Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

BrixKlinger said:
Hey Doc, I've still got a sample of OG Drench laying around, when is it best used? (I'm running 3 strains right now, thinking I will use it on the more unnatural one).

I'm excited to use the new micronute foilar soon, just flipped this week finally.
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Sub the OG drench for GE a couple times midbloom. That seems to be the best practice now.
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
I have kept moms. They do fine with small weekly feedings all the way until they are just root bound and need an up pot or root prune and repot. I usually just give them a bit of what ever I'm feeding the flowering plants that week except for CD time obviously:passitleft:
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When I find that one strain that makes me say "THIS is who I am" I want to be able to preserve the genetic. That most likely means regular, photoperiod seeds I make/breed myself, but I can also see certain advantages in keeping a mom...it's just a bit more work.

Doc Bud said:
I'm currently experimenting with 2 new foliar sprays:

The first strongly stimulates vegetative growth. I'm using it on new clones. It might-----repeat MIGHT-----be useful for keeping plants in the pre-preflower veg mode, IE no alternating nodes, etc. We shall see.

If it works, it might make keeping mother plants a bit easier. It will also work with plants undergoing photoperiod stress in the veg cycle.

The other new spray is designed to deliver micronutes, especially manganese and magnesium. We'll see how it goes too! I'm using the second spray on everything currently in the bloom room. So far, so good.
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Awesome. I'm WAY interested in these. I'm still getting my high brix legs under me, but having just finished my second round I seem to "get" the vibe of the whole kit with the exception of the Brix foliar. I either make it too strong, spray it too often, spray too much and not giving the plant a shake after, or something. I've learned from each instance though and maybe I'll get it right at some point, lol.

I've also found my plants all seem to really dig an occasional strong dose of Epsom's too so getting another source would be killer.

:cool:
 
Graytail said:
I've become pretty fond of topping around the 10th node level. By then, the plant is over a foot tall and the lower branches are mature enough to easily train into a canopy if you want. And at that growth phase, they hardly even hiccup when they get topped, jus' keep growing vigorously.

:thumb:
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I just followed his lead here with my Carnival and was amazed at how effortlessly the plant structured itself into a level canopy. It happened within three days. Amazing vigorous growth. It's a formula you can be sure I'll replicate.
 
Governmentchz said:
When I find that one strain that makes me say "THIS is who I am" I want to be able to preserve the genetic. That most likely means regular, photoperiod seeds I make/breed myself, but I can also see certain advantages in keeping a mom...it's just a bit more work.




Awesome. I'm WAY interested in these. I'm still getting my high brix legs under me, but having just finished my second round I seem to "get" the vibe of the whole kit with the exception of the Brix foliar. I either make it too strong, spray it too often, spray too much and not giving the plant a shake after, or something. I've learned from each instance though and maybe I'll get it right at some point, lol.

I've also found my plants all seem to really dig an occasional strong dose of Epsom's too so getting another source would be killer.

:cool:
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Yep. And it's better to get it from a foliar spray than in the soil too. This way the soil can stay "in the zone" while the plant can get a boost on a couple things. Both of those elements are difficult in container grows. Outdoors there is almost never a problem.
 
looks like my sour kosher and my durban poison might be seeding themselves. i have no clue why, they are the best looking of the bunch. :( my temps have been great, day and night. i can't spot any nanners but they had what appeared to be a seed pod or two on a couple nugs and upon further investigation it looked like they were really immature seeds starting to grow.
 
TheBoogyman said:
looks like my sour kosher and my durban poison might be seeding themselves. i have no clue why, they are the best looking of the bunch. :( my temps have been great, day and night. i can't spot any nanners but they had what appeared to be a seed pod or two on a couple nugs and upon further investigation it looked like they were really immature seeds starting to grow.
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Could just be some of those hollow whities, but (in case you haven't) it sounds like time to get out the reading specs and bright natural light and a stool and give them a deliberate tip-to-toe examination. I use a chopstick.
 
