Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I just checked your journal out after seeing the announcement for the announcement....I'm waiting patiently!

Late flowering, I don't water too much, just try to keep it moist, so I water maybe 3/4 to a gallon at a time. However, my soil doesn't stay soggy at all. I can monsoon them if I need to and it still stays spongy with minimal compaction. Also, are you sure it's moisture in the form of soil retention that's killing the roots, or could it be ergs too high in the lower root zone due to a really hot soil?

What's in your mix?



Yup. That's what I recommend. It's in the "In the Lab Thread" early on. I am right in line with you on the amount of water.

Of course, the very best way to tell if they need water is by weight of the pot. I'm always lifting mine and I just know when they need water.



OK, now that I read this I understand what's going on! I had the same type of trouble with Supersoil.....it was too hot for the roots. They just licked at it and got the nutrition, but they couldn't grow in the lower half of the pot very well because of the extreme salt buildup from the supersoil.

I would venture a guess you've got too much of something in the soil that's hurting the roots, so they simply aren't drawing moisture from the lower part of the pot because there are no roots there! If you can pop one out and check I'll bet that's what is happening.



The wick thing might make a comeback someday Ziggy. I'm really wanting to go to indoor beds, but that would require some construction work to install some french doors that open out, so I can get the beds in and out. I might go for a bottom feed system with a wick instead.

Hey Docbud! Thank you so much for taking your time out to answer my question. I am not 100% certain that it is the moist soil that is killing off the roots but it seems to be that, or like you said, too high of EC for the roots to be there at all, so therefore aren't sucking up the water. I wish I never cancled that order on the soil EC probe and may have to re-order it because I think it would be the magnifying glass to the supersluth as far as showing me the evidence I need to go one way or the other. I will try popping a pot off in a few days when the soil is a little dryer and see what I have going on under the soil. (great idea)

In my mix... a lot of little things... It is mostly promix with about 20% worm castings, and about 20% mix of perlite/pumice with a few cups worth of the amendments (the 6-5-3)azomite, and other things like greensand, lava sand, crab and fish bone meal and kelp meal. For the most part each of those are about 1 cup per ingredient spread across 7x 5 gallon pots worth of the soil base. On past grows I added very little nutrients in my feedings, mostly compost teas and water, but this grow I wanted to see if maybe I wasn't feeding them enough, so I have been doing 1/2 doses of Earthjuice grow and bloom, along with some potassium silicate, cal/mag. I also took your advice of no sugars/molasses so I haven't added any to the soil throughout the grow, except for the very last feeding. I have been doing foilar sprays of 1/2 gallon of r/o water to :10ml of Amaze, 10ml of PGR, 20ml of Carboload (5 sugars for transport) and cold pressed seaweed. (ocassionally adding organic b and fulvic acid at about 10ml each). Also yucca extract is added to both the soil feedings and the foliar feedings. I also have been using TandJ tea, but only using about 1/4 off the biominerals they recommend, and about 1/2 the amount of tea activator.

The PPM's of all of these feedings are way below 500ppm.. I don't check the PH, but generally bubble for 2 days which brings it up to the 6.5 range.

The reason I am leaning towards too much water, or too frequently, or both, is because I have the el-cheepo soil moisture probe which actually seems pretty accurate, and usually the top 1/2 of the pots will be ready for a feeding and reading dry, but the bottom half of the pots always read moist...?? so I still think you may be right about their not being roots down below that layer to soak up the water?

Either way I am in the market for some airpots or fabric pots soon, but they wont be making an appearance until my next available grow. I also tomorrow will be going out to get some smalll 3" fans and putting them in the bottom of my grow area to maybe help dry out the soil a little faster? I am going to have to order that soil probe now...lol...


So if it was too much salt, then I guess a good old flush wouldn't be a bad thing to do... I will check the roots in a few days and then let you know what I find...

