Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Sky! You never know, someone may see your inquiry here and be able to help. For me, most of what you just said went way over my head. I prefer, as mentioned earlier, the simple grow system in the kit and understand that you prefer your way.

I'll be throwing some plants in dirt outside if I can find a good spot and will be looking for some advice on what to add to the soil so I don't have to go back and feed them often, just want to let them go and check on em a few times. If they don't live or someone snags them, I won't be too upset.

Thinking I would ask @Van Stank as he runs water only LOS but will take advice from anyone willing to give it.

:passitleft:
 
It then hit me that soil growers rely on time release nutrients that are fully dependent on microbes to process and release in ions to the roots whereas my synthetic nutes are available now. I think ultimately, my best path will be to invest in a sap PH tester and try to pursue equilibrium with this chart I found on another forum, but it will take a few more days of reading and Googlizing terms and phrases. I may even start a new thread, but was hoping one already exists and some of you knew what it was called.

Yep, that's the trouble with asking us about it. We rely on the soil biota.

But I did some searching and found that people are pursuing high Brix in hydro too, so it can be done without using nature. Start with finding a way to get more calcium uptake (and less potassium) into the plants. Can you use foliars with a hydro setup?
 
Yep, that's the trouble with asking us about it. We rely on the soil biota.

But I did some searching and found that people are pursuing high Brix in hydro too, so it can be done without using nature. Start with finding a way to get more calcium uptake (and less potassium) into the plants. Can you use foliars with a hydro setup?

Foliars can be used with any plant, I'm sure you know, but sadly my rooms are just less than 4x4 so when my plants grow wall to wall, there's no room left for my old ass to maneuver around in there. Perhaps I could use a long arm pressure sprayer to shoot from the undersides, I can't commit to catching each of the 3 separate rooms just before lights out and it would have to be done when convenient if that's doable.

I do already mix in (THIS) fulvic/humic/kelp blend into my reservoirs and compost tea brews, plus can also find aminos, B12, and Aloe Vera there, as well as many other things to add back the strengths of organics, but I believe you are right about finding a way to jack up the calcium and lowering the potassium, I do suspect the relationship in hydro needs to be much closer in ratio than they are in Doc's kit due to the fact that my nutes are available right now and do not need to be processed down by microbes. As is now, my N and Ca are 100 PPM and K is at 170. My leaves look very good for the most part and I know the truly ideal range to be very close to those numbers. Maybe lower the N to 95, Ca up to 110 and K leave alone, or something along those lines. Prior to considering brix, I was just making minor adjustments as the plants express their contentment with the feed I have been giving. I'm really close to the equilibrium I seek to see, but as previously stated, I think I need to learn to test the PH of leaf sap and find the perfect PH to have all of the ions balanced as desired, anions to cations.
 
In our soil setup, we use the foliars to stimulate root exudates, which in turn feed the biota that produce the nutrients we want. Of course, it feeds the plant directly, too, which is how we effect the exudates.

That's one of the things I've wondered about in hydro. It would seem to be a good way to feed the plant without contaminating the reservoir. But I don't commonly see it used in hydro. Maybe there's a formula for foliar feeding calcium? :hmmmm: Or to stimulate uptake from the reservoir?

No one has mentioned it yet, but another reason we increase calcium uptake is that it builds stronger tissue than potassium. The other main reason is that it gives the produce a sweeter flavor. Overall, it produces better, healthier (and terpier) produce.

So just increasing calcium uptake accomplishes the main goals.

:thumb:
 
So I led @Skybound here by mentioning that Doc has a friend that grows in Hydro that he mentioned hits 12 brix (or at least over 10 brix) pretty regularly. i think he had been hoping Doc could point him in that growers direction so that he could try and emulate their feed so that he could up his brix numbers.

OK,...i have just heard back from Doc. The amendment is not the same now as it was years ago. He went on to say that 20 oz. or 566 grams is the proper amount now to use for each 'kit', or bale. Cheers....Yeti....that clears things up eh....geesh,..i was sweatin there man....sakes....:passitleft:.

I am glad Doc got back to you bud! I kind of thought part of it may be that the amounts changed as things evolved. I am glad it got cleared up bud! :thumb:

Anyone using or have used swamp coolers, to raise humidity ??

Doc used tp use a swamp cooler in his room back in he day. I saw it in one of his older journals. He even suggested them to people quite a bit at one time.

