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Ooooh very nice! Just measured 14 on the champagne and 12 on grape ape!
champagne? where you get that?
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Ooooh very nice! Just measured 14 on the champagne and 12 on grape ape!
Same guy who gave me the grape ape
1 day after 2nd cat drench. Which strain this was questionable before but not anymore. This isn't Jack Herer for sure. This smell is hashplant all the way. Is came sudden and it came strong after the second drench. Thanks again doc. I am amazed and can't wait to sample
I Have a Super Lemon Haze in flower that has edges up like that but not as much. Can that also be from heat?
I Have a Super Lemon Haze in flower that has edges up like that but not as much. Can that also be from heat?
When I foliar spray, the water beads up and doesn't coat the entire leaf. Does anybody use a surfactant to break the water tension? If so, what is a good and inexpensive brand or type?
Second question: Is there any problem with using tap water for drenches and foliar sprays? It is tasty mountain water with a pH of about 6.8 and 50-200ppm of minerals mainly calcium with trace amounts of other minerals. I fill a jug and let it sit out for a couple of days to evaporate any chlorine. Thus far, I have not encountered any problems, but I just want to be sure it won't negatively effect my brix.
Thanks Doc! I have another question for you, kind of related to my last problem with plants drooping. The more I thought of it I realized my plants were acting a little bit like they were root bound. I took a smaller plant out of its container to check the roots. These pictures are of a clone I planted 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if everything looks normal to you?
When I foliar spray, the water beads up and doesn't coat the entire leaf. Does anybody use a surfactant to break the water tension? If so, what is a good and inexpensive brand or type?
Second question: Is there any problem with using tap water for drenches and foliar sprays? It is tasty mountain water with a pH of about 6.8 and 50-200ppm of minerals mainly calcium with trace amounts of other minerals. I fill a jug and let it sit out for a couple of days to evaporate any chlorine. Thus far, I have not encountered any problems, but I just want to be sure it won't negatively effect my brix.
This is a great teaching post. Please look at your roots and notice several things:
1. The roots are mainly bunched up in the middle portion of the container with very few roots at the bottom.
2. The roots are large and white, not fine root hairs.
3. Above ground growth is large and healthy, but not "snappy" and turgid.
This is a perfect example of over watering in veg! You need to score those roots, put 'em back in the same containers after watering, and then let them go bone dry. Soak them and let them dry out again, and again.
Then Transplant.
What will happen if you follow the watering schedule I recommend is that you will have fine root hairs and the entire mass of soil will be colonized.
I use quillaja as a surfactant. I grabbed a bottle that is about 20% concentration quillaja saponaria. It lasts a long time. I use dextrose sometimes as well. Jon Frank himself recommends dextrose as a surfactant in some of his farm program foliar programs.
I think the most important factor is applying a fine light mist.
Once I checked them I had a feeling I have been over watering, especially after looking at your root balls in your gallery. I could swear I was letting them dry out enough but I guess I wasn't. I haven't been soaking like you say either, just mainly watering from the top. I can see now exactly what I was doing wrong by how the root formation is and the way I have been watering. I would sometimes let them sit in water but only for like 20 seconds and it obviously wouldn't get water to all the soil. I knew if I Dug deep I would get to the Root of the problem.