Again Doc! I thank you so much for being such a stand up guy, and always helping all of us out. I especially appreciate it since if it wasn't for you, I wouldn't even know what high brix is.. Thanks!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Docbud! Thank you so much for taking your time out to answer my question. I am not 100% certain that it is the moist soil that is killing off the roots but it seems to be that, or like you said, too high of EC for the roots to be there at all, so therefore aren't sucking up the water. I wish I never cancled that order on the soil EC probe and may have to re-order it because I think it would be the magnifying glass to the supersluth as far as showing me the evidence I need to go one way or the other. I will try popping a pot off in a few days when the soil is a little dryer and see what I have going on under the soil. (great idea)

In my mix... a lot of little things... It is mostly promix with about 20% worm castings, and about 20% mix of perlite/pumice with a few cups worth of the amendments (the 6-5-3)azomite, and other things like greensand, lava sand, crab and fish bone meal and kelp meal. For the most part each of those are about 1 cup per ingredient spread across 7x 5 gallon pots worth of the soil base. On past grows I added very little nutrients in my feedings, mostly compost teas and water, but this grow I wanted to see if maybe I wasn't feeding them enough, so I have been doing 1/2 doses of Earthjuice grow and bloom, along with some potassium silicate, cal/mag. I also took your advice of no sugars/molasses so I haven't added any to the soil throughout the grow, except for the very last feeding. I have been doing foilar sprays of 1/2 gallon of r/o water to :10ml of Amaze, 10ml of PGR, 20ml of Carboload (5 sugars for transport) and cold pressed seaweed. (ocassionally adding organic b and fulvic acid at about 10ml each). Also yucca extract is added to both the soil feedings and the foliar feedings. I also have been using TandJ tea, but only using about 1/4 off the biominerals they recommend, and about 1/2 the amount of tea activator.

The PPM's of all of these feedings are way below 500ppm.. I don't check the PH, but generally bubble for 2 days which brings it up to the 6.5 range.

The reason I am leaning towards too much water, or too frequently, or both, is because I have the el-cheepo soil moisture probe which actually seems pretty accurate, and usually the top 1/2 of the pots will be ready for a feeding and reading dry, but the bottom half of the pots always read moist...?? so I still think you may be right about their not being roots down below that layer to soak up the water?

Either way I am in the market for some airpots or fabric pots soon, but they wont be making an appearance until my next available grow. I also tomorrow will be going out to get some smalll 3" fans and putting them in the bottom of my grow area to maybe help dry out the soil a little faster? I am going to have to order that soil probe now...lol...


So if it was too much salt, then I guess a good old flush wouldn't be a bad thing to do... I will check the roots in a few days and then let you know what I find...

Again Doc! I thank you so much for being such a stand up guy, and always helping all of us out. I especially appreciate it since if it wasn't for you, I wouldn't even know what high brix is.. Thanks!

Please let me know what you discover when you pop the root ball. The roots should be all over the place and super fine, light hairs, not big white roots circling the pot.

FWIW, I use 1 cup amendment for a whole bale of Promix. That single cup has the rock powders, myko, organic material, etc.

Judging by what you posted above, your mix is 5-7 times "hotter" than mine. On top of that, if you're foliar feeding you'll get lots of salts building up with a mix like yours. I have to cut back on foliar feeding after 2 runs on my soil, per the lab.

So, based on what you're saying, I'm pretty sure you're going to find the roots haven't really taken hold in the bottom.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, I spent the last two weeks reading your High Brix threads, really great read and education. I really appreciate your hard work and time invested just to selflessly share with us techniques that would have never come to mind, (for me anyhow ). I've been a hydro guy for a few years and interested in High Brix growing. I would like to grow one or two plants at a time in the hydro room during hydro runs.This would get my feet wet while training myself without a complete tear down for starting.This means that a soil mix with your kit could possibly sit for up to a year. Would that be a problem? Next Q; how do I get a kit? I've tried the email deal at cannpharms.com, but alas, the all mighty computer stuff has beat the crap out of me again. Thanks so much. GR.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, I spent the last two weeks reading your High Brix threads, really great read and education. I really appreciate your hard work and time invested just to selflessly share with us techniques that would have never come to mind, (for me anyhow ). I've been a hydro guy for a few years and interested in High Brix growing. I would like to grow one or two plants at a time in the hydro room during hydro runs.This would get my feet wet while training myself without a complete tear down for starting.This means that a soil mix with your kit could possibly sit for up to a year. Would that be a problem? Next Q; how do I get a kit? I've tried the email deal at cannpharms.com, but alas, the all mighty computer stuff has beat the crap out of me again. Thanks so much. GR.