Ok I’m looking for a unicorn here. Back in the 90s there was some amazing stuff that smelled and tasted like you were hit by a truckload of pine trees. Up in New England we always called it Christmas tree bud. I’ve searched all over google and there’s numerous articles and posts discussing this but no solid results. I know there’s many in this group that do testing and are into the more scientific side of this dealing with terpenes and all. I have virtually zero knowledge in that dept. From reading posts with testing reports I would suspect the terpene to be pinene. So I’m wondering if any brixers have been able to discover something like this since this method appears to bring out certain traits that other growing methods can’t. I am the same as many of you in the sense that I’m not strictly looking for the strongest produce. For me it’s the adventure of the experience. :nomo::reading420magazine::lot-o-toke::passitleft:

I see a lot of people already chimed in on this. I was going to suggest Hazeman's PTK (79xmas bud) or CSI's xmas bud. IceMud did a breeding of the Hazeman's and Potchimp is even running some now. Icemud mentioned that his smelt like a pine bush. Not quite christmas trees but definitely piney. I am waiting for him to run his Pine Tar Kush seeds he got from CSi because they actually have PTK seeds going on. I want to see if that is any more pine tree smelling than Hazeman's.
 
I see a lot of people already chimed in on this. I was going to suggest Hazeman's PTK (79xmas bud) or CSI's xmas bud. IceMud did a breeding of the Hazeman's and Potchimp is even running some now. Icemud mentioned that his smelt like a pine bush. Not quite christmas trees but definitely piney. I am waiting for him to run his Pine Tar Kush seeds he got from CSi because they actually have PTK seeds going on. I want to see if that is any more pine tree smelling than Hazeman's.
[/QUOTE]
The Xmas Bud is piney but not a Christmas tree piney if that makes sense.

I ordered the 79 Xmas bud from csi. When I get a little space I’ll pop some. Time will tell but I have high hopes. Thanks for your help! :passitleft:
Edit: that didn’t quote right :rofl:
 
Good morning gang! I have some good news regarding our Doc......he has informed me last night that he will be back very soon now.
Sky....welcome to 420 Mag. sir.
I believe many have already chimed in and talked a bit about Doc's gear and u still seem hell bent on improving your hydro set up.
Let me just say , as others that i have been growing since 1987 and have tried just about every grow method out there and i can tell you that this system with DBHBB is the best out there for many reasons.
All those numbers/charts/readings/meters and chemicals are not needed to enjoy growing and to produce a very smooth , very high brix produce.
Docs gear is simply the best.Cheers and good luck with things.....
 
Good morning gang! I have some good news regarding our Doc......he has informed me last night that he will be back very soon now.
Sky....welcome to 420 Mag. sir.
I believe many have already chimed in and talked a bit about Doc's gear and u still seem hell bent on improving your hydro set up.
Let me just say , as others that i have been growing since 1987 and have tried just about every grow method out there and i can tell you that this system with DBHBB is the best out there for many reasons.
All those numbers/charts/readings/meters and chemicals are not needed to enjoy growing and to produce a very smooth , very high brix produce.
Docs gear is simply the best.Cheers and good luck with things.....

Thanks for the warm welcome, but the way I do hydro is much different than pretty much everybody else as I very intentionally feed my plants specific PPM of each element, and I am very close to finding out what I believe will be perfect equilibrium in the feed. Even Doc's own studies have lead him to change what was already widely accepted as ideal, well I too aim to do things different. I respect that you all are firm believers in the high brix kit, I am just passing through I suppose in search of wisdom to be applied elsewhere.
 
Stick around Sky! There are other non brixxers that frequent this journal and when Doc returns, maybe he can help...?

:passitleft:

I hope so. This seems to be a fairly old topic, going back to at least 2012 on grasscity and ICMag. The consensus was the perfect equilibrium was when the leap sap was at 6.4ph. if the ph was higher, the plant was prone to pests, lower it would be prone to disease. My hope is that Doc tests his sap's PH and can offer some insight into that experience.
 
Good morning gang! I have some good news regarding our Doc......he has informed me last night that he will be back very soon now.
Sky....welcome to 420 Mag. sir.
I believe many have already chimed in and talked a bit about Doc's gear and u still seem hell bent on improving your hydro set up.
Let me just say , as others that i have been growing since 1987 and have tried just about every grow method out there and i can tell you that this system with DBHBB is the best out there for many reasons.
All those numbers/charts/readings/meters and chemicals are not needed to enjoy growing and to produce a very smooth , very high brix produce.
Docs gear is simply the best.Cheers and good luck with things.....
Hey, good news that Doc will be back soon! What a mess! ;)
 
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