Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, what does high potassium, K, (seawater) do to the plant when given mid to late bloom? Thank you
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A massive overdose will start a cascading effect with other base cations, resulting in K being used in the cell architecture, rather than Ca. All kinds of other effects (negative) result from that.

On the otherhand, if your temps are high, rH is low and you're growing a "salty" strain, a reasonable dose of K----like in the OG Drench----- is good for the plants.
 
Interesting info Doc. thanks for that!
 
Dutty Panty said:
Hey Curso already answered this but I lost the link. I want to order 100 lbs of ewc any suggestions
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None that you couldn't have come up with. I'd go through a local nursery.
 
Dutty Panty said:
I only have wiggle worm. Thought there is a top shelf worm poop option maybe I could order.
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Hey Dutty....those wiggle worm castings are real good eh....have very little K in them ,but wow, I pay a lot for mine up here in Canada!15lbs are 30 + dollars,so to supplement a "Kit" costs at least 60 bones. A lot of $ for a little bit of worm poop eh!Cheers Dutty :high-five:
 
Wow dug. I can get it for 9$ for 15lbs if I drive 3 hours. That's how far hydro farm and sunlight supply are from my place. It's about 20$ per bag at local grow shop. I want the best just seems like this wiggle worm is fairly massed produced and thought there may be a better product
 
Dutty Panty said:
Wow dug. I can get it for 9$ for 15lbs if I drive 3 hours. That's how far hydro farm and sunlight supply are from my place. It's about 20$ per bag at local grow shop. I want the best just seems like this wiggle worm is fairly massed produced and thought there may be a better product
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Ya ,I know I pay too much Dutty.....I use it cuz back when I started to use Doc's gear he recommended them for the low levels of K.i've been using them ever since and they are available about 10 min. from my house at one of the local nursery's. It's OK though cuz we really don't need a lot at a time for our fairly small grows indoors but for you guys doing outside veggie gardens and the like I would look into something else too!I believe as Doc ,though ,that they are a real good product. Im not sure who elses ewc are as good with that low K or is as easy to find ,seems like.Dutty ,you should be able to find other stuff to do the job for you outside ,or what?Cheers....Duggs.
 
Doc Bud said:
I use wiggle worm....has very low K.
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Hey Doc....have you used anything else or do you just stick with WW cuz of the low K?
 
Have you considered building some production style worm bins, dutty? You control the inputs, the K you all are worried about could be very low in your own homemade final product. And farming worms will save you a considerable amount of money over time.

Just a friendly thought.
 
duggan said:
Hey Doc....have you used anything else or do you just stick with WW cuz of the low K?
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I've used Aurora, Vermicrop and another that escapes me. They all worked just fine, but WW seems easier to get and I have no major trouble with it.
 
COorganics said:
Have you considered building some production style worm bins, dutty? You control the inputs, the K you all are worried about could be very low in your own homemade final product. And farming worms will save you a considerable amount of money over time.

Just a friendly thought.
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Hey CO...great idea...I know that's what i'de do if I needed a lot of it on a regular basis.Cheers!
 
Doc Bud said:
I've used Aurora, Vermicrop and another that escapes me. They all worked just fine, but WW seems easier to get and I have no major trouble with it.
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Ya Doc....that's why I use it as well...no problem getting it local in my city!
 
Question: would it be possible to use a SWICK watering system with HB? If so, I'm assuming there would have to be dry stages? Would it be possible to do HB without the dry spells?
 
