Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Clones are sexually mature but it's not a mature plant as far as the root system and plant is concerned when the clones are new. I treat them like a seedling till they get some roots established in my beer cups. Once I transplant into veg containers they take off and I start to feed them like I would any veg plant.
 
I have a question about my CO2 cycle. When CO2 is injected and the exhaust is off my temps go from 74 to about 83 and the RH goes from 40% to about 70% both will go a bit higher if I just watered. This lasts for an hour and repeats every other hour for 6 injection per day. Is this enough to stress plants? What signs of stress would I see? Would I be better off not injecting the CO2 to keep temps constant? Thanks

It's hard to say whether you'd be better off with or without C02. The only way to find out is to try it! Lot's of temp/rh swings aren't the best for the plants. It's better to have a diurnal type thing where lights-on is perfect temps and so is lights off....steady in between.
 
I have a question about my CO2 cycle. When CO2 is injected and the exhaust is off my temps go from 74 to about 83 and the RH goes from 40% to about 70% both will go a bit higher if I just watered. This lasts for an hour and repeats every other hour for 6 injection per day. Is this enough to stress plants? What signs of stress would I see? Would I be better off not injecting the CO2 to keep temps constant? Thanks

CO2 is absorbed by the stoma, where the plant also breathes water out, hence the increase in RH. The increased Heat may be explained by the increased plant metabolism or maybe some physical phenomena that involves RH and heat over a closed room.

As Doc suggests, I´d try to keep minimum variation between day and night, so you should still be able to manage the CO2 input with an adequate air flow/exhaust.
:thumb:

Greetz
 
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, bro. Please expand.

Well, the plants they came off of had alternating nodes. The clones themselves had a mass amount of roots, so much so that they needed to be trimmed before being put into soil. What I'm asking i guess is, do I treat it as a mature plant or treat it as I would say a juvenile seedling?
 
Yo hablo Espanol! Rojo/Roja male/female versions of red. It's the Punt(a)(o) part that has me stumped. I've always called it Punta Roja until everyone here recently started saying "Punto Rojo."

no hablo, I never studied and flunked Spanish. I was a bad student and thought I would never need it.

Boy was I mistaken. Especially since I ended up in El Paso for a few years. It would have come in handy.

The Mexicans called me "el raton" because I would look through a ton of bricks to pick out the ones I wanted.
For some reason, they all liked me and gave me carte blanche

From bricks to brix, "what a loooong strange trip its been" :theband:
 
hey Doc at what height do you usually flip into flower?

I veg toll I have at least 8 nodes, up to 12 on some strains. On some I top and prune and often bloom the same day. It's not really based on height, but on plant shape.

On others, I might top at the second true node and then wait till there are 5 or 6 nodes at least before I prune and bloom. These are examples of this technique:

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Have you ever considered doing videos Doc? Get some Doctor-ed outfit,, couple hot RNs and lay your Doctorism on live video...
 
I can't get over how nice the stems are on HB plants.

Non HB plants often have potassium substituting for calcium in the cell walls. When you get it right, and there's enough calcium and potassium is kept to 1/18th of calcium and the soil biology is hyper-active and the plant is communicating with the roots.....all that stuff I constantly talk about......

That's what causes the lovely, bright, strong stems!

Anyone can do this....just copy me.
 
Hey Doc,
Roots! description says it is supposed to work with mycos, thats why it has soil bacteria and phosphate/mineral powder.
Does the Roots! have VA mycos added? I was wondering because you all use HP Promix to build the soil, which does have, in contrast to me and maybe other growers who mix the kit from peat and limestone plus perlite.

If it doesn´t maybe I could add some and see the results, although I´m reluctant to add anything thats outside the kit.
I appreciate
Have a nice mornin :thumb:
 
I am going to plant some seeds when my soil is ready in about 5 days and have some questions:

How soon after the seed has sprouted should I start using growth energy and transplant?
Should I use straight water in between feedings?
Do I spray with de-stress at least once a week? or only when the plants look like they need it?
 
Hey Doc,
Roots! description says it is supposed to work with mycos, thats why it has soil bacteria and phosphate/mineral powder.
Does the Roots! have VA mycos added? I was wondering because you all use HP Promix to build the soil, which does have, in contrast to me and maybe other growers who mix the kit from peat and limestone plus perlite.

If it doesn´t maybe I could add some and see the results, although I´m reluctant to add anything thats outside the kit.
I appreciate
Have a nice mornin :thumb:

It's all VAM in Roots! No Trichoderma. The amendment is also loaded with it, as is the Re-charge.
 
I am going to plant some seeds when my soil is ready in about 5 days and have some questions:

How soon after the seed has sprouted should I start using growth energy and transplant?
Should I use straight water in between feedings?
Do I spray with de-stress at least once a week? or only when the plants look like they need it?

Wait till there are 5 sets of "true" leaves before using any foliar spray.
Straight water with 1/4 strength Transplant until 5 sets of leaves.....then you can drench.
Water inbetween feedings.

Good questions.
 
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