strength Stress in the am and they perked up a bit that same night.

When I went to check on them tonight a lime green color they started to have became even more prononced in the new growth. Clawing and folding looked the same. All but one have this look. Still waiting on gear for controls. Temps 79/59 and RH 55/15 according to the max/mins on thermometer. I know temps and RH are low.

The lime green in more pronounced with flash hence the 2nd pic.
029172.JPG

025218.JPG


Thoughts?

Thanks,

Any2

What size pots are you in? Way too small for sure.

How did you mix up the energy? They look root bound, overfed and over watered.....but you'll be fine. That lime green means they're growing damn fast.....far too fast for those small little pots. I bloom my plants before they get that big.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Mixed it up per instructions. Normally I get the tea 2ml with water in a cup and let it sit for 10-15 min or so. The .5 oz goes into a bucket. Toss the tea in after a good stir. Gave them each 8oz on Fri then 4oz on Sat because they ate it up and pots were on the dry side and dry again on Mon.

Ok transplant time.

Peace,

Any2
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Mixed it up per instructions. Normally I get the tea 2ml with water in a cup and let it sit for 10-15 min or so. The .5 oz goes into a bucket. Toss the tea in after a good stir. Gave them each 8oz on Fri then 4oz on Sat because they ate it up and pots were on the dry side and dry again on Mon.

Ok transplant time.

Peace,

Any2

You'll be fine. Score the roots, you might consider topping....re-water with transplant water (cuz it's a transplant :;):
No problem.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Great questions!

I have time for some short, to-the-point answers and then I must go work.

1. That soil mix you posted will work!
2. I'd lose the Neem and Alfalfa in the mix. You might consider adding Alfalfa to one of the teas you'll brew a couple times, maybe once in veg and one more time in like week 4 or 5 of bloom...AFTER all the buds have set and are throwing out pistils.
3. Maybe do with half that amount of Azomite in the mix.

As for feeding, get some cold processed squid, or a high quality fish hydrolysate and feed that every 3rd watering or so......again, mix it into the tea you're brewing.....add half the amount you're supposed to feed per the bottle.

I also recommend not using molasses in the tea. You'll have success with that mix, for sure. Don't foliar feed with that.

Thanks for the information.

I will be brewing separate tea's, microbial and nutrient. So for my microbial teas I should do EWC and humus with the fish hydrolysate? Will this give the microbe army enough rations to continue fighting? And for nutrient teas, just alfalfa bubbled? maybe with fish hydrolysate also?

And of course, information always sparks more questions...:D

I will follow your advice on removing the alfalfa and neem to the mix, but for my sake of knowledge, can you let me know why you would recommend removing these two from the mix?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks for the information.

I will be brewing separate tea's, microbial and nutrient. So for my microbial teas I should do EWC and humus with the fish hydrolysate? Will this give the microbe army enough rations to continue fighting? And for nutrient teas, just alfalfa bubbled? maybe with fish hydrolysate also?

And of course, information always sparks more questions...:D

I will follow your advice on removing the alfalfa and neem to the mix, but for my sake of knowledge, can you let me know why you would recommend removing these two from the mix?

The reason I say to remove the Neem and Alfalfa is due to high potassium content in each....and duplication, etc. Alfalfa is good for Tricantrol....a vegetative growth stimulating hormone.

I would consider the fish the main source of food for the microbes....which in turn means food for the plant.

The fish is reproductive dominant as far as its effect on the plants, while alfalfa is growth oriented AND way too high in K.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

The reason I say to remove the Neem and Alfalfa is due to high potassium content in each....and duplication, etc. Alfalfa is good for Tricantrol....a vegetative growth stimulating hormone.

I would consider the fish the main source of food for the microbes....which in turn means food for the plant.

The fish is reproductive dominant as far as its effect on the plants, while alfalfa is growth oriented AND way too high in K.