Governmentchz said:
Could just be some of those hollow whities, but (in case you haven't) it sounds like time to get out the reading specs and bright natural light and a stool and give them a deliberate tip-to-toe examination. I use a chopstick.
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TheBoogyman said:
looks like my sour kosher and my durban poison might be seeding themselves. i have no clue why, they are the best looking of the bunch. :( my temps have been great, day and night. i can't spot any nanners but they had what appeared to be a seed pod or two on a couple nugs and upon further investigation it looked like they were really immature seeds starting to grow.
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I get false seeds on Sativa's all the time. No big deal. When they dry they won't look like seeds, cuz they aren't. No hay problema mi amigo.
 
Just to get this information out there...

In "Kit" soil I know earthworm castings are optional.

1. For the first run:
If someone where to add earthworm castings, prior to letting the soil cook for a month, how many pounds would be recommended per bale of ProMixHP?

2. How many pounds of earthworm castings for each additional run?


"Thread Search results using "earthworm castings"

Thread Search results using "Worm Castings"

The updated Kit instructions simply lists "20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)" with no mention of how much to add for the initial soil cooking process or for additional runs.
 
I believe the 20-40 pounds is for the initial cooking:

Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.

Place the above dry mix into barrels and water with 3-5 gallons of water. Stir it, mix it, turn it over....and let it sit covered for one month. Temps must be no lower than 62 degrees and no higher than 85 degrees. Lower temps can take another week to "cook" while higher temps might be ready sooner. 1 month is usually spot on.

Once the soil has cooked, it's now time to plant!
 
Governmentchz said:
Could just be some of those hollow whities, but (in case you haven't) it sounds like time to get out the reading specs and bright natural light and a stool and give them a deliberate tip-to-toe examination. I use a chopstick.
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ehh, I don't know. I was able to pop this "seed" out of the calyx, it was solid green and squished under my finger easily with some liquid or whatever inside.
 
GoldenEagle said:
Just to get this information out there...

In "Kit" soil I know earthworm castings are optional.

1. For the first run:
If someone where to add earthworm castings, prior to letting the soil cook for a month, how many pounds would be recommended per bale of ProMixHP?

2. How many pounds of earthworm castings for each additional run?


"Thread Search results using "earthworm castings"

Thread Search results using "Worm Castings"

The updated Kit instructions simply lists "20-40 pounds of organic worm castings that show an NPK of zero K. (1-1-0)" with no mention of how much to add for the initial soil cooking process or for additional runs.
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The kit instructions clearly state:

So, how does all this work together?

Upon acquiring the Promix HP myco, the worm castings and enough plastic barrels to contain 60 gallons of soil:

Carefully and thoroughly mix the following:

Amendment
Promix
Worm castings.
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So, if you have between 20 and 40 pounds of EWC, add them to the Promix, along with the amendment. There is no exact number. There's a range.
 
TheBoogyman said:
ehh, I don't know. I was able to pop this "seed" out of the calyx, it was solid green and squished under my finger easily with some liquid or whatever inside.
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I'm pretty sure those aren't seeds. Key: "squished easily"
 
Doc Bud said:
The kit instructions clearly state:



So, if you have between 20 and 40 pounds of EWC, add them to the Promix, along with the amendment. There is no exact number. There's a range.
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Just for the sake of information...because of the differences in personality types and communication styles, there are some humans who want specific details. I personally was asking the question for the sake of clarification so that everyone could understand even the minor details and realize there is not always going to be absolutes with gardening.
 
GoldenEagle said:
Just for the sake of information...because of the differences in personality types and communication styles, there are some humans who want specific details. I personally was asking the question for the sake of clarification so that everyone could understand even the minor details and realize there is not always going to be absolutes with gardening.
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I know! I get it.
 
here's where we're at today:

Colombian, ready to harvest tomorrow

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Grape Ape and Colombian under the Advanced LED's.

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TheBoogyman said:
well i'm only 5 weeks into flowering so i figured they were just immature.
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Is everything in your room showing seeds, or just that particular plant?

Have you had any pollen floating about?

Again, I get these false seeds all the time. No big deal mon.
 
seems to possibly be happening on 3/5 plants, but the 3 are all supposed to be sativa dominant. Either way, no big deal as long as the seeding isn't too bad. I could use a few beans :)
 
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