Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I almost mentioned to make sure they didn't need watering/drenching, but I figured it was too obvious. :cheesygrinsmiley:
Glad you got to the bottom of it.
 
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1 day after 2nd cat drench. Which strain this was questionable before but not anymore. This isn't Jack Herer for sure. This smell is hashplant all the way. Is came sudden and it came strong after the second drench. Thanks again doc. I am amazed and can't wait to sample :thanks:
 
I Have a Super Lemon Haze in flower that has edges up like that but not as much. Can that also be from heat?

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The leaves curl up like that because photosynthesis is so intense that the leaves just can't take it anymore, so they shy away from the light. In other words, the plant is blooming furiously and the limiting factors of soil and container size are starting to show themselves.

too much heat, too much light, coupled with a hyperactive soil biota and a plant that is being "pushed" by foliars will cause this.

Limiting factors begin to show up, namely Mag deficiency-like stuff.

It's a good sign in this context. epsoms will boost it and allow even more buds and resin.
 
I Have a Super Lemon Haze in flower that has edges up like that but not as much. Can that also be from heat?

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It can be heat caused. I'd check them when the temp is low. If they still curl, it is more likely the Mg.
Mine, being outside, curl to reduce exposure when it is hot. They flatten back out when it is cool. However, when I say hot, I mean HOT! It doesn't happen to mine until the mid-90's. Hopefully you have better control than that for your grow.
 
Thanks Doc! I have another question for you, kind of related to my last problem with plants drooping. The more I thought of it I realized my plants were acting a little bit like they were root bound. I took a smaller plant out of its container to check the roots. These pictures are of a clone I planted 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if everything looks normal to you?

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Major....They do stay like that all the time. My temps at top of canopy in flower are maybe 79 at most. I didn't think it was temp related but raised the light a tiny bit anyways just in case. Probably a bit of temps and mg.
 
The slippery stuff...

When I foliar spray, the water beads up and doesn't coat the entire leaf. Does anybody use a surfactant to break the water tension? If so, what is a good and inexpensive brand or type?

Second question: Is there any problem with using tap water for drenches and foliar sprays? It is tasty mountain water with a pH of about 6.8 and 50-200ppm of minerals mainly calcium with trace amounts of other minerals. I fill a jug and let it sit out for a couple of days to evaporate any chlorine. Thus far, I have not encountered any problems, but I just want to be sure it won't negatively effect my brix.
 
Re: The slippery stuff...

When I foliar spray, the water beads up and doesn't coat the entire leaf. Does anybody use a surfactant to break the water tension? If so, what is a good and inexpensive brand or type?

Second question: Is there any problem with using tap water for drenches and foliar sprays? It is tasty mountain water with a pH of about 6.8 and 50-200ppm of minerals mainly calcium with trace amounts of other minerals. I fill a jug and let it sit out for a couple of days to evaporate any chlorine. Thus far, I have not encountered any problems, but I just want to be sure it won't negatively effect my brix.

I use tap water only. Seems to work just fine for me.
Yucca and natural soap are the usual surfactants, but dunno what they might do with the HB stuff.
 
Thanks Doc! I have another question for you, kind of related to my last problem with plants drooping. The more I thought of it I realized my plants were acting a little bit like they were root bound. I took a smaller plant out of its container to check the roots. These pictures are of a clone I planted 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if everything looks normal to you?

20150804_140030.jpg

20150804_135955.jpg

20150804_140039.jpg

This is a great teaching post. Please look at your roots and notice several things:

1. The roots are mainly bunched up in the middle portion of the container with very few roots at the bottom.
2. The roots are large and white, not fine root hairs.
3. Above ground growth is large and healthy, but not "snappy" and turgid.

This is a perfect example of over watering in veg! You need to score those roots, put 'em back in the same containers after watering, and then let them go bone dry. Soak them and let them dry out again, and again.

Then Transplant.

What will happen if you follow the watering schedule I recommend is that you will have fine root hairs and the entire mass of soil will be colonized.
 
Re: The slippery stuff...

When I foliar spray, the water beads up and doesn't coat the entire leaf. Does anybody use a surfactant to break the water tension? If so, what is a good and inexpensive brand or type?

Second question: Is there any problem with using tap water for drenches and foliar sprays? It is tasty mountain water with a pH of about 6.8 and 50-200ppm of minerals mainly calcium with trace amounts of other minerals. I fill a jug and let it sit out for a couple of days to evaporate any chlorine. Thus far, I have not encountered any problems, but I just want to be sure it won't negatively effect my brix.

Your water situation sounds ideal. I'm very jealous.

Please don't use a surfactant in the foliar sprays. They are painstakingly designed to be effective exactly as they are.
 
This is a great teaching post. Please look at your roots and notice several things:

1. The roots are mainly bunched up in the middle portion of the container with very few roots at the bottom.
2. The roots are large and white, not fine root hairs.
3. Above ground growth is large and healthy, but not "snappy" and turgid.

This is a perfect example of over watering in veg! You need to score those roots, put 'em back in the same containers after watering, and then let them go bone dry. Soak them and let them dry out again, and again.

Then Transplant.

What will happen if you follow the watering schedule I recommend is that you will have fine root hairs and the entire mass of soil will be colonized.

Once I checked them I had a feeling I have been over watering, especially after looking at your root balls in your gallery. I could swear I was letting them dry out enough but I guess I wasn't. I haven't been soaking like you say either, just mainly watering from the top. I can see now exactly what I was doing wrong by how the root formation is and the way I have been watering. I would sometimes let them sit in water but only for like 20 seconds and it obviously wouldn't get water to all the soil. I knew if I Dug deep I would get to the Root of the problem.
 
I use quillaja as a surfactant. I grabbed a bottle that is about 20% concentration quillaja saponaria. It lasts a long time. I use dextrose sometimes as well. Jon Frank himself recommends dextrose as a surfactant in some of his farm program foliar programs.

I think the most important factor is applying a fine light mist.

Jon Frank designed my sprays. They have dextrose in them, along with a lot of other good stuff.
 
Once I checked them I had a feeling I have been over watering, especially after looking at your root balls in your gallery. I could swear I was letting them dry out enough but I guess I wasn't. I haven't been soaking like you say either, just mainly watering from the top. I can see now exactly what I was doing wrong by how the root formation is and the way I have been watering. I would sometimes let them sit in water but only for like 20 seconds and it obviously wouldn't get water to all the soil. I knew if I Dug deep I would get to the Root of the problem.

Give it a try. You'll be pleased you did. Don't be surprised if you get some yellow leaves lower down, as the roots aren't up to supporting that superstructure AND seeking new moisture at the same time. You might sacrifice some leaves but the new growth will be way healthier and the plants will be far better in every way.
 
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