Alrighty! I love finding these little tips, something a little different from the norm, but it has education in the backing! Thanks again!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Oh Doc...they look tasty don't they:) Which one's the OG? When i get the kit, i was thinking of getting away from the kush strains...and trying...some Mazar! I don't think it's "landrace" but it is 100% indica from D.P. I've had my eye on it for a while now, and would really like to see how it would do in the H.B. Any thoughts Doc? Later!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Oh Doc...they look tasty don't they:) Which one's the OG? When i get the kit, i was thinking of getting away from the kush strains...and trying...some Mazar! I don't think it's "landrace" but it is 100% indica from D.P. I've had my eye on it for a while now, and would really like to see how it would do in the H.B. Any thoughts Doc? Later!

I think you've got a great idea there. It is my observation---not anything close to a scientific fact---that landrace strains and those that deviate the least from the actual landrace strains do the best in the high brix soil.

This one is Tahoe OG
Picture_002222.jpg
Picture_013132.jpg
Picture_005207.jpg


As you can see, she's a hog on the magnesium and STILL wants a bit more despite the K-mag and Guano I added. And, as I supplement Epsom Salt for a couple waterings, I'll have to up the nitrogen as well....so my brix is going to drop AND I've got mite damage on the low brix OG's. I'll win that battle with a good hard soaking of the Bug/Pest spray.

The high brix plants are uneffected by mites.

The reason I'm saying this, is because this OG is going to turn out pretty good. The last round it looked nothing like OG, but like some tropical sativa. While interesting, it wasn't outstanding smoke anything close to what a really great OG is like. So I concluded that some "hydro" strains, especially of the Chem Dawg lineage are just adapted to produce something unique in that type of high salt environment.

I've grown OG successfully in super soil......so I just made the high brix soil into a "super soil" for this round and the OG like it much better....just need a little epsom salt.

However, I've yet to find a person who prefers a hydro OG over my high brix Lemon Paki. The latter packs all the OG traits and more, and it also features that "next level" high brix effect. Nevertheless.....OG is a classic strain.....the best of an era and I'll always want to have some handy, because it's just so special to smoke a great OG. Variety is the spice of life they say.


So, back to your original question, I think the Mazar would grow fantastic in high brix soil. My Paki/afghani strains are top producers and real pleasers in taste, smell and effect.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc what do you think about Ripper Seeds "Double Glock" it's supposed to be 100% Indica.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc...I can see your issues with the OG.The Tahoe is not a very nice example of OG.Youd been better off with Skywalker or Kosher i think.Too bad about messing up your H.B. mix for that one.When i was reading your post i thought you were messin with me a little by sayin you were adding all these "organic" amendments to your H.B.:( Gotta do it ...i guess.I've noticed Doc that you don't ever L.S.T. your plants,and just let them grow out .If i didn't they would just get too tall and lanky looking.When space is limited like mine...I always L.S.T. to help them bush out and fill out before i trigger them.When my plants are about two feet tall ,they are always around 30 in. across with nice thick branches, about 60 days from seed.Anyhow Doc the Mazar doesn't come fem. so it looks like i'l go with MK ULTRA next round.It's OG x G13 and from what i can find out about it , it's a keeper.Anyhow Doc...have you had time to put my kit together yet?Gotta run ,later Doc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc...I can see your issues with the OG.The Tahoe is not a very nice example of OG.Youd been better off with Skywalker or Kosher i think.Too bad about messing up your H.B. mix for that one.When i was reading your post i thought you were messin with me a little by sayin you were adding all these "organic" amendments to your H.B.:( Gotta do it ...i guess.I've noticed Doc that you don't ever L.S.T. your plants,and just let them grow out .If i didn't they would just get too tall and lanky looking.When space is limited like mine...I always L.S.T. to help them bush out and fill out before i trigger them.When my plants are about two feet tall ,they are always around 30 in. across with nice thick branches, about 60 days from seed.Anyhow Doc the Mazar doesn't come fem. so it looks like i'l go with MK ULTRA next round.It's OG x G13 and from what i can find out about it , it's a keeper.Anyhow Doc...have you had time to put my kit together yet?Gotta run ,later Doc.

I don't LST.....but I do supercrop...all the time.

As for your kit, I've got to put it together, find time to stand in line at the post office and learn how much the shipping is.....then get back to you. It's the standing in line part that is so tough for me time-wise.....but I'll get to it as promised in a couple days or so.
 
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