Doc , if you don't mind i'de like to share some more electrical info with our members. This would apply to anyone using LED lights with those separate power cords they all seem to come with.After pm'ing with VonD yesterday about his "blown up" socket in his Mars light I decided this info should be shared for safety and reliability issues. The weekest link in all our led lights are the cooling fans....after that it's the connection at the socket on the light. Please keep in mind that all the current these lights draw has to go thru those two little metal prongs or blades on the back(inside the light)of the power socket.When they make them at the factory a real live person has to crimp the Stake-on connectors onto the ends of the power wires before pushing or stabbing them onto those blades or prongs. If that person had a bad day or wasn't carefull enough to make a nice tight firm joint on those , a hot spot develops real fast....after a bit of time ,and people continuously plugging and un-plugging these will loosen it further.....now. guess what ....boom.....your light just blew-up!Ive seen this many times over the years with a lot of different electrical equipment. The main cause for failure is LOOSE joints.When and if you ever have to replace this socket and or power cord remember to use a proper crimping pliers to crimp those Stake-on connectors on the ends of the wire real tight. After you've made this repair it should be a little hard to push them on the blades,that;s good. If they slip on too easy that's trouble waiting to happen. Now ,with these very big and powerfull units coming out these days ....you guessed it ,even more important. If you have to move your lights around for some reason be carefull not to wiggle or mess with that socket end too much.....very important.As soon as this connection point becomes loose and worn a bit you will for sure have problems.
With Vond's light ,he was glad he was home and witnessed it happening, so he could pull the plug real fast.Do not ,I repeat DO NOT attach these wires to the back of the socket with just tape or MCgiver it....use the proper connectors. Taping may work to repair a speaker connection but not a power cord that has to transfer a lot of current.With VonD 's case ,the dealer was nice enough to send him the replacement parts but guess what....they didn't send him the Stake-on connectors he would for sure need to facilitate the repair....without those proper connectors you can't repair it unless you have the ability and means to solder them!Hope everyone sees this as I feel it's very important."Gang"...don't mess with those connection points once your lights are up and running...leave them alone! Cheers....Duggs.:circle-of-love:
 
duggan said:
Doc , if you don't mind i'de like to share some more electrical info with our members. This would apply to anyone using LED lights with those separate power cords they all seem to come with.After pm'ing with VonD yesterday about his "blown up" socket in his Mars light I decided this info should be shared for safety and reliability issues. The weekest link in all our led lights are the cooling fans....after that it's the connection at the socket on the light. Please keep in mind that all the current these lights draw has to go thru those two little metal prongs or blades on the back(inside the light)of the power socket.When they make them at the factory a real live person has to crimp the Stake-on connectors onto the ends of the power wires before pushing or stabbing them onto those blades or prongs. If that person had a bad day or wasn't carefull enough to make a nice tight firm joint on those , a hot spot develops real fast....after a bit of time ,and people continuously plugging and un-plugging these will loosen it further.....now. guess what ....boom.....your light just blew-up!Ive seen this many times over the years with a lot of different electrical equipment. The main cause for failure is LOOSE joints.When and if you ever have to replace this socket and or power cord remember to use a proper crimping pliers to crimp those Stake-on connectors on the ends of the wire real tight. After you've made this repair it should be a little hard to push them on the blades,that;s good. If they slip on too easy that's trouble waiting to happen. Now ,with these very big and powerfull units coming out these days ....you guessed it ,even more important. If you have to move your lights around for some reason be carefull not to wiggle or mess with that socket end too much.....very important.As soon as this connection point becomes loose and worn a bit you will for sure have problems.
With Vond's light ,he was glad he was home and witnessed it happening, so he could pull the plug real fast.Do not ,I repeat DO NOT attach these wires to the back of the socket with just tape or MCgiver it....use the proper connectors. Taping may work to repair a speaker connection but not a power cord that has to transfer a lot of current.With VonD 's case ,the dealer was nice enough to send him the replacement parts but guess what....they didn't send him the Stake-on connectors he would for sure need to facilitate the repair....without those proper connectors you can't repair it unless you have the ability and means to solder them!Hope everyone sees this as I feel it's very important."Gang"...don't mess with those connection points once your lights are up and running...leave them alone! Cheers....Duggs.:circle-of-love:
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Thank you Duggan, that info is much needed and appreciated.

I think I speak for everyone of 420magazine when I say.. THANK YOU. :thanks:
 
Duggs, can you post that info on my thread too? Since I'm getting ready to add an LED panel this would be the perfect time to do so. Thanks.
 
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