The soil will be fine for a year. Turn it over once every couple months and keep it slightly moist, like in a bag at the garden shop.

I'm not taking orders for 2 weeks. Please check your PM's!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc! you were right again! I ran some 30ppm R/O water through my soil, flooding it and checked the runoff ppm. On the plants that had the "lockout" leaves or showed the most stress, the runoff was over 2000ppm!!! yikes! The plants that showed the least stress or none were around 1200-1400ppm.... So yep...salt build up/too high soil EC...I flushed a bunch of r/o water though the soil so hopefully that helped correct it. I also gave them a foliar of some cold pressed seaweed, and amaze to help supplement the nutrients while the soil is in limbo repairing. Hopefully it helps...either way the buds look incredible, If I can fine tune the leaves health in mid late flowering I think I'll be set :)

Thank you again for your expert advice!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc! you were right again! I ran some 30ppm R/O water through my soil, flooding it and checked the runoff ppm. On the plants that had the "lockout" leaves or showed the most stress, the runoff was over 2000ppm!!! yikes! The plants that showed the least stress or none were around 1200-1400ppm.... So yep...salt build up/too high soil EC...I flushed a bunch of r/o water though the soil so hopefully that helped correct it. I also gave them a foliar of some cold pressed seaweed, and amaze to help supplement the nutrients while the soil is in limbo repairing. Hopefully it helps...either way the buds look incredible, If I can fine tune the leaves health in mid late flowering I think I'll be set :)

Thank you again for your expert advice!

Please stop all foliar feeding immediately!

That's a huge source of salt buildup as foliars are 60% more absorbed than root uptake....so the plant must flush itself out in the form of exudates. My soil used to get too much salt on run 4, and the lab advised limited foliar feeding after the second run.

I think if you cut all your amendments so you're using about 30% as much as you currently are you'd be in the ballpark.

Remember, the stuff we add to the soil isn't readily available to the plant. If the soil is too hot, the foliars won't help and the plant will struggle.

Make the soil much more mild, and between the foliars and what the roots/microbes can bring in, things get in balance. It's always a temptation to use more of things....but it doesn't always help.

Like I said a few posts up, using my kit, the actual amendment for an entire bale of Promix is 1 cup total. Compare that to how much you're using (and how much I used to use back in the 6-5-3 days) and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Less is more when things are set up right.

In your case, I'd follow the flush with a very light feeding of Calcium Nitrate and beneficials. The Calcium Nitrate will keep the soil energy up and give the plant 2 things it needs and it will help fix your EC.

Another technique that helps is how you feed. I've adopted a method for the light eaters like this:

Alternate feed and water. On feed days, first flush the pot with 2-3 gallons of water. (assuming 7 gallon pot). Let it sit after the flushing for maybe 20 minutes, then gently pour 3/4 gallon of feed-water as a chaser to the flush.

For water only day, just water slowly until it comes out the bottom for a minute or two....maybe 2 gallons total.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Less is usually better, thx for reminding about that. Balanced medium with cations and anions of nitrates, phosphates and calcium, iron and other oxided ready to be absorbed by roots is much better for stable, but vigorous growth. And also plant won't take more than it needs to use for cell building, and that depends on amount of light, humidity and your O2/CO2 exchange. We are often tempted to put more, but the truth is it's rarely necessary. I grow outdoor, so I do not have these problems, but some rules apply for growing cannabis anywhere.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, Graytail and I were chatting and I thought maybe I should let you chime in on the Tea question. I took your online and bottle instructions and came up with .5ml of Tea per gallon of water based upon the 2.5ml per 5gallons of water stated on the bottle and figured it was close enough to the 2.5ml per 6 plants from online instructions - does that sound reasonable to you or should I be using more?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc, Graytail and I were chatting and I thought maybe I should let you chime in on the Tea question. I took your online and bottle instructions and came up with .5ml of Tea per gallon of water based upon the 2.5ml per 5gallons of water stated on the bottle and figured it was close enough to the 2.5ml per 6 plants from online instructions - does that sound reasonable to you or should I be using more?

