Absolutely, but mine is LOS. Is this even an option with HB?
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
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Absolutely, but mine is LOS. Is this even an option with HB?
Absolutely, but mine is LOS. Is this even an option with HB? I hadn't considered this. If it's living soil it should support worms, right?
Thanks so much Sue,but I don't know how to do that ,(just an old guy eh!) Can you do it for us? Thanks eh!....Duggs.
Dutty Panty
New Member
Our garden has more earthworms than I've ever seen. When we were tilling it was nuts
Thanks so much Sue,but I don't know how to do that ,(just an old guy eh!) Can you do it for us? Thanks eh!....Duggs.
Done Duggs. Thanks again.
I have not ordered my worms yet, vacation coming and I don't want to kill them. But, today after I get home I'm looking for a few to stick in the pots I'm packing tonight. A lot of snow on the ground so they might not be in the usual spots, but I'm looking
sheepleschism
New Member
Subbed - Learn Mode Engaged 
Let me ask again:
- Could you use a SWICK with HB?
- Will HB soil support a worm population?
- Could you use a SWICK with HB?
- Will HB soil support a worm population?
As far as a swick with high brix, I liken the drenches to your top feedings, such as a sst. Don't water with too much of it to runoff into the swick.
Wet/dry cycles in veg is to encourage quicker and more root growth, if it's mandatory for docs kit I couldn't answer why. I'm sure he will answer you, just wanted to throw out an opinion because I've been pondering the same thing the last few days. I've known others that do this as well, of course only with chemical nutes. I get looked at like I'm a retard or with disappointment when I've asked that to the organic gardeners I know lol. It obviously works, and I'm doing it myself with the Brix plants.
Wet/dry cycles in veg is to encourage quicker and more root growth, if it's mandatory for docs kit I couldn't answer why. I'm sure he will answer you, just wanted to throw out an opinion because I've been pondering the same thing the last few days. I've known others that do this as well, of course only with chemical nutes. I get looked at like I'm a retard or with disappointment when I've asked that to the organic gardeners I know lol. It obviously works, and I'm doing it myself with the Brix plants.
I'm of the opinion that LOS grows vigorous root systems and the SWICK enhances that process by keeping the soil evenly hydrated. The success of my first grow was fundamentally due to the life in this soil and it's ability to effectively supply and shuttle nutrients on demand. That depends on consistent availability of water. No drying out times. So the wet/dry cycles practiced by HB growers makes me a little nervous. What effect would those dry cycles have on the soil food web?
If it's necessary with HB to have dry cycles it would simply require management of the SWICKS to allow for that I suppose.
The other question was about the viability of a worm population. No one out there have worms in HB soil?
If it's necessary with HB to have dry cycles it would simply require management of the SWICKS to allow for that I suppose.
The other question was about the viability of a worm population. No one out there have worms in HB soil?
sheepleschism
New Member
Took some pics.
C99 is coming down a week from today. It's really frosting up in a pleasing manner. 2 weeks past the breeder's "due date" and not a cloudy triche to be found. Because c99 is such a frankenstrain, confusing Sativa effects with Indica growth structure.....I think the High Brix program has brought out the Sativa traits to an extreme.
That is SICK!! Friggin' SICK!!
sheepleschism
New Member
That was from page 45. I'm diving back in...this is like a masters course. Unbelieveable. They're not even buds - they're GRENADES!!
haha
haha
420Brother
Well-Known Member
i'd smoke that cinderella until my brain melts 
doc bud right? can't go wrong
doc bud right? can't go wrong
- Thread starter
- #6,154
I was away from the computer most of the day and this got buried.
I see no problem with a SWICK system at all. The reason we do wet/dry in veg is because it builds roots and discourages vertical growth and foliage. When that is transplanted and the roots are vertically scored, we get the happy situation of short, stocky, strong plants with massive, healthy root systems.
Since you're not tranpslanting, it makes no real sense to go dry, but I'd definitely encourage some variation in soil moisture now and then.
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- #6,155
I've heard this worry over dry soil a few times now, so I should probably address it. Hmmm....how to go about this. When you buy myco the best stuff is dry...in powder form. Promix and other soils can be stored in the bag for up to a year and still have robust and healthy myco cultures once wetted.
On top of that, we add beneficials with every drench. So the soil food web is all-time healthy, barring other factors. That's the absolute, number one focus of HB growing: a hyperactive microbial culture.
Minerals are what allow the microbes to create the magic.
Doc, does the micro life go dormant and stay alive during the dry phase, does it die off and gets replenished with tea, or is it something else?
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- #6,157
It doesn't even grow dormant, as the plant is feeding it via root exudates. We're not trying to kill the soil, we're merely exercising the roots and signaling the plant to focus its energy on roots and thick strong stems full of moisture, with less foliage.
Hydo is the exact opposite! A small root mass imbibes massive amounts of nutrition and feeds a huge plant, while in High Brix we'd prefer a massive root ball feeding a modestly sized plant....or better yet a gigantic rootball feeding a gigantic plant.
But indoors we often like to keep them short.
Thanks doc, just to be clear, I wasn't suggesting you are killing the soil life just to replenish it. I know you like to have an active micro life, was just curious if they are "changing speeds" or are more/less active during certain periods. I know I'm a pain in the ass, and I appreciate the patience.
- Thread starter
- #6,159
They're good questions, so I take the time to answer them. Keep in mind that the pots aren't dry for more than a few hours or less. Nothing wilts if done properly, although I do recommend beginners to go all the way to slight wilt just to get the hang of the timing so they avoid it in the future.
Even so, moisture from the plant is feeding the soil when it's dry. They're happily busy cracking tiny rocks down there, wet or dry.
Now, if you really want to stress out the biota, just give them a ton of organic material, or worse yet, sugar!
When adding leaves into multiple run soils, how much is too much? I agree on the sugar part, get them processing what we want them to, active life should be abundant already, no need to feed them with sugars. Am I correct on my thinking?