That would work just fine.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Good morning Doc,

mad props to you brutha, I'm just starting this journey with you and I see that you guys are already in by hundreds of pages so I gots some catching up to do. I just have one question before jumping back in to study. Can this be done hydroponically? Raising the brix levels? or is this strictly a soil thang? And if so where should I start? Right here on page 2? or should I jump to page ??? and read from there on?

TNA
Raziel
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Good morning Doc,

mad props to you brutha, I'm just starting this journey with you and I see that you guys are already in by hundreds of pages so I gots some catching up to do. I just have one question before jumping back in to study. Can this be done hydroponically? Raising the brix levels? or is this strictly a soil thang? And if so where should I start? Right here on page 2? or should I jump to page ??? and read from there on?

TNA
Raziel
You should read "in the lab with doc bud". Its all explained in there. And no, you cant do this style of growing hydroponically.
You might be able to get higher brix in hydro but not as high as you can in soil.
Docs on vacation right now so start reading and when hes back have a chat with him about kit growing. Hope that helps :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks thecanuck,,

So correct me if I'm wrong but, "in the lab with doc bud" is the prerequisite course? And again tell me if I'm wrong, (you's got to know cannabis has a way of giving you mind expanding/altering ways of looking at things :) ) is there not some type of growing system that combines the best of both worlds into one?

Thanks again,

Raziel
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thanks thecanuck,,

So correct me if I'm wrong but, "in the lab with doc bud" is the prerequisite course? And again tell me if I'm wrong, (you's got to know cannabis has a way of giving you mind expanding/altering ways of looking at things :) ) is there not some type of growing system that combines the best of both worlds into one?

Thanks again,

Raziel

Plants are designed to grow best with symbiotic microbes and fungi, which can only occur in soil. Our High Brix soil is carefully designed to optimize what I call the 3M's: Minerals, Microbes and Magic. If the minerals are present in the right amounts and ratio's, along with the microbes, magic happens.

Hydroponics feeds the plants directly via salts. Not only are microbes not very effective at colonizing the roots in hydro, in many cases active biology in the hydro tank is a problem.

In High Brix growing, the microbes feed the plants and the plants feed the microbes. Each eats minerals from the soil, which are unavailable to the plant without symbiotic microbes and fungi, while the plant via foliar sprays feeds the microbes in the form of root exudates.

When everything is in balance, the foliar sprays turbo-charge the growth process, sugars rise, mineral content and nutrient density increases and the result is weed unlike anything you've had before. It smells different, tastes different and feels different.

It's stronger and more kind and gentle all at the same time. Hard to explain, but if superb hydro is an electric blanket, High Brix is a thick, luxurious down comforter. Both keep you warm/get you high.

I'll warn you to stay away from this High Brix stuff because it will ruin you and make a horrible snob out of you when it comes to weed. Look what it's done for all of us? The high brix growers all have the best weed in town and I know many are like me. More often than not I don't even try samples people give to me if I know it wasn't grow at least organically and also washed at time of harvest.

I'll be back in town at the end of the month. Until then, read up, and I'll check in from time to time and answer what I can.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

:rofl: Well Doc to late I'm already a snob. I've tasted those fruits and veggies that just seem to explode in your mouth, I've had water that seemed to chill me all the way down too and it wasn't because it was so supper cold. So it just stands to reason that I can experience those same experiences with cannabis then why deny myself and those around me that I love too.

Have a great vacation, stay safe and I'll see you (metaphorically) when you get back.

Raz
 
Back
Top Bottom